Best battery for getting into RDA'ing?

[GoodNews!]

I'm just asking about the RMS because the VTR states this as a feature, where the other batteries do not.

And I was just asking a question about the charges based on my experience, and I'm glad the answer was provided, if it is indeed true and correct information. That's all I ever expect a forum to be for.

Other users on this thread stated that it was wise to use a charger with protection and not to charge with certain chargers (have seen that advice posted on other threads too), so I'm just wondering which users are incorrect.

My batteries also have never gotten physically hot, except around the 510 connection when using drippers or a few other mini-tank atomizers (like the Flux).

If you do believe I was using correct vaping techniques before the battery charge, but somehow forgot those same techniques a couple hours later (as 650mah batteries do only take a couple hours to charge) could you please be more specific as to which techniques could improve my vape and could be better for my memory to remember over the span of a couple hours?

Someone also said VW gives a better flavor on this thread, and again, I'm simply wondering which users are incorrect. Contradictory information can be confusing to a user who is simply trying to get the best vape. If information is contradictory, that's the only time I've ever asked questions on this forum - that's to say, always.

Thank you everyone, as always!

And again, I ask users to be polite when discussing topics, and if you feel the need to be strong worded in the post, please point out how other users are wrong before you believe I am the only one being confused by the information.

If I were to believe that VW is somehow a much needed improvement for flavor, this is information that could make the difference between me buying an MVP2 and a battery mod. That's how the information can be confusing to a member who knows no true information about these batteries and how they work.

And because of that, if you have problems with users who ask questions, I would, in my own opinion, stay on forums that are dedicated to complex modders who do indeed know all of this information on hand and expect more complex and/or factual information from fellow experts who are already as well aware of the same products and informations.

As a newer member (and an older vaper who has not dived into complex mods or electrical facts) I stated that I am a "newbie" when it comes to this type of information.

 

[sawlight]

This is me, not getting any further involved in this. ;-) y'all have fun!

Yup, I'm there myself.

 

[Asbestos4004]

ahem... I'll give it a try.
I would trust the charger that is provided with the MVP to be sufficiently safe to charge the MVP. If you decide on a tube mod, Nitecore makes a fine charger. Not too expensive. In my experience VV and VW get you to the same place. I use a ProVari...no VW. I have an SVD . When I use it, it's in VV as VW offers no real benefits TO ME. Certain juices like certain temperatures. It's not all about the resistance of the coil that defines how much power I put to it...It's simply a good starting point. I adjust to taste.

 

[catalinaflyer]

GoodNews! I wasn't saying anyone is wrong or right. I was simply stating that a Variable Wattage device is Variable Voltage. However a Variable Voltage ONLY device is not a Variable Wattage. A VV device simply puts the amount of voltage you select to the atomizer. A variable wattage device adjusts the voltage itself to produce the wattage you select by looking at the resistance and calculating the voltage needed to achieve that wattage.

Example - You have an atomizer that's supposed to be 1.8 ohms and you want to start vaping at 8 watts (which has long been agreed by many to be a good middle ground starting point.) With a Variable Voltage Only device you have to do the calculation to figure out the voltage which would be 3.8 volts. Now if that atomizer is actually 2.0 ohms and you select the 3.8 volts your only getting 7.2 watts. Now if you have a Variable Wattage device you don't need to know the exact resistance of the atomizer, you can just tell it you want 8 watts and it will figure out how many volts is needed to get that 8 watts. The only reason for needing to know the exact ohms on a VW device is to make sure your not asking the device to exceed its capability. Which any decent VW device won't do, it will just provide all it has the capability of doing.

As for the MVP advertising RMS, I have no idea why because almost all variable voltage devices use RMS to achieve the set voltage. I'm no electronics engineer so I don't completely understand all the formulation but I can read an oscilloscope and pictures speak volumes.

Now as far as the charger questions, the charger that comes with the device will be fine. Don't plug it into a USB port on a computer, that's not what they're designed for. Buy from trusted vendors or established B&M's and avoid eBay, gas stations, get rich quick kiosks at the mall and you should be just fine.

 

[PLANofMAN]

Last time I post in this thread.

You are overthinking this stuff. I find VW to be inaccurate in most Chinese devices, because of their method of boosting voltage. Basically, once a battery drains to the point where instead of reducing voltage, it has to boost it, they vape inconsistently. It's the main reason I haven't jumped on the VW bandwagon yet.

The DNA20 chip has other problems in that it does not have a voltage reducer, so for people who like hot vapes or vape high oHms, it's ideal, but you can never vape lower than what the battery itself is outputting...so 4.2v to start, and gradually working it's way down to 3.3v.

