Best battery type combo?

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Bennylava

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I couldn't find a dedicated battery sub forum, so I guess this one will have to do. Maybe I'm just blind, if so then I request a mod please move this to the correct forum for me. But as batteries are a major part of any mod, I figured this may be as good a place as any.

So here are the questions, some unrelated to thread title.

1. Are two 18350's better than 1 18650? I recently saw a youtube vid where a guy was reviewing a mod, and he said that it just works so much better with dual 18350's. As opposed to a single 18650. Why would this be? Could this also be the case, with all other mods?

2. Why are people such fans of those 1600mah AW 18650's? Don't they run out of battery life too fast? My Panasonics are 3400mah, so why wouldn't people just but the (reputable) ones that are the highest mah? I'm a chain vaper, so even my 3400mah Panasonics only last me a little over 1 day's worth of vaping.

3. Why would you choose one coil, over another? Why would someone choose to use a 1.3ohm coil on one build, only to use a 2.5ohm coil on another, different build? What is the purpose of choosing lower or higher ohms?
 

Mohamed

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Edit: VV = variable voltage. VW = variable watts. You can find another thread or ask more on those specifically. It's a common question and thought I should at least clarify abbreviations since you look like a new member.

I couldn't find a dedicated battery sub forum, so I guess this one will have to do. Maybe I'm just blind, if so then I request a mod please move this to the correct forum for me. But as batteries are a major part of any mod, I figured this may be as good a place as any.

So here are the questions, some unrelated to thread title.

1. Are two 18350's better than 1 18650? I recently saw a youtube vid where a guy was reviewing a mod, and he said that it just works so much better with dual 18350's. As opposed to a single 18650. Why would this be? Could this also be the case, with all other mods?

Dual 18350's are running batteries in a series. Look up series vs parallel battery circuitry if really curious. You are effectively doubling the voltage. Given the resistance of your atty is constant you are doubling the hotness and vape. This would probably only affect a mechanical mod and someone correct me if wrong. Most mods that come with circuitry such as vamo or provaria, etc there is no need for this as you control the variable voltage and/or variable watts on your own. So I can really only see this helping in mech mod and maybe when getting into the sub ohm resistance atties.

Side note you run higher risk of battery failure when running Li-Ion batteries in series. The term I have heard is that you are "Marrying" the batteries. Those two batteries can only be used together, should be charged together, and should be alternated from top to bottom each time. Ie if B1 goes in first and B2 goes in second. After charging B2 needs to go in first and B1 goes in second. This is to help balance and the battery life and prevent one from causing a thermal meltdown.

2. Why are people such fans of those 1600mah AW 18650's? Don't they run out of battery life too fast? My Panasonics are 3400mah, so why wouldn't people just but the (reputable) ones that are the highest mah? I'm a chain vaper, so even my 3400mah Panasonics only last me a little over 1 day's worth of vaping.
I'll defer to more knowledgeable poster but the mah is somewhat subjective. Also the AW and IMR can have high drain loads. Meaning they can put out more amps per second without overheating. Some the higher rated mah batteries don't have a high drain rate meaning that they last longer but may not be putting out the required amps you device is requiring at your VV or VW setting.

3. Why would you choose one coil, over another? Why would someone choose to use a 1.3ohm coil on one build, only to use a 2.5ohm coil on another, different build? What is the purpose of choosing lower or higher ohms?

Say you don't have a Variable Voltage VV or Variable Wattage device. Say you just got standard Ego battery. Well the only way to change the heat/vapor amount is to decrease the resistance of your atty. Higher resistance the longer the battery life but the cooler the vape. Lower the resistance the less the battery lasts but the hotter/cloudier the vape.

I bought several different attomizer/tanks when starting out when I only had an ego. After switching to a vamo and also use VV passthrough it probably doesn't matter as much as you can dial in on the "heat" you want. I started with VV but personally have found like VW better. Main reason is I have different tanks with different resistances from my original purchases. VW allows you to choose the "heat" regardless of resistance. The device calculates the resistance of your attached attomizer and puts out the appropriate voltage. When using VV if you change your tanks you have to redial in quite a bit more as you need more volts with higher resistance to equal the same "heat" and need less volts with lower resistance atty to equal the same amount.

VV and VW are really the same thing it's just different roads to the same end goal and I find VW works better for my setup since I have a wide variety of resistance in my atty and tanks. If all of your tanks/atties are same resistance VW will give you probably no benefits as when you switch tanks you don't need to recalculate your voltage...well other than fact that atties can change resistance over time...but still either do the same thing just different calculations and different methods.

Also as for higher vs lower ohm coil. I prefer a stronger throat hit / hotter vape in the morning. So would use a lower resistant coil in the morning. I like a smoother less harsh hit in the evenings so preferred a higher ohm coil during those times. When you start using VV or VW you care not so much about the coil but the voltage or watts. So no more need to change resistance you just push a few buttons up or a few buttons down to get you to where you want to be.

Also with standard ego's they gradually lower in voltage over charge cycle so your vape becomes gradually weaker until you recharge your battery to max.

I'm sure others can help explain better but thought I'd give a stab at your questions.
 
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Myrany

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The 1600 mah AW IMR 18650s have a 30 amp limit where the 2000 mah are only I THINK 10 Amps. FOr people running a regulated device like the Provari or the Vamo (or any number of others) this really isn't going to matter much as you have a limit to how low a Ohm atty the device will fire.

