Best battery for getting into RDA'ing?

[GoodNews!]

Hey guys, with wanting to get into rda'ing, the first thing I want to do is give up my Spinner battery.

I'm trying my hardest to buy local, but I'm getting sort of mixed feelings about the prices and devices the shop has.

If I'm really big on ensuring that my battery is giving off the best form of power to ensure that it's not something that could effect the performance in a negative way, what is really the best thing I should choose?

At first, I was just leaning toward the MVP2, as a user had said that the MVP2 would have the ability to output a smoother voltage (something like that) than any Spinner, but I'm questioning why the lil stick iTaste wouldn't do this, for 1/3rd the price?

Beyond that, as I'm getting into RDA'ing, the truth is that you never know what you might find, you never know what you might get into.

Now, I'm not the guy who's ever really dreamed of sub-ohming, but what if I do find some positives to going down to 1.2, 1.0, 0.8, much lower ohms? Do you guys think that I'd end up leaning toward lower ohms, or do you think that if I'm mainly a flavor chaser, that the normal ohms would be able to provide the thick, juicy, true-to-life flavors I really chase? (Without any negatives like quick gunking or sour flavor?)

I'm generally looking to save every dime I can because, if there isn't a positive over one battery over another beyond how long the battery lasts, I do have to choose the money saving option and put that money toward any atomizer gear I'll continuously need.

Any words of wisdom? If I were to hear that the cheap lil $30 iTaste is actually a pretty decent battery for RDA's (even if it looks weird), even when you want to try out micro-coils and stuff like that (though I'd stay in the normal ohm range if there's no experience negative with that?) then I'd get the iTaste, but I really don't know which battery is gong to give me the best vapor/flavor performance based on any internal voltage method thing type deal.... or if there is really any difference between a lot of these mods out there today?

Is there any sort of power positive over choosing a similair battery that uses the rechargeable batteries as opposed to internal mah's?

Thank you, as I have to make a choice either by tomororow or Monday!

 

[PLANofMAN]

If you want internal, buy the MVP. It will last longer than the regular "stick" iTaste. If you don't break it, the MVP has the ability to last up to 2 years...maybe even longer. The iTaste, with it's 800 mAh battery, will last a year at most, if you charge it daily.

The SVD takes replaceable batteries and is more powerful than the MVP. It has known issues (with the 510 connection and the power button), which may or may not have been fixed at this time.

Most of the VV/VW mods coming from China no longer use that dreadful 33.3 hz chipset, so you are fairly safe picking something at random, provided your vendor has the latest version. The only VV/VW mod I wouldn't recommend is the Vamo. The V5 Vamo's are stripping the 510 connections left and right.

Buy a stainless mod, if you can. The threads on the aluminum mods go downhill really, really fast.
either way, to protect your mod, I would recommend using a 510 to eGo adapter on it, no matter which mod you end up choosing.

If you buy a mod that takes replaceable batteries, buy only AW IMR batteries. If they don't have those, get Efests. If the owner tries to sell you batteries that are Trustfire, Ultrafire, or anything else *fire, put your money back in your pocket and look for another vendor.

If I thought there was a remote chance of you following my advice, I'd tell you to get certified and buy a ProVari off the classifieds. If you didn't like it, you could turn around and sell it for what you paid for it.

 

[GoodNews!]

I was actually thinking "I'll make this easy and just get a Provari."!

Great tip about the threading!

I may end up going the MVP2 route though - I am trying to consider all possibilities, but with that battery already being inside, it's kind of making me say "Geez, I really need all the simplicity I can get atm."

Concerning the RDA's, truth be told, if life could be as easy as buying some pre-wrapped coils from Cisco, and just putting them in the RDA, doing a little adjusting, and have a vape - I'm sure that's a big if - I'm thinking that buying pre-wound could at least give me a little more experience first with how to adjust position for the best vape, and which wick material really suits me best.

If an MVP2, a normal little RDA, and the pre-wraps could give me a decent vape, I have to say - whew, sometimes I feel like I'd be blessed if I could just do that.

