BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

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RiverNut

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I have the v4 and the v5 coming. On his FB he claims that orders after 9/9 should be fine, and says to send defects back to him. I'll start with the v5 and cross my fingers.
I'm about finished with the shaping. It's not a skinny "mini" but I want this to be a little tank so my friend doesn't feel the need to baby it. And it holds 9ml, so with a spare 18500, it should offer a relatively compact all day setup. I still need to attach the squonkers, make the internals, and then I can finish it. Going to try an oil product this time :)
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5spike

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I have the v4 and the v5 coming. On his FB he claims that orders after 9/9 should be fine, and says to send defects back to him. I'll start with the v5 and cross my fingers.
I'm about finished with the shaping. It's not a skinny "mini" but I want this to be a little tank so my friend doesn't feel the need to baby it. And it holds 9ml, so with a spare 18500, it should offer a relatively compact all day setup. I still need to attach the squonkers, make the internals, and then I can finish it. Going to try an oil product this time :)View attachment 492836 View attachment 492837 View attachment 492838
Wow, just incredible.
 
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RiverNut

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Awesome work as usual River...

FD stated "return defective V5's back to him" on his FB page?
thanks Quigs :)
yeah I just peaked in there to see other complaints (I don't really do FB), and he said that it was a screw-up during manufacturing, and to send any defects back to him. I think he even said he'd send an extra replacement for your shipping cost. Contact him, from the sounds of it, he'll take care of you.
 

Quigsworth

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Thanks River, ya, his site doesn't mention anything...I guess his non-FB using customers mean s#@t, ah well, he has to satisfy the customers who can make the most noise

I sent him a note on his contact me page...see where it goes

end of the day I'd rather eat the $15 than become Zuckerburg's product
 

RiverNut

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River, great progress, is that going to be a pinch-to-squonk setup?
Thanks asdaq. Yeah, the bars will be hinged at the back, so you'll pinch at the front for a slightly leveraged squonk. I'll show all internals once it's complete.
 

Quigsworth

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Hmm...that's a pretty clever idea River, have to say I didn't really look at the squonk detail too closely (more looking at that wood and square switch)

Plus by hinging the two pieces it doesn't even need to be attached to anything...once you drop the bottle in the pincer mechanism will just float.

I like it...you have a patent pending on that?
 

RiverNut

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I thought this was an open source thread :D.

I had originally planned on hinging them with a 1/8" rod but I'm going to try BeCu first. It takes less space and should give me chance to adjust it if needed. I will try no attachment at first but I'm thinking it may slide to one side or the other if the pinch isn't evenly applied on both sides. If that's the case though, a simple screw in the back will hold it in place.:)
 
I've been using the v4 for about a month now and haven't had any issues so far aside from having to make a peek washer to extend the bf pin of my hobo 3.1. I don't use the flanged needle, just the 510 and connected my tubing to the positive pin. No leaks as long as the 510 on the atty is long enough to bottom out the positive pin.... Maybe I just got lucky... :)
 

studiovap

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That's good news Quigs.

I've had a couple of failures on my previous mods using CA. It could have been poor preparation but I don't want to risk it with this mod. I have a 5 minute epoxy I haven't used yet. Will it be more reliable?
Great looking mod River, I have done a heap of research recently on adhesives, particularly because I was playing with the idea of having a Silicon bronze to and bottom glued onto Queens Ebony back and sides, probably about the most challenging job possible for an adhesive. A good quality CA especially the thicker variety will grab and hold like nails innitially and will be the strongest bond of all, but CA is brittle like glass when fully cured, and does not like prolonged ingress of e liquid over time, however water proof it is as an exterior finish, for structural joints damp nooks and crannies lead to faliures as do movement over time as the wood expands and contracts and impacts from being dropped. I have also had bad experiences with runberised or impact resistanCAs. After researching other adhesives I decided on a West Systems marine epoxy called G-flex. It is 100% water proof, will bond "damp wood" oily hardwoods, metals and concrete it also flexes with the movement of wood and resists impact.
I also bought some copper etch to chemically key the bronze, but after much deliberation I am still leaning towards some additional mechanical fastening, it's just to painful to go through all that design, planing and building to have the mod fall appart the first time you drop it, leave it in the car too long on a hot day or in your back pocket while caught up in manual labour.
The longer the drying time of an epoxy the better it's penetration into the substrate and as a general rule the stronger the bond. In my research I repeatedly came across praise for JB weld, and if it was an internal or non visible application I would have seriously considered it, but Afaik it's only available in dark grey. On the subject of oil finishes I recently researched that in depth too, I ended up buying some Pure Tung oil, spar varnish and Terpentine to do 1/3 of each mix for a wiping oil/varnish recommended on one of the woodworking forums, but after rexeperiencing the aroma of terps and making up a mini batch to test I will be mixing my next batch with paint thinner/mineral oils due to its far less pungent aroma.
 
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Quigsworth

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Good knowledge Studio, you pretty much nailed it on the CA's...btw, if you're new to building or just looking to try something different...not all CA's are created equal, my dad introduced me to these guys http://www.caglue.com/ they can be hard to find (you need a good hobby shop, industrial supply, or if you're close to a Lee Valley)... they're not cheap but are pretty much the final word in CA's...when I bond my Dymond Wood, (I build my Pdib clone bodies in halves then clam-shell) t's hammer proof, the material breaks before the bond...but ya, long exposure to juice and excessive heat can cause problems over time...especially between unlike mats. like wood/metal

I'll check out that G-Flex and agreed, if JB Weld made a clear version, pfft...I have a buddy who field repaired the shift linkage on his Jimmy with it (why not, isn't that how GM holds the doors on? ;))...he's still driving it that way
 

studiovap

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There is after checking a clear JB weld
5 min epoxy, can't find a direct comparison review to the steel reinforced original though amd thats where the praise lies http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50112-ClearWeld-Syringe/dp/B009EU5ZM0

As for quality CA. I have recently settled on Loctite 401 for the thin, and a thick/med from a pace called Pops Shed, as Quigs says not all CAs are equal.
 

RiverNut

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There is after checking a clear JB weld
5 min epoxy, can't find a direct comparison review to the steel reinforced original though amd thats where the praise lies http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50112-ClearWeld-Syringe/dp/B009EU5ZM0

As for quality CA. I have recently settled on Loctite 401 for the thin, and a thick/med from a pace called Pops Shed, as Quigs says not all CAs are equal.
Thank you for the detailed response studiovap! I had the same reservations with the "standard" JB weld, and had no idea they had a clear version. Gonna try it 'cause it looks easier than the epoxy I have. The finish product I have is Sam Maloof (I think :unsure:). It's an oil/poly mix followed by an oil/wax mix. Had good reviews so what the hell, why not. Eventually, after a couple of years of doing this, I hope to gain some valuable experience/knowledge with this stuff. So many products and options to choose from :unsure:.

Gonna see If I can find some of that CA you and Quigs mentioned, thank you both. When it comes to bonding, I want as foolproof as possible.

btw, a modder recently posted a unique (to me) method of sandwiching pieces (3) together. He drilled holes in the plates to be bonded, so the adhesive filled the holes and created "pillars" from one plate to the other. It looked very effective.
 
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