If I can do it, you will have it down in no time
. Once you get it going you will be able to repeat the process with ease. <3
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If I can do it, you will have it down in no time
. Once you get it going you will be able to repeat the process with ease. <3
Ok the AGI.
It seems like a solid quality device. The draw on mine is not as tight as the mt3 I have nor as loose as my raven but it does whistle a little bit now and then.
In dripper mode the little screws to use in the fill the fill hole and wick hole do leak a little bit - the screws dont fit tight enough to create a good seal. One way to fix this migh be rubber plugs or perhaps using more than one of the little allen screws in each hole - perhaps one from the top and one from the bottom maybe even with a small little rubber plug in between them so when you tightened the 2 screws together it would squish between them creating a secure seal and keeping the screws from possibly unscrewing themselves from vibration (which prolly isnt a problem but they seem soo loose to me that in might be possible).
In tank mode the fill screw being this loose might be a benifit as it could possibly be letting some air in the tank to help with wicking.
I could not find any mention anywhere of what the mesh that came with it is but I would guess its 500 as it didnt match the 325 or 400 I have and seemed most like the 500 my friend just got. Imho the piece they give you is kind of small. I used the whole piece and it took almost no rolling to get it to the right diameter and the finished wick seemed rather floppy. Fwiw I didnt roll it around anything to leave any kind of hole in the middle but since it was such a small size piece it sure isnt a solid wick by any means and there is a bit of a hollow space in the middle. Seems like it wicks pretty good though.
The included wire appears to be maybe 34 gauge as its smaller than the 32 that I already have. I tried a couple different ways to make the coil as I was also trying to teach someone else how to do it and had some trouble getting it stable. After an hour fussing with it I finally poped the top leg and after redoing it I finally ended up with a 4/3 coil that measures ~2 ohms and the wraps are spaced a bit farther apart then I wanted to get from top to bottom. I could prolly scrunch them a bit closer together but got tired of fooling with it with the smaller wire and decided to just go with it. Taste is ok but the vapor is kind of weak for a 2ohm coil even at ~4.5 volts. Ive been getting more from my raven (2.4 ohm at 4v). I will recoil it with my 32 when I get a chance and that should fix it right up I think. Remember as with all rba devices the vape qualitys are dependant on the coil setup and wick so that not a reflection on the device itself just the results I got with the included material.
The glass tank is a nice touch as i had figured it would come with the plastic one. The ends are nicely polished and its the same size as the aga glass so that should be interchangable. I like that the unit and top cap is nice and smooth without all the lines / grooves all the other similar devices have (aga, igo) and that it has a nice polished finish. But I would have prefered some sort of bevel or something at the top edge of the cap. There is plenty of metal there they could have just put a nice little 45 degree bevel on there which would look nice - though there are lots of people that like the squared edge too.
Oh and I like that the deck is recessed with the lip on it as it keeps any condensation or juice that might be on the deck from running off the edge and down the side whenever you take the cap off.
Thanks again bad for letting me have one of these to try out its a nice piece
It seems like a solid quality device. The draw on mine is not as tight as the mt3 I have nor as loose as my raven but it does whistle a little bit now and then.
In dripper mode the little screws to use in the fill the fill hole and wick hole do leak a little bit - the screws dont fit tight enough to create a good seal. One way to fix this migh be rubber plugs or perhaps using more than one of the little allen screws in each hole - perhaps one from the top and one from the bottom maybe even with a small little rubber plug in between them so when you tightened the 2 screws together it would squish between them creating a secure seal and keeping the screws from possibly unscrewing themselves from vibration (which prolly isnt a problem but they seem soo loose to me that in might be possible).
In tank mode the fill screw being this loose might be a benifit as it could possibly be letting some air in the tank to help with wicking.
I could not find any mention anywhere of what the mesh that came with it is but I would guess its 500 as it didnt match the 325 or 400 I have and seemed most like the 500 my friend just got. Imho the piece they give you is kind of small. I used the whole piece and it took almost no rolling to get it to the right diameter and the finished wick seemed rather floppy. Fwiw I didnt roll it around anything to leave any kind of hole in the middle but since it was such a small size piece it sure isnt a solid wick by any means and there is a bit of a hollow space in the middle. Seems like it wicks pretty good though.
