Bunch of general questions

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suprtrkr

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I really like how you are explaining things.
To be honest I am far more comfortable with you holding class.
I know what I am doing, but you are far better at explaining.
Gives me peace of mind.
High praise, my friend. Thank you. I got a lot of good help from people along the way. Time to pay some of it forward is all. I could never pay it all :)
 

Turtlesonbeach

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Ok so here is the news. Got the ohm reader and it looks like my set up is
At a .32 obviously you were all correct on this set up looking a little shady so thank you! I have my vtc4s on the way should be here Thursday. Also ordered a 100w I stick I mean 40$ couldn't pass up so hopefully that works out. I'm getting 28 gage wire and I was wondering about how many wraps to get to .5ish ohms? And once I'm close to that adding a wrap would reduce ohms correct?
 

suprtrkr

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Try 7 wraps on a 2mm mandrel for a dual coil .5 build. Adding a wrap will increase ohms, not decrease them. That istick will boost you ability to build low. You should have a pair of batteries you use only in it, and keep them in a married pair; charging and discharging them together.
 

Turtlesonbeach

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Try 7 wraps on a 2mm mandrel for a dual coil .5 build. Adding a wrap will increase ohms, not decrease them. That iStick will boost you ability to build low. You should have a pair of batteries you use only in it, and keep them in a married pair; charging and discharging them together.

Ok awesome thanks I will keep that pair of batteries for the I stick only. I'll probably continue to use my red battery but will just make my build around .5 or .6 to make sure it's safe. Adding wraps increases ohms got it alright I had that backwards. I'm excited to get my coil now and try my first build! Also might try a lower build once the istick comes. A friend has 22 gage wire which should do the trick. But I won't be trying that for a little bit.
 
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suprtrkr

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For sure will do thanks everyone who helped me through this thread. Also the thing that worries me is the guy at my local shop built the coils to .32. My concern about this is he doesn't check
Ohms and obviously I was running an unsafe ohm. I have seen him build multiple e cigs for multiple people. Does that mean he's building different builds every time? Ha that seems pretty silly. A lot of people I see come in are using mech mods. Ha idk how
Much I trust him after this... Cool dude tho
I dunno how he's building, of course. The thing is, there are a lot of "cool dudes" working in the vape shop who actually know less about it than you do now. They're all "clouds, bra, clouds!" and they don't really understand they're endangering people. This is very bad news, frankly, but it's the way it is. He's probably building the same coils all the time-- I will bet you watched him, and did not see him use an ohmmeter-- and may not even know he's overloading 20 amp batteries. Or maybe he does, and he builds that way because cloud is what his customers want, which would be even worse. The bottom line is, *you* know now. You can devote some time to teaching others less knowledgeable, as I do, or not; you make the call. A lot of them won't thank you for it. It hasn't blown up yet, so they figure they're safe, and don't understand their batteries get weaker with every time they charge them. But I can't save them all. You are safer than you were, for which blessing much thanks, and I have done my job :)
 

AndriaD

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I can also get the shop in my town to rewrap the batteries for free so I can have them do that to the green one. Also the top part of my green battery is dented in. Is that a problem or should it be flat like my red one?

ANY damage to a battery, no matter how slight, can become a HUGE FIERY problem.

The mAh of a battery is FAR less significant than how many amps it can deliver, because if you routinely push your batteries to their limits or above, with low-ohm coils, you are also asking for a HUGE FIERY problem.

A regulated mod is one with electronics that allow you to set your power level, either voltage or watts; a total newbie has NO business trying to use a mech and self-built coils, because there is ZERO margin for error.

GET AN OHM READER ASAP. GET NEW BATTERIES ASAP.

As for the speed of coil heating, the more metal, the longer it takes -- I use 29ga kanthal for my coils, because 28ga is too slow at my preferred power level (10w or less). The more coils, the fatter the wire, the slower it will be to respond.