People running Sub Ohm coils on Mech mods NEED the extra Amps for safety reasons.
 

mackman

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The 1600 mah AW IMR 18650s have a 30 amp limit where the 2000 mah are only I THINK 10 Amps. FOr people running a regulated device like the Provari or the Vamo (or any number of others) this really isn't going to matter much as you have a limit to how low a Ohm atty the device will fire.

People running Sub Ohm coils on Mech mods NEED the extra Amps for safety reasons.

24 amp limit
 

RaceGun59

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My Vamo 3 and Vmax have stacked 18350 batteries. Two batteries in series , is double the voltage. The electronics see the higher input voltage and regulates the voltage down instead of boosting(bucking) the voltage up. When running stacked 18350 the shut off circuit kicks in at around 6.7 V, that's about 3.35 volts per battery. Above the suggected lowest discharge limit of 3.2 volts. You have to use care when stacking. I pair up new batteries and mark them. I "marry that pair". They are always used together. Using a single 18650 in my Vamo 3 I would get 10-12 hours vaping. Stacked 18350s I get 26-28 hours. Stacking isn't for everyone.
 
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Thrasher

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one thing not considered much is the actual voltage drop or droop when power is applied to the battery Mah wont matter much if the battery drops .4volts under load and the mod shuts off at 3.2v and the actual charge of the battery is still 3.6v when you pull it out to charge it. you loose a lot of those MAH's from the battery resistance being to inefficient.

in this respect, when you are approaching 5 amps and higher draw the AW 1600mah still has one of the lowest voltage drops meaning in practical applications it will seem to last just as long as a 2800mah with a .4v drop.
 

Bennylava

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Thanks for all the help everyone. Is it currently known, which battery has the highest real world mah, while still holding its voltage the best? My guess is its probably those AW's. That would explain why they are so popular. It takes my panasonic 3400mah's a little over a day's worth of chain vaping to give out. But there is a very steady voltage drop the whole time, until they get down to 3.1 and then its game over. Perhaps if I got the AW 2000mah's, the voltage would stay higher right up until the end? Or like one member said above, with VW's it really doesn't matter.

My vape doesn't seem to noticeably suffer until about the last 10 hits. At that point, I can tell that its about time to change the battery.
 

Mohamed

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Thanks for all the help everyone. Is it currently known, which battery has the highest real world mah, while still holding its voltage the best? My guess is its probably those AW's. That would explain why they are so popular. It takes my panasonic 3400mah's a little over a day's worth of chain vaping to give out. But there is a very steady voltage drop the whole time, until they get down to 3.1 and then its game over. Perhaps if I got the AW 2000mah's, the voltage would stay higher right up until the end? Or like one member said above, with VW's it really doesn't matter.

My vape doesn't seem to noticeably suffer until about the last 10 hits. At that point, I can tell that its about time to change the battery.

Did you get your questions answered? If you are only suffering on last 10 "hits" that's the voltage drop...depending on battery that go from 4.2 to 3.0 something. So if you are not using a VV or VW your throat hit will decrease over time as the voltage of your battery drops.
 

Funk Dracula

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For the love of god please do not stack two 18350's in a mech unless you have a standard resistance coil in the topper > 2Ω.

Erase the suggestion and thought from stacking batteries in a mech from your head, man.

It made sense before regulated devices came along to get more out of a standard resistance topper on an unregulated device, but doesn't now a days with rebuidables.

The only safety device in a mechanical mod, is YOU.
 

Stosh

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For the love of god please do not stack two 18350's in a mech unless you have a standard resistance coil in the topper > 2Ω.

Erase the suggestion and thought from stacking batteries in a mech from your head, man.

It made sense before regulated devices came along to get more out of a standard resistance topper on an unregulated device, but doesn't now a days with rebuidables.

The only safety device in a mechanical mod, is YOU.

Stacking batteries in a mech should never be done, it's an advanced technique that is no longer necessary!! In the bad old days of vaping when VV and VW were very rare and expensive or available if you built it yourself, stacking was done to be able to run 3.0 - 5.0 ohm attys.

From what I read, very few vapers ever run high ohm builds, it's a shame as they are missing some good vape, and it can be done very safely on a VV mod with a single 18650 high drain. If a 18650 in a VV / VW mod doesn't last you a day, or at least until you get home to swap batteries, you need to put the PV down once in a while!!!! :laugh:
That's right drop the PV, back away slowly, keep your hands where we can see them and nobody get hurt....:laugh::laugh:
 

DaveP

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There's more than just preference in type, I guess. I'm married to 4 AW 18650 2000mah lMR's that I have been rotating daily for over a year and a half. When they finally die, I will probably try some Panasonic 3400mah batts. AW batts (the cells inside) reportedly are made by Sanyo and Panasonic anyway.

I get early morning until late afternoon out of one AW 18650. Then I pop another in and that gets me through the night and into the next morning. So, two of my batts get to rest for a day between uses. I don't know how long they will continue to do that, but I'm getting my money's worth out of the four that I have. The life is about the same whether I use them in my Provari or my Sigelei Zmax V3 telescope.

The other reason I like 18650 is that I only have to carry one extra if I go out. I also don't have to worry about whether they are equally charged to prevent rapid discharge accidents. The Sigelei telescope will take several types and combinations of batts. We all tend to stay with the ones that we know work.

I'll always stick with a one battery solution in vaping. To my knowledge, the only mods that have gone into runaway, spew, and meltdown have been multiple battery applications. That was attributed to using unequally charged batts together in a mod. When one batt is significantly lower in charge than the other, they tend to reverse charge toward equalization of the two. Parallel cells are more likely to do that than series cells. I just don't want anything like that near my face ...
 
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