Ok so I mitakenly bought a mvp 2.0 to upgrade from my clk 1280 but no upgrade potential and no extra power so been lookin at either, IPV2 50 WATT, sigelei 50 WATT, smok Xpro BT50 50 watt, or an e-leaf i-stick 50, I really wanna make the right decision but can't decide, I want the ability to upgrade power and possibility of building my own later on and with fair battery and good build quality any help appriciated
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I have an IPV2 50 and it works well. The thing that i notice is that it is so light. Has a replaceable battery and a USB port. It is 8-10 months old, I am happy.
As to the models, if you go to the APVB sub-forum, they probably have an owners thread, or, you can serach in the search bar in the upper right.
Hope helps
As to the models, if you go to the APVB sub-forum, they probably have an owners thread, or, you can serach in the search bar in the upper right.
Hope helps
I would personally choose one with replaceable batteries. Also, the iStick50w does have some patchy history, so best buy from a domestic vendor (not China).
The first two (IPV vs Sigelei) would be my choice. I just bottled buying a Smok 50 (65w upgrade) as I found some horror stories.
The first two (IPV vs Sigelei) would be my choice. I just bottled buying a Smok 50 (65w upgrade) as I found some horror stories.
I like my istick 50w but i have not tested some of the other devices. The istick has built in batteries so when they come to the end of its life im not sure if they could be replaced. This could be a down side but it also means you don't have to buy batteries and a charger which adds cost to the others if you don't already have them.
I use two units... The Sigeli 100w and the Cloupor mini. Both have the ability to go .5 ohms for the subtank, and both have replaceable batteries, which is a great option to just swap batteries and charge the older ones instead of having to wait for your unit to charge, or be tethered to a cord.
The Cloupor mini is as small as an Istick 20, has a replaceable battery, and can be charged via a usb cable. It's a good "on the go" device. The only downsides, are the battery compartment does seem to come off just a bit too easy, and a .8 second delay from power off to puffing, and the center positive pin is not spring loaded or reverse threaded. which means that if you over tighten the atomizer, you're pushing the pin deeper in.... Neither of these issues are major gripes, and I've been pleased with it.
The Sigeli 100W I have is a first edition. It does not have a spring loaded center pin, but it does have a reverse threaded center pin. I personally don't like the spring loaded pins, but it seems people had issues with not remembering, and ruining the center pin. It hasn't been an issue with me, and I'm still on the original pin 6 months later. Mine has the option to screw on the battery cover, but I never use the screws. Luckily, mine came with a panel sticker to hide the holes. The newer versions of the Sigelis seemed to have improved on my design. They elimitanted the screw holes and replaced with even more magnets.. which will not come off unintentionally. They use a spring loaded center pin, which seems to be better for most people. They also streamlined the box.
I did have an Istick 20, and I'm glad I switched to the cloupor. The Istick 20 is still a nice device, but to me, I wanted a replaceable battery. The Istick 20 I had was rock solid performer. The istick 50's have had issues with "constant firing", but I believe they have fixed it since then. I'd still be leary since there's no way to test to see if yours will constantly fire or not... so, it's risky in my opinion.
The Cloupor mini is as small as an Istick 20, has a replaceable battery, and can be charged via a usb cable. It's a good "on the go" device. The only downsides, are the battery compartment does seem to come off just a bit too easy, and a .8 second delay from power off to puffing, and the center positive pin is not spring loaded or reverse threaded. which means that if you over tighten the atomizer, you're pushing the pin deeper in.... Neither of these issues are major gripes, and I've been pleased with it.
The Sigeli 100W I have is a first edition. It does not have a spring loaded center pin, but it does have a reverse threaded center pin. I personally don't like the spring loaded pins, but it seems people had issues with not remembering, and ruining the center pin. It hasn't been an issue with me, and I'm still on the original pin 6 months later. Mine has the option to screw on the battery cover, but I never use the screws. Luckily, mine came with a panel sticker to hide the holes. The newer versions of the Sigelis seemed to have improved on my design. They elimitanted the screw holes and replaced with even more magnets.. which will not come off unintentionally. They use a spring loaded center pin, which seems to be better for most people. They also streamlined the box.
I did have an Istick 20, and I'm glad I switched to the cloupor. The Istick 20 is still a nice device, but to me, I wanted a replaceable battery. The Istick 20 I had was rock solid performer. The istick 50's have had issues with "constant firing", but I believe they have fixed it since then. I'd still be leary since there's no way to test to see if yours will constantly fire or not... so, it's risky in my opinion.
