I tried that in one of the builds I made last week. Unfortunately, the coil exhibited some odd behavior in three different attempts, even with the negative leg acting as a tension spring against the air tube. After carefully removing the air tube each time, the coil was a bit cockeyed... Each time. Okay, maybe not just a bit, it was about 3/64ths out of vertical alignment in two places, and a full 1/16th off when I used the negative leg as a tension spring. That could be attributed to my relative inexperience with this kind of build, but when I modded it back to the negative leg captive in the gasket (but aligned opposite the positive leg), everything was fine. Then again, other's mileage may vary.
)... Much better than the original PT, and while the draw gets opened up quite a bit in this build as compared to stock, it's still a touch tighter than the PT v1, which only improved the juice flow. I built a total of three coils today, the one I tried in my PT (and have since moved to the PT2), one for my black licorice e-liquid and one for a new cinnamon bun e-liquid.
Hey, thanks, guys... And it's not a problem at all! But the primary thanks goes primarily to BSD for the thread here (not to mention the guys that came up with the Dragon and other, similar vertical coil ideas for other atomizers!). I'm not the only one with pics in the thread, after all.
I use a pair of cheap +3 reading glasses I bought at Wally-World for my coiling, and sometimes they're barely strong enough! 
I'm definitely going to order a jeweler's/watchmaker's magnifier this Friday so I can keep my prescription glasses on; the +3s without my prescription glasses on give me the most annoying tension headaches... 
Are ya talkin' about the raw, loose, fiberfill-like hemp shown in the thread? I'd love to get my hands on some of that, just to see how it wicks, lol... Keep us posted, BSD, and let us know how it works for ya (maybe with some packing pics?
)!
As promised, pics of my hemp wick in a mini-tutorial! This was done on the last of my three heads today, so I've kinda-sorta got it down to a science... Or at least that's what I'm trying to convince myself!
- Okay, to start out with, as you can see, I've modified the negative leg slightly so it has a slight bow in it from the top to the bottom. The reason for this will be shown in the Step 4. The coil is made of 28 ga Kanthal A1, wrapped around a 1/16th inch drill bit. It was ~14.5 wraps before tightening, torching and squishing and came out to ~1.9Ω.
- Ok, this is a comparison of the Kanger ProTank 2 base with the head installed next to the length of hemp twine. It is (I know I've mentioned it before, but it always bears repeating... I think?) 6 strand, all natural, unbleached hemp that I boiled twice. It may seem like overkill, but this not only gets rid of any pesticides used or chemicals picked up during the manufacturing process, but makes the hemp a bit softer and much easier to work with. The length of this particular piece is a little shy of 3" (about 2 7/8"), but I prefer to actually have about 3 1/4" just so I have some wiggle room at the end of the pack.
- I unroll the first about 3/16" - 1/4" like this, which makes it much easier to stuff under the negative leg.
- First off, I tend to wrap my wicks counterclockwise. This is just easier for me, but, as always, your mileage may vary. Secondly, I always attempt to place my coiling die/drill bit into the coil from underneath so the coil both has support and keeps centered and vertical while the wick is wrapped around it. And finally, to start out the wrap, I stuff the end of the twine under the negative leg, and took this pic when the twine was wrapped to just past the 3/4 mark (so it didn't fall out while I took the pic...), which in this case is one of the wick channels. It is much easier to stuff the end of the wick with the negative leg bowed out slightly. I make sure that the hemp is all the way down at the bottom of the atomizer head, but not too tight, or it'll restrict e-liquid flow. Take special note of the slight gap left above the wick ends inside of the negative leg; this will be taken care of in Step 7.
- And here's the wick wrapped most of the way around, almost back to the negative leg. As you can see in this and the preceding pic, there is a very slight twist left in the twine proper. This was an experiment I did today that I can say worked absolutely beautifully, despite being used with a thicker liquid (I'm uncertain what the PG/VG ratio is, but I'm guessing about 40/60, possibly 30/70 PG/VG based on viscosity).
- This is the wick in pretty much the same position, but completely unwrapped for the sole purpose of stuffing on the outside of the negative leg. The unwrapped section is roughly 5/8" long, the reason for that being the gymnastics my Very Small and Thin Poking and Prodding Tool has to do in the next step.
- Here's the hemp being stuffed on the outside of the negative leg. As you can see, I'm actually using some of the excess untwisted strands (which I left on the clockwise side of the wrap) to pack inside of the negative leg, thus filling the gap left after Step 1. You can also see just how tight the tolerance is on the build; that drill bit is only 1/32nd of an inch in size.
- And here's the first exterior wick loop. Not too big, and kept above the level of the threading for the tank. After this is done on the other side, there should be enough twine left to wrap one more layer of twine over the wick loops sticking outside of the atomizer head's walls.
- And here's the wick loops cut and ready for separation and placement.
- Before getting to the step, a side note: it may seem I left the twine fully twisted in its 'stock' tightness, but this is deceiving. The 'twist' you see is actually just the way the individual strands ended up laying after the final, light pressure packing to hold it in place until priming. On to the step proper, which may seem a bit .... and overdone, but every time I've done it, it's helped immensely; I snip the wicks right at the end of the loop. I then separate out the six strands so I have the three 'inside' strands from each side laying over each other, and the three outer strands sitting spread apart and following the channel between the tank threads and the atomizer head wall. I then slip my 1/32nd drill bit under them, doing so gently so as not to disrupt the crossover I did in the middle of the wick. Once they're sitting on top of the tank threads, I snipped them even with the top of the threads.
- The next step I forgot to take a pic of, but it was 'just' priming the wick. I keep the wrapping die inside of the coil (so as to minimize leaking), and pour a couple drops of e-liquid on top of the wick. Then I let it soak up a bit, followed by gentle vertical prodding from the stuffing tool/1/32nd drill bit. I don't do this hard enough to pack the wick tighter, just enough to get a 'sponge' action going with the wick. I keep up the e-liquid saturation until, literally, there's a small pool of e-liquid sitting on top of the wick, and perhaps a little down in the channel between the tank threads and the atomizer head wall. Once this is done, I replace the air tube, fill my tank and let it sit, in this case 15 minutes. I then take a vape at a slightly lower voltage, to see how much hemp taste is in the vape, and to check the overall vape quality. If the flavor of hemp isn't the predominant flavor, and there's some vapor, I'll then start vaping. If the hempy flavor starts to drop off quickly, and the vapor quality is still good, I'll keep on vaping, 'cause it'll be well on its way to being ready. The longer wait times for the hemp flavor to go away tends to be the sweet and fruity (both combined) flavors, but then, maybe I've lucked out? Dunno, but it works for me! If it doesn't for you, I'm sure you can easily find a method that works.
One thing to keep in mind with this is that I don't pack particularly tight. It's not loose, per se, but I didn't bear down on the wick while packing it, either. Pretty much, what I've found works best for me is that the twine is pressed in just enough so it's slightly higher than the coil when finished with the pack, and doesn't want to 'fly away' or 'drop out easily'. I live in a normally rather dry environment, at over 4000' above sea level.
I hope this helps some of ya out and that it wasn't too boring.
On that note, keep on vaping, everyone!
-Laters...!
kgs-wy
I have just started spinning these little guys up and it takes me about 5 mins longer to do one of these up than a regular one, I really like this setup and I don't find it much more work at all. I have my first one in an evod that I have been using for 3 days so far, no probs.
