BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made
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I was using brass before, tried with copper and there wasn't really any springiness there, when I tried copper it kept autofiring as it didn't go back.
as the silver bar is a good .6mm thick (about 21 gauge) and the travel distance is really short 2mm then there is more than enough springiness there
it really hits much much harder, I was about to change the battery as I felt the voltage going down, but now it just feels like a fresh one, I usually swap at 3.9 but it ran down to 3.6
Finished a couple of mods I've been working on.
The dual 18650 is made from Monkey Thorn with end caps in Purple Heart and is finished with CA glue.
The single 18650 is made from Oak with a Purple Heart door,the Oak is finished in CA glue and the door is burnished wax.
Nice thing about the CA glue is that as I get more proficient working with it I can improve the finish.
The dual 18650 is not as bulky as I thought it might be.
The dual 18650 is made from Monkey Thorn with end caps in Purple Heart and is finished with CA glue.
The single 18650 is made from Oak with a Purple Heart door,the Oak is finished in CA glue and the door is burnished wax.
Nice thing about the CA glue is that as I get more proficient working with it I can improve the finish.
The dual 18650 is not as bulky as I thought it might be.
Looking for m1.8 bolts can anyone direct me to right direction cant seem to locate any...
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I made some progress today on an 18500 I'm doing for a friend, until I blew a fuse in my mill/drill 
.
It's slightly taller than a Reo mini 2.1 but holds a 9ml bottle
Can't wait to start shaping it
.It's slightly taller than a Reo mini 2.1 but holds a 9ml bottle
Can't wait to start shaping it
What style head, machine or self tap etc., length?
That's a rare duck but I had some luck on Google depending on what you need. If all else fails I usually call Maryland Metrics.
Slotted cheese head machine, i just cant find anyone that has it in stock.... 6mm should do it. .
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Understandable. As you've had to restate it many times. Sorry you had to do it again. Some folks just don't have the extreme desire and dedication and sacrifice at all moments of time.
If it's up to me, hopefully you never have to make a mod for sale unless it's a no regrets decision with no hesitation. It's nice enough you showed off your work. Not everything nice has to be in a persons postion. It's nice to admire sometimes. And also inspire.
I dub thee beater feeder
The squonk hole needs to be enlarged. buts its a vapin.
Wanted a warthog feeder that i dont need to be carefull with.
Also it was good practice for the dna 200 I am putting together.
The squonk hole needs to be enlarged. buts its a vapin.
Wanted a warthog feeder that i dont need to be carefull with.
Also it was good practice for the dna 200 I am putting together.
So what are you guys thinking about the FD V5's?
Maybe I got mine out of a Monday morning/Friday afternoon batch but:
If you're contemplating pulling the trigger and getting one, make sure you buy 3 (or hope you're really lucky). So far the bond between the brass barrel and the ceramic sleeve failed on 2 of them, which is awesome that I have to epoxy something back together before I even attempt to install it...and the one that didn't fall apart and actually made it's way into a mod, the lateral forces squonking puts on the pos pin caused it to start leaking huge by day 3...
I should have expected the possibility of a leak when I noticed that the brass couplers that slides onto the ss center pins are not exactly interchangeable. Seems these units are almost like they're match paired (one coupler falls right off one center post yet won't even go on another)...not a big deal really but speaks volumes to the crazy +/- tolerances of the center pins, where the o rings are really worked by squonk forces.
Again, if you're not an RDA swapper, stick to the re-threader/vented screw, but if you absolutely need adjustable, the V3 that has about a 70% success rate IMO
Maybe I got mine out of a Monday morning/Friday afternoon batch but:
If you're contemplating pulling the trigger and getting one, make sure you buy 3 (or hope you're really lucky). So far the bond between the brass barrel and the ceramic sleeve failed on 2 of them, which is awesome that I have to epoxy something back together before I even attempt to install it...and the one that didn't fall apart and actually made it's way into a mod, the lateral forces squonking puts on the pos pin caused it to start leaking huge by day 3...
