I heard that too. I think it was Mr Todd, Dean, or TonyB on one of their Vlogs that I heard it, but I cannot remember who said it. Regardless I have no solid info, but interested to see what they come up with if they are.
Boxer Clone
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I heard that too. I think it was Mr Todd, Dean, or TonyB on one of their Vlogs that I heard it, but I cannot remember who said it. Regardless I have no solid info, but interested to see what they come up with if they are.
A cautionary tale of gross stupidity from one who knows better:
Well, the white button on the black mod just irritated the crap out of me, so I painted it with Krylon Fusion and used clear coat on the mod to protect the paint from inevitably wearing off. Nice. But I did this on a very high humidity day, 75%+, which the Krylon does not like. The button stayed tacky and the paint start peeling off. So I redid the whole thing, this time baking everything in the oven at 170F for an hour. Looking real nice now. I put it all back together and fired it up. The button kind of sank in, and the mod got HOT. I pulled it apart and yanked the battery. The positive contact had melted right into the back of the button and welded itself in there. I took it all apart and un-welded the contact from the button, which now had a deep hole it the back. I repaired the button with epoxy, sanded it flush, repainted the button, and put it all back together. Again. Only THIS time I put in the washer in the 510 that goes between the positive and negative. It IS kind of important!
Well, the white button on the black mod just irritated the crap out of me, so I painted it with Krylon Fusion and used clear coat on the mod to protect the paint from inevitably wearing off. Nice. But I did this on a very high humidity day, 75%+, which the Krylon does not like. The button stayed tacky and the paint start peeling off. So I redid the whole thing, this time baking everything in the oven at 170F for an hour. Looking real nice now. I put it all back together and fired it up. The button kind of sank in, and the mod got HOT. I pulled it apart and yanked the battery. The positive contact had melted right into the back of the button and welded itself in there. I took it all apart and un-welded the contact from the button, which now had a deep hole it the back. I repaired the button with epoxy, sanded it flush, repainted the button, and put it all back together. Again. Only THIS time I put in the washer in the 510 that goes between the positive and negative. It IS kind of important!
Yeah, well, all's well as ends well, I suppose.I'm sorry, but that's kinda funny.Glad you got it all worked out!
When I took it apart I carefully placed each piece in a little plastic container. When I went to put it back together I carefully dumped the container onto a plate with a paper towel on it to prevent little screws and such from rolling off into unaccessible places. I had no parts left over when I finished. All good, right? After the debacle I noticed this little washer stuck to the bottom of the plastic container...
No excuses. Positive and negative need to be separate.
Do not feel bad about it because the same thing happened to me when I took it apart to clean before first use (I hate the residue that is sometimes left on the metal parts of China mods)! Fixed the same way, but wow it scared me.
Good call on the clear coat, I may have to do that, the blue paint on mine has already started to wear where the button is, leaving some blue streaks on the white button.
Hi guys, just received the boxer clone. Been using it for 2 days and suddenly it lags when i press the fire button.. When i checked the contact, it sparks a bit when in contact with the pin. Do you guys experienced the same? Thank you 
Hi guys, just received the boxer clone. Been using it for 2 days and suddenly it lags when i press the fire button.. When i checked the contact, it sparks a bit when in contact with the pin. Do you guys experienced the same? Thank you
I haven't noticed this so I just checked mine and there is no sparking. But I think someone else in this thread reported the same thing.
I've found if you press at the top of the fire button, it makes a more solid contact.
Lower ohm builds will arch (spark). Common for mechs.
Use De-Ox-Id on the contact points to minimize arching.
Lower ohm builds will arch (spark). Common for mechs.
Use De-Ox-Id on the contact points to minimize arching.
I see.. Thank you guys for the quick replies. So the one thing that i must buy is contact cleaner right? Will try it soon 
how about dielectric grease? i think they use that on switches and spark plug boots in the auto market. would that work?
I run hot water over the contacts (with the battery removed). Putting a stiff piece of paper or thin cardboard like a business card in between the contacts and lightly pushing the button while pulling the paper out will also usually remove any dirt or juice on the contacts. If the contacts are really crudded up a folded piece of 600 grit or finer sandpaper can be used, followed by hot water rinse. A lag in firing may be because there is liquid on the contacts and it doesn't fire until the juice is pushed out of the contact points. Generally if it is clean it works.
This is similar to the recommended cleaning method on the Reo P67.
Rob made a video where he takes a piece of cloth tape and folds it onto itself (stick side in), then wets the tape with alcohol and drags it between the contacts while lightly pressing the fire button.
He follows that with a drop of DeOxit (red, I think) between the contacts.
I have a black Boxer clone with a Pulse RDA, running a 5-wrap SS clapton and it is fantastic. I like it so much I am looking for an authentic, and may just spring for a new one from Ginger.
Hopefully I'm just missing something obvious. I got my Boxer a couple of days ago. And, I can't get it to work.
First thing I do is put a battery in to make sure the mod basically works. And, nothing. I think maybe the topper isn't making contact with the 510 pin. So, I try a couple other toppers. Still nothing.
First thing I do is put a battery in to make sure the mod basically works. And, nothing. I think maybe the topper isn't making contact with the 510 pin. So, I try a couple other toppers. Still nothing.
Same setup here, I'm looking at the 20700 version for longer battery life. Might go ahead order some ijoy batts.
About what? Because I bought an authentic? Can't really compare em if I don't have both, right?So, you have changed your opinion?
The Boxer clone has the same 510 setup as the Frankenskull clone. It works great with their attys but not with standard attys which won't make contact. Some attys you can screw the pin out a little to make contact, but the best solution is to shim up the 510 pin on the mod. Cut off a thin piece of the squonk tube, just enough to make a washer. Remove the 510 pin and place this under the existing washer and put it back together, making sure you don't leave out anything. It should now fire with a standard atty.
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