Burning Cartomisers? Dangerous?-510/Kr808/4081...etc filler type cartos

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br5495

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I don't care for the mushroom look either, BR! That's why I only use either eGo threaded clearos or slim 510 tanks, like Boge f15 carto tank or slim Vision mini ViVi Nova--they are the same (15mm) diameter as my eGos and they fit like a glove--with my beauty ring, AKA eGo sleeve cover. :)

But can't you see, hon? Your beauty ring or sleeve cover is adding to the length and weight of your cartomizer. Wouldn't you like for future designs of these same tanks to have the same diameter, be shorter and lighter and still hold the same amount of juice? Forget about what you have now and look to the future, gal.

Edit - I sure ain't getting very much work done tonight, heheh.
 
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Katya

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Sweet talker. :) OK, if you put it like this--yes, I would.

In the meantime, I need help! What do we tell those folks who have problems with their eGo-threaded heads not firing at all or not making proper contact all the time? Other than trying to wiggle the center post up a tad in hope it will make contact? I'm really out of ideas, especially that screwing those clearos on the batteries too tightly opens another can of worms...

Staple mod??? :facepalm:
 

Demiurgous

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Edit - I sure ain't getting very much work done tonight, heheh.
Are you still doing acrylic tubes? I'd love to hear about your process, and possibly where to source the materials. I know you said you get a better seal without an o-ring on yours. I'd love to do something like that, and hopefully have an inlay on the tank wall as well.
 

Demiurgous

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Edit - I sure ain't getting very much work done tonight, heheh.
Are you still doing acrylic tubes? I'd love to hear about your process, and possibly where to source the materials. I know you said you get a better seal without an o-ring on yours. I'd love to do something like that, and hopefully have an inlay on the tank wall as well.
 

br5495

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Sweet talker. :) OK, if you put it like this--yes, I would.

In the meantime, I need help! What do we tell those folks who have problems with their eGo-threaded heads not firing at all or not making proper contact all the time? Other than trying to wiggle the center post up a tad in hope it will make contact? I'm really out of ideas, especially that screwing those clearos on the batteries too tightly opens another can of worms...

Staple mod??? :facepalm:

Now that you are beginning to see the light, I expect it's all for nothing. I know for a fact that my idea for a new battery standard is superior, but it may never come to pass. The problem is sort of like the chicken or egg. Which one came first? Therefore, it would require a well known manufacturer to come up with an outstanding battery and cartomizer combination for the idea to take hold.

Joyetech could do it. They almost did it with the eCab, but I don't think this combination will catch on. The threads, button and housing for the battery is ideal, but they made the mistake of putting a small user replaceable battery inside it. They should have put their eGo package inside the tube, which would have doubled the the capacity. In other words, I can cut the 510 threads off of a small eGo battery and it will be even shorter than the eCab battery and have twice the capacity. But then, I would be stuck with the recessed eGo button, which breaks up the smooth lines of the overall PV. I hate the eGo button.

Now if Joyetech and Kanger would get together ........, but that will never happen. But if they did, then we would have a winning combination. We would have a shorter battery and the Kanger T2 would have a reliable electrical connection.

Tweetie, I won't try to address the problem that some folks are having with the eGo threads. Maybe I could come up with something if I had a few of them to tinker with, but would it be worth the effort? I can only speculate.
 

br5495

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Are you still doing acrylic tubes? I'd love to hear about your process, and possibly where to source the materials. I know you said you get a better seal without an o-ring on yours. I'd love to do something like that, and hopefully have an inlay on the tank wall as well.
Hi there Dem. It's good seeing you again.

Actually, I haven't been doing acrylic tubes. Instead, I have been machining them from solid cast acrylic rods in order to come up with tube sizes that meet my specifications. In other words, I can't buy cast tubes with a suitable diameter and wall thickness. A wider variety of extruded tubes are available, but that type of acrylic cannot withstand some of the juices that we use in our cartomizers.

Cast acrylic is the same thing as Plexiglass, or the same stuff that aircraft windshields are molded from. It is harder than any other acrylic and can be polished out to a near glass finish. Not only that, but it can withstand more chemicals than any of the other acrylics. The Kanger cartomizers that we have been talking about in this thread are cast from this material.

I don't usually use O-rings. Not because I get a better seal without them, but because I try to machine my parts with tolerances close enough to do without them. Sometimes I miss and may salvage the part by fitting it with an O-ring.

I don't know what to tell you about building your own, but if you have a hobby lathe and a few other shop tools to go with it, then I will be glad to help you with your project.
 

Demiurgous

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Hi there Dem. It's good seeing you again.

Actually, I haven't been doing acrylic tubes. Instead, I have been machining them from solid cast acrylic rods in order to come up with tube sizes that meet my specifications. In other words, I can't buy cast tubes with a suitable diameter and wall thickness. A wider variety of extruded tubes are available, but that type of acrylic cannot withstand some of the juices that we use in our cartomizers.

