BSD's vertical hollow core Micro Coil build for ARO, Evod, and Protank heads.

[nostinkies]

I was trying 32g, it was all I have. 10wraps I think and 1/32" drill bit and it was standing pretty tall. It sat just under the chimney as I snapped it down. Perhaps it was a little too close, but it wasn't anywhere near the rubber. The legs had to be burning the rubber is the only thing I can come up with. Three important pieces of information is usually missing from posts here I am find. 1. Ga of wire 2. Number of wraps made and 3. What diameter of coil size (be it drill bit, blunt or whatever) When I find a setup that works for me, I usually write it down, this way the results are repeatable. After all, I'll need to do it again in a week. ;-)

thanks

 

[kgs-wy]

Three important pieces of information is usually missing from posts here I am find. 1. Ga of wire 2. Number of wraps made and 3. What diameter of coil size (be it drill bit, blunt or whatever) When I find a setup that works for me, I usually write it down, this way the results are repeatable. After all, I'll need to do it again in a week. ;-)

thanks

That's why I go into the detail I do on my posts, lol. Especially my pic/semi-tutorial posts. I have used 1/16" drill bits exclusively and shoot for 1.8Ω every time, or at least as close as I can get. So far, I've had really good luck, coming in on target or at 1.9Ω each time. Granted, I do end up getting resistance creep after a while, depending on the e-liquid, which tells me it's gettin' close to time to change the wick.

So far, I've made a couple 30 ga. (IIRC 8.5 or 9.5 wraps) and five 28 ga (approx. 13.5 wraps). The 28 ga. is a lot easier to get into final position, and I prefer it for the thicker juices (more surface area, projects the heat a bit more evenly and holds heat a bit better, which seems to help the thicker e-liquids a lot...). That said, I've noticed that, after about 16 - 17 ml, thinner e-liquid tend to mute out a bit with 28 ga., no matter if it's hemp or cotton, so I'm going to experiment a bit and try another 30 ga. vert coil at ~1.8Ω. I'll post again afterwards with my results.

As to the burnt coil, sounds like a hot leg. I've done that with two gaskets so far. Believe me, I understand the frustration of getting that oh-so-lovely-but-not-really burnt gasket hit. This is a potentially frustrating as hell build to get right, but when ya do, you can be quite surprised with the results. But, as with everything, there's people that like other things more, and that's their choice... So long as it keeps ya off of traditional tobacco cigs, it's all good, right?

At any rate, keep on vaping, everyone!

-Laters...!
kgs-wy

 

[Ta2ooz]

+1 for the 28 and 1/16 bit, I have a protank,apt2 clone,2 evods and 4 evod clones all running this setup and it is wicked good.

 

[phorumph]

I tried it as well, best smoothest vape I ever had. I followed the build closely, I even got the coil to be the predicted 2 ohm with Kanthal.

That being said, at 1/3 of the protank it still started leaking (as it usually does for me with any horizontal cotton build). Any advice would be great. I am thinking to install and extra cotton ring on the outside of the rubber gasket (that comes on top of the stem let's say). Is it a good idea?

 

[Big Screen D]

I tried it as well, best smoothest vape I ever had. I followed the build closely, I even got the coil to be the predicted 2 ohm with Kanthal.

That being said, at 1/3 of the protank it still started leaking (as it usually does for me with any horizontal cotton build). Any advice would be great. I am thinking to install and extra cotton ring on the outside of the rubber gasket (that comes on top of the stem let's say). Is it a good idea?

Might work. Never tried adding to the outside like that so Idk.

May need just a touch more cotton in the wick holes. That said, before you mess with it, when it becomes flooded as it will at some point as the tank empties, first try clearing the coil by shaking out excess juice through the mouthpiece thermometer style.

I generally have to do this a couple of times before refilling, and I try to refill at about 2/3rds empty just for the reason you described.

