Best mechanical mods
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What topper are you using that you need more power? If you are using something like a carto or clearo tank, then you need:
Evolv Kick 2
Evolv Kick 2
I agree with the above post. Its all in the topper now, the k100 has a excellent reputation for its voltage drop. Mine has a .03 voltage drop not sanded down with good, fully charged batteries.
i am running a micro dragon coil at .94 ohms and it isn't heating as quickly as i would like and was wondering if my mod was affecting it
I'm sure you have some voltage drop with a .94 ohm coil. What kind of battery are you using? 28 gauge wire?
yes 28. efest 2000 mah high drain. but i am confused about what voltage drop is exactly
yes 28. efest 2000 mah high drain. but i am confused about what voltage drop is exactly
+1 for the kick 2.
I was running straight mechanical for a while but the vapor and flavor is stronger and more consistent with a kick even as the atomizer gets older. The annoying thing about straight mechanical is that you need to constantly swap batteries to keep the same vape going. Inevitably as the batt drains the vapor changes.
If you run lower resistant coils (make sure you know what you are doing before going down this road) you can get more vapor, flavor and such.
For me the kick has been a great addition to my tool box. I've been using them on my magneto and reo and am very happy.
In addition there are some safety advantages to having a circuit that cuts off if there is a short. -> this is a good thing.
Dudley
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Poldiac is legendary hard hitter for about 200. Sigelei 8w is way cheaper and hits very well. Hope that helps
Sent from my Note II using Tapatalk
Sent from my Note II using Tapatalk
I like the Magneto using a .7 sub ohm coil. If you want to use the Kick with the Magneto, you would have to use a smaller battery like an 18490 or 18500 since the Magneto does not telescope long enough for an 18650 plus Kick.
I have been trying to figure out a way around this...by adding extra tube parts to the Magneto to make it longer. I was looking at these tubes here.
The last item at the bottom of the link are after market tubes. I think they could/might be added to the Magneto to make it longer. I emailed them and they didn't know if the pitch of the threads were the same as the Magneto. But they did tell me that the tubes are stainless steel. I haven't taken the plunge yet to find out if they fit. But for 13 bucks, I think it might be worth it. And even if it didn't fit, they also have caps you can order that will fit to make yourself a whole new mech mod.
I have been trying to figure out a way around this...by adding extra tube parts to the Magneto to make it longer. I was looking at these tubes here.
The last item at the bottom of the link are after market tubes. I think they could/might be added to the Magneto to make it longer. I emailed them and they didn't know if the pitch of the threads were the same as the Magneto. But they did tell me that the tubes are stainless steel. I haven't taken the plunge yet to find out if they fit. But for 13 bucks, I think it might be worth it. And even if it didn't fit, they also have caps you can order that will fit to make yourself a whole new mech mod.
When it comes to mechanical mods, there are really only two ways to get "more power" to the coil, better batteries and better conductivity. A mod with silver plated contacts using high quality Sony, Panasonic, MNKE, etc batteries is all you can really do. If you are referring to wattage, when you say you want more power, you controll wattage on a mech by lowering your coil resistance;
So, if you have a target wattage in mind, say 20w and you know that (under load) your mod can deliver 3.4 volts you leave the resistance a variable and use some algibra foo to solve for R:
3.42=11.56 thus 11.56/R=20
multiply both sides by R giving you 11.56=20R
divide both sides by 20 (11.56/20) = 0.578ohms
wrap a 6 ohm coil and on a fresh battery you should be pretty dog-gone close to 20w. Over time your battery will loose some of it's charge and thus you'll not be able to stay at 20w constantly without some form of regulation device like a kick (no kicks I know of can go that high) or a variable wattage or variable voltage device. only a few VV/VW devices can support sub-ohm coils, so you make a coil that will work on the device, say 1.5 ohm, substitute that new resistance into your algebra-foo to find the target voltage you'll need. if you use a variable wattage device, it's as easy as dialing in the wattage you want, and it will adjust the voltage based on the detected resistance.
hope this wasn't overly technical.
