BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made
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I used to do it on the drill press and only difference is that you have to be more careful doing plunge drilling so not to break the bit. On the lathe the pin is spinning (so the hole is centered) and drilling is much easier. Plus on the lathe the chuck and end stock are perfectly centered so you can't go wrong.
thank you guys for all of your input. I appreciate it 
are you thinking of the original version Steve? Maybe I looked at it wrong but it didn't seem that the same gdeal mod would work on the V4.
I think I'll just get over my no solder rule and take your advice. I'm confused by your pics though. Where did the flat top 510 come from?
I made the mistake of ordering the optional 22mm caps from FD. Uh, these aren't made for squonkers . Should have looked at the pics on their website a little closer.
are you thinking of the original version Steve? Maybe I looked at it wrong but it didn't seem that the same gdeal mod would work on the V4.
I think I'll just get over my no solder rule and take your advice. I'm confused by your pics though. Where did the flat top 510 come from?
I made the mistake of ordering the optional 22mm caps from FD. Uh, these aren't made for squonkers
. Should have looked at the pics on their website a little closer.
thank you guys for all of your input. I appreciate it
are you thinking of the original version Steve? Maybe I looked at it wrong but it didn't seem that the same gdeal mod would work on the V4.
Ok it's my fault for not explaining what I meant. All the 510's are same internal threadings so I just use the insulator from the original (you can get them separately) and use the gdeal system. I tried as I told you the V4 in it's stock configuration but it's nowhere near as solid as the vented pin setup. If you want to use the needle pin then I suggest you use the Turbocad method by drilling the insulator and fitting a section of feeder tubing for the needle. Turbo had posted some pics here a while back.
I'm planning in future to make my own delrin threaded insulators which will take the pin directly press fit and try that method. I'm planning to put a small o-ring under the head of the pin for some spring effect and a collar on the underside of the 510 to solder the pos connection. I intend to do some experimenting in future to find a new way around this connection but for the moment the gdeal solution is actually rock solid
Right now I'm stuck into designing this new mod and it's turning out to be much more of a design nightmare than I originally thought 
. I think I've changed the sketchup drawing about 28 times already and I've yet to make any chips.
I also realized I'll need some new tooling as well to pull this off so pretty much everything is taking longer than anticipated.
. I think I've changed the sketchup drawing about 28 times already and I've yet to make any chips. I also realized I'll need some new tooling as well to pull this off so pretty much everything is taking longer than anticipated.
I like the floating pin idea Steve, and was thinking along those same lines about making my own insulators. That's a ways out though as I am STILL trying to sell things to make room for my lathe. (kind of jumped the gun on that purchase haha)
About the v4 internal threading though, it's not the same as the classic. I mean, part of it is 510, the top portion. But then it steps down (or up depending how you look at it) to accommodate the insulator/pin assembly which is larger than 510. Maybe he changed the design recently.
I don't know, I also have a nice bf 510 I bought from an Italian bf shop that has a flat 22mm cap and a manual pin adjustment with a brass screw. It looks sealed really well too. Since this mod is for a friend, It's really important to me that it works flawlessly, and I've failed 2 of 2 on the gdeal mod so I'll probably use this and save the experimenting for my personal mods.
About the v4 internal threading though, it's not the same as the classic. I mean, part of it is 510, the top portion. But then it steps down (or up depending how you look at it) to accommodate the insulator/pin assembly which is larger than 510. Maybe he changed the design recently.
I don't know, I also have a nice bf 510 I bought from an Italian bf shop that has a flat 22mm cap and a manual pin adjustment with a brass screw. It looks sealed really well too. Since this mod is for a friend, It's really important to me that it works flawlessly, and I've failed 2 of 2 on the gdeal mod so I'll probably use this and save the experimenting for my personal mods.
When you say "failed" what was the problem? The way I do it is I don't even drill it, I just tap it's existing threaded hole and it taps like a charm
Hi Guys
Really want to try and make a home vacuum chamber for stabilising/dying wooden blocks.Thinking of using a cast aluminium pressure cooker as a chamber,the vacuum pump and gauge I have covered.From what I can read I need a heat treated acrylic resin but has anyone tried any other sort of stabiliser or have any tips on what I should try.
