Best 5 Volt Mod
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As I understand it from the explanation given to me by a friend who is an Electrical Engineer at Tektronics, a partially conductive material will draw some energy out of the creating a bit of heat away from the atomizer changing the "shape" of the current, meaning that the voltage drop you get when you apply load is greater than when the cap is not applied. The net effect is that freshly charged RCR123a's start at about 5.5V net with the cap tightened (instead of the 6+volts you would expect from 2 fully charged 3V batteries), and then when the batteries drain to a certain point, the user can loosen the cap allowing the full voltage of the batteries to the atomizer extending the time vaping at 5V compared to mods that use a traditional resistor or regulator that caps the initial voltage.
Well. the Prodigy was the clear winner, but apparently they don't make it anymore.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like neither the Prodigy V2 or the Protege run @ 5v.
Consider yourself corrected
The Prodigy V2 is 5v!!! and I can not wait for it to show up at my front door
There is Delrin at three locations on this device. One at the atomizer connection insulating the center post from the atomizer threaded connector. Two insulating the switch itself from the tube. Three the end cap itself insulating the back of the switch from the tube and holding the switch from turning in the device and creating a short circuit. Which piece of Delrin are you proposing has this effect?
Wow.
Honestly... if that's what your friend the EE told you, then somebody needs to come and take his diploma away.
I have a adapter that I use for the 801s, it allows for airflow although I must say it is the one thing I do not like about my Xhaler. The adapter gets stuck on the atty all the time.
As for my favorite well it is the Xhaler since that is all I own. I did not vote since that really does not qualify me to do so. I do have a Prodigy V2 on order so once I get that I will be able to compare.
Watch the video for yourself: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/nhaler/55431-xhaler-video-instrutions-come.html
The voltmeter is quite clear: 5.3-5.4 volts when the cap is applied 6.5-6.6V when the cap is removed.
Vape with the cap loosened, you can taste a burnt metallic flavor. Tighten the cap and try it again and the burnt metallic flavor goes away. If it produces the desired effect, even if you don't understand how, what more do you want?
If you "just don't believe it", why don't you explain to me how he faked the voltmeter reading and how it is that any given reviewer mentions they can taste the difference and prefer 5V? Search this forum and count for yourself how many people have reported that as their vapor production was falling off, they loosened the cap and it picked back up?
The voltmeter is quite clear: 5.3-5.4 volts when the cap is applied 6.5-6.6V when the cap is removed.
Vape with the cap loosened, you can taste a burnt metallic flavor. Tighten the cap and try it again and the burnt metallic flavor goes away. If it produces the desired effect, even if you don't understand how, what more do you want?
If you "just don't believe it", why don't you explain to me how he faked the voltmeter reading and how it is that any given reviewer mentions they can taste the difference and prefer 5V? Search this forum and count for yourself how many people have reported that as their vapor production was falling off, they loosened the cap and it picked back up?
I am suddenly overwhelmed by a sense of déjà vu..obviously a blip in the matrix.
Dijon Vu: The feeling I've tasted this mustard before.
If people would stop talking about something they haven't tried for themself, perhaps this would not happen.
A friend whose opinion I respect did try one out and was unable to get any change in voltage. Apparently, the button contacts the inside of the body of the mod itself which would make it impossible at that point for the rear cap to have any effect. Electricity will always flow through the path of least resistance and the body's resistance is so low that it would not be possible to divert any of it.
Ask your EE friend.
I did ask my EE friend, I started to describe how it was designed to him and before I even finished describing he predicted how it could be done "Oh! So if it does <this> then <this> would happen." and then I finished describing it and he said "Yeah, that would <work>" (in more technical terms). Literally minutes later, Drew explained it to me and described exactly what my friend had predicted.
It's not just about taking the path of least resistance...if that was the only property of electricity through *ahem* semi-conductors, diodes, resistors, and capacitors wouldn't work. Some of the enegy "takes a shortcut", and escapes as heat. A similar phenomenon is what put an end to my testing because the wire spring began absorbing some of the energy (because I accidentally touched the wires between the mod and the load/atty that I was trying to hold in place while simultaneously hold the test probes creating a direct short) as heat that caused the spring to constrict, breaking the circuit and preventing damage to the batteries and/or atomizer and causing me to have a panic attack at the thought of trying to get through the New Years' celebration without my 5V "stick of awesomeness". Fortunately, Drew was there to save the Decade for me and he explained the basics of how it works (and it does work!) and walking me through fixing my Xhaler in time to Vape-in the New Year.