Andria
 
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Turtlesonbeach

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Ok so got my velocity rda in the mail today it came with 2 built coils already so I stuck em both in tightened up the screws and walla! One thing that was tough when putting coils in was pushing the coils together I still don't think they are close enough... Is it bad to have a little space between them like I do? Oh also it read at .49 ohms so yayy! But they were premade coils lol. Anyway it also came with a Clapton coil what would be the best set up if I decided to put that on?
image.jpg
 

suprtrkr

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Hhhmmm... It is not bad, necessarily, they are not contact coils. Spaced coils can be, and are, often used effectively. I'm a bit curious how well it will work-- how evenly the coils will heat-- if one of them is, and the other one isn't. Still, not bad at all, and .49 is great. Keep up the good work.
 

edyle

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Ok so got my velocity rda in the mail today it came with 2 built coils already so I stuck em both in tightened up the screws and walla! One thing that was tough when putting coils in was pushing the coils together I still don't think they are close enough... Is it bad to have a little space between them like I do? Oh also it read at .49 ohms so yayy! But they were premade coils lol. Anyway it also came with a Clapton coil what would be the best set up if I decided to put that on?

the coils need to be close to their airholes, not close to each other.
Just ensure the coils do not touch the metal topcap
 

Turtlesonbeach

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the coils need to be close to their airholes, not close to each other.
Just ensure the coils do not touch the metal topcap
When you put the cap on and see the bottom air holes (the mouth of the smiley face) the coils are in line with that. They won't touch the top mouthpiece. But thanks for the info
 
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Turtlesonbeach

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Hhhmmm... It is not bad, necessarily, they are not contact coils. Spaced coils can be, and are, often used effectively. I'm a bit curious how well it will work-- how evenly the coils will heat-- if one of them is, and the other one isn't. Still, not bad at all, and .49 is great. Keep up the good work.
The coils heat evenly I checked it before I wicked it. And what is the main difference between spaced and not spaced coils? Would it help if I took a tweezers took out cotton heated it up and squished it together I have ceramic tweezers.
 

MrPlink

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The coils heat evenly I checked it before I wicked it. And what is the main difference between spaced and not spaced coils? Would it help if I took a tweezers took out cotton heated it up and squished it together I have ceramic tweezers.

the difference is in how they handle heat. When the coils contact each other they are going to take a bit longer to heat up but will also maintain temperature better than spaced coils, and conversely take longer to cool down.

HOWEVER, when the coils are as close as they are in that picture, the difference is far more academic than practical, in other words I dont think you would notice a big difference.
 
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suprtrkr

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The coils heat evenly I checked it before I wicked it. And what is the main difference between spaced and not spaced coils? Would it help if I took a tweezers took out cotton heated it up and squished it together I have ceramic tweezers.
Yes, heating the coils and squeezing them works. Heat them and let go of the fire button before squeezing. Don't mash them together while they are on. But I think @MrPlink is right. Those are not bad at all, I might not mess with them until you decide to rewick anyway. Good job, my friend. You have done well. And *much* safer than you were when we started. I am really very pleased. The .49 is about as close to perfect as you're going to get.
 

suprtrkr

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Ok was just curious. Also can you turn the watts up too high and burn out a coil? Lastly would it be stupid to make a .3-.4 build with 28g considering it would only be like 3 wraps would it get burnt too quickly ?
It's possible to burn out a coil like that, but not easy. And there's more to building coils than just ohms. What makes vapor is hot coil wire surface in contact with juice. The problem with a 3 wrap coil is not that it won't work, or that it will burn out-- It will work just fine-- but that there isn't a lot of wire there to contact the wick and vaporize the juice. If you really want to go that low, get bigger wire. Most guys who are building competition coils in those ohm ranges are using 214 or even 22 ga, although 22 is like trying to coil a paper clip. It's also possible to go too far the other way. If a coil is too long, the juice vapes out of the wick before it can get to the middle of the coil and the wick in the center will burn. 5-10 wraps is where you want to be. What are you trying to do, my friend? Make cloud? Chase flavor? What? Try twisting a pair of 28s-- tightly, like 1.5mm peak to peak-- and coiling that, or making a Clapton coil, although that's a PITA unless you buy Clapton wire. That will effectively decrease the resistance per length of the 28 ga and let you use more wraps to make lower resistances. Steam Engine does twists.
 

whitelamont97

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Got a vape three years ago it broke. Im on the verge of going back to smoking a thousand packs a day. What can i get thats reliable and not complicated. Im 45 and not good with technology my daughter is typing this for me. Need straight to the point instructions please. Technical advice and acronyms are going to go over my head. I got screwed out of 40 dollars from a shady vape shop it lasted for a week before it died on me.
 
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