The included wire appears to be maybe 34 gauge as its smaller than the 32 that I already have. I tried a couple different ways to make the coil as I was also trying to teach someone else how to do it and had some trouble getting it stable. After an hour fussing with it I finally poped the top leg and after redoing it I finally ended up with a 4/3 coil that measures ~2 ohms and the wraps are spaced a bit farther apart then I wanted to get from top to bottom. I could prolly scrunch them a bit closer together but got tired of fooling with it with the smaller wire and decided to just go with it. Taste is ok but the vapor is kind of weak for a 2ohm coil even at ~4.5 volts. Ive been getting more from my raven
(2.4 ohm at 4v). I will recoil it with my 32 when I get a chance and that should fix it right up I think. Remember as with all rba devices the vape qualitys are dependant on the coil setup and wick so that not a reflection on the device itself just the results I got with the included material. The glass tank is a nice touch as i had figured it would come with the plastic one. The ends are nicely polished and its the same size as the aga glass so that should be interchangable. I like that the unit and top cap is nice and smooth without all the lines / grooves all the other similar devices have (aga, igo) and that it has a nice polished finish. But I would have prefered some sort of bevel or something at the top edge of the cap. There is plenty of metal there they could have just put a nice little 45 degree bevel on there which would look nice - though there are lots of people that like the squared edge too.
Oh and I like that the deck is recessed with the lip on it as it keeps any condensation or juice that might be on the deck from running off the edge and down the side whenever you take the cap off.
Thanks again bad for letting me have one of these to try out its a nice piece
I'll have to order some more wire my vmax keeps popping the coils. I had the same problem when I rewired my monster mesh. I was using some thin nicrome so I'll order some kanthal and try again. I know its not the mesh as I tried it in dripper mode with the silica wick and got the same results. It is nice and easy to wire. After 10 attempts each with a new coil it should be super easy when the kanthal comes in.
If I can do it, you will have it down in no time
day two.. used new wire that came in the mail.. used a pin to wrap the coil around the wick.. was fugly ..got it connected to the neg and pos posts ... checked the res with DMM at the posts.. kept jumping from 1.2 to 2.4 ohms ..thought that was odd
put it on provari .. it jumped from 1.2 to 2.9 and wouldn't settle
well i said wth . .put some juice in ..and fired it ..lots of vapor .. thought 'yay' .. well about 10 fires in P 0 error .. which i believe means open circuit
took the coil and wick out ..unwound the coil ..was black as hell but still in one piece .. it wasn't touching anything other than the two ends in the posts
guess i'm gonna need lots more practice at this =)
PM me you get frustrated K <3 I'm around (skype too if you have that)
Don't feel bad. After a week with my AGA-T+ I'm still working on my wicks and coils. I've finally got rid of all hotspots and burned-metal tastes from my coils, now I'm working on making better wicks to get the flavor back.
Wicks and coils are more like living things with personalities than basic electronic circuits. Tiny problems with coils touching wicks too much or to little can cause less than excellent vaping or jumping resistances.
I'm just going to keep trying, like all the other genesis pros did. I do get better every time....
I got my agi up and running turns out my coil was shorting on the wick so I did the rolling paper trick except with a tiny piece of napkin. You should offer preoxidized wicks or those little sleeves you put on the wicks so the coil doesn't touch the wick. I have no clue what I was doing wrong on the silica. I'll do a review after I refill it I'm pretty sure I just mixed banana and pomegranate cherry juices. Filled it half way with a siringe which I'm not sure what I had in it then a bottle of Pomegranate cherry.
When I typed this I misspelled pomegranate and the autocorrect word was Michigan
When I typed this I misspelled pomegranate and the autocorrect word was Michigan
AGI first look:
First and foremost, thank you Badkolo and Dannoman for bringing these innovative products and processes to the vape world. Getting your average customers in on the beta testing is brilliant, and I for one am very appreciative for all you do.
Enough schmoozing, on to the tank...
I suppose with a device like the AGI, you can't really review the vape itself, as it is dependent on the user's coil building aptitude. (The exception here would be the draw, which is a little stiff, but not too stiff. I find it a comfortable draw). I will instead look at build quality and ease of use. Although this is my first attemt at a rebuildable, I find that an individual who is mechanically inclined can dive into the rebuildable ocean rather comfortably. As I do not have supplies for rebuilding, (supplies ordered) I have built and will review this tank with only included parts.
I have not attempted the dripper build as of yet. I have wrapped one wick, tank-style.
My first attempt at building a coil uses the included silica wick. I successfully, and rather efficiently, wrapped a silica coil which metered out at 1.6 ohms on my Evic. It does not wick very well. (I don't see this as a shortcoming of the AGI, rather, my fledgeling wick building - I assume one of the wraps is too tight). But the build was not difficult. The lip around the wick platform is somewhat cumbersome to work around, but not much. All terminals are easy to get too, and securing the wire was not problematic.
The build is solid. It's heavy, which some will like and some won't .(I do) I was concerned, at first, with the decision to secure the top cap to the wick platform with o-rings. I would have rather seen a threaded connection, but the o-ring connection secures the top to the base surprisingly well. It can be tightened to the PV with a grasp on the top cover without slipping or twisting. It is quite secure.
I have to say I am very pleased with the decision to include an extra set of o-rings and set screws in the packaging. This is a level of attention many manufacturers overlook, and it is noticeable when you don't overlook it.
