BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

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turbocad6

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sx350 has several versions, from the original that runs on a single regular 18650 and goes to 60 watts, then they came out with a version that ran on 2 batteries in series for 7.4v and it did 100watts, then 120 I think. then they came out with the slim version which then got temp control eventually and is the J chip. all can run on a single battery except the 7.4v verison of the original chip. the later thin ones can run on one or 2 cells and can run to higher power with 2 cells
 

Quigsworth

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Hi guys, been into vaping since about 2009, never really thought I'd be able to mod a mod or make my own. I've owned Reos since early 2012. Never looked at other mods until recently got into extreme sub-ohm builds. Planning a 200w regulated mod, but to get my chops wet want to fix my old mechanical Reo Grand and make it regulated for up to 60w. Been lurking in this thread for the past week. Kinda broke right now and don't want to send the mod to Rob to get the 510 replaced to the new indestructible SS 510. LIke the new spring loaded style of many other mods, don't know if it will work on a BF.

How do you remove the old 510 from a Reo Grand? I've tried many methods, but I can't get it to happen. I don't want to damage the enclosure. Wanna mod my old Reo grand with an dna 40 chip or an sx 350 mini. Trying to look for a VV grand enclosure thats dead for the cheap to try to make one, but I have a dead Metal Reo Grand laying around.

At some point I'll have to make a wood mod too since my wife likes the looks of them. She doesn't vape. I as well am a happily employed Software Engineer, looking for a hobby. I'm also going back to school for CE/CS double major since I'm self-taught and thought that building regulated mods and making my own would help for my future degree.

Not sure about glue holding in the 510 due to conductivity issues but it is definitely pressed in. I've done a lot of modding on grands and the only sure fire way of getting the 510 out is to drill it out...which imo is what Rob also does when he swaps them. As there is no flange on his 510's you don't "have" to pull it, you can also push it in...I tried once with a hydraulic press...not going to happen without heat and I didn't want to screw up the finish.
 

camerajunkie

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So attempted to go low profile today since I don't have all the bits needed to do the 510. Yeah, using a variable speed jigsaw is borderline dangerous since I don't have a good table.

Waiting for my next pay check for a small WEN drill press and a table-top vice.

0c9e879a9ebc235307b1724342485f6e.jpg


In the meantime, gonna get some sand paper and stuff to strip the finish and get the reo looking nice. What do you guys recommend for a chemical strip on an aluminum Reo? Lye? I'm on page 56 right now. Trying to get through all 170+ posts.

Looking janky for now, we recently bought a condo, using the 2nd bedroom as my man cave. Trying to also build my side desk to put the press and a small table-top vice.

In your guys experience what's the best way not to breath in aluminum and metal particles? I have a couple 3m filtration masks With the replaceable filters on em.

Trying to decide if I do a mosfet/fuse setup so it stays mechanical but I get rid of the sparks/voltage drop, or go with an SX 350 mini J. I have 2 other REO's to work on, 1 is a LP Grand with updated SS510 + sub-ohm kit and the other is a stock Silver Vein Grand with up an upgraded sub-ohm kit.


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camerajunkie

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FDV has the V5 available now

Thanks for the heads up, will probably have to mill it down to 13mm if that's even possible. Waiting on my drill press to come in and finish getting my workbench setup before I can proceed much more.

Been stripping the Reo Grand, got most of it down. How do you guys go about making yours LP? Dremel High Speed cutter? CNC? Sander?
 
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camerajunkie

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A little update. Got the m10x1.5 tap and the 12mm end press. Still trying to decide what drill press to get.

Left the reo in lacquer thinner for a couple of days, then hand sanded it to this finish with 120 grit 3m pro grade precision. I'll hit it with 400, 800, 1000, and 2000 after I get the top done. The top seems the hardest to sand because of all the slopes angles. Tomorrow I'll drop a co-worker off to his house and he will let me use his bench grinder to shave off the 510.

This weekend I'll focus on finishing up everything to get ready for the 510. Still trying to plan if I want to do the fdv classic or do I want to shave something bigger down to fit. Might end up going with fdv since this is my first one.

Here's some pictures taken on a potato ^_^

e119643c6a00b3baa7319f069f96a5c6.jpg

1dd62cb20af5109495424d97271643c9.jpg



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Doffy

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5spike

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A little update. Got the m10x1.5 tap and the 12mm end press. Still trying to decide what drill press to get.

Left the reo in lacquer thinner for a couple of days, then hand sanded it to this finish with 120 grit 3m pro grade precision. I'll hit it with 400, 800, 1000, and 2000 after I get the top done. The top seems the hardest to sand because of all the slopes angles. Tomorrow I'll drop a co-worker off to his house and he will let me use his bench grinder to shave off the 510.

This weekend I'll focus on finishing up everything to get ready for the 510. Still trying to plan if I want to do the fdv classic or do I want to shave something bigger down to fit. Might end up going with fdv since this is my first one.

Here's some pictures taken on a potato ^_^

e119643c6a00b3baa7319f069f96a5c6.jpg

1dd62cb20af5109495424d97271643c9.jpg

The FDV 510 is a 10 x 1.0 tap if that's what you got the tap for. Just got an irwin tap and can confirm it.


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penguiness

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Thanks for the tip, I'll have to try that on my other reo. Will it damage the ss 510 on that one?


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You need to completely disassemble the 510 before using it. You don't want that soaking into your parts that make up the 510 connector.
 
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camerajunkie

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You need to completely disassemble the 510 before using it. You don't want that soaking into your parts that make up the 510 connector.

So just make sure the adjustable pin is removed, all bottom feed stuff, etc. But it's ok to leave the SS 510 itself in there right? It won't damage the threads themselves and the SS right?
 
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