BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

[Rossum]

I see a bird by the squonk hole there

Yep. I've seen it since the get-go, but nobody else has mentioned it.

What's a top and bottom cap run by said method? They as solid as they look?

IIRC, those Shapeways brass parts are 150-ish, and yes, they're very solid. Obviously, if one has a mill and skill the cost of the material is only a small fraction of that, but I have neither a mill nor the requisite skill.

 

[Rossum]

Peter has an uncanny ability to cut a piece of wood in such a way to elevate it and beautify it. How the heck he does that I have no idea. That mod is beautiful Ross congrats buddy

Yes he does. I set him a big hunk of that wood and he asked me what part of it I wanted the shell made from. My response was something to the effect of: That's up to you; use whatever section of it that you think would end up making the most interesting looking mod.

 

[CaptSteve]

Lets just say that the day it was raining talent, Pete showed up with no umbrella Ross.

 

[Quigsworth]

Nice Turbo...so many times I've wanted to do that to my dna Zebra...thing is, it's working perfect (for months and months...and months???, wth Evolv, you making a liar out of me?), but you know as soon as I pour acrylic something will pooch. The thing with small batch acrylic is you almost have to mix twice as much as you need to get a good consistent mix, it's no where near as forgiving as epoxy...if you think about it, say it's a 1:2 mix so you mix 1 gram hardener to 2 grams resin...but those are small measures, maybe you got 1g to 2.3g...you amplify that to litres (quarts) or gallons and you're a mile off...sucks, and I've been there...many times...rest assured though, unless you really screwed it up (or your ingredients are old) it'll kick, eventually, it's always better to have more resin to hardener, a hot kick looks like crap...my island in my cottage kitchen took 2 weeks before I could put anything heavy on it without dimpling.

 

[Quigsworth]

Yep. I've seen it since the get-go, but nobody else has mentioned it.


IIRC, those Shapeways brass parts are 150-ish, and yes, they're very solid. Obviously, if one has a mill and skill the cost of the material is only a small fraction of that, but I have neither a mill nor the requisite skill.

<<whistle>> that's some coin...curious though, how do they do it?, is it some type of printed material then it's plated or do they just take your file and instead of the printer, send it off to some guy at a cnc?

forgive my ignorance, I've looked around at some 3D print sites and they seem a little vague around that...

 

[drmarble]

I think they use something similar to the lost wax process. The item is printed in a plastic with a low melting point. This object is then encased in sand with channels to the outside (sprues?) and molten metal is poured in. The metal melts the plastic and replaces it with metal. The resulting sprues are then filed off. You get a rough, sand cast object of close to the desired dimensions. Sometimes there is some shrinkage of the plastic blank. Folks had lots of trouble with cast rings on the pekos and gdnas. They were too small. They all required lots of polishing.

 

[Rossum]

Brass models are fabricated using a complex five-step process. First, the model is printed in wax using a specialized high-resolution 3D Printer. It is then put in a container where liquid plaster is poured in around it. Once the plaster sets, the wax is melted out in a furnace, and the remaining plaster becomes the mold.

Molten brass is poured into this mold and set to harden. The plaster is broken away, revealing your new product.

From: Brass 3D Printing Material Information - Shapeways

Shapeways' various steels have had dimensional issues (typically being smaller than expected), but the brass parts I've gotten (as well as a single sterling silver part) have been close to spot on. Their "polished" finish on brass and sterling is also quite decent. Ignore the mild scuffs showing in the picture I posted a ways back, that's due to an attempt to get the polished brass cap to match the more matte v2 Nuppin; it's all going back to polished.

Their silver is done using a similar process.

However, their steels are done using an entirely different process:

To build steel models, special 3D printers deposit small drops of glue onto layers of stainless steel powder, one layer at a time, until the print is complete. We carefully remove these models from the printer. At this stage of the process, the objects are very fragile, similar to wet sand. The models then go through an infusion process that replaces the glue with bronze, creating a full metal product.

From: Stainless Steel 3D Printing Material Information - Shapeways

 

[EagleTa2]

I know what you mean about constant improvement! Ive been woodworking for 20plus years... Wood can be very forgiving and if you know me (even slightly) I am more critical of my own work.

On my mod, I really want to redo the button. It just sticks up too far and is wobbly to me. it consists of a .45 shell casing with as hi knurled nut epoxied into it so I could thread a 6-32 brass screw into it and have some adjustment. I really want it protrude above the mod no more than .375 and be almost flush with the throw.

This is really what has kept me from finishing a couple mech bf that I have started. Im just not in love with the switch and button.

So, would you guys be able to help me design and build a switch/button I actually like?

Thanks
Geo

 

[penguiness]

Yep. I've seen it since the get-go, but nobody else has mentioned it.

I told my parrot that you had a mod with his picture on it. He nodded his head. We noticed right away

 

[turbocad6]

Beautiful woodvil conversion Turbo. I love the simple elegant look, less is certainly more with this mod. That acrylic lense is a great touch

Can we have a peek inside?

thanks bro, here's the inside

Nice Turbo...so many times I've wanted to do that to my DNA Zebra...thing is, it's working perfect (for months and months...and months???, wth Evolv, you making a liar out of me?), but you know as soon as I pour acrylic something will pooch. The thing with small batch acrylic is you almost have to mix twice as much as you need to get a good consistent mix, it's no where near as forgiving as epoxy...if you think about it, say it's a 1:2 mix so you mix 1 gram hardener to 2 grams resin...but those are small measures, maybe you got 1g to 2.3g...you amplify that to litres (quarts) or gallons and you're a mile off...sucks, and I've been there...many times...rest assured though, unless you really screwed it up (or your ingredients are old) it'll kick, eventually, it's always better to have more resin to hardener, a hot kick looks like crap...my island in my cottage kitchen took 2 weeks before I could put anything heavy on it without dimpling.

yeah, I think I got the mix pretty good but like you say even a little off winds up being a big deal with product like this. it does seem to be getting better each day but it's still kinda soft.

it was pretty cool that I was able to use a disposable little pipette to suck up the mixture and then precisely feed each screen recess with it. I left this one a little less that flush but I poured my own a bit more to just about flush

I also did one of my own screens along side this one just as a test to be able to poke at it and I've poked that one hard enough to make a big dent with my finger tip but then it completely reverses itself back to perfectly flat in a few seconds.