Overall, I give the AGI 10/10. It is a well made device, and first appearances say it will last for years to come. Excellent pick up, Gotvapes! Now I need to practice my wick making skills....
First and foremost, thank you Badkolo and Dannoman for bringing these innovative products and processes to the vape world. Getting your average customers in on the beta testing is brilliant, and I for one am very appreciative for all you do.
Enough schmoozing, on to the tank...
I suppose with a device like the AGI, you can't really review the vape itself, as it is dependent on the user's coil building aptitude. (The exception here would be the draw, which is a little stiff, but not too stiff. I find it a comfortable draw). I will instead look at build quality and ease of use. Although this is my first attemt at a rebuildable, I find that an individual who is mechanically inclined can dive into the rebuildable ocean rather comfortably. As I do not have supplies for rebuilding, (supplies ordered) I have built and will review this tank with only included parts.
I have not attempted the dripper build as of yet. I have wrapped one wick, tank-style.
My first attempt at building a coil uses the included silica wick. I successfully, and rather efficiently, wrapped a silica coil which metered out at 1.6 ohms on my Evic. It does not wick very well. (I don't see this as a shortcoming of the AGI, rather, my fledgeling wick building - I assume one of the wraps is too tight). But the build was not difficult. The lip around the wick platform is somewhat cumbersome to work around, but not much. All terminals are easy to get too, and securing the wire was not problematic.
The build is solid. It's heavy, which some will like and some won't .(I do) I was concerned, at first, with the decision to secure the top cap to the wick platform with o-rings. I would have rather seen a threaded connection, but the o-ring connection secures the top to the base surprisingly well. It can be tightened to the PV with a grasp on the top cover without slipping or twisting. It is quite secure.
I have to say I am very pleased with the decision to include an extra set of o-rings and set screws in the packaging. This is a level of attention many manufacturers overlook, and it is noticeable when you don't overlook it.
Overall, I give the AGI 10/10. It is a well made device, and first appearances say it will last for years to come. Excellent pick up, Gotvapes! Now I need to practice my wick making skills....
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AGI, #400 SS Mesh, 4/5 wraps of 30ga Kanthal @ 1.1ohm. Reaction time is in the blink of an eye. The fire button on the Natural is pressed the moment I say "Ok"
Cool to know... I just got some 30ga in myself and was wondering how many wraps I was going to use... I'm thinking more... something like 5/6 or 6/7 so I can increase the ohms and therefore the surface area of the coil.
day 3 with the AGI .. tried a different method .. moved the negative screw to its adjacent hole .. and made a horizontal wick / coil ..works like a charm ..a big ty to adrena for the "twist" method =)
came out as 1.8 ohm on 32ga kantal A-1 ..4 wraps .. silica is wicking well ..but its a bit black ..so it might be too tight still .. i'm happy with actually getting it to work =)
edit: forgot pics.
came out as 1.8 ohm on 32ga kantal A-1 ..4 wraps .. silica is wicking well ..but its a bit black ..so it might be too tight still .. i'm happy with actually getting it to work =)
edit: forgot pics.
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Another good trick if you are wrapping the coil off the wick is to use a screw. I have an extra screw that fits the aga that is way too long and I wrapped my last coil on it and just followed the threads. 'Unscrewed' the screw from the perfect looking coil, hooked the ends on the pos and neg screws of my agi and slid the wick in petar k style. For me it was easier than trying to find the right size drill bit and to use and then finagle wrapping the coil around the drill bit while it was in the agi. Worked pretty good. I'll see if I have time tonight to get a pic or 2 lol
On another note the size of the little screws they are using for the fill hole got my thinking why isn't there a carto tank that uses one or two to them in bottom tank cap (or in both caps even) to secure the tank to the carto? Sure you couldn't crank it down too tight as it could deform the carto but it could work lol
On another note the size of the little screws they are using for the fill hole got my thinking why isn't there a carto tank that uses one or two to them in bottom tank cap (or in both caps even) to secure the tank to the carto? Sure you couldn't crank it down too tight as it could deform the carto but it could work lol
i'd imagine it would cause leaks when you wanted to slide the carto out to refill ..and orings work pretty well for that purpose anyway =P (usually)
naw. Think like below the bottom oring on the bottom cap. Loosen it up when its time to slide and fill then when your done and the tank is back in the proper place on the carto just tighten it up until its snug. It would not have to be too tight but just enough to keep the tank from sliding around when you didn't want it to. Looking at the pics of the private tank there might be enough metal where the divots are for one to have one of the tiny screws go in there.
OH WAIT Looks like someone might have thought of it faster than me
see this pic - there's a screw in the base LOL
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/906798_437649126320976_697406413_o.jpg
I got in my kanthal its making alot of difference. No more hot legs and no broken coils. Only con is I had to do about 7-8 wraps to get it high enough ohms to run on my vmax.
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