Best tanks that won't melt from certain juices?

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Logan108

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Hey guys, I recently got A 30ML bottle of Thug juice from Mt Baker Vapor only to realize that I'll need a tank that isn't plastic to vape it, so my question is what would be the best tank that won't crack or melt with certain juices but is also not to expensive and I want a rebuildable one but not to complicated any information helps! Thanks


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DingerCPA

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I'd gotten some Thug Juice from MBV over the summer. I was able to get through the entire 15mL with my EVODs, but I certainly didn't chain vape it. I've retired all my EVODs and have moved on to PT2s (with airflow bases) and a couple of Nautiluses. I've only had two EVODs crack on me since I've started using them, and I've run all kinds of stuff through them. However, not a practice I'll continue. Glass for just about everything now.
 

Logan108

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I have one. Doesn't seem to hold as much juice as the EVODs, but that it's glass is good. What will you be running it on?

I currently have a spinner 900 but May be getting a MVP 2.0 around February and the only part that confuses me is the replaceable 510 drip tip what does that mean?


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DingerCPA

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The mini PT2 will be great on the spinner (and on the MVP!)

"Replaceable drip tip" means that the mouthpiece (which is SS) can be replaced with pretty much any other "510" drip tip. If you prefer a glass tip or an acrylic or brass or whatever. Just pop the tip out and put something else in.

Google "drip tip" and check out some of the pictures. There are some "interesting" tips that one can acquire ;)
 

Logan108

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The mini PT2 will be great on the spinner (and on the MVP!)

"Replaceable drip tip" means that the mouthpiece (which is SS) can be replaced with pretty much any other "510" drip tip. If you prefer a glass tip or an acrylic or brass or whatever. Just pop the tip out and put something else in.

Google "drip tip" and check out some of the pictures. There are some "interesting" tips that one can acquire ;)

See that's what I thought but I figured I'd ask to make 100 percent sure! So on an average use what has to be replaced in these?


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DingerCPA

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The coil is the consumable. Depending on how much you vape and what type of juice, you might need a new coil every couple of days or so. Google "dry burn kanger coil" or something like that. Lots of info on extending life (I'm not at computer or I'd get you a couple of links)

Consider multiple coils so you can soak one overnight in a bit of vodka and rotate with different coil. You can rebuild those. Click my blog counter. Intro to rebuilding. How I learned. However, do NOT venture into rebuilding until you are familiar with ohms law. You need to understand how to do this safely for your device.

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Logan108

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The coil is the consumable. Depending on how much you vape and what type of juice, you might need a new coil every couple of days or so. Google "dry burn kanger coil" or something like that. Lots of info on extending life (I'm not at computer or I'd get you a couple of links)

Consider multiple coils so you can soak one overnight in a bit of vodka and rotate with different coil. You can rebuild those. Click my blog counter. Intro to rebuilding. How I learned. However, do NOT venture into rebuilding until you are familiar with ohms law. You need to understand how to do this safely for your device.

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Okay! I know currently I've heard rather good reviews about the mini protank 2 but nothing but hate for the 3 haha


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DingerCPA

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If you can pay a little more you can get a mini nautilus which is great. I use mine on an istick but it would be great on an mvp too. Another decent more affordable option would be the Genitank Mini or Genitank by Kanger that way you can get adjustable airflow with you tank like the mini nautilus.
These would go great on mvp

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Susan~S

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If you are going to get a mini Protank I also would recommend you pick up a KangerTech Mini Aerotank Base

Aerotank Base (Mini).jpg
 

drunkenbatman

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100% endorse the mini-protank 2 for this, though with the MVP you're going to want to be really careful about over-tightening or over time you'll have issues making a connection. I'm also going to respectfully disagree with Susan about the mini-base, for two reasons:

1. You can use any generation of the aerotank/air control bases from the protanks with the mini, for cheaper. It looks a little like a rocketship with the wider base, but it gives you a 510 connection for when/if the mvp has connection issues.

2. I've had some terrible experiences with sun-vapers and can't send anyone their way anymore; just too shady and not down with counterfeit product.

Otherwise, it's up your alley. Highly rebuildable, from standard coils to learning to do microcoils with cotton and such.
 
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Frenchfry1942

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The MVP2 is getting some age, and others are available or becoming available. I would consider getting something the goes to 15 or 20 watts. It will give you more flexibility.

For Christmas, the IPV Mini or a MVP 20W are just coming out. The MVP 20W is very similar to the MVP2 but it goes up to 20 watts. The reputation of the MVP2 is really good and the MVP 20W uses the same features. The MVP 20W came out for the holiday gift giving and as a temporary response to others on the market. The MVP3 is also scheduled to be out for Christmas, but is running behind. I suspect it will be out for Valentine's day.

There are others, too. But, seeing as you are waiting until February it gives you time to make comparisons that best support your vaping.

Just thoughts. Hope helps.
 

drunkenbatman

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I generally agree with Frenchfry1942 (and am a big fan of his work; his being killed off on Sons of Anarchy bummed me out even if it made sense for the plot and keep hoping for a Hellboy 3) with one caveat: that you are still looking at the MVP in a few months, or make sure that the other models that are out can fire correctly down at 3.3V.

A lot of the cheaper 20-30W boxes you'll be pointed to will say 3.3V, but are actually firing at 4V. In the older (and in my case, preferred) style tanks that are more reduildable, this will just burn and cause dry-hits. You can work around it by building cotton micro-coils and such, but still. All the sneak-peaks of the 20W focus on it firing at up to 7V now, but no one's double-checked that it's still doing 3.3V correctly though there's no real reason to think it wouldn't.
 
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