In a nutshell, the cap basically works the same way an atomizer works (less efficiently, but purposefully) but there is enough resistance in the material that it only works when the rest of the circuit is creating a load. I can't say I completely understand it, but it seems to be related to "low frequency dielectric relaxation of polyoxymethylene (Delrin) using a direct current technique"...and to be honest, when I see that particular combination of words used in a sentence, I really don't think I want the brain cramp from trying to understand it any better than I already do. I'm not stupid, in fact I am just smart enough to recognize what I don't WANT to understand further. It's just one of those, "You're the expert, I'll take your word for it that it works." things. I don't understand everything about how my LCD television works either, but I am completely certain that it does in fact work and I have some understanding of how.
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Care to share? I would genuinely be interested in how current is or even could be diverted from a near zero resistance path without breaking the path in some way.
Go re-watch his video. Notice how when he's got the cap loose and button depressed, the reading goes straight to 6.64 and kinda sits there, without fluctuating? That would be the characteristic of measuring a pair of batteries, not an atomizer in use. Doesn't that strike you as the least bit odd? If that's supposed to be the definitive evidence of its dual-voltage capability, it's seriously lacking.
It literally is "breaking the path in some way". If the cap was completely conductive it would be a short circuit, giving a meter reading of zero. If it was completely non-conductive it would have no effect and the meter reading would be whatever the batteries are putting out (6.54V, in this case). However, a resistor is a semi-conductor, so the meter reads 5.34V when placed under load as seen in the video.
YouTube - XHALER Endcap Demo
5.40V (0:24 in the video) with the cap enabled.
6.64V (0:31 in the video) with the cap disabled.
Now, either explain to me how the voltmeter was faked, or stop spreading FUD.
Are you accusing Drew of stopping the video, disconnecting the atomizer, and then seamlessly editing the video so that you can't see any change to the fact that the atomizer is still connected?? I've got several years experience in video production, and I don't see a jump cut. Do you? How did he manage to disconnect the load without there being some sort of visual movement? (You realize, don't you, that the voltmeter would not read 5.4V a few seconds earlier unless there was a load because the resistor only works when placed under load--which is WHY I couldn't simply test the voltage without wiring something between the Xhaler and the atomizer.
There is a video around that does explain how the video could be faked. In fact it was even posted on ECF by someone. Not me. It got a total of three views before "poof" gone no record of it ever being.
Let's try Occam's Razor here: Do you think it is more likely that the video was pulled because Drew released a poorly faked video or because he released a poorly produced video that was a little jumpy and confusing at the beginning but had clear results toward the end. Watch the video here and now and tell me how it is faked. Where is the cut between 0:24 and 0:31 where it shows 5V and 6V meter readings?
I'm sorry, but if Drew was good enough with Video production to fake this video, there is no way he would have released something as jumpy and obviously rushed as the earlier version. If faked, that is some seriously impressive work and Drew is in the wrong business...and I'd stake my professional credibility in video production on that. I just watched that portion about 5 times in a row and noticed a bit of shakiness in the camera indicating that it was being held by an operator (not on a tri-pod), therefore not only are you suggesting that he managed to stop the video, make visually undetectable change to the circuit, resume the video (back and forth 5 or 6 times, mind you) and then completely digitally correct the sync of the smallest handheld camera movements without losing focus, exposure, and Drew managed to place his arms in EXACTLY the same position after invisibly removing the load from the circuit.
EDIT: IBTL. If you don't want the Xhaler, don't buy it. Otherwise, stop spreading FUD!!
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*sigh* I'm not accusing him of anything, merely pointing out that it's a pretty glaring inconsistency, and shouldn't be taken as conclusive evidence... are you capable of understanding that some people aren't trying to bash the product for bashing's sake, but are genuinely interesting in seeing if it actually DOES WORK?
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