Blown away by bettery life...

[eda123]

Well, prior to this i used a 600mah battery mod (eGo) and a MVPv2 (which has some over 2000mah battery).

The eGo would last me from 7am till about 1pm.
The MVP would last me a full day, but usually crap out late in the night around 9pm if i vaped heavy that day.


Now- the 18350 in the Provari mini is blowing away what i expected. That thing is lasting me from 7am till about 5pm consistently, with heavy vaping in the morning and moderate in the afternoon. Jeez... if this isnt a testimonial that the provari is way more efficient than other mods, i dont know what is.

The 18500 lasted me an entire day sun up to sun down, heavy vaping on a weekend. Im sure it would have lasted more into the next day but i recharged it anyways.

Just wanted to share for any people using other mods to project what their battery needs will be if moving to a Provari... i am happy because the 18350 size is so much more compact to fit in your pocket/hand throughout the day, and having two can last you a full complete day... with one carrying most of the day with no issue.

Also FWIW, im running a 2ohm dual coil protank 3, at 4V. So 8W drain on the battery.

 

[BadTrainDriver]

I consistently get a little over 1 full day of vaping with my Provari and an AW IMR 18490 battery.
3 ohm Ikenvape cartomizer in an IBTanked tank, 3.8 to 4.2 volt range depending on the juice used at the time.

I do have one question...not meaning to stray from your thread...
Is it an OK practice to use the battery until the Provari shuts itself off?
I have the Mini Stealth, and thus there is no flashing button to tell me the battery is getting low.
I know I can still check the battery through the menu, and I do that occasionally...but most of the time I just vape until it quits, then change the battery.
So...is that a bad habit?

Thanks in advance!

 

[MrOcelot]

I consistently get a little over 1 full day of vaping with my Provari and an AW IMR 18490 battery.
3 ohm Ikenvape cartomizer in an IBTanked tank, 3.8 to 4.2 volt range depending on the juice used at the time.

I do have one question...not meaning to stray from your thread...
Is it an OK practice to use the battery until the Provari shuts itself off?
I have the Mini Stealth, and thus there is no flashing button to tell me the battery is getting low.
I know I can still check the battery through the menu, and I do that occasionally...but most of the time I just vape until it quits, then change the battery.
So...is that a bad habit?

Thanks in advance!

generally you do not want to run the battery completely dead. Running it low say to 4.3/4.2 then charge it before it totally dies. batteries perform better for longer doing this.

 

[BadTrainDriver]

generally you do not want to run the battery completely dead. Running it low say to 4.3/4.2 then charge it before it totally dies. batteries perform better for longer doing this.

I'm confused.
I thought 4.2v was the max charge the battery could take.

 

[Nibiru2012]

Is it an OK practice to use the battery until the Provari shuts itself off?
I have the Mini Stealth, and thus there is no flashing button to tell me the battery is getting low.
I know I can still check the battery through the menu, and I do that occasionally...but most of the time I just vape until it quits, then change the battery.
So...is that a bad habit?

Thanks in advance!

It's best to change out the battery once it hits about 3.7-3.8 volt range. It's not recommended to run the battery down until it's dead. The lowest I've gone is about 3.6 volts. That's when my iTaste SVD shuts itself off. I was testing the thing out to see what voltage I had when the SVD shut off.

I use Panasonic NCR18650PF batteries which last me all day long with no issues at all, sometimes they'll last about 1-1/2 days.

 

[MrOcelot]

I'm confused.
I thought 4.2v was the max charge the battery could take.

was just testing mine off the charger when i wrote that sorry. I meant 3.4.3.3 range is what i have been seeing on mine when the light starts to flash.

 

[BadTrainDriver]

I thought maybe you meant 3 instead of 4...but I'm just learning all this battery stuff!

Cool, I'll try to take it out once 3.4 is hit.

Thanks!

 

[Ozwald]

I consistently get a little over 1 full day of vaping with my Provari and an AW IMR 18490 battery.
3 ohm Ikenvape cartomizer in an IBTanked tank, 3.8 to 4.2 volt range depending on the juice used at the time.

I do have one question...not meaning to stray from your thread...
Is it an OK practice to use the battery until the Provari shuts itself off?
I have the Mini Stealth, and thus there is no flashing button to tell me the battery is getting low.
I know I can still check the battery through the menu, and I do that occasionally...but most of the time I just vape until it quits, then change the battery.
So...is that a bad habit?

