Burn taste? what am I doing wrong?

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Crimmy

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Got it today. Flavors I have tried so far have some burn taste to them. I use the normal fiber filled tips on an atty.

Any tips? This is even when they are really full.
TONS of vapor and freshly charged protected batteries.

At 5v some mild flavors may taste burnt a little. The strong flavors I seem to hit the same but the mild ones I have to hit a little harder to get past that burnt taste. If you draw really slow the liquid stays on the atty longer. So just suck harder. This is just from my personal experience. and IMO. someone else may have a better solution if so let me know. lol But I do have to say this is where the variable voltage is going to come in handy on the new GLV3.
 

RedAlert

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I finally figured out why mine was tasting soo harsh(as I posted in another thread), it was the JUICE, not the GLV. FOr whatever reason....My daily vape is Geoff's Blend from Tasty Vapor. The first 3/4 of the bottle were a dream on the GLV, warm and smooth, full flavored. Then it got burnt tasting and kinda gross. Like in my other thread, I thought the regulator in the GLV went, but after PMing with Jay, it was working fine. Tried this same juice today on a 3.7 PV, and what do you know, burnt tasting. Have tried new atty at both instances, and it still tastes burnt. Opened a new bottle of my go to juice(Geoffs Blend again) and it tastes wonderful gain. It's that last 1/4 bottle that for some reason is burning up. I'm thinking the mix separated to some extent and the easily burned/boiled stuff is at the bottom. I'm gonna shake the life out of this new bottle and see how it goes.
 

NebulaBrot

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FWIW, here are some points I have learned:
Always shake your juices bottles. Especially first drip/fill of the day. Some juices are more complex and CAN separate. While I do not shake every drip/fill, I do it each time I change flavors.

Burnt taste - it's often all about the heat:
Many of us have read about watts (heat). Some of you will already know this so I am re-posting for those who may not.

Vg can burn at lower temps than PG. So higher VG percentages in your juice may be more sensitive to that burnt taste if you are not keeping an eye on the watts (heat). The following math (yea - sorry) is a generalized guideline.

Watts can generally be calculated pretty easily. There ARE other factors (volts under load, various battery levels, etc.) but for this purpose, lets just get the general idea.
Volts squared and then divide that number by the ohms of the atty = watts (heat) -- many people seem to like watts in the 8 to 10 watts range with most saying 8 watts is ideal. Some prefer hotter (risks that burnt taste) and some like it cooler.

So, in formula format: (V x V)/Ohms=watts

Most regular 510 attys are approximately 2.5 ohms There ARE other versions: LR is usually between 1.5 to 2.0 ohms, there are 3.0 ohms and 3.3 ohms. There are also High Voltage 510 attys (HV attys) that are either 4.5 ohms or 5.2 ohms.

Any atty can vary up to +/- .3 ohms

901s are native 3.3 ohms but also come in LR and HV varieties (usually 1.8 and 5.0 respectively)

Most 306 attys are LR and in the 1.5 to 1.8 range

801 series (801, BE112 and 302) are usually between 3.1 and 3.3 but there are also LR and HV varieties of some of these.

Cartos can really vary, again with LR versions various regular versions and HV versions. I am not a carto user but your vendor SHOULD be able to tell you the ohms of your cartos. Or, you can buy a multimeter (some as cheap as $5 or $10 and you can easily meter read any atty or carto as well as regularly montior your batts = good idea especially with HV batts.

Each model atty/carto will have its own personality (for lack of a better term): diff vapor, diff TH, diff amounts of flavor, life spans, etc. Ultimately, I think each vapor has really no choice other than to experiment and find which combo of mods, volts, attys and juices are best for THEM.

So, if we assume the 5V GLV2 is 5V (I'd have to do an under load test to verify as the resistors require an under load test to verify but I'll take Jay's word that these are pushing our 5V under load.
Our formula: (V x V)/ohms=watts

Let's assume a regular 510 atty at 2.5 ohms: (5volts x 5volts)/2.5 ohms = 10 watts This is certainly the upper end of the watts (heat range) and can risk that burnt flavor especially if your juices are not shaken and/or have a lot of VG in them. Some people LOVE this level (not me - but some people).