I should have expected the possibility of a leak when I noticed that the brass couplers that slides onto the ss center pins are not exactly interchangeable. Seems these units are almost like they're match paired (one coupler falls right off one center post yet won't even go on another)...not a big deal really but speaks volumes to the crazy +/- tolerances of the center pins, where the o rings are really worked by squonk forces.
Again, if you're not an RDA swapper, stick to the re-threader/vented screw, but if you absolutely need adjustable, the V3 that has about a 70% success rate IMO
Thanks for sharing your user experience with the V5. Looked a bit complicated to be durable. I'll stick with the V4 flat-top long washer with a DIY core. Now, if he only sold the V4 without a core, I'd be happy.
I haven't tried a v5 yet but I've never been satisfied with any version as-is so far. my favorite setup is still making my own core from peek and silicone tube as the spring with his hypo needle pin and my own clamp on the needle pin. I see the v5 is using a clamp on the pin similar to what I've been doing, those might save me the work of making my own needle clamp I guess, I've got to order some and check them out
Agreed, even though I have a 7 x .5 tap the FD bodies (minus the core) do come in handy for my hybrids if I'm making a non conductive mod or have minimal deck thickness that won't take a thread...and I will say the solid 22mm decked V5 body is nice (the embedded o ring in the deck is a nice add)
While I get the Classic insert's original purpose, but as a stand alone 510, the body sucks...the head is too small and the threads are far too recessed down from the deck. Has FD ever wondered why he sells so many of them? surely there can't be that many stripped 510's out there? BF peeps buy them because they're tough and they don't leak, they're even willing to for-go the sprung auto adjust.
King for a day, FD would sell a V5 body (lose the ceramic and give it a long tube threaded the whole length that you could trim to suit) paired with the Classic insert core (lose the nylon and go to peek...swap out that pin for a #6-32 vented screw)...I mean, I appreciate the hardware FD makes, but has he ever made a BF mod?...it seems the more complicated these things get, the more they're susceptible to the forces of squonking, the more they leak...BF always seems like a option "after thought" and never a design build.
Which leads me to Turbo's point, if you've got the tools, skills, and materials you're way better off putting your energy into simply making your own 510's or hybrid RDA center pins.
The rational you use on your wife is you need to stop wasting $5 on FD 510's and spend $500 on a mini lathe, really, you're saving money in the end
While I get the Classic insert's original purpose, but as a stand alone 510, the body sucks...the head is too small and the threads are far too recessed down from the deck. Has FD ever wondered why he sells so many of them? surely there can't be that many stripped 510's out there? BF peeps buy them because they're tough and they don't leak, they're even willing to for-go the sprung auto adjust.
King for a day, FD would sell a V5 body (lose the ceramic and give it a long tube threaded the whole length that you could trim to suit) paired with the Classic insert core (lose the nylon and go to peek...swap out that pin for a #6-32 vented screw)...I mean, I appreciate the hardware FD makes, but has he ever made a BF mod?...it seems the more complicated these things get, the more they're susceptible to the forces of squonking, the more they leak...BF always seems like a option "after thought" and never a design build.
Which leads me to Turbo's point, if you've got the tools, skills, and materials you're way better off putting your energy into simply making your own 510's or hybrid RDA center pins.
The rational you use on your wife is you need to stop wasting $5 on FD 510's and spend $500 on a mini lathe, really, you're saving money in the end
My Grizzly worked out to be $629, shipped from Missouri. I wasn't lucky enough to have one available for pick up in Washington until mid August, and I certainly wanted to use it over the summer. To make up for it I picked up a Unimat DB 200 in good condition for $25 from Craigslist. The wife seems pretty convinced there was money saved.
Don't forget the cost of tooling, quick change posts, etc. Can quickly be much more than the machine, be it lathe or mill.
Tooling I kept to about 125 for the 2 of them, at least for now. My parting tool of choice is still a hacksaw, heh.
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That goes without saying, hence rational #2 (a week later)..."sweetie, my mini lathe without tooling isn't much use...to NOT buy tooling is simply throwing money away!...and I know how you hate that"
...ya see, the beauty of the staggered attack is you use her own logic against her...it's a whole Sun Tzu thing
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