Getting back to the MVP V2, it's VV output is more consistent than it's VW output- once the battery drops to half strength. Most people won't notice, and those that do can either re-charge their device, or switch over to volts from watts.

Honestly, like you yourself said, this is newbie stuff. The rest of your questions can answered with the most cursory of searches, and you really should have learned this stuff (or at least asked these questions) before you left the newbie section of the forum.

...And again, I ask users to be polite when discussing topics, and if you feel the need to be strong worded in the post, please point out how other users are wrong before you believe I am the only one being confused by the information.

If you feel the need to ask for this, that means you already know your question is one that you should have been able to find the answer to, yourself.

Like they say in "The Shark Tank," and for that reason...

Edit: The Innokin iTaste 134 is one of the few mods that are VW only, and no, Spinners don't have a DNA chip. For one, spinners are VV only, and for 2, the DNA20 chip by itself, costs $50. The MVP V2 does not use a DNA20 Chip. No Chinese devices do, I just threw that in because it is useful info to have and is relevant to the conversation.

Quit posting and start reading.

 

[GoodNews!]

So with the VW, the way it works is pretty much that when you first fire the battery, it automatically chooses a voltage, but then you can change it from there?

... Not so sure I'd like that feature. With my experiences, ohm rules have pretty much been completely out the window (which imo is normal when coils have variances like build features and wrap styles that cause a coil to heat up faster or slower, or hotter or cooler, in their own terms, but read out the same ohms regardless.... and same with juices having different effects.)

But no device out there is simply VW, so no issue there! I can always try it out, see how the difference effects my vaping!

One thing too, is that virtually no MVP2 seems to come with a wall charger ... would anyone know if the wall charger on the $40-MVP2 website would be safe to use for the MVP2, or again, if it's just a wall charger, does that mean safe is safe is safe?

Oh, btw, does the Spinner have a DNA20 chip - looks like we're getting down to real business with that type of question. I just, ya know, am trying to avoid anything that can be described as an inconsistent vape on the battery's end, as much as possible (for my experience-level/price range.)

Having a weaker vape as the battery goes along is fine with me - all you do is amp the power just a tad - but if this drainage or any other factors would ironically cause a vape to either vape hotter or would really change the umph of a flavor no matter at what voltage, that's all I'm trying to avoid right off the bat.

But as always, I guess I can't expect perfection (or truly even try to look into it all) if in the end, I'm trying to go with something simple and with a bunch of fancy LCD gadgets! lol.

 

[Asbestos4004]

Nope, nobody knows that. Best you contact the vendor. Sounds like you have a pretty good grip on it now. See ya GN, and good luck with it all. It's been a lot of fun.

As Phil says,,,"the safest way to vape is not to vape at all,"

 

[catalinaflyer]

I'm only going to answer this part of your post because you have over-analyzed the rest of it to the point where I fell like I need a drink. I'm done trying to help, there's absolutely nothing more I can add and I don't need to become an alcoholic.

Oh, btw, does the Spinner have a DNA20 chip - looks like we're getting down to real business with that type of question.

I highly doubt the spinner has the DNA20 chip, the chip is physically larger than the whole spinner.

GoodNews! I really hope someday you find your Chi (and I don't mean Chi-You) I'm done, finished, outa here.

 

[Asbestos4004]

Spinners use the DNA 90 chip. They're even better.
*following catalinaflyer back to the penalty box

 

[TXSundevil]

Okay, one more go at a couple unanswered questions on the MVP 2.0 for you, and a follow up comment about using the usb on the PC, in relation to the MVP specificly as it is the only one I do this with. IF you are low on charge, vaping at your PC and wish to use that feature, no danger here, as with any battery I would not leave it unattended and more so on your PC in my opinion becuse of what a previous user mentioned.

As far as the wall charger, GoodNews!, the usb adapter the MVP comes with is as others described, one of those 3 prong usb/mini usb deals. I plug mine directly into the wall wart portion which I got with my Ego, it is rated exactly the same as the spinner one you mentioned, and is within the manufacturers specs. The MVP does have an over charge protection as well, which it sounds like you'll be happy to hear, when it hits a full charge it actually shuts itself off, I would still never leave unattended, or on the charger for a prolonged amount of time when it shuts off, but it does have that function.

