BSD's vertical hollow core Micro Coil build for ARO, Evod, and Protank heads.

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Big Screen D

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Thought I'd add Rip Trippers excellent video on how to make a micro coil. I've also had a couple of coils that aggravated the heck out of me because once placed in the head, there is no way to make them work right if they aren't correct, ie glowing from inside out evenly with no hot legs. Think what I'm going to do going forward is test fire the coil on one of my gennie's before installing it in the head. Ohm check before and after should insure the coil remained spot on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HstiYiC_ZN8
 

Big Screen D

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Same juice, both after roughly 15ml of use. BSD Condor with vertical micro coil on left, Ikenvape Platinum carto on right. Ferrari vs Pinto.

1233274_217360685099319_136216939_o.jpg
 
I tried this last night, but I think I was trying to use too small of a piece of kanthal and had a real hard time getting the legs into the grommet. It looked like my coil was sitting almost on top of it, which concerned me because I don't want to fry it.

Any suggestions on how to properly space the bottom of the coil in the cup before putting on the grommet?
 

Big Screen D

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I tried this last night, but I think I was trying to use too small of a piece of kanthal and had a real hard time getting the legs into the grommet. It looked like my coil was sitting almost on top of it, which concerned me because I don't want to fry it.

Any suggestions on how to properly space the bottom of the coil in the cup before putting on the grommet?

Should have a little gap at the bottom by the grommet. Bout 1/8".

Leave long legs at least 1' for the positive leg, and at least 1 1/2 inch for the negative.

With the needle or bit inside the coil, roughly position the coil in place then put the grommet partially in. Adjust the height up or down by grabbing both legs at the same time and push or pull the coil into position then sharply bend over the negative leg. Push the grommet in fully now. Check the coil position again, adjust if needed, now sharply bend over the positive leg to hold it in place. Check your centering, then push the positive pin on in. Check ohms again and briefly dry fire the coil to insure it's working properly. If it's glowing evenly from inside out, it's good to go. If not pull it out and torch and squeeze again, or replace.
 

anit77

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I tried this last night, but I think I was trying to use too small of a piece of kanthal and had a real hard time getting the legs into the grommet. It looked like my coil was sitting almost on top of it, which concerned me because I don't want to fry it.

Any suggestions on how to properly space the bottom of the coil in the cup before putting on the grommet?

To add to what BSD said.

I was thinking about quickly testing the coil before putting it in the cup with a 9V battery. It sounds like a lot of power but a couple quick taps should be all that's needed.
Then I was going to put a small twist ring of cotton in the bottom of the cup to serve as an insulator before inserting the coil.

What do you guys think, good ideas or not?

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To add to what BSD said.

Then I was going to put a small twist ring of cotton in the bottom of the cup to serve as an insulator before inserting the coil.

What do you guys think, good ideas or not?

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4


That seems like a good idea with the small cotton insulator before putting the coil in, I think I might have to try that tonight.

I was definitely making my legs too short though, thanks for the advice.
 

anit77

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That seems like a good idea with the small cotton insulator before putting the coil in, I think I might have to try that tonight.

I was definitely making my legs too short though, thanks for the advice.

Cool, let me know how it works out. I know it'll work as an insulator but I didn't know if it would help or hinder with leakage.

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Ken B

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Just also finished my first micro vertical coil setup in a Protank. sadly I only have 32g Kanthal at the moment, although 30g on the way.

Consequently the resistance is a little high @3.2ohms and I could not get enough wraps that I would like. Having said that, the vapour and flavour is pretty good from this setup, and I would imagine would be even better when I get the Res below 3ohms.

I am finding a slight problem judging how far the coil is from the positive pin, but will work something out in that regard. It might be better to keep the coil to an exact length, and align the other end of the coil at the top of the parallel slot (before the taper) which should leave the bottom of the coil with a clearance. I will try this anyway when I get the new wire. Seems the max length for the coil in a Protank/Evod would be no more than 4mm.

Old age and failing eyesight is a bugger!

Many thanks for introducing this method.
 

Big Screen D

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So is using a 1/16 drill bit fine? Or should I purchase a 18g needle?(if so any recommendations as to where to purchase one?)

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 4

Just also finished my first micro vertical coil setup in a Protank. sadly I only have 32g Kanthal at the moment, although 30g on the way.

Consequently the resistance is a little high @3.2ohms and I could not get enough wraps that I would like. Having said that, the vapour and flavour is pretty good from this setup, and I would imagine would be even better when I get the Res below 3ohms.

I am finding a slight problem judging how far the coil is from the positive pin, but will work something out in that regard. It might be better to keep the coil to an exact length, and align the other end of the coil at the top of the parallel slot (before the taper) which should leave the bottom of the coil with a clearance. I will try this anyway when I get the new wire. Seems the max length for the coil in a Protank/Evod would be no more than 4mm.

Old age and failing eyesight is a bugger!

Many thanks for introducing this method.

The wire gauge, needle size, and number of wraps I recommend in the opening thread serves three main purposes.

Keeps the resistance in a happy place for VV devices, and will work even on a plain old eGo tho is best in the 4.3-5v range.

Makes the coil length so that when the top of the coil is at the height of the wick opening, the spacing from the bottom just falls into place.

30ga is stiff enough to make a workable coil, that is less likely to separate and cause a hot spot than 32ga. I know a lot of people only have 32ga, but it simply is not very good for this application. I have some 28ga Kanthal incoming, and will do some experimenting with coil size and see how a conical and or larger diameter coil works out.

18ga needle. Think I bought it from Madvapes way back when. You could probably take a 1/16" bit with you to the hardware store and choose a nail that's slightly smaller and be good to go.

Hey, that old age and eyesight is going around Ken. I'd never be able to make these without my headgear lol.
 

Big Screen D

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Haven't tried this...yet, but will soon. Since this configuration has so much more wick from the coil to pull from than the standard horizontal wick, perhaps a smaller juice opening will allow a less dense cotton pack while still supplying adequate juice.

Pic shows the added O-ring at the bottom of the wick slot. Still leaves a nice size hole.

Let us know if this works well for you, and what PG/VG juice you're using if anyone tries this.

1269668_217623978406323_767372389_o.jpg
 

Trayce

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I'm still waiting on 30g Kanthal to arrive but I have a question: since the negative leg is bent down from the top of the coil, what prevents that leg from getting pushed up against the coil when packing in the cotton? (I made one of these the other night with 32g and it initially worked, then shorted out due to the above problem, I think.) Would it be helpful before the coil is installed in the cup to take a wisp of cotton and slide it between the coil and negative leg?
 
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