I may move on from the MVP2 though depending on this question - does the MVP have stainless steel threads? Threads have been a big problem with my Spinner, they wore out like it was nothing. Not terribly, but everything I put on it is a little loose.

Also, non-battery related question, but I guess it's simple enough to at least ask on the same thread - for those who started rebuilding, and went through a time of building just a normal, spaced coil at say, 2.1ohms or around that range - if it is a decent coil and wicks pretty well, generally, what is the flavor and vapor like?

I don't want to suddenly say I'm cloud chasing, but after experiencing the clouds I've gotten from some of even the most unlikely devices, I'm like "Well... I don't wanna give that up either!" I gotta say, I know everyone's off getting turned on by their own vapor so I'm sure it's nothing when I say this, but apart from my flavor zaniness, I am like the dumb luck cloud master at getting those devices to churn out some surprisingly huge clouds, across the board.

Kinda worried that with a normal old mid-range coil, that I wouldn't get any better vapor than the type that's all transparent and unfulfilling and weak - with the devices I try, it's constantly surprising every time I open my mouth and billows of that pure white, nimbus cloud looking vapor... it's definately that "Swoooosh" vapor lol! I'd miss it if gone, no lie!

*No bragging meant, as it's nothing but dumb luck for me - but lol cloud vapor is so fun! It makes me smile like every time I see it, I'm like a child focused on a new toy with those clouds, I can't even look away from it - every single time, it's like, I gotta look at it!*

 

[TXSundevil]

Best I can tell the threads on my MVP 2.0 are SS, but in any case, have not experienced any problems with them in any way, ego or 510 threads. I have been using mine with my igo-l with just a single micro coil @ 1.4, which it fires with no problem. Nice for just flavor dripping. The threads on my Sigelei Zmax v5 are also stainless GN, and I have had no issues with those either. The Sigelei I like just a tad better when using rebuildables though. The reason for that is when I do want some extra power, I can go as high as 15 watts....not a huge margin higher than the MVP 2.0, but sometimes that 4 watts can really make a flavor sing, or add that extra warmth if thats what I'm looking for. I think you'd be happy with either, as your posts pretty much sound like you really won't be in that....MORE POWER zone often. As a side note, for dual coil builds and a little more cloudiness, I do own a Nemesis Mech as well to go 1 ohm and below, also the stainless model, threads are awesome there too. To Sum it up all 3 devices I mentioned, great threads, no issues, no wobbles. Side benefit to the MVP 2.0, that battery carries an awesome charge, heavy vaping I can easily go a couple days without a charge! Good luck making a choice that works for you!

Oh another quick note....the MVP 2.0 delivers straight power as well, not pulse width modulation. For some folks that is a huge deal when it comes to their vape, some say, Mods that use PWM can cause the vapor to seem a tad harsh at times, depending on the juice and the wattage, etc etc. My Sigelei does use the PWM to deliver power, I can't say that I myself have noticed a huge difference on the flavor or harshness end of things. Another great reason to recommend that MVP. Bang for the buck its an awesome little unit.

 

[Fittytigsic]

Well personally I love my magneto for my RDA. I have an octopus with a hole drilled in the shield for more airflow. The magneto is a mechanical mod…that means that is basically outputs whatever voltage your battery is putting out(and theres just a battery post so no circitry . Idk this just makes it easy on me because I have figured out what resistance coil I like with my battery voltage, and all I have to do is screw it on and vape away! If you are strictly wanting to get into RDAs I would say go with a mech mod, BUT if you want to use any other type of say clearomizer or even higher resistance atomizers then don't get one.

I also have the Sigelei Zmax v5 and I like it a lot. It also works great on my RDA along with whatever else I want to put on it. The only problem with some variable voltage/ variable wattage mods is they will not fire if the coil is built under around 1.2 ohms(at least on the sigelei), and that is what makes the mechanical mod a beautiful thing!!! because it will fire at whatever resistance coil you put on it.