Last comment, and personal insight on the VW thing for ya GoodNews!....I have a couple of flavors I love to vape at 8 watts, no matter what device I use or what topper I choose, these particular juices taste good in that range, so for that situation, I love VW mode. I set it to 8 watts, it reads my ohms and applies the proper voltage, should I choose another topper and I like that juice at that range, I plug it in, if the ohms are different...no biggie it adjusts. Those adjustments can be off a bit from time to time but in general it gives the vape I am looking for. When I like to be more hands on or feel that I want more control, or something does not seem right in VW mode, I switch to VV and make my own calculations. Thats the beauty of the feature, it's there if you like it, or need it.....totally not a MUST use thing. These days I tend to use VV on about everything as I like the finer adjustments and have been vaping long enough with RDA's and RBA's that I know my voltages for the coils I wrap pretty much by heart. Again, good luck....if your missing anything else you'd like to know just throw up a flag. Good luck!

 

[GoodNews!]

I just tend to overthink things because the predominant experience has been that my vape has always been way too hot - if it was always not hot enough for my preference, that would have made perfect sense on a Spinner from day one, and I would have never looked into anything at all.

I just went into vaping from day #1 expecting "not enough power" to be my issue, I never once dreamed in my life that my issue would be "too hot a vape." I think anyone would be downright confused and perplexed if that was the consistent problem.

Will be ordering the MVP2, I guess, since it is cheapest. If I find anything that needs to be improved, I'll master the art of high-ohm RDA's to a standard point, and then dip my toes into lower ohms from there! This journey is all about improvement after all, and price wise, I do have to do it pretty low, I guess.

Oh, just so that no one feels like I didn't listen to their advice, buying a Provari second hand is probably the best recommendation actually, I totally agree - the only thing is, if I buy a Provari, without a doubt I want to get the Provari insurance - no doubt about it, I'd be the guy where something just funks up with my Vari!

Great post btw Texas - makes good sense what you say about the charging! I will go ahead and trust that information! Good little tip about not leaving it in the computer to long! If anyone does have any negative experiences or facts to add to that, as always, love to hear it.

 

[FearTX]

The MVP from 101vape is the real deal. Mine is almost 3 month old. I change toppers out quite a bit and vape heavily so it gets a lot of use.
I have never plugged it in to a computer USB port. I have charged it off of, the wall charger for EGO batteries (pass through ones) one that came with an old phone, the bigger ipad wall wart, the iphone wall wart and some cheap 2 usb outlet car charger thingy.
I did not like the iClear30 that came with it, you might. I highly doubt it you do not like any clearo. I use it with clearos, RDAs, RBAs....

If you enter in to view the voltage output setting you are in VV mode, if you enter in to view the VW setting you are in VW mode. You can have them set independently, but only one mode will be active, the last one viewed. It is a solid well built Chinese device that you will have to throw away some day. For what it costs and does it is worth it.

It gets used almost as much as my Provari, I like to use the heavier Kayfun/Taifun etc on it or my mechs.

It will check your resistance for you, it will not let you fire something it will not like. It will charge your phone or your VV3 for you.

101vape.com MVP2 is a good deal.

I am not biting on any other part of your posts in this thread

 

[FearTX]

I forgot to add the fact that my phone has the same MAH the MVP does. I have never not charged it over night, I charge my MVP over night on the sink right next to my phone and tooth brush.

I like living on the edge, I also eat and swim directly afterwards.

Edit: I forgot to add that I have not charged it on a computer USB port because I can buy 25 MVP2s for what my cheapest computer cost. Not because I am scared of the MVP2 I do not want it burning out a USB port.

 

[GoodNews!]

That's where I was a little weary of blending chargers, even the ones on vaping websites - my Iphone charger has totally different electricity specifics than my Spinner charger , and I believe I've seen vaping chargers have some various specifics as well.

Not sure if my phone has the same mah as the iTaste might, but lol that's interesting that both the battery and the phone ended up having the same mah's lol.

Excited for MVP2 vaping! I actually think I'll like the box form of battery, I've always had an emotional attachment to the Spinner because the Spinner is indeed the coolest looking battery in the stick field, with a cross-etched twist knob that has a notch for every volt, easy to twist, reads the numbers left to right the right just like the the english language (I hate the VV Ego's for that lol!), and the rubber grip is so much better in the hand than slick plastic.

The Spinners have the best LED button too, it "clicks" just right. Overall, no doubt about it, the Spinners are well built stick batteries in the field, I've had no real provable issue out of mine and they have a great form factor.

Oh, one issue though is the threads. Those threads do wear out fast, even with very gentle care. I've found that most devices end up being slightly too tight for the Spinner, which wears the threads out even quicker. Then, you go from super-tight, to super-loose, and it's kinda annoying.

