Boro Mod's, Tanks, Attys And More

badinfluence357

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I had to get another Tycoon, I did copy pig's and got the olive this time around. I dont like the mods with the entire battery exposed. I don't know how well the battery is secured. Also the BXR dna transplant went horrible. It was and old pcb, but the good news is, I feel more comfortable soldering. All I have to do is buy a new dna board. I think I will be able to restore the BXR with a New dna. If I buy the new board, can someone rebuild it for me... It will be the best xmas ever...

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badinfluence357

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Huh? Ribbon cable goes first? Then it shorts? Tell me more! Two years ago I had 92 DNA mods. Nowadays that number may be well over 100 (I stopped counting). And I never experienced this problem.

There was a rash of early DNA40 mods (remember VaporShark?) that had some cold solder joints connecting the ribbon cable to the board (just before they used ZIF sockets). This caused some dodgy displays. Again this happened with a few early batches of the DNA250C. This time it was cold solder joints on the ZIF sockets (I forgot to mention they are not coated either). This too caused dodgy displays. I have 5 DNA40 mods and over 30 (28 for sure) DNA250C mods and never experienced any dodgy displays or ribbon cable issues.
I'm not going to get into the how long you've had your mod but from my experiences. After mayor flooding and poor insulation. The first signs of damage will be the screen or the up and down buttons. usually the screen go's first. Some people wipe everything down quickly and will get away with it some will not. I learned that if you see liquid coming down the right side of your screen plate you should take it apart and clean it instantly. I've had a couple BB's for years too, with proper maintenance and insulation...
 

BillW50

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I'm not going to get into the how long you've had your mod but from my experiences. After mayor flooding and poor insulation. The first signs of damage will be the screen or the up and down buttons. usually the screen go's first. Some people wipe everything down quickly and will get away with it some will not. I learned that if you see liquid coming down the right side of your screen plate you should take it apart and clean it instantly. I've had a couple BB's for years too, with proper maintenance and insulation...

Ah yes... screens and switches. They don't conformal coat the switches since the switches wouldn't work if they did. I know the fire button can be disassembled and cleaned still mounted on the board. I am not sure if you can do the same for the up and down buttons, as I never investigated them. If you're talking about BB up and down buttons, those aren't even from Evolv at all. Manufactures source them from other sources. Probably from southeast Asia.

Screens are not manufactured by Evolv either. Nor can you use conformal coating on the screens. And liquid can seep inside where the ribbon cable enters. I never seen OLED screen sealed yet. I don't know if they have to be vented or not. Regardless they are inexpensive and easily changed out since on the board side uses a ZIF connection. I purchased about 20 spare screens from the start thinking I would have to replace one once in awhile. Today I still have them and never had to replace one yet.
 

Pigs

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If I buy the new board, can someone rebuild it for me... It will be the best xmas ever...
I'd do it for you mate but the postage to and from Australia probably makes it impractical.
One thing to watch out for is the way the 5Avape bxr clone's wiring works to/from the fire switch. It's a long run of very fine wire through the PET material - runs behind the boro tank in that thin wall. If that wiring is compromised there's no way to replace it.
 

BillW50

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If I buy the new board, can someone rebuild it for me... It will be the best xmas ever...
I'd do it for you mate but the postage to and from Australia probably makes it impractical.

I soldered for decades, both professionally and as a hobbyist. Although my essential tremors has caught up with me (it runs in my family). And I have seen how the medication and surgery route has done to my family. And to that I say no thanks! As it really screwed them up. So building coils and soldering as been on the back burner for me for awhile. Essential tremors seems to be a vitamin/mineral deficiency. So I've been playing around with combinations and it seems to be getting better. Vitamin B1 and CoQ10 seems to be the most beneficial.
 

badinfluence357

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I soldered for decades, both professionally and as a hobbyist. Although my essential tremors has caught up with me (it runs in my family). And I have seen how the medication and surgery route has done to my family. And to that I say no thanks! As it really screwed them up. So building coils and soldering as been on the back burner for me for awhile. Essential tremors seems to be a vitamin/mineral deficiency. So I've been playing around with combinations and it seems to be getting better. Vitamin B1 and CoQ10 seems to be the most beneficial.
I am so so sorry to hear that mate..
 

badinfluence357

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I'd do it for you mate but the postage to and from Australia probably makes it impractical.
One thing to watch out for is the way the 5Avape bxr clone's wiring works to/from the fire switch. It's a long run of very fine wire through the PET material - runs behind the boro tank in that thin wall. If that wiring is compromised there's no way to replace it.
Pig's your always there to help anyone and everyone in the community. I'm going to see if I can try it one more time. Thank you for the offer, I will keep you in mind...
 

crss

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    badinfluence357 - I can repair it.
    I had to get another Tycoon, I did copy pig's and got the olive this time around. I dont like the mods with the entire battery exposed. I don't know how well the battery is secured. Also the BXR DNA transplant went horrible. It was and old pcb, but the good news is, I feel more comfortable soldering. All I have to do is buy a new DNA board. I think I will be able to restore the BXR with a New DNA. If I buy the new board, can someone rebuild it for me... It will be the best xmas ever...