Plus, if you are on a budget you can get the magneto for 40 bucks along with shipping. Most other mods even entry level run at least 60 at least that I can think of. MVP, Vamo, Zmax… except for the Smoktech SID! which you should also check out too if you're interested(you can find it for around 48ish dollars online).

Now, at around 2.1 ohms…well it really depends on a few things.

1) juice- I vaped 100VG dragon fruit from vapor renu for a while and it literally tasted like a campfire. I just recently tried Melon Medley by Jameson's irish vapor and it was 50/50….tastes like heaven at the same resistance

2)The voltage that you decide to vape on-With RDAs, you have a much higher range of voltage that you can vape on. Say you put a 1.2 ohm coil in my RDA and ran it at 3.8 volts…Great amount of vapor and good flavor(at least for my juice and my setup). If i put a 1.2 ohm coil in a clearomizer at the same voltage I would burn it to hell. So it depends

Hmmmm i had more in mind but i can't remember right now..

Hope this helps you a little bit! But the MVP is definitely a good way to go!

 

[PLANofMAN]

I started off my coil building career on Genisis atomizers. I think most of us did or were inspired by others that did. *tips hat to raidy* For flavor, it's really, really hard to beat a genny. The flip side of that is all of the angst one goes through getting it to work properly. The mesh has to be just perfect...too tight and it won't wick, too loose and the coil shorts out all over the place. Those bloody coils... when I was starting out, it would take me an hour or two to build it just right, torching everything to build up the carbon layer, poking out hotspots with a toothpick... vaping it for a day or two, waiting for the metallic taste to go away... only to be walking down the street and have the coil pop, or short out... I could go on.

To get to the point, building a coil on a "modern" (and I use the term loosely) bottom coil rebuildable is a joy. The parts that you work on are all exposed, easy to get at, you build the coil, pulse it a few times to torch it, check the oHms, stick a cotton wick in there, put a few drops of VG on it, pop the chimney on it, take a quick vape to make sure everything's working, put it together, fill it with juice and Bob's your Uncle.

When the taste starts getting muted, you take it apart, yank the wick, dry burn the coil a few times, stick a new wick in, and you are good to go again.

Rebuildable drippers are even simpler.

I'm running a perfect 2 oHm microcoil (3 wraps of 32 awg Kanthal) on a Kayfun Lite clone (with air flow control) on a ProVari at 4.0 volts. I'm getting at least twice the flavor and clouds I was getting from the same setup on a ProTank. I'm vaping the last of my DIY Unflavored WTA (100% VG) from Aroma E-Juice, and let me tell you, that stuff has lots of flavor, even by itself. When that's all gone, I'll swap out the PMMA clear section of tank for the metal section and treat myself to Pluid in a Kayfun.

Once you learn how, coils are easy to build and will last practically forever if you maintain them. The next time you make toast, have a gander at the glowing wire inside it.

Yep. Kanthal A1 heater wire. You've been using it your whole life already... take the next step.

...and no, that does not mean you should take your toaster apart to get at the wire.

Edit: You guys will let me know if my posts start getting too epic and long winded, won't you?

 

[TheJakeBailey]

Innokin iTaste MVP V2.0 - 101 Vape

Back in stock.

 

[GoodNews!]

Naw, you guys know I don't mind long posts!

@ JakeBailey, the MVP2 link, that one for sure isn't a clone? I've pretty much never seen one for that low! It even comes with an iClear 30 (just in case I want to try torturing my tongue again...) I don't see in the features that it has short-circuit cut-off though, and if I remember correctly, the guy at the shop said the MVP1 didn't have that, and I think that was why I was holding out for the MVP2... I dunno if it's true, but I figure there must be some difference between the 1 and 2!

And while looking around at the other mods recommended, one of the things I've come across, even on the forum, that kind of strikes out to me is maybe a mod that has a center pin that stays well adjusted - I never get a problem with not firing on my battery, but I sometimes wonder if a wonky center pin can cause some harsh performance or anything - because my Spinner threads are loose, I tend to have to tighten down the device quite a bit, which I'm sure pushes that center pin down.

But if that couldn't be a problem.... for $40, that MVP2 isn't a bad deal.

