BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

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Subohmies

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Ok Sub, spill the beans on those mods. I really like the steam crave box design & was thinking of modding one with a different chip like yours. Now I may have to order one regardless even though I was hoping for a sale.
I don't take much picture when doing this
But I'll go with dna200, only 1ml juice different between the 350j and the stock chip, not worth it plus lots cutting grinding and and test fit to get it all aligned.
Much easier on the DNA
Gut out everything and grind off everything and cut out for the Mamu dna200 v2 face plate. I'm using fullymax 900mah from evolv and fdv V4 510. And I cut an aluminum plate to slide between the batt and bottle for tighter squonking.
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laurie9300

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Anyone know how to bore a 22mm slot for the 510 to sit flush? Tools?
On a aluminum box
Thanks
That won't be easy Sub! You'll probably need an "end mill".

I can't think of any other way? Unless you want to "engrave" it out by hand with a dremel, no fun and not much chance of a good finish.
 
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Quigsworth

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If you are using a DP, look around for one of the bigger step bits that'll go to 7/8" which would be a lot safer to use than an end mill. An end mill has no means of "piloting" the bore. Boring a 7/8" hole on a mill needs to be done in stages (because it won't drill out the center) and carefully...on a DP, even with a good vice, would be scary.
 

CaptSteve

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Anyone know how to bore a 22mm slot for the 510 to sit flush? Tools?
On a aluminum box
Thanks

I understand what you want to do there Sub and the fact that you just need to make a fairly shallow step milling to flush the 22mm 510 isn't as easy to pull off with a DP. I've done it on my mill but your biggest problem is rigidity.

As mentioned you won't find a DP chuck that takes a 22mm end mill bit (unless it's a big ayuss industrial press) but even if you did a DP just doest have the rigidity to make such a clean mill operation. If you found a way around the chuck issue you could try plunge milling gently very little at a time with lots of WD40 on the aluminum.
 

CaptSteve

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If all else fails get yourself a 22mm Forstner bit, drill a pilot hole the size of the forstner bit's pilot spike and gently plunge drill to the depth you need. I assume the thickness of the 510 lip is only like 2mm so you don't need to go too deep. I've used forstner bits on aluminum and provided you use lots of WD40 and go slow it works for small depths. Remember to plunge and clean the forstner bit from aluminum every now and then because it's soft metal and it clogs up the bit.
 

TheWestPole

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If all else fails get yourself a 22mm Forstner bit, drill a pilot hole the size of the forstner bit's pilot spike and gently plunge drill to the depth you need. I assume the thickness of the 510 lip is only like 2mm so you don't need to go too deep. I've used forstner bits on aluminum and provided you use lots of WD40 and go slow it works for small depths. Remember to plunge and clean the forstner bit from aluminum every now and then because it's soft metal and it clogs up the bit.

Right, in a pinch a Forstner bit will do a shallow cut like that in aluminum without destroying it. Besides what CaptSteve says, you need to hold the workpiece very securely (e.g. in a clamped vise) and keep your RPMs very low, probably as low as your drill press will go.
 
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Subohmies

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If all else fails get yourself a 22mm Forstner bit, drill a pilot hole the size of the forstner bit's pilot spike and gently plunge drill to the depth you need. I assume the thickness of the 510 lip is only like 2mm so you don't need to go too deep. I've used forstner bits on aluminum and provided you use lots of WD40 and go slow it works for small depths. Remember to plunge and clean the forstner bit from aluminum every now and then because it's soft metal and it clogs up the bit.
Right, in a pinch a Forstner bit will do a shallow cut like that in aluminum without it. Besides what CaptSteve says, you need to hold the workpiece very securely (e.g. in a clamped vise) and keep your RPMs as very low, probably as low as your drill press will go.
Awesome[emoji106]
I just need about 1mm or less, I will sand a bit off from the 510 as well
Thanks for the info Capt and TWP
 

B2L

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RX200 converted to a dual 18650 DNA200 squonker
Thanks Capt and TWP for the forstner tips
It works great, only problem was I can't level the bits with the mod
Is not perfect but it works
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Nice job :thumbs:

How's she working for you?
 

greasegizzard

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Looks good, man. I like the look of the "not perfect fit." It makes it look like an antique, or something that has seen a lot of use.
This is the second squonker I've built, but the first wooden one. The first one I ever made was made from a Hana clone enclosure, and while it worked perfect and still does, it's not a real looker haha. Anyways, this is not a finished product, and I wish I would've taken pictures of the step by step, but this the all
I've got. It's made primarily of rose wood, completely custom button, and a copper negative connection. The only thing at the moment that I'm lacking is a positive firing pin. I had intentions of using the same copper I bought for the negative, but it doesn't have enough spring to it. Past that and doing the finishing woodwork, sanding and shaping, this thing will be ready to vape. Just thought I'd post it and get some ideas, encouragement or criticism lol. I'm open to all comments. I will say this though, I know the craftsmenship isn't perfect, I could've done a lot better, and intend to on the next mod I build. This was basically my test run to see if wood was worth the time and effort to use as a medium.
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TheWestPole

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RX200 converted to a dual 18650 DNA200 squonker
Thanks Capt and TWP for the forstner tips
It works great, only problem was I can't level the bits with the mod
Is not perfect but it works
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Ha! I love it. :thumb:

Where did you source the squonk bottle and metal cap?
 
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