Best 5 Volt 510 Pass Thru?
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Same here, no problems at all. Got mine from Cignot. $22. They also have titanium finish, and black automatic.
just tossing in my 2 cents. i love my pt from madvapes, and my first one i got from...drat, can't remember the vendor (madvapes was out of stock when i wanted to order my first one) both 5v models, make sure to use these with a wall adapter that puts out 5v and AT LEAST 1000mAh, 1500-2000 is better. why risk your computer, y'know?
speaking of pt s i order a nonbattery model, should be here in a day or two. but i was told it probably wont work with the wall adapter. is this the case or will i need to pick up a specific wall plug?
I don't see why it wouldn't work with an a/c to USB type adapter. You know, the kind for charging iPods and stuff from the wall when all you have is a USB cable.
Do take note if you want a True 5V experience from your PT you will need a 5v 2amp USB wall plug. Plugging into a Ipod charger or your trusty Laptop/PC usb outlets is only gonna supply you 1amp MAX and it will only produce 3.3-3.5 Volts. So what you would experience is just a consistant regular 510 battery vape. just my 2 cents 
Do take note if you want a True 5V experience from your PT you will need a 5v 2amp USB wall plug. Plugging into a Ipod charger or your trusty Laptop/PC usb outlets is only gonna supply you 1amp MAX and it will only produce 3.3-3.5 Volts. So what you would experience is just a consistant regular 510 battery vape. just my 2 cents
Didn't know that, thanks for that info. It's funny because since I started this thread I've been doing research and have actually decided I might just get the variable voltage little sister mod to test out higher voltages. I figure it's only 50 or so bucks more than a P/T and if I do end up liking higher voltage, I'd be set with a good device that can do it.
I believe my logic is correct on this, but I'm open to comments. A 5V device running with a 2.5 ohm atty draws 5/2.5 = 2 Amps of current. So the port that it is plugged into must be rated to 2 Amps. With my Boge cartos, which are around 3.5 ohms, it would need to be rated to 1.43 Amps. If a port is not rated to the draw of the device, it will either fry...or maybe it limits the voltage somehow. Not sure on this point, but perhaps Madshock can speak further to this. Is there sometimes an internal voltage regulator?
Another issue is the cable. I have fried several USB cables with my Bartleby, which is a 3.7V fast charging PT, essentially. Went through a bunch of cables. Some PTs that USB recharge an internal batt can draw a lot of current. The Hello Sit and Go 510 PTs, which are very nice devices, and are true 3.7V PTs, draw only 300 mA, which was a big plus for me, and these should be computer-safe.
Don't use a computer port with a 5V straight-wire PT...there have been several here that reported mother board frying!
Another issue is the cable. I have fried several USB cables with my Bartleby, which is a 3.7V fast charging PT, essentially. Went through a bunch of cables. Some PTs that USB recharge an internal batt can draw a lot of current. The Hello Sit and Go 510 PTs, which are very nice devices, and are true 3.7V PTs, draw only 300 mA, which was a big plus for me, and these should be computer-safe.
Don't use a computer port with a 5V straight-wire PT...there have been several here that reported mother board frying!
I believe my logic is correct on this, but I'm open to comments. A 5V device running with a 2.5 ohm atty draws 5/2.5 = 2 Amps of current. So the port that it is plugged into must be rated to 2 Amps. With my Boge cartos, which are around 3.5 ohms, it would need to be rated to 1.43 Amps. If a port is not rated to the draw of the device, it will either fry...or maybe it limits the voltage somehow. Not sure on this point, but perhaps Madshock can speak further to this. Is there sometimes an internal voltage regulator?
Another issue is the cable. I have fried several USB cables with my Bartleby, which is a 3.7V fast charging PT, essentially. Went through a bunch of cables. Some PTs that USB recharge an internal batt can draw a lot of current. The Hello Sit and Go 510 PTs, which are very nice devices, and are true 3.7V PTs, draw only 300 mA, which was a big plus for me, and these should be computer-safe.
Don't use a computer port with a 5V straight-wire PT...there have been several here that reported mother board frying!
Yea, I've already decided if I go the higher voltage vaping route to just get a mod. No risking the computer for me at all.
ok, so my pt came. i dont know but i believe its a 5v any way i get 1 or 2 really good hits then a dry burnt hit ugh, i set it down for a min let the juice flow and im good. i thought i would be able to chain vape. at least im not ripping through the batterys when im home now.
btw im using the adm with the spring / guess i could drip
btw im using the adm with the spring / guess i could drip
now im scared for my computer. from what ive read though a true 3.7 would be signifagint... what do i do? i was told my straight wire (no inline bat) would not work with a wall adapter any advise?
The Joye unit sold by cignot appears to have a battery pack inline. If that is the case then it is probably NOT a 5V PT. Can anyone clarify?
Seeing as this is a Joye 510 forum let's run some of your numbers.Do take note if you want a True 5V experience from your PT you will need a 5v 2amp USB wall plug. Plugging into a Ipod charger or your trusty Laptop/PC usb outlets is only gonna supply you 1amp MAX and it will only produce 3.3-3.5 Volts. So what you would experience is just a consistant regular 510 battery vape. just my 2 cents
First they won't actually supply a full 2A to the atty. If we use 1900mA that will power a Joye 510 at about 4.2V, maybe. 1A won't even fire a Joye.
1A WILL fire a joy. but likely you will be at the 3.2V range.
Idealy speaking, when a person wants to vape at 5 Volts. they are aiming for the wattage somewhere between 10-11 watts. so.. if you can do the formula.
you should get the current needed to fire your atty with 2.5ohm at 5volts with 2A.
And yes, the wallplug WILL NOT supply 2A straigth off. It depends on the Voltage and resistance to get that current value. thats why the ratings you see on plugs is stated 5V 2A MAX= VAriable.
BTW 1900ma Definately can fire and atty.
Battery Inlines are 3.7 volts PTs
Right, so, who is actually selling 5V PTs? People seem to be totally mistaken about what they're actually using.
Lot of vendors actually have them. I cant confirm this, but most PT that has the USB cable directly into the PT should be 5v. Unless otherwise stated.
The inline battery PT is sort of like charging the 3.7 batt to power the atty. so you are drawing on the battery power instead of directly from USB.
You are wrong. 1A will not fire a Joye (2.2Ω). Using Ohm's Law we get 2.2V. A Joye atty will not fire at 2.2V which is not even close to the 3.2V you erroneously stated. 3.2V would require at least 1.5A (50% more). To get the 11 watts you mention you'll need about 2.2A to the atty.1A WILL fire a joy. but likely you will be at the 3.2V range.
Idealy speaking, when a person wants to vape at 5 Volts. they are aiming for the wattage somewhere between 10-11 watts. so.. if you can do the formula.
you should get the current needed to fire your atty with 2.5ohm at 5volts with 2A.
And yes, the wallplug WILL NOT supply 2A straigth off. It depends on the Voltage and resistance to get that current value. thats why the ratings you see on plugs is stated 5V 2A MAX= VAriable.
BTW 1900ma Definately can fire and atty.
And BTW I clearly stated:
Unloaded volts mean nothing. 5V@ 50mA will still read as 5V with no load. If you want 5V, while vaping (loaded), with a Joye 510 you need 5V @ 2.3A.... period. To call a PT that doesn't come with a power supply, that can supply the correct current, 5V is disingenuous and misleading.
Speaking of misleading you have provided figures that are contradictory and wrong.
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