 

[JeremyR]

Screw this I give up. I've tried 3 times and all I can taste is burnt rubber. My bottle of water even tastes like burnt rubber. I WAS having really good luck with my protanks, but lets face it, you cant polish a TURD. Even my standard PT coil rebuilds with 6 wraps of 32g and P&C are starting to suck and taste like rubber to me. Maybe it's time to dump the juice and wash out the tanks with vodka and refill with other coil builds. I'm now on a mission now to find a 91% and stop this goofy micro BS. Trying to keep this thing from leaking, shorting and burning is a royal P.I.T.A! The problem is these poorly designed mass produced dinky joke coil holders. When all else fails, throw more money at the problem. (2 bucks and my left nut says the PT3 will be just as problematic at the rest of these. And I will not be giving kanger any more money!) Maybe a carto tank might be a better solution for me until I can get a 91%.

I agree and have similar sentiments of the pro tank (hotank) and I paid 18 for mine. 91 would be good but in the mean time I think the best most consistent atty is the the oddy or terminator. The way the juice flows, and juice control is great. Never had a leak out of the 510 on my oddity in 3 months. Got it for 23.00 best investment of my vaping career. If you get heavy gauge no res, like 26, its easy to get a solid twist & crimp connection.

 

[Big Screen D]

Jeremy. Do you have to use NR wire with micro's with the Terminator and or Oddy? Which one are you running the verticals in again?

 

[JeremyR]

I have an oddy clone that I vcoil. I really like it coming off rebuilding protanks and old t3's.

The oddy and term styles are essentially the same; like an evod to a protank. The Term is bigger. The Ithaca has dual wick channels.

I currently only have 32g so I have to, with 28 and a good micro you don't have to, the only ill effect is a little higher resistance. Add an inch of length for the legs. I would probably still use nores if I had 28 just because I concentrates the power to the coil. 32g is 1.1 ohm/ inch , 28 is .44 ohms per inch. that's what you would add to your current 28g coil. + .44 ohms

The no res connection is not bad at all with heavy gauge no res. 30g silver I
Started with is terrible it would break all the time. With heavy gauge it works a lot better.

 

[Big Screen D]

Wow, so the legs are an inch long. Yea, I want to use NR legs for sure.

Might have to grab one to give my Provari something to do. Lately, my Provari has been pretty much an ohms checker for my Billet Box coil builds.

 

[Big Screen D]

Really liking the hemp fiber for wick material. While it is a little harder to form into shape than cotton, because it is a courser material it appears to be much more forgiving to getting the packing right.

So far I've redone three of these with progressively denser packs as an experiment. The last is packed with a ton of hemp, which if I had done the same with cotton I'd be smoking cotton. To my amazement, even that very dense pack still works well. Now I wouldn't want to make more with this intentionally overstuffed wick because it seems to mute the flavor some, but it proves that getting the right balance of packing is definitely easier with this material.

For those that are unfamiliar with this material, read through the last few pages of BJ's most excellent thread "just hemp". http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/378875-just-hemp.html

So I have quite a bit of this stuff. In the interest of vaping science, I'd like to get some more opinions on this specific material in this application. I have twelve postage stamps that may otherwise never get used, so IF you have previously posted in THIS thread, and would like to try this out, PM me your address and I'll send what I can fit in a normal envelope to you. First come, first serve for the first twelve only, and of course this is a freebee amongst friends.

 

[JeremyR]

Only the one leg is an inch long. The posi. Should not be more than a inch total over your current build. Just make sure you get two piece top cap. There is a cheap ace one piece on fasttech. The term is good in many ways cost more holds more clear window but that will break.

 

[phorumph]

Ok, learned the hard way that I shouldn't pack the cotton very hard. I packed it so hard that my precision screwdriver cannot go through it, or at least push it back

When I fire I cannot hear the sweet crackling noise, I cannot hear anything, but if I pull there is vape. Kinda little though, so I think I choked the coil hard.