For S&G, lets look at a mid range LR atty (should NOT be used on a 5V device), we'll assume 1.8 ohms:
5v x 5v/1.8=13.8 watts - WAAAY hot and will likely pop the atomizer or burn your juices.

Lets look at a mid range 510 (assume 3 ohms): 5V x 5V/3=8.33 watts (my preferred sweet spot is between 7.5 watts and 9 watts so this is nice)

Lastly, a 3.3 ohms 510: 5v x 5v/3.3=7.57 (also very nice) These numbers would also apply for most 901s and many of the 801 series. My preferred is the 302 and those are usually 3.1 ohms or 3.2 ohms: 5V x 5V/3.1=8.06 watts or 5V x 5V/3.2=7.8 watts.

Hope someone finds this helpful. :toast:

BTW, you can use the same formula for any voltage if you just assume the rated voltage is a generalized average (again, these fluctuate with battery charge levels and this is more of an issue with unregulated/unresisted as you usually get pretty close to whatever is being pushed from the battery - still, other fluctuations but for generalized calculations): 6V x 6V/3.3=10.9 watts ----- 6Vx6V/2.5=14.4 watts ----- 3.7V x 3.7V/2.5ohms=5.47 watts ---- 3.7v x 3.7v/1.8ohms (LR atty)=7.6 watts.

Once again, this is NOT intended to be exact! This is just a generalized shortcut to help choose and/or experiment to find what you like best. There are many variables in vaping and it can be difficult to isolate some. You really just have to experiment.

Happy :vapor:
 
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jaybird

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I get burnt taste sometimes as well. It happens with some cartos /attys, and not with others. As far as I can tell It's random. I can get 2 attys/carto out a 5 pack that taste burnt, and other times the whole pack will be like that. 2.5 ohm is what they should be for a normal atty , but that is sometimes not the case when you get them. Where's the US made atty?..I would even settle for a little consistency.

BTW I had to lay down after reading that post from nebula lol. I'm not equip for all that fancy book learnin...I truly could not have said it better nebula.
 

NebulaBrot

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I get burnt taste sometimes as well. It happens with some cartos /attys, and not with others. As far as I can tell It's random. I can get 2 attys/carto out a 5 pack that taste burnt, and other times the whole pack will be like that. 2.5 ohm is what they should be for a normal atty , but that is sometimes not the case when you get them. Where's the US made atty?..I would even settle for a little consistency.

Sorry gang, had good intentions and never wanted to brain-burn anyone! :lol: But Jay's comment actually verifies my points (at least as far as "regular 2.5 ohms" attys & cartos). Given that ohms of attys and cartos can vary up to +/- .3 ohms, a "regular 2.5 ohms" atty or carto can be as low as 2.2 ohms. Put that into the formula:
5V x 5V/2.2= 11.36 watts. That is pretty hot and certainly can burn juices (and carto filler too).

If you want to use cartos (or attys), I'd suggest at least trying the 3.0 ohm versions. Some may be a bit warmer and others a bit cooler but you are unlikely to burn anything.
If you use the formula for the range:
Lets make this more simple - we all know 5x5=25:
25/2.7=9.2 watts
25/3.0=8.33 watts
25/3.3=7.57 watts
So, the entire range (and any points in the middle) should all provide relatively nice vape, temps and flavor.

The original post is a pretty good overall guide - if you can refer to it without getting a headache! :p Might be worth printing out and keeping somewhere for future reference. I'm stuck with all that in my head - and more :shock:

:matrix: :banana:
 

emus

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A dry atty coil can heat up well over 1200 F and produce a metallic tasting vape.
Must keep a sufficient film of liquid on the coil to control coil temperature and prevent juice burning.
If a coil is partially dry, burning of the juice will occur.

A dry or partially dry burning coil can be caused by:
Insufficient juice quantity.
Scale buildup on coil.
Wrong juice viscosity.
Poor wicking.
Dirty atty.
Poor juice mix.
Vaping faster than fresh juice can wick onto coil.
Coil overpowers heat sinking capacity of juice (draw to long relative to coil power output).
 
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