Thanks in advance!

+1 to above answers, it is better to charge it earlier, but it's not *that* big of a deal. Compounded you'll shorten the battery life, but considering their lifespan & what they cost...

What I do, both with my Stealth & my standard issue, is I swap batteries on a schedule. I'm using the 490's as well & I find that if I'm using just 1 Provari, I swap them out 2x a day. Even with really heavy vaping I get 15+ hours out of a battery, so 2x a day (bit less than 12 hours considering I'm not vaping in my sleep... yet. Working on the logistics) works really well & as a bonus, I never have to carry a spare battery.

 

[StormFinch]

The Provari shuts down before the battery is completely dead, right as it hits between 3.2 and 3.3 I believe, so no worries if you forget to change or check it. According to Battery University the lowest they should discharge is 3.0 and they will go into sleep mode if allowed to get to 2.7.

 

[glassgal]

Gaahhh... I just got my first non-Provari round mech battery... OMFG... what are people thinking buying that stuff? . I guess because I started with good stuff, my standards are a bit higher to start with. But uh... how do you get a mech to WORK? (I got a BaGua battery as a partial trade, and there's no fire button, and the bottom won't push up when there's a battery in place). I am completely baffled by this.

 

[Spydro]

I'm having mixed results with batts in the ProVari's. All still just guess work why, but I'll ramble some of it for all to pick at.

All my previous batts for the other devices are Efest flat tops ('350's and '650's) - 10 total. They have been exceptional, after 6 months of day and night use all of them are still going strong, all still take a full charge, etc. They haven't been used since the ProVari's came 6 weeks ago though except in the Don.

The 12 AW IMR button top's I bought for the ProVari's ('350's, '490's and '650's) can't claim the same (and they are supposedly not clones). A couple have already died, a few more won't take a full charge anymore. With both full and mini size Stealth's I keep an eye on them so they don't fully discharge, pull them at 3.4 to recharge. But I have had times when in the other ProVari's they did get to the blinking button before being immediantly changed. Also have a couple of Efest '490 button tops, they are still as good as new.

So the quandries... I have never got an "E" error code on any of my ProVari's that I've seen (unless one comes up with the blinking button that I didn't notice) except an E2 once. To me batts have a memory and cycling them to nearer the low end is better than recharging them again while still on the high end. When a batt needs recharge it doesn't sit around, it goes in the charger, and they are rotated so the longest since recharge gets used next. There have been times when I didn't take batts back out of the charger as soon as they were fully recharged (fell asleep). Maybe most of my AW's came from old stock whereas none of the Efest did? Is 12 batts in rotation not enough to expect more than 5-6 weeks of use out of them all? What the ProVari's say the remaining batt charge is seldom agree's with what it really is when checked outside of the ProVari. The ProVari's almost always show the AW's with less of a charge than what they really have according to my Fluke VOM and my LUC LCD Smart Charger. Does the AW's not like the Efest Smart Charger? That doesn't happen with the Efest batts. But then there's the Fluke, a high end VOM I'd trust over the charger or the ProVari's any day and twice on Sunday. I've had a blinker that the Fluke and the charger said was still 3.7 and good to go.

When a couple more batts fail and I need to order more I'm going to get both AW's and Efest button tops and keep a log on them to see what's actually happening with them. I'll probably buy another higher grade charger as well to see if that is a problem with the AW's.

 

[The Ocelot]

Never mind.

 

[Ozwald]

I'm having mixed results with batts in the ProVari's. All still just guess work why, but I'll ramble some of it for all to pick at.

All my previous batts for the other devices are Efest flat tops ('350's and '650's) - 10 total. They have been exceptional, after 6 months of day and night use all of them are still going strong, all still take a full charge, etc. They haven't been used since the ProVari's came 6 weeks ago though except in the Don.

The 12 AW IMR button top's I bought for the ProVari's ('350's, '490's and '650's) can't claim the same (and they are supposedly not clones). A couple have already died, a few more won't take a full charge anymore. With both full and mini size Stealth's I keep an eye on them so they don't fully discharge, pull them at 3.4 to recharge. But I have had times when in the other ProVari's they did get to the blinking button before being immediantly changed. Also have a couple of Efest '490 button tops, they are still as good as new.