P.S. I find that there is a slightly larger voltage drop in telescopic mods, but this is only one man's experience. If you know that you'll always be using 18650 batteries, I recommend getting a mod that is sized only for that battery to avoid the voltage penalty created by the threading in the outer sleeve of the mod (this is the part that acts as the ground). Conductivity in your positive lead is important, but a good negative connection is as well.
W=V2/R
So, if you have a target wattage in mind, say 20w and you know that (under load) your mod can deliver 3.4 volts you leave the resistance a variable and use some algibra foo to solve for R:
3.42=11.56 thus 11.56/R=20
multiply both sides by R giving you 11.56=20R
divide both sides by 20 (11.56/20) = 0.578ohms
wrap a 6 ohm coil and on a fresh battery you should be pretty dog-gone close to 20w. Over time your battery will loose some of it's charge and thus you'll not be able to stay at 20w constantly without some form of regulation device like a kick (no kicks I know of can go that high) or a variable wattage or variable voltage device. only a few VV/VW devices can support sub-ohm coils, so you make a coil that will work on the device, say 1.5 ohm, substitute that new resistance into your algebra-foo to find the target voltage you'll need. if you use a variable wattage device, it's as easy as dialing in the wattage you want, and it will adjust the voltage based on the detected resistance.
hope this wasn't overly technical.
P.S. I find that there is a slightly larger voltage drop in telescopic mods, but this is only one man's experience. If you know that you'll always be using 18650 batteries, I recommend getting a mod that is sized only for that battery to avoid the voltage penalty created by the threading in the outer sleeve of the mod (this is the part that acts as the ground). Conductivity in your positive lead is important, but a good negative connection is as well.
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The tubes and parts from the natural fit the magneto !!!
You can make a bottom switch natural by adding the natural tubes and top cap to the magneto base ! You can run all three tubes and the top cap to get an 18650 kicked magneto
You can make a bottom switch natural by adding the natural tubes and top cap to the magneto base ! You can run all three tubes and the top cap to get an 18650 kicked magneto
I have a natural 18500 tube and a natural top cap that i use on my magneto base to make a sweet solid form 18650 mechanical. With the fogger on top it loojs amazing !!
I've read this before. But I don't like the bottom button switch on the Natural. I'd rather have the bottom button from the Magneto.
Higher conductivity metals is less important than large contact surface area.
Some switch designs offer minimal contact area which leads to excessive voltage drop.
One reason my Chemisises have better voltage drop numbers than my other mods is the switch post contact area is much larger. Brass Chemy and SS Chemy have identical load voltage drop according to my DMM.
My hot spring mod has worse voltage drop. I suspect spring is limiting flow.
Firing pins need large surface area that actually touch batt terminals. Large area useless if not square w/ batt terminals.
Some switch designs offer minimal contact area which leads to excessive voltage drop.
One reason my Chemisises have better voltage drop numbers than my other mods is the switch post contact area is much larger. Brass Chemy and SS Chemy have identical load voltage drop according to my DMM.
My hot spring mod has worse voltage drop. I suspect spring is limiting flow.
Firing pins need large surface area that actually touch batt terminals. Large area useless if not square w/ batt terminals.
These show pretty good numbers for a clone.
ElectronicStix.Com · Brass Chi you Mechanical Mod by HCigar
BUT, I'll bet my bottom dollar that different coil designs will be the fix you are looking for.
ElectronicStix.Com · Brass Chi you Mechanical Mod by HCigar
BUT, I'll bet my bottom dollar that different coil designs will be the fix you are looking for.
Im looking into the magneto myself as a starter mech. love how active these forums are SOOOOO much info now to save some money to put it all together and get of the eGo. But its way better that the damn Blu I was dumb enough to let eat a whole through my pocket.
Oh and a quick question what verion of magneto are you all using? I've heard there are a few different kinds. Hcigar etc.
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