MY SETUP GETS HOT (Noob builder here) PLS HELP!!

[Lenovous]

First of all, I would like to say that I am fairly new to the coil building and cloud chasing world though I just quit smoking and I've been vaping for almost 4 months with basic .5 ohm dual coil builds at 30-40watts. I want to take it to the next level so I bought my self coil kits and upgraded my setup.

I just built a .20 ohms quad coil build on my Velocity RDA (clone) sitting on top of Wismec RX200 with 3 married AWT Yellow 2600 mAh 40A batteries.

Here is where my cry for help comes in. Im running on 100 watts and after 7-8 continuous puffs, my mod gets warmer and after 12-13 puffs, my mod gets a bit hot and after 14 puffs it gets hot but not scorching hot.

Nothing seems wrong with the bottom pin of my tank and the 510 connection of my mod.

Can someone help me with this? possibly list down some possible problems so I can troubleshoot.

Thank you very much.

 

[bussdriver]

Everything seems normal here. When you put 100 watts of power down inside that atomizer it's going to get hot. A lot of power/heat being generated inside a very small space. If it's too hot on the lips, a heat sink device and a more massive drip tip will help.

 

[JMarca]

First and foremost no such thing as a 40amp 18650 don't care what your re-wrapped battery says, read the battery section if you don't believe me.

You're vaping .2ohms at 100w taking continuous chain vapes up to double digits the mod and atty will get hot no way around that, you might also be putting alot of stress on those batteries which just to iterate are NOT 40 amp batteries, there is no such thing.

This is your 40amp (cough 20 amp) battery:
AWT Yellow 40A 2600mAh 18650 Bench Test Results...only a 20A battery

 

[bussdriver]

At 100 watts, your batteries will have to output about 23 amps. As stated above, be careful with current draw at those higher power levels since your batteries are NOT 40 amp output. For your safety, you may wish to change to Sony VTC4 or LG HB6 batteries. They have a true 30 amp continuous discharge rating; these would be best when you use actual, truthful, safe current ratings.

 

[WattWick]

Keep in mind how hot a "mere" 60 watt old-style light bulb gets. 100 watts is... well... 40 watts more.

What wire gauge are you using? If you achieve .2 ohms with 4 heavy gauge coils, you need to apply a whole lot of power/heat to simply heat your coils before any liquids are vaporized. Keep in mind the amount of metal you heat up. All that heat has to go somewhere. You may find less hardware heating if you use less coiling material.

Just my 2 cents. Not trying to solve the question of Life, The Universe and Everything Vaping. There's always an chance I'm barking up the wrong tree.

 

[dc99]

Something else is to consider where those coils are situated. The closer they are to the metal parts of the velocity the more heat they transfer. A .2 quad is going to get hot anyway at 100w but keep them as far away from anything metal as possible.

 

[gofishtx]

You can always turn down your wattage. A .2 ohm should vape comfortably between 60 and 100 watts with the best performance between 60 and 80 watts. Also you may want to open your airflow fully to allow a little more air circulation. Other than that, a larger Chuff style Delrin drip tip and or a Heat Sink should help.

 

[sonicbomb]

Another note, on a regulated mod the coil resistance is of no consequence, the mod doesn't care it just delivers the selected wattage to it. The consequence of this that you can build large higher resistance coils with lots of surface area. However as stated, 100w is a lot of power in a small space, not getting around that other than increasing airflow, lowering the power or adding some heat sinks to help radiate away the heat.

 

[Nikea Tiber]

If you feel the excess heat is originating in the mod, JMarca had an extremely relative point in your batteries not having the current handling capacity (as determined by true CDR) for their use. Excess heat in your batteries is indicative they are being stessed.
Keep an eye in them, but that being g said vapi g at higher Watts does generate quite a bit of excess heat if you are chain vaping.

 

[Lenovous]

First and foremost no such thing as a 40amp 18650 don't care what your re-wrapped battery says, read the battery section if you don't believe me.

You're vaping .2ohms at 100w taking continuous chain vapes up to double digits the mod and atty will get hot no way around that, you might also be putting alot of stress on those batteries which just to iterate are NOT 40 amp batteries, there is no such thing.

This is your 40amp (cough 20 amp) battery:
AWT Yellow 40A 2600mAh 18650 Bench Test Results...only a 20A battery

I have read this article before and other articles and watched videos about re-wrapped batts are nothing but lies. I knew about re-wrapped lies but maybe I was just trying to be a cheapskate because the vape shop I bought my mod in was having this promo wherein "free batts to any mod that you buy". I was suppose to ask if its possible to get LGHE4s instead but the promo only applies to AWT "40a" batts and i'll have to add around 30 bucks if I want to get LGs so I took the re-wrapped instead. (now I realized how poor that call was).

Based on what you guys said, I'll try to add a heatsink and switch my batteries to legit and safer ones. I'm in Malaysia so Sony VTCs and better LGs are rare. A lot of people here use re-wrapped which prompt me in getting them as well. I think I'm going to switch to LGHE4s if I cant find some Sonys or better LGs. What do you guys think?

Thanks guys.

EDIT*
Scratch LGHE4s, I just realized they're 20a. I need to find Sony VTC 4 or LGHB6

 

[Cacique]

If you can order online, there are many reputable vendors. I got my last batteries from Illumin.com. I think the main issue there would be finding a reputable vendor that won't charge you an arm and a leg for shipping.

 

[sparkky1]

I have read this article before and other articles and watched videos about re-wrapped batts are nothing but lies. I knew about re-wrapped lies but maybe I was just trying to be a cheapskate because the vape shop I bought my mod in was having this promo wherein "free batts to any mod that you buy". I was suppose to ask if its possible to get LGHE4s instead but the promo only applies to AWT "40a" batts and i'll have to add around 30 bucks if I want to get LGs so I took the re-wrapped instead. (now I realized how poor that call was).

Based on what you guys said, I'll try to add a heatsink and switch my batteries to legit and safer ones. I'm in Malaysia so Sony VTCs and better LGs are rare. A lot of people here use re-wrapped which prompt me in getting them as well. I think I'm going to switch to LGHE4s if I cant find some Sonys or better LGs. What do you guys think?

Thanks guys.

EDIT*
Scratch LGHE4s, I just realized they're 20a. I need to find Sony VTC 4 or LGHB6

@ 100 when your battery's charge is low (3.4v ) you amp draw is @ 22a, your cells are known to run hotter than most with the same cdr but as you lower the wattage to say 80w your @ 20a, so if you wrapped a normal dual .3 - .2 coil with 70w you would be @ 18a with less stress on your cells and heat buildup coming from your quad coils.
How are you charging those cells ?

 

[MMW]

If you have real 20A batteries, your mod shouldn't get hot. 100w on a 3 battery mod and you're only pulling 11A from each battery near the mods cutoff. Might get warm if you chain Vape but the quad coils have more of an impact on your heat. Drop two coils and see how you do.