Also, what type of wall charger is truly safe to use with the MVP2 if that one on the site doesn't come with one? See, I'm a bit paranoid about wall chargers when it comes to our hobby. There's chargers made for cars, computers, walls, ect ect, but I see nothing but problems when someone plugs their battery into a car charger or computer - I even hear problems with it every time I walk into a shop.

The most frightening of experiences was that I bought a little eGo + CE4 kit, and before charging (the battery was already half charged) the CE4 on it was working brilliantly (really was!). Charged the battery on the wall charger that I bought seperately at the shop, and the CE4 instantly tasted like hashy sour fish, and nothing tasted right on that battery since (the same problems as on the Spinner) To this day, I'm almost convinced that charging it with the charger I bought seperately somehow influenced the battery to vape in a bit different way - if there's any possibility of that, it could be the exact problem I've been having on the Spinner.

Just one of those experiences I can't explain - again, the first day I vaped on that eGo + CE4 kit, I swore I was going to be in vaping heaven because the result was so good!

So idk... I like to be really picky about the chargers, there's just so many that charge seemingly at different power levels and it'd be nice if Innokin actually sold a wall charger with this instead of an iClear.... any advice on the charger thing?

 

[MissKitty47]

It should come with a charger, and you are correct...only use that charger. Main difference from mvp 1 is watts. Watts will change the flavor game BIG time. The itaste v3 does the same thing, much much much shorter battery life. Pick one up later as a back up, but start with mvp2.

Sent by my cat through pure magic

 

[CreepyLady]

Naw, you guys know I don't mind long posts!

@ JakeBailey, the MVP2 link, that one for sure isn't a clone? I've pretty much never seen one for that low! It even comes with an iClear 30 (just in case I want to try torturing my tongue again...) I don't see in the features that it has short-circuit cut-off though, and if I remember correctly, the guy at the shop said the MVP1 didn't have that, and I think that was why I was holding out for the MVP2... I dunno if it's true, but I figure there must be some difference between the 1 and 2!
...............................
So idk... I like to be really picky about the chargers, there's just so many that charge seemingly at different power levels and it'd be nice if Innokin actually sold a wall charger with this instead of an iClear.... any advice on the charger thing?

The 1 is not VW, does not have an OhmsMeter, Remaining Battery Voltage on the display. The menu on v1 was V+ and V- on v2 you have U and P (Volts and Watts - one button for switching modes and you have to click and circle around - up to 11 and one more click for 6-to return to a lower setting)

101Vape is selling genuine Innokin MVP V2 42.98 shipped.

Key with picking a "wall wart" is to look for "overcharge protection" and output 5v. Pretty much any wall adapters for modern electronic will meet the needed requirements. Just look for a sticker on it. If you dont have one with a sticker, or with a sticker that says it has overcharge protection and 5v usb output :
Amazon.com: YourTech RS-4 Orange 5W 5V/1A USB AC wall charger for smartphones Apple iPhone 5S 5C 5 4S 4 Andriod phones, Samsung Galaxy S4 S3, Blackberry Nokia, Driod Motorola, HTC One with LED indicator that shows charging status: Electronics

 

[Diogenes]

From 101Vape:

IN THE BOX:

MVPv2
Iclear30
Charging cable
Beauty ring
clear jewel case

It comes with a USB cord that has a tri-head adapter on it, for older iPods, iPhones, and iPads, a mini USB, and a micro USB port. If you are going to charge your MVP off your computer, (or really any battery that uses a USB cord for charging), make sure the USB port is a USB 2.0 port. Otherwise, you can use a standard cellphone charger that uses a micro-USB port for charging. I've used a Samsung charger for both my MVP and my eVic and have never had any problems at all.

As far as the battery imparting a funny fishy taste into the vape, unless you are vaping the battery, I can't see how it could possibly effect the vape in the least. Now, with a fully charged battery, you probably had more power going to your clearo, which would effect the vape. But that can be fixed by dialing down the power on the spinner, or changing out the resistance on the clearo.

