Best Atomizer for Vappr Flask DNA 40

[minimal]

So I recently purchased a VF dna 40 (w/ variable voltage & temp. control) from 3FVape. I've always had horrible luck wih RBA's so I figured I could get some insight here..

The 3FVape website states "It only works with nickel 200 wire though. With other wire, it's only a normal VV/VW."

I currently have a genesis style tank but I'm getting pretty tired of rebuilding it, I vape a lot and find myself rebuilding a lot.

So naturally I want the best of all worlds
- Easy, less frequent, or no building required.
- Flavor
- Clouds

I have about 20 days until arrival so I have some time to figure it out, I'm still new to the technical aspects of vaping and learning so please bare with the n00b questions atm!

 

[KenD]

I don't have one (yet), but the Kanger Subtanks have been getting rave reviews. At least on the regular size, but possibly also on the mini (which is actually 22 mm), you have the option of using pre-built coils or using a rba deck. Pre-built Ni200 coils should be available soon from Kanger (or may already be), and I believe that Vaporshark sells it's own ni200 coils for the Subtank.

 

[minimal]

I don't have one (yet), but the Kanger Subtanks have been getting rave reviews. At least on the regular size, but possibly also on the mini (which is actually 22 mm), you have the option of using pre-built coils or using a rba deck. Pre-built Ni200 coils should be available soon from Kanger (or may already be), and I believe that Vaporshark sells it's own ni200 coils for the Subtank.

Are copper coils pretty standard across the board? I've always rebuilt with the same wires and haven't necessrily dived into the spectrum of options since beginning to build / vape

 

[Sida]

I don't think you need to look for anything specifically for the VF, simply pick one as you would anyway. The only difference will be the wire you use. Personally I'm using a Plume Veil clone on my VF and absolutely love it, though that is partly down to the fact I'm using high VG liquid with barely any throat hit so I'm inhaling direct to lungs. It's great to build on and has plenty of space inside so it's easy to build large coils and rewick often. I have 2 of these now and plan on getting a third.

For a mouth vape where the liquid would destroy my throat on a lung hit I use my Kayfun Lite.

Pretty much everything you need to know about the basics of building for the DNA 40 can be found here. Everything else is exactly the same as with kanthol etc so you can use the many youtube videos for building coils.

A couple of tips I'll give are firstly to always make sure your coil isn't hot when first putting it on to the VF as it'll screw the temp readings and give you a crap vape. Second is that if it won't detect your new coil you can unscrew the atomizer a bit, hold the fire button so it says "Check atomizer" and then screw it down properly. It'll detect as a new coil.

For the NI200 I like to use between .2mm and .3mm, with .3 being pretty damn chunky and used rarely. Most of my coils are made with .2, .23 or .25mm.

 

[Cloudhound]

I think it's more build specific and use specific than picking the RDA built for a DNA 40. There are a lot of really good RDA suggestions, so just pick the one you like and then modify the build to suit.

Good Luck! I love the DNA 40 chip and I think the temp control is the way of the future for consciencious vapers.

 

[Croak]

Are copper coils pretty standard across the board? I've always rebuilt with the same wires and haven't necessrily dived into the spectrum of options since beginning to build / vape

If you're not interested in nickel (not copper, nickel) wire builds required to use temperature control, the Kangxin Flask will work just like any other mod, nothing needs to change if you don't want it to.

So any atty that works on any other mod will work on the Flask...and since it has working voltage step down and a working 1-40 watt range, that means any 510 compatible atty on the market can be dialed in to work well with it.

All that said, yeah, the Subtank Mini would be a very good choice, giving you the option of using the included RBA base if you desire, and the option of seeing if temperature control is for you by either building a Ni200 coil for the RBA (and it's an easy deck to build single coils on), or using the prebuilt Ni200 coil heads for it (at a price premium, $18 for 5 Ni200 heads vs about $14-$15 per 5-packs of the regular Kanthal version, plus side being the Ni200 heads should last longer with TC active).

 

[chia]

the Taifun GT2 is a pretty good rba.. easy to wick/rewick, refill etc etc.. tick all the right box for me works well enough with nickel too.. or khantal too.

wanted a Kanger subtank initially too, but after reading a review on YT, had second thoughts. reason is this; excellent build all round, but the wick holes on the rba base are very small and probably cannot compares to how the prebuilds is gonna wick.. so you might end up chucking it aside later and using the prebuilds.. which means higher cost anyway. I have no easy access to getting spares and other vape stuffs around here... so I have to choose my purchase carefully.. but its up to you really.

have not tried TC with genesis tanks yet so I can't comment, but other tanks work fine.. and I notice TC on rda actually make me refill less..

good luck on your decision

 

[Croak]

Thing is, the Subtank RBA (both the 25mm and 22mm version) wicks pretty darn good through those tiny holes, provided you make sure the wicking material isn't covering the holes on the deck. Plus, if you DO prefer the wicking on the pre-builts, they are super easy to rebuild and re-wick yourself, even in Ni200.

 

[Kenndall]

I have been using a sub tank mini with nickel and been having great results on my vapor flask. Nickel can be a PITA if using an RDA with through-post holes, but not impossible. I use a magma in single coil with nickel on occasion.