blue foam dangers?

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oettinger

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You get polyfil in the craft aisle. Do you get blue foam in the pet aisle? What is ZFM?

I get mine from Petco, they do not sell it at WalMart. It is called "Marineland Bonded Foam Sleeve RITE-SIZE U

You cut it up into little pieces, About a zillion for a package, and stuff it in the carts.
 

cozzicon

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Don't think so...just left to everyone's personal decision. Many users of blue foam (maybe most) probably don't know anything about it at all, I would imagine. Often in a brand new arena such as e-cigs, you start "hot-rodding" and improvising, and start using materials in places they shouldn't be...such is the case with blue foam.

This particular polyurethane foam was designed specifically for aquarium filters, and related chemically to the infamous polyurethane foam used in construction, mattresses, etc...also called "fatal foam" and "solid gasoline" by firefighters.

According to a previous thread, blue foam releases cyanide at 500F. While it doesn't get that hot in carts, the vaporizing chamber in the atty does, and blue foam particles could get in there. I choose not to chance it, and I choose not to recommend it to new members. I grew up with mercury in my tooth fillings, lead in my paint, asbestos in my floor tiles, ceiling panels, and hair dryers...all deemed harmless at that time. Now, I don't want blue foam in my e-cig.

Here's the link to the older thread started by a member from Spain:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...e-foam-dangerous-poison-toxic.html#post894104

Members should do their own research after reading this and then make their own personal decision. Is it worth the risk? Especially since there are other cart mods that work just as well, perhaps better then the BFM.

Shaka...

The vaporisation chamber does not reach 500F- or anywhere near that. External measurements have shown temps of over 160F. If it was 500F- that kinf of energy would melt all the plastic parts and burn your hands.

This is just incorrect information.
 

vapinmachine

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May 26, 2009
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I'm using blue foam in my eGo carts too, and I love it. It's wicking efficiently and there is less flooding risk.

Happy vaping folks ;)

I must admit, since I switched to bf I haven't had any flooding issues. Overall it works out very well.

I still might try fluval, haven't done so yet so why not lol
 

vapinmachine

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Does the blue foam vape with good flavor until it's vaped dry? Using fluval right now and no way to vape it dry. It's wasting my liquid, but if the blue foam is toxic I wouldn't want to save liquid that way.

I don't vape it completely dry. I usually get all the fluid out of the cart but the foam itself holds some of the juice that does not wick.

BLUE FOAM is used in FISH TANKS, if it were toxic it would kill the fish.

Fish are by far more sensitive to toxins than humans, if it won't harm a fish, it wont harm you.
 

vapinmachine

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Just thought I'd add, that I only put blue foam in 1/4th of the cart, I plug it.

I take the foam out.. fill the cart almost all the way up, tweezer the foam in, and top it off with another drop or 2. I vape it almost dry, however, the foam does hold some juice that won't go through at the end. Overall it does a good job. I'm using 50/50 juice. If I use pure PG juice with blue foam plug method I get ejuice in my mouth
 

cliff5550

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Does the blue foam vape with good flavor until it's vaped dry? Using fluval right now and no way to vape it dry. It's wasting my liquid, but if the blue foam is toxic I wouldn't want to save liquid that way.

I have often vaped Fluval so dry that when I took off the cart the dry Fluval was actually stuck to the atomizer. Dry as a bone.
Every time I've tried the blue foam I have a seriously leaking problem. Ah well, to each his own. Ya vape what works best for you.
 

Shaka

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Jun 2, 2010
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I'd like to know what your source is for saying that the atty chamber gets to 500F...

the infamous FDA tests put operating temperatures at between 40-60C...

and personal tests with a temperature probe hooked to a DMM put the temperature directly on the coil of a 510 atty at 180F after holding the button down for 10 seconds continuous (and that's a dry atty which would be hotter than one with juice)...

the same test repeated swapping out the stock 510 battery with a 3.7V mod and a LR atty put the temp at 275F at 15 seconds continuous firing...

SO....I'd really like you to substantiate that over 500F temperature inside an atty chamber comment..

Sorry for not getting back to this thread earlier…haven’t had much time to spend on the keyboard lately.

Well Drozd, since I didn’t do my own tests, I retract that statement about the temperature. I dabbled in tempering metal and I know any metal, whether it’s steel or the tungsten filament of a light bulb, have approximate generally accepted temps for a given color, and it’s a fact that any metal hot enough to emit light (glows) is well over 500F. The tip temp of my soldering iron runs at about 650F and it’s nowhere close to glowing.

So I decided to look it up and here’s a part of a table from The Physics Factbook™ — an encyclopedia of scientific essays written by high school students (there are many others):

Process Associates of America, Metal Temperature by Color
Color Approximate Temperature
°F °C K
Faint Red 930 500 770
Blood Red 1075 580 855
Dark Cherry 1175 635 910
Medium Cherry 1275 690 965
Cherry 1375 745 1020
Bright Cherry 1450 790 1060

So I do find it hard to believe that the atty coil, which can run bright red (as you know when you dry burn), is 32F less than the temperature of boiling water. So if I put a drop of juice on something out of the oven at 180F the juice should vaporize? Maybe I’ll try that. In any event, consider it retracted…because this issue really detracts from my main motivation for posting.

The primary intent for my post and the link to the past thread was to raise some red flags, some caution, and hopefully prompt people to pay a little more attention into what they’re sucking into their lungs…at least do some research and make an educated choice. You see, I lost two friends to a substance thought to be totally harmless (asbestos). What alarmed me most in that older thread was what Kristin said: “But I have read that it can start to degrade at 240F degrees, so I'm a little wary of polyurethane.” That’s not too much hotter than boiling water!

I go back to the closing statements in my post: “Members should do their own research after reading this [linked thread] and then make their own personal decision. Is it worth the risk? Especially since there are other cart mods that work just as well, perhaps better than the BFM.”

That was my intent, period. And if I got a few people thinking, or even erring on the side of caution, then I achieved my purpose.
 

zoiDman

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...

Well Drozd, since I didn’t do my own tests, I retract that statement about the temperature. I dabbled in tempering metal and I know any metal, whether it’s steel or the tungsten filament of a light bulb, have approximate generally accepted temps for a given color, and it’s a fact that any metal hot enough to emit light (glows) is well over 500F. The tip temp of my soldering iron runs at about 650F and it’s nowhere close to glowing.

....

So I do find it hard to believe that the atty coil, which can run bright red (as you know when you dry burn), is 32F less than the temperature of boiling water. So if I put a drop of juice on something out of the oven at 180F the juice should vaporize? Maybe I’ll try that. In any event, consider it retracted…because this issue really detracts from my main motivation for posting.
....

I'm with you Shaka....

I have been looking for some Color / Temperature data on NiChrome wire. Seems that most people will not except that a atomizer coil wire could Not be made of Anything Else.

Since you mentioned that you have dabbled in Metallurgy and Heat treating, I'm sure you have seen this Iron-Carbon Diagram before.

Iron_Caron_Phase_Diagram_Detailed.jpg
 

zoiDman

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BTW - I know this isn't a great comparision. But I used a direct contact probe thermometer on my toaster, NiChrome heating elements, and when it was Bright Red I measured it at around 425F.

The problem I have is I don't know how accurate the calibration is on my thermomter? For Ice it reads 34F and for boing Water it reads 204F on the side of the pot.
 
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