BSD's vertical hollow core Micro Coil build for ARO, Evod, and Protank heads.

[JeremyR]

You usually have to add tufts of rayon around the outside because tha rayon will get smaller when all the air purges out after a while (4-5 ml). If you look closely you will see where it's no contacting the coil . Add a tuft with a needle at the outside of chamber or by the coil. I would do this once or twice usually on a new wick and them it's good to go for a few weeks.

I guarantee this is the problem. The coil is out of contact with the coil causing the coil to dry hit above 10... Use the needle to push the wick over to the coil and add to the outside with a needle..
Cotton swells so it gets tighter to the coil. You have to use a lot of rayon in there so it stays in proper contact.

The first post is the only post on the vertical in the rayon thread. You'd be better to check out my posts in the Vcore thread

 

[aldenf]

Thanks, JeremyR!

You usually have to add tufts of rayon around the outside because tha rayon will get smaller when all the air purges out after a while (4-5 ml). If you look closely you will see where it's no contacting the coil . Add a tuft with a needle at the outside of chamber or by the coil. I would do this once or twice usually on a new wick and them it's good to go for a few weeks.

I guarantee this is the problem. The coil is out of contact with the coil causing the coil to dry hit above 10... Use the needle to push the wick over to the coil and add to the outside with a needle..
Cotton swells so it gets tighter to the coil. You have to use a lot of rayon in there so it stays in proper contact.

The first post is the only post on the vertical in the rayon thread. You'd be better to check out my posts in the Vcore thread

 

[Big Screen D]

OK. I was wrong. Forget everything I've written up to this point. Well almost everything lol.

Intuitively, I always assumed that the coil needed to be a micro coil in order to create a airway, or as this type of vertical coil is often referred to "chimney". Not only does it not have to be a touching coil, this spaced vertical coil blows the touching coils out of the water! Flavor and vape production is much improved, and along with using Jeremy's fantastic Rayon wick discovery rather than cotton, juice delivery is spot on when wicked right. The build also seems to last longer since the coil takes much longer to gunk up. I've yet to have a dry hit, and rarely a gurgle and only if the tank is getting low, or not vapped for a long time. A flick of excess juice out the top thermometer style brings it right back in that event.

I use these in a Billet Box with a SABOT-DDD atty which uses SmokTech ARO heads. The SADOT-DDD generally provides more airflow than ProTanks and other similar tanks, so depending on the mod being used, people may want to consider modding the ProTank to increase airflow.

Much of below I posted in the SABOT-DDD thread, but also wanted to post this info here for ProTank and ARO vapers.

The coil is wound on a 5/64ths bit, 6/7 wrap of 30ga Kanthal. This makes a 1.8-.1.9 ohm coil. I choose this specific coil for several reasons. 30ga is just stiff enough to hold it's shape. This coil generally needs more power to perform optimally, and this resistance allows for use in VV devices up to 5.5v with a 3amp draw. I haven't tried a 28ga variant in a device capable of more power, or in a mech yet, but I suspect it would work well at lower resistance too. My mod maxes out at 16 watts, and this build seems as though it can handle more. Play time for another day. So in short, I can't vouch for how well deviating from this recommended coil will work, but I can say all three currently in my rotation are performing beautifully as I describe the build.

First pic is the coil wound tight and touching. I find it easier to bend the tails while the coil is not yet spread out. Use enough wire, about 5" so the tails are left long enough to grab both to help position the coil later. The bent over leg is the negative connection. Make them so they are opposing, and won't short to each other.

Here is the coil stretched out and spaced. Just spread it apart and adjust so the spacing is pretty even and close, but no longer touching.

After snipping off the top ledge of the grommet, put the coil in as shown with the grommet only partially seated. Grasp both tails tightly to adjust up or down in unison to prevent deforming the coil. The top of the coil should be close to the top about as shown. Place the coil so that the top (negative) leg is not near a wick slot. Bend the negative leg over at the bottom to hold it in place and adjust the coil as needed with the bit so the coil is in line with the air hole...dead center. Now bend over the positive leg and push the positive connection pin on in. Again, adjust the coil to dead center and check the spacing. Best done before snapping off the legs.

The head now ready for wicking. I like to use a Protank base, and put it on a VV mod to check ohms, and briefly dry fire 4-5 times. Fire just until the coil glows to prevent burning the for now dry rubber grommet. The coil will deform a bit at this point, so use the bit to straighten it up one last time, and it will now be stable.