Cast acrylic is the same thing as Plexiglass, or the same stuff that aircraft windshields are molded from. It is harder than any other acrylic and can be polished out to a near glass finish. Not only that, but it can withstand more chemicals than any of the other acrylics. The Kanger cartomizers that we have been talking about in this thread are cast from this material.

I don't usually use O-rings. Not because I get a better seal without them, but because I try to machine my parts with tolerances close enough to do without them. Sometimes I miss and may salvage the part by fitting it with an O-ring.

I don't know what to tell you about building your own, but if you have a hobby lathe and a few other shop tools to go with it, then I will be glad to help you with your project.
Thanks, BR! That definitely gave me a few ideas to work with. I'm sure I'll be back with some questions at some point.
 

br5495

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morning, br! ;)

i'm sure glad that those problems are behind me, lol - while i hated spending the money the provari mini has solved the awkwardness of attaching most cartos and tanks and achieving a seamless look

Morning to you too, sweetie.

I'm glad your problems are behind you, but I don't understand how your Provari Mini has solved the awkwardness that we have been discussing in this recent thread. We've been talking about smaller devices with with the same juice and battery capacities and the Provari does not do that. As for a seamless look, I suppose your definition is different than mine.

Here's sort of what I think of as an almost seamless look in a smaller package. In other words, it has straight lines for most of its length.
.


This thing looks all beat up after several months of continuous use and abuse, but it never was pretty to begin with. It has a 1300 mAh battery and holds a bit more than 3 mL of juice, and this much I can guarantee. It has more capacity for its size than any other PV in the world.

It has never been washed out between overhauls, but the juice you see in it is almost clear.
 

br5495

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Here's another version of my idea of straight lines:



This one has a larger diameter than my favorite, and it is heavier. Otherwise,it has the same capacities. The only thing it has going for it is that it has a variable voltage circuit. I guess it will be alright, but I don't like the size and weight.
 

tiburonfirst

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hiya, br! what i meant to say is moving away from the smaller diameter e-cigs has eliminated that problem for me. i really don't see any manufacturer taking you up on your suggestion! ;)


243f9xi.jpg
 
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Katya

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Joyetech could do it. They almost did it with the eCab, but I don't think this combination will catch on. The threads, button and housing for the battery is ideal, but they made the mistake of putting a small user replaceable battery inside it. They should have put their eGo package inside the tube, which would have doubled the the capacity. In other words, I can cut the 510 threads off of a small eGo battery and it will be even shorter than the eCab battery and have twice the capacity. But then, I would be stuck with the recessed eGo button, which breaks up the smooth lines of the overall PV. I hate the eGo button.

eCab is cute--but it won't have a huge following, I'm afraid. For some reason, the eRoll seems to be more popular. What's wrong with eGo button?
Now if Joyetech and Kanger would get together ........, but that will never happen. But if they did, then we would have a winning combination. We would have a shorter battery and the Kanger T2 would have a reliable electrical connection.

You've hit the nail on the head, BR! That's the problem--you have one company making batteries and another one making heads--makes no sense whatsoever. I can't, for the life of me, understand why Joye is not making heads for their eGos. They tried once, and it was a total failure. I hated those eGo (and 510) cartomizers.

Tweetie, I won't try to address the problem that some folks are having with the eGo threads. Maybe I could come up with something if I had a few of them to tinker with, but would it be worth the effort? I can only speculate.

I understand. I'm hearing now that the early ProTanks had some issues. I'll just advise people to ask for a replacement if that happens. They shouldn't have to deal with something that is clearly a manufacturing error.

Thanks anyway.
 
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wyojoe

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This is the eGo cc that I have--click on the pictures to enlarge them:

eGo 2.4ml CC CE4 Clearomizer

Ego cc coils also come with longer wicks:

114994d1341606457t-now-stock-improved-ego-2-4ml-cc-coil-changeable-clearomizers-ckrepcoil.jpg


And they all have that little cone, methinks. This is a short-wick eGo cc.

1.1342474541.jpg


Kanger coils:

2379_2.png
Great pictures, thanks. Now you can see what I was talking about. The first one looks just like mine. The second picture does not, because of that cone around it. The last picture is exactly like mine with no cone.
 

wyojoe

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The plastic cone is a silicone gasket that seals the center air tube (the post (air tube) sets inside the air tube in the tank) and also provides a seal for the wicks.


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Thanks for the info. Now I know what that cone is used for. But my Kanger T2 is still the cheapest. LOL
 
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wyojoe

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Really? Where are you getting yours? And how much are they?

And what do you think about the bottom coil design?
The cost is 4.29 for the T2 and .99 cents for the replacement heads and I order the 1.8 ohm heads. I sent you a P.M. about where I ordered them. Don't want them to run out- LOL, one is already out of stock but I have not looked around to much so there may be more vendors that are carrying them. I have never tried the bottom coil design, maybe on the next order I will try one.
 
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