Still fairly new with mods. Can anyone give me some advice to why my pinky button gets so hot when triggered? Here is my setup
BUpton on mod getting hot?
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To be honest I don't know. The guy at the store did my build for me and it's been working fine the last couple days, but today it started to get hot real quick.
Stop using it, you have a short or you're pushing the battery too hard. Very dangerous
Not until you can measure the build there isn't. When you go up to the vape shop buy an ohm reader. Then read all about battery safety, ohms law, amp draw, etc.
Info to follow.
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If you are new to mech mods and rebuildables I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (our resident battery expert) and visit his blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.
Baditudes Blogs. The blogs regarding mods and rebuildables are listed below:
BATTERIES
9. Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.
11. Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries Part 1
* For those who want to learn the differences between IMR, IMR/hybrid, and ICR batteries. What do those numbers and letters on batteries mean? What's an amp rating?
12. Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries Part 2
* Protected vs unprotected batteries - what's the difference? Ohm's Law 101. What is an AW battery? What is an inline fuse? What is stacking batteries?
17. Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.
OHM'S LAW
14. Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.
16. Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.
MECHANICAL MODS & REBUILDABLES
7. Information Resources for Your First RBA
* An essential read and reference guide for someone new to rebuilding coils. Includes a multitude of useful links on battery safety, mod safety, coil meters, coil building, and the differences in the three types of RBA's.
15. Inexpensive Mechanical Mod and RDA Setup
* A response to the frequently asked question on how to get into rebuildable atomizers with a mechanical mod inexpensively. Includes a list of commonly used tools and supplies for rebuilding and where to find them.
BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY
Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.
* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics
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Unless you can find an obvious problem, like a loose screw, it needs to be rebuilt.
I'm assuming the button has a spring. Entirely possible the spring is to weak for the load. would also recommend cleaning everything. Threads, contacts, etc. But as others have said, you should at the the very least know what your build is, even if you didn't build it yourself. A hot button doesn't always mean thee is a short, and there are lots of ways to get one. But without some basic knowledge and tools, it's hard to diagnose without just guessing.
CRM20, your switch button is getting hot because there is too much resistance between some of the contact surfaces in there. In other words they have corroded. The lower the resistance of the build the easier this happens. Someone needs to take the switch apart completely, clean it properly, re-assemble it and test it to make sure it's fixed. If you continue to use it like that it will just keep getting hotter. Let it go for too long and you'll burn pits into those contact surfaces, which is not good.
Susan gave you a list of Baditude's blogs. If you read the ones on Ohm's law you'll see that the lower the coil resistance is the higher the amp (current) draw from the battery will be. The battery you show says 40 amp on it, but that doesn't exist. It's probably a re-wrapped 20 amp battery that will sustain 40 amps for a number of seconds.
It has happened quite a few times that shops have built setups for people with dangerously low resistances. A lot of the time that happens it seems to be in California.
Without a resistance checker or a digital multimeter you can't check the resistance and you are at the mercy of the build the shop did.
Lithium ion batteries go into thermal runaway when they get too hot. Once that happens they get even hotter and leak liquid and there is no way to stop it. This process is called venting. Every once in a while a battery burns when it vents and that's dangerous. An explosion is a quick burn.
You may have jumped into things a bit quickly with a shop that is not the most reputable. That battery is not a name brand and there is no way to know for sure what it really is and what its performance ratings really are. If it's worse than the 20 amp hybrid Li-ion battery I think it is, it could be quite dangerous.
I don't want to come across as fear-mongering, but there are unknowns in your situation that could hurt you.
Please be careful. Do some reading about lithium ion batteries, mechanical mods and how Ohm's law works with regards to vaping mech mods. If you are going to continue to vape mechanical mods, get a DMM, learn how to use it and learn how to wrap your own coils. If you don't do that, your safety is in the hands of the person who did the work for you.
Vape safe my friend
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I appreciate everyone's input and help. I'm going to take it back tomorrow just in case. I took apart everything and cleaned it out. It seems to be okay at the moment and it's not getting hot anymore. I am pretty sure it is the spring in the button like you said. I was using a simple iGo RDA before with a much higher build and I have noticed a difference in the look and feel of the spring. It almost looks deformed now and has less resistance to it when I push on it.
This is called a collapsed spring. You will have to get or make another before it will work properly again.
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