I use a small blunt needle...20ga??? to work the Rayon around the coil. Other implements will work too. Just find something that is blunt but small enough to fit into the gap between the coil and cup. Just gently tamp it in all around the coil in a circular manner until all voids are filled leaving the bit in to keep the air way clear. It's much easier to do by priming the Rayon rather than trying to do it dry all the way first. As you feel that about as much has gone in has it should, use a scissors to trim the excess wick that will be poking up, and just continue to form the wick right up to the top of the cup. There is a little feel factor here that gets easier once done a few times.

Now the beauty of Rayon in this configuration, is not only does it wick MUCH better than cotton, it doesn't swell and the airway stays clear even with wick filling the cup. When the bit is removed, you should be able to look clear through the coil to the airway.

SABOT-DDD BVC ready to be tanked

I'm into the third tank full of Boba's Bounty coil destroyer juice on the one I made over the weekend, and it shows no sign of needing attention whatsoever. Oh, this really needs to be 30ga wire. 28ga will fit, and I would prefer to use it since it's easier to work with, but it's tough to get over 1.2 ohms or so. Just not comfortable with that low of resistance in my BB. Afraid I'll forget what tank I have in and stress my precious. Haven't tried 32ga, but I'm pretty sure it's to flimsy to work with. Might be worth a try if that's all you have, but wire is next to free, so get the right stuff!

Folks, this build is really good. For those that have tried before with a micro coil and or cotton, forget that. This is da bomb.

 

[JeremyR]

Sweet! I've also moved away from touching coils in all my builds and find it to be better! Taste better lasts longer. Especially with rayon.

 

[Big Screen D]

With the Rayon and this type coil, wicking it seems to be hard to mess up. I built three more last evening, for a total of 5 currently up and running, and essentially wicking is just a matter of tamping down the juiced Rayon till it fills the cup entirely. This Rayon wicks incredibly well. Same build with cotton with as much wick as I'm using would be dry hit city.

Using the spaced coils seems to cut way down on flooding which was always one of the bugs that I'd run into from time to time. Interesting observation about the coils staying cleaner longer Jeremy. Next up for me is to redo my Kafuns with a spaced coil.

 

[cindycated]

I'm too lazy to torch and pinch, so this is pretty much how I've been doing it too.

 

[JeremyR]

I used micros for over a year 1/2 . I'm not seeing any benefit to it anymore. All it does I make it gunk faster, because there it a hot spot in the middle of the coil & juice also sits in the coils cooking after you take a hit and the coil is still hot. Spaced coils heat more completely & evenly for me . More coils hotter - more vapor.

Not sure why we thought hot in the middle cooler at the edges was better... Probably cause we were using cotton/hemp.. And the cooler edges help keep it from burning.

Touching coils not needed with rayon...

 

[JeremyR]

So what made you try the spaced coil Bsd?

 

[Big Screen D]

So what made you try the spaced coil Bsd?

Got some new juice in and decided to rebuild some old vertical heads I had put aside to fiddle with. Got to looking at the gunked up coils and it struck me that it seemed impossible for juice to get past what was no longer even small gaps between the coils. First inclination was to try my hand again at twisted coils so there would be space for juice to get inside the coil. Man I simply can not make a decent 32ga twist lol. So then I think what about a normal coil?

Was sort of surprised that it worked to tell ya the truth. Thought maybe the wick would push through the coil spaces. Nope. Thought the legs would get too hot. Nope, buried in juice anyway. Thought maybe the coil would deform and short. Holds it's shape pretty good at 30ga or less. Was shocked at how good they worked lol.

Jeremy, your right about that hot spot in the middle of the micros too. I'm sitting at the table last night with a Billtet Box in one hand, and a Kafun with micro in the other. Both filled with Boba's Bounty and the Kafun's tasting nasty after only a couple of tanks, and sure enough, there is a nice little burnt turd sitting right atop the middle of the coil.

 

[Big Screen D]

I'm too lazy to torch and pinch, so this is pretty much how I've been doing it too.

LOL. I bought a set of ceramic tipped tweezers for the same reason. Now I have another useless piece of vape gear. Works great actually, but I suspect I'm done with micros.

 

[munkeeboy2]

Mmmm..... Gotta a few old evods lying around. Just awaiting my ohm Meter before I go wrapping any coils just yet.

 

[Big Screen D]

I used micros for over a year 1/2 . I'm not seeing any benefit to it anymore. All it does I make it gunk faster, because there it a hot spot in the middle of the coil & juice also sits in the coils cooking after you take a hit and the coil is still hot. Spaced coils heat more completely & evenly for me . More coils hotter - more vapor.

Not sure why we thought hot in the middle cooler at the edges was better... Probably cause we were using cotton/hemp.. And the cooler edges help keep it from burning.

Touching coils not needed with rayon...

Never thought about the residual heat. Makes perfect sense!