 

[TXSundevil]

@GoodNews!, The MVP 2.0 does indeed come with its own usb charger, it will plug straight into the wall piece you use for your spinner. I do also use that same cable the MVP 2.0 came with to charge directly from the PC, it Does not function as a true pass through, but you can vape with it while its charging that way, it just interupts the charge circuit while you take a toot. The MVP does indeed have short protection, if you have a short it will indicate on the display when you press both side buttons to read the ohms. Also it will not fire...the green fire button will come on and blink 3 times, but will not fire. Those $40 MVP's are the real deal, I have several friends that have ordered them at that price and it has been the actual Innokin product that they recieved. The center pins on my Segelei and MVP both have been rock solid have not had to tinker with them at all, I just keep them clean and free of fluid when I swap out toppers and no issues at all. The Nemesis mech has an adjustable center pin, which is nice, I back it all the way out...mount my device, then screw the pin back to meet the device. Hope some of this helps!

Everytime I hit enter I think of one more thing to mention. Again, with the ohms your talking about running at, I don't think it will be an issue GoodNews!, but the amperage that each unit can draw before cut off is worth mentioning, the MVP 2.0 cuts at 3.5 amps, and the Segelei cuts off at 5. Again applying ohms law to the range you intend on running, I don't think you'll ever cross the 2.5 amp barrier, but something to consider if you need the room to move. As I mentioned in the earlier post, I can run a 1.3-1.4 micro coil on both devices and have had no issues what so ever.

 

[PLANofMAN]

After reading some of the posts after mine, I have a few more thoughts to add.

Don't charge your device off of a computer. Laptop or otherwise. That's just stupid. Most times when you hear about eGo's catching on fire while charging, the person had it stuck into the side of their laptop. There's no voltage cutoff on those USB ports.

The MVP V1 is garbage. The 510 connection and the mini charger port were both improved for V2. The V2 has other features, sure, but the most important one is that it won't break as easily as the V1.

Edit: and the price being so much better than your B&M's price is easily explained too. If you buy it for $40, you and he are probably buying it from the same place. He just adds a markup so he can make money.
Here's a V2 for $45, but if you order from there, it will take a few weeks to get to you.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/...entic-innokin-itaste-mvp-variable-voltage-apv
Here's a SVD for $37, same deal on the wait.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004594/1525701-authentic-innokin-itaste-svd-telescopic-variable

Naw, you guys know I don't mind long posts!

I was actually asking everyone else if they minded...

 

[merddyn2002]

Based on YT videos I tried Orbtech batteries. Love them. You generally want to stick to sony or panasonic cells, which is what Orbtech uses.

 

[TheJakeBailey]

@ JakeBailey, the MVP2 link, that one for sure isn't a clone? I've pretty much never seen one for that low! It even comes with an iClear 30 (just in case I want to try torturing my tongue again...)

Yes I'm sure. I bought my second MVP2 from them, and I think they have sold a truckload of them since they started selling at that price. But I know you like research, so don't take my word for it...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ussion/473345-itaste-mvp-v2-owners-group.html

Pretty sure about half of that truckload sold were to people in here.

 

[GoodNews!]

Alright, so the charger I bought to charge the Ego kit didn't have any stickers at all (it was simply branded with the shop's Logo), but the charger I use to charge my Spinner says this:

Input: 100-240V/AC 50/60hz 150ma
Output: 5.0V 500ma 50ma

Doesn't say anything about overcharge protection either.

That's what's confusing about the original Ego kit - again, first time using it, I loaded up the CE4, amazing flavor, amazing vapor, probably one of the best experiences I've had in vaping. Battery died, charged it a couple hours (the battery had a defect where it didn't light up to signalize it's finished charging, but it charges anyway), and as soon as I put the CE4 on, even at 3.3V's-4.1V's, tasted horrible. The CE4 was only used for about 40 puffs before I charged it, no way it shoulda burnt out, and it didn't burn out before I charged - tasted great until the battery died.