I did already get a few fingerprints or marks in them both so ideally I'd love to wait till there hard then wetsand and polish back to perfect glass, only problem is from what I'm seeing now it may take a long while to get that hard... I knew this stuff was kind of slow just didn't know it was this slow. i tried waxing over it and it helps slightly with the stickyness but it's still kinda soft and it's at ~5 days right now. it could take weeks to be really hard

really this ebony screen isn't marked up too bad and you can't even see the marks much or when the screen is on really it's just not as perfect as it could be, like a sheet of glass is what I was expecting but for that you'd have to pour it and then not touch it at all for like 2 weeks I think.

 

[Aal_]

Turbo you seem to like your white/black guey stuff . Killer mod man.

 

[Quigsworth]

The 2nd reason why you mix twice as much acrylic than you need...it gives you something to poke with your finger (other than your work) to see if it's cured

 

[turbocad6]

yeah Aal, on the inside all I'm going for is lasts forever and fully waterproof, never really worried so much about making the inside look all pretty

and quigs yeah I did mix extra and I do have a little left in the mix cup for poking and testing but this stuff is weird, the thickest pour was my own screen, that one is the most cured at this point, the ebony was a thinner pour and it's not as solid yet, and what's left in the cup is very thin and it's still very tacky, all the same mix just different thickness. I didn't even touch the ebony screen til my own felt not so tacky but the ebony was thinner and more tacky still so it printed a bit

I don't think this stuff is ideal for thin pours but it does seem to be solidifying slowly

 

[avpx1]

I finally just gave up on the 510 altogether, bought a 7mm x .5 tap and put my focus on making hybrid RDA center pins

Quigs do you happen to have a picture of this type of setup? I find it interesting.

Thanks

 

[Quigsworth]

Quigs do you happen to have a picture of this type of setup? I find it interesting.

Thanks

Of course...keep in mind though, you have to make your own extended center pin. I started out by using Naval brass screws and venting them then I got the lathe and things got a bit more refined. This is not really the best system if you're an RDA swapper (unless you make all your RDA's hybrids) I rarely swap RDA's, if I get a new one and I like it, I just build another mod...

Here's the general idea, this is my copper/brass skeleton mod...

Here's the top side of the custom center pin

The Derringer is simply threaded into the copper top plate

Then lay in an insulator disc to separate the center pin/nut/contact leaf from the body and done...no 510

add: I don't recommend copper center pins if you have any plans on removing the RDA or play around with a lot of coil builds...while it's an excellent conductor, it's too soft to manhandle repeatedly

 

[avpx1]

Of course...keep in mind though, you have to make your own extended center pin. I started out by using Naval brass screws and venting them then I got the lathe and things got a bit more refined. This is not really the best system if you're an RDA swapper (unless you make all your RDA's hybrids) I rarely swap RDA's, if I get a new one and I like it, I just build another mod...

Thanks for posting the pics and for explaining how this innovative system works. I was having a hard time visualizing what your doing, but now I get it. I imagine that setup hits like a sledgehammer! I'm happy to see an alternative to the stupid 510 standard that's been thrust upon us all. I'm starting to think that it's time I start investing in tools instead of constantly spending my cash on the newest vape gear. I like what you've done.

 

[vapero]

first time I can post an image here!!! been lurking forever!
really small squonker, fully mechanical 10ml capacity!
now I need to make a better button and then I'll wrap it on a 3m wood vinyl (once I find them on one of my drawers)

here is a size comparison

vaping at .2 ohms it works amazingly well and it is really compact considering it is a bottomfeeder

 

[Rossum]

Hah! A battery box. Brilliant!

 

[Quigsworth]

vaping at .2 ohms it works amazingly well and it is really compact considering it is a bottomfeeder

.2 in that bad boy?...I trust you ran that past your risk management dept.?

I wouldn't bother with the wood grain vinyl...nothing wrong with the way it is imo.

 

[Quigsworth]

Thanks for posting the pics and for explaining how this innovative system works. I was having a hard time visualizing what your doing, but now I get it. I imagine that setup hits like a sledgehammer! I'm happy to see an alternative to the stupid 510 standard that's been thrust upon us all. I'm starting to think that it's time I start investing in tools instead of constantly spending my cash on the newest vape gear. I like what you've done.

I think this method gives you about as hard a hit as a mech can provide, the only way I can think to get anymore direct drive would be to either mill a top plate/RDA body out of one piece of stock (which is beyond my current skill level) or, and I have considered this, tear down the Derringer body of o rings and the insulator, coat everything with Ruby and silver solder the plate and RDA together as one...though considering the bite of the 7mm x.5 threading that would be just silly overkill.

As far as connection standards go...the 510 isn't bad, good thread choice (albeit uncommon) , it could have been worse and the 901 could have caught on...that would've sucked for me (and bf'ing in general)...Holy crap did I just date myself