 

[JeremyR]

Jeremy, your right about that hot spot in the middle of the micros too. I'm sitting at the table last night with a Billtet Box in one hand, and a Kafun with micro in the other. Both filled with Boba's Bounty and the Kafun's tasting nasty after only a couple of tanks, and sure enough, there is a nice little burnt turd sitting right atop the middle of the coil.

I know.. I call it - the typical micro coil gunk. Starts in the middle and just grows from there.

Thanks for affirming my thoughts.

So many people are still so sold on it. It's a waste - no improvement and it only creates more work... I actually get better flavor on the spaced coils too.

(Devout micro coilers gasp)

It's crazy, I go weeks now without having to do any vape work. Not because I do a bunch of them, I do one build and it's good for a long time. Nothing - no dry burn or rewick. I've been doing horizontals lately due to the flash evapor. I'm hooked on a loose draw now. Anything less than 5/64 is too tight for me.

 

[Fegbri]

OK. I was wrong. Forget everything I've written up to this point. Well almost everything lol.

Intuitively, I always assumed that the coil needed to be a micro coil in order to create a airway, or as this type of vertical coil is often referred to "chimney". Not only does it not have to be a touching coil, this spaced vertical coil blows the touching coils out of the water! Flavor and vape production is much improved, and along with using Jeremy's fantastic Rayon wick discovery rather than cotton, juice delivery is spot on when wicked right. The build also seems to last longer since the coil takes much longer to gunk up. I've yet to have a dry hit, and rarely a gurgle and only if the tank is getting low, or not vapped for a long time. A flick of excess juice out the top thermometer style brings it right back in that event.

I use these in a Billet Box with a SABOT-DDD atty which uses SmokTech ARO heads. The SADOT-DDD generally provides more airflow than ProTanks and other similar tanks, so depending on the mod being used, people may want to consider modding the ProTank to increase airflow.

Much of below I posted in the SABOT-DDD thread, but also wanted to post this info here for ProTank and ARO vapers.

The coil is wound on a 5/64ths bit, 6/7 wrap of 30ga Kanthal. This makes a 1.8-.1.9 ohm coil. I choose this specific coil for several reasons. 30ga is just stiff enough to hold it's shape. This coil generally needs more power to perform optimally, and this resistance allows for use in VV devices up to 5.5v with a 3amp draw. I haven't tried a 28ga variant in a device capable of more power, or in a mech yet, but I suspect it would work well at lower resistance too. My mod maxes out at 16 watts, and this build seems as though it can handle more. Play time for another day. So in short, I can't vouch for how well deviating from this recommended coil will work, but I can say all three currently in my rotation are performing beautifully as I describe the build.

First pic is the coil wound tight and touching. I find it easier to bend the tails while the coil is not yet spread out. Use enough wire, about 5" so the tails are left long enough to grab both to help position the coil later. The bent over leg is the negative connection. Make them so they are opposing, and won't short to each other.

Here is the coil stretched out and spaced. Just spread it apart and adjust so the spacing is pretty even and close, but no longer touching.

After snipping off the top ledge of the grommet, put the coil in as shown with the grommet only partially seated. Grasp both tails tightly to adjust up or down in unison to prevent deforming the coil. The top of the coil should be close to the top about as shown. Place the coil so that the top (negative) leg is not near a wick slot. Bend the negative leg over at the bottom to hold it in place and adjust the coil as needed with the bit so the coil is in line with the air hole...dead center. Now bend over the positive leg and push the positive connection pin on in. Again, adjust the coil to dead center and check the spacing. Best done before snapping off the legs.

The head now ready for wicking. I like to use a Protank base, and put it on a VV mod to check ohms, and briefly dry fire 4-5 times. Fire just until the coil glows to prevent burning the for now dry rubber grommet. The coil will deform a bit at this point, so use the bit to straighten it up one last time, and it will now be stable.

I use a small blunt needle...20ga??? to work the Rayon around the coil. Other implements will work too. Just find something that is blunt but small enough to fit into the gap between the coil and cup. Just gently tamp it in all around the coil in a circular manner until all voids are filled leaving the bit in to keep the air way clear. It's much easier to do by priming the Rayon rather than trying to do it dry all the way first. As you feel that about as much has gone in has it should, use a scissors to trim the excess wick that will be poking up, and just continue to form the wick right up to the top of the cup. There is a little feel factor here that gets easier once done a few times.

Now the beauty of Rayon in this configuration, is not only does it wick MUCH better than cotton, it doesn't swell and the airway stays clear even with wick filling the cup. When the bit is removed, you should be able to look clear through the coil to the airway.

