BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made
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Mundy the way I would try this is first make a jig with a steel pin at the same inner diameter as the needle (no easy feat btw since it's so thin). Then I would weld or press fit that into a peace of sheet metal so the pin is standing vertical off the sheet. Then heat the needle till the tip is red hot, put it in the pin and with a small hammer tap it to create a flange on the end.I have a project where I would like to flange 10 gauge thin wall 316 hypodermic tubing. Any way to do this without special equipment? It's too small for either of my brake line flare blocks to grab. My googlefu is not coming up with anything other than companies that will do it in production run quantities. Example of what I am talking about.
A friend is in the process of trying to get them 3D printed but I don't know if it will work. In my mind the only way is machining them. I get Ultem rods from eBay
ULTEM GRA1170001038 Rod,PEI,Amber,1 In Dia x 3 Ft L
You could always make a flywheel lathe. No electrical power required.
any links? sounds like a great idea,love to make stuff like that whether it works or not. and yes I am googling too
as the crazy person I am I was thinking about an automotive flywheel and using a cog type belt to match teeth on flywheel.... you see the smoke coming out of my head yet? the old brain is in gear now. time to start drawing pics on scrap paper .
Thanks Steve & Peng. I will look into a makeshift lathe. Anything I should look for as far as quality of ultem & acrylic rods? Is 1" the best starting diameter?
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mundy I've flanged hypo needles with my lathe. I used a center punch chucked in the drill chuck with the hypo needle itself chucked in the lathe with just a minimal stickout from the chuck, just enough to make the flange and spinning at a slow speed. the center punch winds up making friction as it is pressed against the turning hypo needle, the right amount of friction and pressure can heat and flare the end of the hypo needle to an open Y shape taking the shape o the tip of the punch, then flip the center punch around to it's blunt flat end and press it against the hypo again while spinning to flatten the Y out to a T shaped end which will be your flare.
you will have to play around with trying different center punches and amounts of pressure to get the right pitch angled tip for this to work without spitting the end of the hypo but after a few tries I winded up getting it to work fairly consistently
you will have to play around with trying different center punches and amounts of pressure to get the right pitch angled tip for this to work without spitting the end of the hypo but after a few tries I winded up getting it to work fairly consistently
Ah, like the old time metal bowls were made....excellent! Thanks
You don't need to buy the eBook: http://www.opensourcemachinetools.org/archive-manuals/treadle_lathe.pdf
A less expensive variation:
Woodworkers Guide: Easy to build Continuous Motion Treadle Lathe
Popular Woodworking version:
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/TreadleLathe.pdf
If you are going for human powered, as a general rule: the larger the wheel diameter, the less you must pedal
I moved last May and still don't have my workshop set up, many of my tools are buried or still covered. When I get it ready for work again, I will take some pictures and show you my unplugged setups. Lathe, scroll saw, drill press and all hand tools without a single need for electricity except the lighting.
I would enjoy seeing that and hope you can get to it soon so you can enjoy it too as it seems to be quite a passion of yours. Remember not to put things off as time waits for no one.
The workshop is for leisure time. The old farm hasn't been well tended the past 20 years, so there are higher priority tasks that have to be completed first.
I hear ya there. We bought our farm about 10 years ago (the house was built in 1909). Although the major PITA's got done before we moved in (heat, plumbing, electrical), the rest of the projects are slowly getting knocked off of the list. It really doesn't help that I have to travel 3 nights a week and The Evil One works 10-14hr days. We've adjusted our goals to getting it done before we retire [emoji848] (hopefully)
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That sounds interesting Peng, excited to see those tools, ya got me thinking about looking into some man powered tools, however before spending an materials, I will be looking at what a cheap version of the particular tool may cost. I do love to build things though, & there is a nice small sawmill 30 minutes from me.
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I know of at least one 3D printer that can feed two different grades of Ultem.
My printer would do it, but Ultem filament is darn expensive. $400 to $900 for a standard 2kg reel depending on grade and it's still not up to Ultem 1000 grade. Not for this kid.
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