Billow V2 Burning Liquid, Cleaning Help

[penguoctopus]

Hiya,

I just recently started getting into coil building and most recently purchased a Goblin Mini and a Billow V2. The goblin is great. Using a .3 ohm build with 24g Lightning Vapes wire. Excellent flavor, good clouds.

I installed the same 8-wrap build in my Billow V2 (after having boiled it sans o-rings and giving it a good brushing). I dry burned the coils and they didn't smell like anything. Wicked everything well (same as goblin, 2.5mm dia coils) but there was this burning taste. Wicks looked nice and juiced, good spacing from the coils. Even pulled it out to check and that sucker was moist moist moist. Took those coils off, built a new one, and then everything after when dry burning new coils tasted the same.

Is there a cleaning process for coil builders that I'm not aware of? Am I supposed to boil/wash the deck every time I switch an element out? I'm feeling like there's a fine layer of juice cooking on the posts giving it that horrific smell, but I just cleaned another time and the same thing is happening. No hot legs, nice and even burn on both ends, same spool and coil I used on my Goblin Mini. Any help would be appreciated. If I left something important out, please do let me know and I'll fill y'all in. Thanks!

 

[MattyTny]

If you are pulling out the wicks after you get that bad taste and its not scorched or burnt in anyway it sounds like it's something other than the wicking. Although a wick that is loose can cause a metallic taste with out burning the wick right away.

24 gauge can be tight in those RTA chambers, make sure all the coils and leads have clearance when you put the tank together.

Sometimes coil placement can change the vape itself. Make sure your coils are positioned in such a way that the air from the deck can hit the coils efficiently. Coils high off the deck can give a hotter vape.

Sometimes a coil can be too big for its air hole causing the air not flow efficiently, this doesn't sound like the case since you used a 2.5mm coil ID.

If you can post a picture of the build that would help us figure it out too. What device are you using and wattage are you firing it at if it's a regulated.

If all checks out, make sure your seals in the tank are working, so the vacuum is held. If all else fails, try a different gauge like 26.

 

[penguoctopus]

Hi,

First things first: thanks for your reply.

It was definitely the air holes in the end. The Billow's air holes are a little squatter, so I really had to jam the coil to sit just above it and I did end up lowering it substantially. I gave it a good wicking and about a 15 minute prime and now she's hitting surprisingly nice (even nicer than the Gob). I was really yanking the coils up off the air channels which effectively made them dangerously close to the chimney, making this thing absolutely scorch at 32 watts on a .3 build. I also think that it had something to do with residual juice being burnt off a new dry coil and just sticking to it in the worst possible way.

I appreciate the help. Insanely simple solution to what I thought was a difficult problem. Thanks a ton!

 

[MattyTny]

You're welcome! Glad it was an easy fix.

Coil placement is a big factor is many atomizers and I feel like RTAs are more sensitive with it. You can kind of picture what the air path will look like depending on the air hole size, coil size, and distance from the two. Sometimes bringing the coils closer can make the draw a bit tighter, but the air is drawn over the coils in such a way that it cools the heat from the coils easier. This all depends on the type of atomizer and the type of coil though.