All completely IMO of course... feel free to disagree with any and all.
The way atomizers are designed, or rather the type and method of wicking, as well as the type, resistance (Rickajho's post) and location of the coil(s) relative to the wicking is a substantial variable. When you add in voltage used, air flow and the literal millions of juice permutations... as my daddy used to say
"Boy... you is bound for trouble". Change one thing...
and you change the flavor profile completely. It's amazing that so many of those variations have flavor at all, or don't taste like burning gym socks more often than they do.
BC clearos with 2.0-3.0Ω, 5-6 wrap coils and 2mm silica wicking with flavor wicks (typical Kanger and clones) tend to work (fairly) well with light colored fruit & sweetener, high PG juices, and not so well with most darker, more, ah... pungent tobacco, coffee and chocolate flavors, and higher VG juices. Which is why I seldom use clearos of any kind, anymore... and that includes glassomizers like the Protank and clones.
If you must use clearomizers, I'd suggest that you learn to re-wick your coil heads with cotton or bamboo, and even learn to wrap your own coils. Cotton is easy enough to find in your home already, but you'll need 30 & 32 ga Kanthal wire if you want to make 1.5-3.0Ω 5 & 6 wrap coils.
And you'll need a resistance reading PV or a multimeter.
If you want to use just one 'type' of atty that will work well with most juices,
and isn't an RDA/RBA... I'd suggest you invest in a glass or polypropylene carto tank (IBTanked, Valley View Vapes, Phiniac and Hoosier Vapes would be my recommendations), and some Boge or Ikenvape bottom coil (more like mid-coil) punched cartomizers.
Ikenvape Platinum punched 2X3mm or
Boge "laser slotted" cartos... especially with dark, thick, sugary juices.
Or... just say to hell with it and get a mech and a few RDAs.