I find that for the Spinners, no matter what ohms you're using, that 3.7-4.0V's is the exact sweetspot, 9 times out of 10, for both vapor and flavor. Anything lower barely puts out vaper, and anything higher usually tastes burnt. An exception can sometimes be a 1.8ohm coil where the sweet spot remains around 3.3-3.5V's. The CE4 was 2.1 or 2.4, I believe.

Possible overcharge from the battery? Possible charge defect effecting the type of voltage waves or anything?

I just don't that to happen to the MVP2 - what's good about battery mods is that if you feel anything is wrong with the batteries you're using, you just switch em out. But I do want to go with the MVP2 I believe, if there really is no chance that the battery could cause anything to do with a bad vape.

With that experience, I honestly have just been a little paranoid about wall chargers since then - again, the vape was heavenly before the charge, and horrible after the charge, no matter what the setting. It was the flavor that changed most of all, a very fishy flavor. It was almost like the voltage was giving power, but was doing it in a way where it tasted too harsh yet was also not vaporizing the flavoring enough. Tried the CE4 on my Spinner after that, same problem - then again, both batteries themselves have been a real curse.

Maybe the link has already been posted and I missed it, but does anyone have a link to a wall charger that for sure has all the protection features and output/input specifics that will ensure the MVP stays working true-to-form from the first charge onward? No possible dangers or effects to the battery?

(P.S. You know, thinking about it, with how my Spinner barely produces vapor under 3.7, but burns anything up above 3.9 or 4.0, it almost sounds like the regulation in my battery is funky, and that using 3.7 volts, which is seems to be the native voltage at full charge (or low charge, forgot which), maybe it's a sign that the regulators in Spinner batteries just aren't too great. Maybe they give just a funky wavelength or something - I wouldn't be surprised, seeing as with cheap goods, I'm sure that they did whatever they could to make the production cheap as possible, probably only giving the user the "idea" that they're using true VV - I've known companies to pull scams like this with pretty much all types of electronic products out there, products that sort of give the user the idea that they're using a feature, but the feature not really coming into any worthy use once they test stuff with it.)

Or then again, maybe I'm not a fan of regulation vaping, maybe I somehow get a better vape with just straight volts from the battery. In that case, is this what VW really tries to improve? Is it why flavor can be better with that?

Also, what's the whole RMS thing exactly?

 

[catalinaflyer]

Oi Vey!

A DC (Direct Current) battery does one thing, provides DIRECT CURRENT. There are no magical waves, signals, pulses, shooters on a grassy knoll, dirty socks or any of the other stuff. Electricity goes in, it's stored then when asked it comes out, in a solid stream, direct current style. The charger used to charge a battery HAS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH THE QUALITY, FLAVOR or anything else of the vapor. It's direct current, DC, clean, no waves, no pulses, no magic, just plain ole electricity.

There have been a relatively small handful of problems with batteries while CHARGING. The problems encountered with batteries while vaping have nothing to do with the type of charger. I'm going to go against your "scientific discovery" and say that 99.999% of those failures are directly related to improper use while vaping not the magic electrons places there by the charger.

YES, an improperly charged battery can have issues later like getting hot when it shouldn't but most people will take the advice of the masses and stop using that battery before it does affect the flavor IN THE FORM OF WHITE HOT BURNING LITHIUM GAS!!

I can take my 18650's and charge them on 100 different chargers with 100 different sets of electronics yet the vape from the device that battery is placed in will be EXACTLY THE SAME!!

 

[MissKitty47]

O my Lord, gn...don't overthink here...please!

Sent by my cat through pure magic

 

[catalinaflyer]

Or then again, maybe I'm not a fan of regulation vaping, maybe I somehow get a better vape with just straight volts from the battery. In that case, is this what VW really tries to improve? Is it why flavor can be better with that

VV and VW are to different ways to get the same result. You can set the voltage to get a target wattage or let the device decide based on the resistance it sees set the voltage to achieve the desired wattage. A VW device is VV.

Also, what's the whole RMS thing exactly?

Maybe try Google Root mean square - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[TheJakeBailey]

This is me, not getting any further involved in this. ;-) y'all have fun!