So the quandries... I have never got an "E" error code on any of my ProVari's that I've seen (unless one comes up with the blinking button that I didn't notice) except an E2 once. To me batts have a memory and cycling them to nearer the low end is better than recharging them again while still on the high end. When a batt needs recharge it doesn't sit around, it goes in the charger, and they are rotated so the longest since recharge gets used next. There have been times when I didn't take batts back out of the charger as soon as they were fully recharged (fell asleep). Maybe most of my AW's came from old stock whereas none of the Efest did? Is 12 batts in rotation not enough to expect more than 5-6 weeks of use out of them all? What the ProVari's say the remaining batt charge is seldom agree's with what it really is when checked outside of the ProVari. The ProVari's almost always show the AW's with less of a charge than what they really have according to my Fluke VOM and my LUC LCD Smart Charger. Does the AW's not like the Efest Smart Charger? That doesn't happen with the Efest batts. But then there's the Fluke, a high end VOM I'd trust over the charger or the ProVari's any day and twice on Sunday. I've had a blinker that the Fluke and the charger said was still 3.7 and good to go.

When a couple more batts fail and I need to order more I'm going to get both AW's and Efest button tops and keep a log on them to see what's actually happening with them. I'll probably buy another higher grade charger as well to see if that is a problem with the AW's.

Where did you get the AW's from? I was also under the impression that their chemistry didn't allow for a 'memory' to develop, but I could be wrong. LiIon's can't develop one for example, but I don't know precisely what the chem is in the AW's. I would wonder about the charger as well.

 

[Spydro]

Where did you get the AW's from? I was also under the impression that their chemistry didn't allow for a 'memory' to develop, but I could be wrong. LiIon's can't develop one for example, but I don't know precisely what the chem is in the AW's. I would wonder about the charger as well.

Four different vendors in four different states. I don't know about memory in a LiMN for sure either. The charger is compatible with both Li-ion and LiMN batts.

 

[Ozwald]

Did you check if they were listed as authorized suppliers? I got all of mine from ProVape but when I buy more I'm going straight to RTD for better prices. They're both on the list for sure, there's more but I don't know them off the top of my head.

 

[Spydro]

I doubt vendors have to be "authorized' to sell real AW IMR batts (is there such a list?). All vendors list them as if they are the real thing (or at least I've never seen one admit that they were not). Some outwardly state they are... is that true or just sales hype to cover up that they are clones? The thread about this a while back here indicated that the markings on these batteries had changed and yet they were supposedly still both the real thing to some folks and not to others. Even those on ProVape's site have different markings. I certainly don't know for sure either way. I've bought from RTD before, but still just another unknown vendor to me when it comes to the batts.

 

[Ozwald]

I doubt vendors have to be "authorized' to sell real AW IMR batts (is there such a list?). All vendors list them as if they are the real thing (or at least I've never seen one admit that they were not). Some outwardly state they are... is that true or just sales hype to cover up that they are clones? The thread about this a while back here indicated that the markings on these batteries had changed and yet they were supposedly still both the real thing to some folks and not to others. Even those on ProVape's site have different markings. I certainly don't know for sure either way. I've bought from RTD before, but still just another unknown vendor to me when it comes to the batts.

A while back someone contacted them & posted a list. They're 'authorized' vendors in the sense that AW acknowledges them as a vendor & those are the folks that you can count on for selling the real deal. They didn't take a test or anything . There's a ton of fakes out there, probably more than the real ones. Some are obvious - no button top, bad printing, etc, but some look rather convincing (but that's just the red plastic, not the inside). AW does have a few different layouts on the outside, so you can't always count on that, but if you do buy them from a dealer who AW says they sell them to, I would think you're pretty safe there. Whomever got in touch with them listed maybe a dozen or so places that sold authentic AW's, but I just noted that ProVape & RTD were legit. RTD's prices are cheap enough that I don't really feel like memorizing a long list to save a few pennies.

 

[EvilZoe]

Just posting to say I love the typo in the title.

From now on, all good batteries should be called "betteries" lol

 

[eda123]

Just posting to say I love the typo in the title.

From now on, all good batteries should be called "betteries" lol

HAHAHA thanks Zoe for pointing that out. LOL.

BTW I are an enginer, so its ecspected.

 

[Ozwald]

I think we're about to get schooled...