On the good side, I am now almost finished and it didn't leak at all, minuscule drops on the battery connection from the condensation I think, but in rest, the inhale is clean and airy (I built it with the biggest precision screwdriver I had that fit in through the bottom so I can have the airway as wide as possible, 28g kanthal 14 wraps 1.5 ohms). Win some lose some

 

[Big Screen D]

Ok, learned the hard way that I shouldn't pack the cotton very hard. I packed it so hard that my precision screwdriver cannot go through it, or at least push it back

When I fire I cannot hear the sweet crackling noise, I cannot hear anything, but if I pull there is vape. Kinda little though, so I think I choked the coil hard.

On the good side, I am now almost finished and it didn't leak at all, minuscule drops on the battery connection from the condensation I think, but in rest, the inhale is clean and airy (I built it with the biggest precision screwdriver I had that fit in through the bottom so I can have the airway as wide as possible, 28g kanthal 14 wraps 1.5 ohms). Win some lose some

That is a great way to describe when this is done right. If that puppy is not doing the snap crackle and pop, even if it works OK, the flavor is just not as it should/could be.

I've been experimenting with different densities of hemp packing to determine what works best. While I can use a denser pack than cotton and get away with it not getting scorched and a nasty hit, too much and while there is ample vapor, that flavor pop just isn't there like it is when the coil is getting just the right amount of e-liquid.

 

[ktazz]

Is it normal for the coil to take a second or two to heat up? Because that's how long I usually wait before I start vaping, hear the crackle then vpe

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

[Blitzdonlife]

I built this coil tonight on a mini PT2 clone using twice boiled 100% cotton balls and 30g kanthal, ~10 wraps or so. Meters out at 2.2 Ohms, coil glows nicely from the center out. It produces very good vapor, but I haven't got the packing right yet. I get a strong cotton taste from it along with the flavor of my juice. It is feeding, but not fast enough. I think I need to repack it looser, but how loose is too loose? Will try again tomorrow evening, have to get some sleep for work tomorrow. Thank you for posting this build BSD, I got the protank clone just to try it

 

[JeremyR]

Less is more.. Your tasting cotton because it's too tight on the coil. You want it Lightly & evenly touching the coil. Just enough fluffy cotton to keep it from flooding in.

 

[Big Screen D]

Is it normal for the coil to take a second or two to heat up? Because that's how long I usually wait before I start vaping, hear the crackle then vpe

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

Does take a bit longer to get this set up to temp than a smaller coil on less wick as it would be with a horizontal wick. Stick with 30ga 1.8-2 ohm coils for devices that can't deliver 15 watts. Spinner, EVOD etc.

 

[bstedh]

My big problem has been getting a cositant density with the cotton. However this got me rebuilding all my heads. I found I can re-purpose my vivi nova heads and use the wicks to recoil 5 protank heads from one with some 32g kanthal. Plus some additional o rings and center pin insulators.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[Iquitcigs]

Just done this after using micro and nano coils in my tanks all week just could not stop em leaking so when I looked at this I had to have ago just started a fresh tank of mocha in an evod mt3 knockoff thing and it seems to be going well. My coil came out at 1.5omhs 11wraps round a 1.5mm wire. I have this all the way up on 6 volts 15 watt fresh battery not dry hit well impressed.
Another thing I have done is to add a small washer between the head and exhaust and turned the rubber grommet upside down on top of it hoping to pack any gaps in the seal and so far so good haven't got to the join with the juice yet though so could still leak but the coil is great and vapes like never before.

 

[Iquitcigs]

I built this coil tonight on a mini PT2 clone using twice boiled 100% cotton balls and 30g kanthal, ~10 wraps or so. Meters out at 2.2 Ohms, coil glows nicely from the center out. It produces very good vapor, but I haven't got the packing right yet. I get a strong cotton taste from it along with the flavor of my juice. It is feeding, but not fast enough. I think I need to repack it looser, but how loose is too loose? Will try again tomorrow evening, have to get some sleep for work tomorrow. Thank you for posting this build BSD, I got the protank clone just to try it

Try putting juice on the cotton before you reassemble this will make sure that it is soaked in juice first then you need no prime time couple dry pulls with no power then hit the fire button and your away