Really want to try and make a home vacuum chamber for stabilising/dying wooden blocks.Thinking of using a cast aluminium pressure cooker as a chamber,the vacuum pump and gauge I have covered.From what I can read I need a heat treated acrylic resin but has anyone tried any other sort of stabiliser or have any tips on what I should try.
I think a comprehensive search in YouTube will give you lots of helpful tips as to what resin to use and what curing times are required. I haven't got one but I have researched it and there's a heap of useful vids in YouTube. Usually the way it works is that the vacuum chamber saturates the wood and then the heat treatment cures it
what about the Woodoc 20? And that is just a polyurethane right? So any polyurethane should work no?
as for other stablizers, the only other one I know of is cactus juice resin but I have no experience with it.
I like that pressure cooker idea
failed, meaning slow leaks. You used a 6-32 screw right? I used a 8-32 so drilling was necessary. I try to keep them paired but maybe I used the wrong drill bit.
I'll get it figure out
Yes I suspect you used a slightly too large diameter drill bit. For an 8-32 screw you need a size 29 bit (0.1360")
http://www.boschtools.com/SiteCollectionDocuments/1666.pdf
http://www.boschtools.com/SiteCollectionDocuments/1666.pdf
I gotta build me a mosfet mod, can def make it more compact than a dna mod, I think the main thing I like about the dna is the mosfet switching, all the bells and whistles of meters and adjustability I could probably do without, i just can't stand mech switches so a mosfet would prolly be a happy medium for me, even though I now have a crapload of dnas
I built a vacuum chamber a while ago from a thick aluminum stock pot, I just used a gasket at the top and made a lid from 1.5" plexi, 1" would probably do... I drilled and threaded a black pipe into the side and epoxied it for good seal. the lid don't even have to clamp down really well because once you start pulling vacuum it seals itself pretty much, I made a clamp but realized in use it wasn't even necessary, you def don't need to use a pressure cooker type pot for vacuum but it does have to be strong and thick so it doesn't cave in. same thing goes for the plumbing, I used black pipe and a flex line from home depot made for hookup to a stove gas line as a flex line. that's the yellow corrugated line in the last pic
in order to get a perfect vacuum you want to be able to pull it down to over 29 in Hg at sea level, 29.9 is the most it can go and that's about a perfect vacuum. don't try anything critical if you're only pulling down to 28 or less, probably not going to get full penetration
I built a vacuum chamber a while ago from a thick aluminum stock pot, I just used a gasket at the top and made a lid from 1.5" plexi, 1" would probably do... I drilled and threaded a black pipe into the side and epoxied it for good seal. the lid don't even have to clamp down really well because once you start pulling vacuum it seals itself pretty much, I made a clamp but realized in use it wasn't even necessary, you def don't need to use a pressure cooker type pot for vacuum but it does have to be strong and thick so it doesn't cave in. same thing goes for the plumbing, I used black pipe and a flex line from home depot made for hookup to a stove gas line as a flex line. that's the yellow corrugated line in the last pic
in order to get a perfect vacuum you want to be able to pull it down to over 29 in Hg at sea level, 29.9 is the most it can go and that's about a perfect vacuum. don't try anything critical if you're only pulling down to 28 or less, probably not going to get full penetration
Very nice setup Turbo. I've seen on YouTube a similar setup with a thick plexi top lid and you're right once the vacuum starts you can actually pick it up from the lid and it'll hold. All you need is a good rubber seal
Vaschetta Easy Flat BF 22
they're not cheap but they seem very well made. I'm not fond of the connection options but for folks who use wire, it should work great. You'll have to press fit and/or glue it to the mod since there is no outer threading or nut to secure it. They also have a 15mm version as well as a nifty aluminum squonk button which I originally bought to use it as a mech switch but may end up using as intended one day.
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