They do all come with batteries and seemed like they could all be charged in the unit, i may be wrong, im buying from local store so will be ok but the problem I'm having is everytime I think one looks good I find someone who has got a shabby one but want it to be reliable or with easily fixable minor issues and with the ability to build and produce clouds in the future but they all seem the same
The thing a lot of people miss these days is the physics of vaping. How many watts you need is entirely dependent upon how you build your coils. If you never build dual coils (or more than two) you will probably never use more than 35 watts. For instance, a .5 ohm coil will draw 35.28 watts from a fresh 4.2 volt battery. Giving that coil all 35 might start tasting foul. As far as subohming goes, that is a good safe resistance which produces lots of vapor and a sticky warm vape.
I run 0.8 duals sometimes and find that I almost never go over 32 watts.
So how much wattage you need depends on how you vape. More watts isn't the only thing you should base your decision on really.
So how many coils do you build? At what resistance? Do you prefer box shaped mods or tube mods?
Without knowing these things it is difficult to give a great recommendation. However, the DNA 40 mods come in all various factors and will also allow you to do temp protection....no more nasty burnt taste. And there are pre-packaged coils for them now, so you don't need to stress the nickel build.
Bottom line though is how do you like to vape and what is most important to you, taste? vapor production? safety? reliability?
I will agree with those who have said it is better to have a mod with uses replaceable batteries.
I run 0.8 duals sometimes and find that I almost never go over 32 watts.
So how much wattage you need depends on how you vape. More watts isn't the only thing you should base your decision on really.
So how many coils do you build? At what resistance? Do you prefer box shaped mods or tube mods?
Without knowing these things it is difficult to give a great recommendation. However, the DNA 40 mods come in all various factors and will also allow you to do temp protection....no more nasty burnt taste. And there are pre-packaged coils for them now, so you don't need to stress the nickel build.
Bottom line though is how do you like to vape and what is most important to you, taste? vapor production? safety? reliability?
I will agree with those who have said it is better to have a mod with uses replaceable batteries.
Personally I would go for the Smok XPro 50. I had the XPro M65 and found it to be a great device! Reliable, and for the price the quality is fantastic! I've used a lot of devices in my time and that is definitely in my top ten! 
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To be honest don't build coils but want to be able to without buying another mod and I was hoping to find something that is safe, reliable, with clouds and taste, I thought safe is just build it well and know what your doing and likewise with reliable and course want the box to be reliable and my local shop does not sell the dna, I was not bothered about box or pen but heard it's more battery and power in most cases and battery is quite important, I will be using my standard nautilus mini on it to start with or my mini protank 3 but will build in future when I know more so want to have one that can do it when I have the ability if that makes sense
The reason I mentioned those was my local shop has them but they are the most powerful ones they sell but cos I'm swapping the one I have I have to buy it from there so options are bit limited they are the only 50watt ones and all are withing budget
I had my sigelei 50w for about a month and a half and love this thing. I upgraded from an istick 20w and thought that since the sigelei is a replaceable battery that it would be a pain to always change out the battery but it's actually not bad. One battery lasts me about the whole day and I bought a separate charger so I can charge my battery while still being able to use my mod. If your looking for a replaceable battery mod, I'd recommend the sigelei.
Seems alot of people like the changeable batteries, I think there is only one of the mods I mentioned that is not changeable but long as it lasts the day then I can charge it overnight, I think from what I have heard they are all very similar but guess I just want a reliable mod that will be able to use build coils when I start to, battery and what age are all pretty much the same but how important is the ohms when you start to build as some go slightly lower than others if that makes a difference?
Another option to consider is a temperature controlled device. I have an SX Mini "M" and it will run anything I use to top it with from a dual coil RDA at 0.5 ohm, (it will go lower, I just choose not to) to any RTA, (I use a Kayfun V4 at 1.4 ohm) or any popular pre-built tank system. If you choose to use Ni200 wire you can run it in TC mode and never have another dry hit or scorched wick again. It uses 18650 batteries. Costs a bit more, (around $200.00) but that's only a few bottles of juice more than you are prepared to spend.
Please do not charge any batteries over night, always charge when and where you can keep an eye on what is going on. Seems like most battery failures happen while charging. Not saying it will happen, (been vaping 3 years and not have one fail) but any battery can fail
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