SABOT-DDD BVC ready to be tanked

I'm into the third tank full of Boba's Bounty coil destroyer juice on the one I made over the weekend, and it shows no sign of needing attention whatsoever. Oh, this really needs to be 30ga wire. 28ga will fit, and I would prefer to use it since it's easier to work with, but it's tough to get over 1.2 ohms or so. Just not comfortable with that low of resistance in my BB. Afraid I'll forget what tank I have in and stress my precious. Haven't tried 32ga, but I'm pretty sure it's to flimsy to work with. Might be worth a try if that's all you have, but wire is next to free, so get the right stuff!

Folks, this build is really good. For those that have tried before with a micro coil and or cotton, forget that. This is da bomb.

Haven't touched my Aerotank mega in 2 months due to the kayfuns. Saw this and thought I'd give it a try. FYI, I tried this with a micro coil 2 months ago and it was dry hit city!

The only thing I did differnt, was make stuff it dry. Hopefully won't shrink too much. Stuffed the crap out of it with rayon, and I love how you can put the chimney on right over the drill bit, then just pull the bit out. So far it is PERFECT! It came out at 1.9 ohms and I'm vaping on my Hana at 12 watts. Hopefully this will last so I can add this tank back into my rotation. Thanks for discovering!

 

[Big Screen D]

Glad to read it's working well for you Fegri. Great tip about leaving the bit in while putting the stem on! I haven't made any of these for my ProTanks yet, and had some concern that unlike the SABOT-DDD top piece that has a taper at the end leaving a bit more void above the cup that the Kanger stems would be a bit harder to keep the airway clear. That solves that...very cool.

I did a Kafun and tried stuffing the chimney much like as described here, then used a jewelers screwdriver to move the packing away from the juice inlets. Hope was it would be a easy way ti wick a vertical in a Kafun. Major fail lol. So while it seems near impossible to use to much wick in the Kanger and ARO heads, that most definitely does not translate to a Kafun build.

 

[Kingboomer]

OK so I have to ask, has anyone tried this with a BVC yet? I just picked up a Nautilus Mini not that long ago, and if there's a way to rebuild these coild I'll do it in a heartbeat!

 

[JeremyR]

If it can be built it can be rebuilt.

The BVC is a direct copy/knockoff of this coil right here!

This is a BVC, or a vertical hollow core, or a Vcore as I called it.

We started promoting this coil idea a year ago. The manufactures have caught on. Only difference is they use a silica material or ceramic pad /whatever.

Bsd did predict they would.

 

[Big Screen D]

I just recently got some of these in. Haven't tried to rebuild one just yet, but it looks like it would be no problem. Very similar process.

That said, I'm am extremely impressed with the Aspire BVC coils. Easily the best factory coil I've ever used. Not sure if I could improve on em lol.

Both coils need around 13-15 watts for best performance IMO. Really pushes the limits of my Billet Box with it's aging batteries.

 

[Kingboomer]

Yeah I've seen RIP's video on it, and I've gone as far as taking one apart. It looks like it can be done, but I have a feeling it'll be a PITA to get the wicking right for it. I'll give it a go once I can get my rebuild kit supplied and get some rayon. It's an awesome factory coil, and they do last quite a while (I'm on week 3 on the origiional), but they're a bit pricey at $4 a pop!

P.S. I vape mine right at 4.3V, and it does a bang up job I must say!

 

[Big Screen D]

Yeah I've seen RIP's video on it, and I've gone as far as taking one apart. It looks like it can be done, but I have a feeling it'll be a PITA to get the wicking right for it. I'll give it a go once I can get my rebuild kit supplied and get some rayon. It's an awesome factory coil, and they do last quite a while (I'm on week 3 on the origiional), but they're a bit pricey at $4 a pop!

P.S. I vape mine right at 4.3V, and it does a bang up job I must say!

They can be had for <$2.00 a coil. ASPIRE BVC COIL

A little more for the Nautilus heads: ASPIRE NAUTILUS/MINI (BVC) COIL 1.6 ohm

And of course, attack of the clones. Y'all try em first lol. $6.60 Replacement BVC Coil Head for Nautilus (5-Pack) 5-pack - 1.6ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

In retrospect, they will be harder to do. Wicking it would be a little harder, but I'm more concerned about not having easy access to the coil to insure its spaced and seated right.

I do plan on dry burning this lone head when it begins to degrade, and pull it apart for an autopsy. Interested to see how the new wick and coil behaves both with a dry burn, and ultrasonic cleaning. A bit leery that the ultrasonic may separate the ceramic fiber in which case I wouldn't want to inhale whatever that stuff is. There a microscope somewhere n the attic lol.