    View attachment 1005135

    I soldered for decades, both professionally and as a hobbyist. Although my essential tremors has caught up with me (it runs in my family). And I have seen how the medication and surgery route has done to my family. And to that I say no thanks! As it really screwed them up. So building coils and soldering as been on the back burner for me for awhile. Essential tremors seems to be a vitamin/mineral deficiency. So I've been playing around with combinations and it seems to be getting better. Vitamin B1 and CoQ10 seems to be the most beneficial.
    BillW50, My hands are not as steady these days - So I no longer fly my quadcopters. I usually drink a Redbull and my hands are steady for a few hours of soldering.
    Good news, red & purple camo frames arriving Monday, two new dna's arriving this week. I will be soldering very soon.
     

    Pigs

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    I'm going to see if I can try it one more time.
    Hope you do Bad. I'm confident you'll do a great job and you'll feel so good when that DNA 60 lights up!
    Good news, red & purple camo frames arriving Monday, two new dna's arriving this week. I will be soldering very soon.
    Awesome!
     

    BillW50

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    My hands are not as steady these days - So I no longer fly my quadcopters.

    Oh no! I still fly, but only on the super rare days my hands aren't so bad. I saw a video of me controlling the sticks once and I couldn't believe it was me. As I thought how could that guy fly anything with those shaky hands. :facepalm:

    I usually drink a Redbull and my hands are steady for a few hours of soldering.

    Ah interesting. With essential tremors it is just the opposite. RedBull makes it much worse. Being totally relaxed works wonders, but you can't do anything in that state. Luckily pcking up a vape and vaping it isn't too challenging yet. ;)
     

    Tor R

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    Wow ! I was doing some catching up reading. Dna boards are coated but its still possible for It to get damaged. Most of the time it's the ribbon cable part that connects the screen that go's first. Then eventually it causes a short on the board, even if its coated...
    It is impossible to coat contacts, switches, and the chipsets you get do not have a coating on any of the soldering points you should, or can, use.
    Then you can coat some of this yourself, technically speaking we can all coat chipsets, hardly as well as Evolv does, who might use robot coating, but it is possible to get a usable result with the right spray chemo and read up on 1-2- 3 step list.

    Dicodes, yes those that don't have a coating, I've followed a bit, obviously since I have some, apart from the ones Dicodes sell themselves as complete mods, they sell BF 60, FL 80, EC 23 chipset.
    Delro uses Dicodes on their next to latest Boro AIO, EC 23 but programmed to 3 switch function, the same also applies to C-Bot, such changes must be made in Firmware.
    Then there is a manufacturer that uses BF 60 but with a small screen, another example of firmware change.
    On the FL 80 there is a tiny USB on the chipset, it's been a while since I looked at the BF 60, but it's doubtful whether Dicodes does all the firmware upgrades at the factory.

    PS, There is an Evolv DNA 60 C coming, it is being tested across the pond
     

    Tor R

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    I learned from my last BB build that it's best to seal the atty positive ingress to the board before you do anything else. I made a mistake and had to retro fix that one.

    There's a pretty amazing all-purpose putty called Loctite Kintsuglue.
    Maybe I mentioned it before. Anyway, it has proved its worth fixing other stuff around the house (including a leak in the Xmas tree stand). Mouldable, flexible, waterproof, strong.

    This is stage one of my second sxk custom build

    View attachment 1005116
    View attachment 1005115
    The weakest point of all Boro&Billet.
    A small strip of silicone, or more fancy sealant does the job. An O ring also does the job.
    If possible, I would perhaps put a small silicone gasket under the screen cover as well.

    Frame from AliExpress is about to leave the Chinese landscape.
     

    Pigs

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    The weakest point of all Boro&Billet.
    A small strip of silicone, or more fancy sealant does the job. An O ring also does the job.
    If possible, I would perhaps put a small silicone gasket under the screen cover as well.

    Frame from AliExpress is about to leave the Chinese landscape.
    Neither a small strip of silicone (wrong shape) nor an o-ring will do the job in this case. Liquid silicon sealant or variations like the Loctite Kintsuglue are the best imo. You can use more permanent glues but I like to have the option of removing the the positive pin at a later date if I want..
    There's no need to put a silicon gasket under the screen because there should be no juice ingress from below. Always use a silicon gasket under the inner that frames the screen -all BBs should have that
     

    Pigs

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    I've been searching for a 6mm diameter flat SS washer to help connect the earth wires to the chassis on my new BB frame. This is the way BBV do it and I'd prefer not to solder it. I haven't found the right size yet. The smallest washers at the local hardware store are too big so I'll probably make something out of an aluminium drink can (3 layers?)
     

    Tor R

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    Neither a small strip of silicone (wrong shape) nor an o-ring will do the job in this case. Liquid silicon sealant or variations like the Loctite Kintsuglue are the best imo. You can use more permanent glues but I like to have the option of removing the the positive pin at a later date if I want..
    There's no need to put a silicon gasket under the screen because there should be no juice ingress from below. Always use a silicon gasket under the inner that frames the screen -all BBs should have that
    it was the screen frame I meant.
     
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    Tor R

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    I've been searching for a 6mm diameter flat SS washer to help connect the earth wires to the chassis on my new BB frame. This is the way BBV do it and I'd prefer not to solder it. I haven't found the right size yet. The smallest washers at the local hardware store are too big so I'll probably make something out of an aluminium drink can (3 layers?)
    Unfortunately, I can't help you with ideas, T
    I need to get my first frame before I see what you mean
     

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