 

[FearTX]

That's where I was a little weary of blending chargers - my Iphone charger has totally different electricity specifics than my Spinner charger

It will just take longer to charge.

 

[FearTX]

Not sure if my phone has the same mah as the iTaste might, but lol that's interesting that both the battery and the phone ended up having the same mah's lol.

I tihnk the iphone is 1440 or 1400, something like that. My extended battery for the work phone is 2500 mah.

 

[PLANofMAN]

Oh, just so that no one feels like I didn't listen to their advice, buying a Provari second hand is probably the best recommendation actually, I totally agree - the only thing is, if I buy a Provari, without a doubt I want to get the Provari insurance - no doubt about it, I'd be the guy where something just funks up with my Vari!

Congratulations. You dragged me back into this thread.
ProVape has standard prices they charge for both repairs and upgrades. The most expensive is replacement of the entire circuit board at $60. It goes without saying that I've never heard of someone actually having to pay for that. In fact, ProVape often repairs ProVari's free of charge, whether it's under warranty or not.

Thier reputation for excellent customer service is unmatched in the industry.

Edit: To clarify, I've only heard of one person having to get the board replaced, and that was under warranty. It is almost impossible to break a ProVari, but if you do, it will usually cost between $20-$40 to get it fixed, if they charge you for fixing it at all. I think they have some kind of an unwritten policy, if someone sends something in to be fixed, if ProVape considers it a manufacturing defect, it gets fixed for free.

I don't know. I bought mine used. It had been previously owned for 2 years, and I've owned it for a year. There are not many regulated mods that are still in perfect working condition after 6 months, let alone 3 years.

I'm still recommending that you pick up the MVP first, though. If nothing else, it will make a good backup device if (or when) you do buy a ProVari.

There's a rumor going around that Evolv (maker of the DNA20 chip) and Provape (maker of the ProVari) are working on a project together. There's really only two possibilities that can happen there. Either ProVape is helping Evolv redesign the Darwin mod, or Evolv is helping ProVape develop a VV/VW ProVari. I don't know if this rumor is true, and I personally wouldn't wait on buying a ProVari even if it was true, but that's just me. I can't make up your mind for you.

 

[sawlight]

Congratulations. You dragged me back into this thread.
ProVape has standard prices they charge for both repairs and upgrades. The most expensive is replacement of the entire circuit board at $60. It goes without saying that I've never heard of someone actually having to pay for that. In fact, ProVape often repairs ProVari's free of charge, whether it's under warranty or not.

Thier reputation for excellent customer service is unmatched in the industry.

And with that we walk away, this can't be fixed.

 

[PLANofMAN]

Funk Dracula posted the following in another thread. I haven't quoted it, because I wanted to preserve the impact of the original format. Get ready to LOL:

-----------------------------------------------

OP: "I'm looking to upgrade from _____. My budget is below (insert price usually at least $75-$100 bucks below the cost of a Provari)"

Provarinati #1 (usually within post #3): "Get a Provari."

MVP/Zmax/SID/SVD/VTR/VAMO owner: "Provari's are over-rated."

Provarinati #2: "Typical. EVERYTIME the haters just HAVE to chime in. Let them, they are just jealous and envious. Warranty, solid, USA USA USA, warranty, USA. You just don't get it 'till you hold it. People be hating."

Provarinati #3: "My Provari turned water into wine. Warranty, solid, USA USA USA, warranty, USA. You don't understand..."

Provarinati #4: "I thought I couldn't have children, but after I got my Provari I am expecting!!! USA! USA! Warranty, USA!"

MVP/Zmax/SID/SVD/VTR/VAMO owner: "Provari's are over-rated. They don't have VW. The Provari Mini is a $200 700mAh rip-off"

Provarinati #5: "Hater! VW is over-rated!"

Provarinati #6: "700mAh may get you 50% less vape time than a $25.00 1300mAh VV eGo twist, but what your not comprehending is that Provari Mini's are forged from the tears of Chuck Norris. USA!!!"

Provarinati #7: "You don't get it, man. You have to hold it."

OP: "I don't understand..."

 

[FearTX]

Meh haters gonna hate no matter what. For those that need the power the DNA is good, for those that cannot do math DNA is good. Most of the other VW mods are limited in power to what their VV side if any can do. I own several, still end up using the Provari and MVP2 every day. I am going to get a Coolfire2 sooner or later, because, Grenade.

I point you to this thread for some of the many benefits that a owning a Provari will get you.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ntly-dropped-my-provari-top-skyscraper-2.html