If this has already been posted somewhere on this forum feel free to correct me or delete it as I do not care for anyone's criticism. With that being said, I have been fairly worried recently about the inhalation of burnt or dry cotton hits off my rda. I only get one about once a day but I am just curious as to how bad it could actually be on the lungs since it tastes and feels so harsh on the throat and lungs. I understand I should be more careful about keeping my wick saturated, but sometimes it will be the forth hit off my rda after dripping that tastes so god awful, and the previous hit will taste delicious, maybe since I am vaping at .35 ohms. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Burnt Organic Cotton Wicks Health Concerns?
- Thread starter Arylcyclo
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I guess if your extremely worried about it you should consider buying a dna 40 device. With nickel coils you can use the temperature control and with the right set up you won't ever get a dry hit again. However I seriously don't know how safe it really is to be vaping pure hot nickel wire. I imagine it's not that damaging but I really don't know for sure. I haven't heard anything about someone vaping with nickel wire and experiencing bad symptoms so I'm probably just paranoid.
As for dry hits I think it makes formaldehyde and at higher wattages a dry hits creates larger amounts of it.(As far as I know) Plz correct me if I'm wrong.
I've almost never had a dry hit with my tugboat clone. I always keep that wick very saturated lol. I'd like to believe using higher vg juices will lead to less dry hits, When I was using 50/50 blueberry I would get a dry hit here and there after just a few tokes. But with this max vg happy rancher it seems I can get at least 10-15 good rips before the taste diminishes. And it's when the tastes starts to go that I drip some more. With the 50/50 juice there was almost no warning at all of the next hit being dry.
At least that's my experience with different e juices.
As for the exact amount of damage dry hits do to your lungs I'm not sure but I know they are bad for your lungs. Try and keep that wick saturated at all times. Your coil build/wicking might have something to do with it. I say try to make sure you got a good amount of wicking in your coil but not so much that the cotton can't move through it. You want resistance but not too much.
As for dry hits I think it makes formaldehyde and at higher wattages a dry hits creates larger amounts of it.(As far as I know) Plz correct me if I'm wrong.
I've almost never had a dry hit with my tugboat clone. I always keep that wick very saturated lol. I'd like to believe using higher vg juices will lead to less dry hits, When I was using 50/50 blueberry I would get a dry hit here and there after just a few tokes. But with this max vg happy rancher it seems I can get at least 10-15 good rips before the taste diminishes. And it's when the tastes starts to go that I drip some more. With the 50/50 juice there was almost no warning at all of the next hit being dry.
At least that's my experience with different e juices.
As for the exact amount of damage dry hits do to your lungs I'm not sure but I know they are bad for your lungs. Try and keep that wick saturated at all times. Your coil build/wicking might have something to do with it. I say try to make sure you got a good amount of wicking in your coil but not so much that the cotton can't move through it. You want resistance but not too much.
Keep your wicks WET!
If you know that you are getting "dry hits" after 3 pulls, drip some more.
If you raise the Ω of your build (or decrease the wattage if you are using a vv/vw devise with step-down technology) you will vaporize less juice per hit.
You could also invest in a rDNA 40 temperature control mod. No more "dry hits" ever if you use the mod in "temperature control" mode.
If you know that you are getting "dry hits" after 3 pulls, drip some more.
If you raise the Ω of your build (or decrease the wattage if you are using a vv/vw devise with step-down technology) you will vaporize less juice per hit.
You could also invest in a rDNA 40 temperature control mod. No more "dry hits" ever if you use the mod in "temperature control" mode.
Thanks, I appreciate the reply. I do agree that 50/50 juices (exactly what I use) do not give any warning at all before a dry hit. I also imagine (trying to reassure myself) that inhaling one burnt cotton wick hit a day, still can not be anywhere near as bad as say smoking one cigarette or even a half a cigarette a day on the lungs.
Does raising the "Ω" mean vaping at a lower or higher ohms? I am not educated at all on VV/VW or what they do I just vape my mech mod, and build .3-.7 coils out of 26g kanthal and change my cotton. My knowledge does not go past that (even though it probably should haha). Also I use sony vtc5s so I am not aware of voltage or watts to ohms or any of that, I just know the batteries I use can handle pretty much any build.
The little horse shoe symbol means your resistance(or Ohms). You said your at like .35? I'd recommend going up to like 0.5-0.8 ish for your coil builds.That might help. But I strongly suggest trying max VG eliquid before trying different builds.
VV/VW is nice. For example your mech mod gets direct voltage from the battery. So a fully charged battery is going to give off 4.2 volt. But you have to make a low resistance coil to take full advantage of that and there is no way to make the voltage of the battery higher than 4.2 volts.
On a vv/vw device: My lemo drop rta has a coil build that is 1.6 ohm resistance, inner diameter of 3mm, 12 warps of 26g kanthal. I can set my mod to vape it at 4.2 volts but it's not so great of a vape. I can change the voltage to about 6 volts and Woo now it's vaping like a dream. It's just convenient to use a vv/vw device.
Yes happy rancher from mbv is friggin awesome. Even at 100% vg.
VV/VW is nice. For example your mech mod gets direct voltage from the battery. So a fully charged battery is going to give off 4.2 volt. But you have to make a low resistance coil to take full advantage of that and there is no way to make the voltage of the battery higher than 4.2 volts.
On a vv/vw device: My lemo drop rta has a coil build that is 1.6 ohm resistance, inner diameter of 3mm, 12 warps of 26g kanthal. I can set my mod to vape it at 4.2 volts but it's not so great of a vape. I can change the voltage to about 6 volts and Woo now it's vaping like a dream. It's just convenient to use a vv/vw device.
Yes happy rancher from mbv is friggin awesome. Even at 100% vg.
Thanks very much, you just broke it down perfectly for me haha. I can honestly say you just helped me understand the basics of VW/VV to resistance. You also made me want to go buy VW/VV box mod now
. Would I also use the same batterys in a box mod as my mech mod. I have very basic knowledge on all this i went from egos and evods for years straight to mech modding and the only knowledge i learned is how to build and not blow my face up (knock on wood).
Here's some more information.
With a mechanical mod the only way to "fine tune" your vape is to build a new coil. With a high vv/vw regulated mod (and its buck/boost circuitry) you can "fine tune" with a push of a button. On a mechanical mod your voltage drops as you vape, with a regulated mod this does not happen. Your first hit is just as good as your last hit. Here's a good read: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...
Even with a regulated devise you should know something about battery safety and Ohm's Law. Spend some time with Baditude (one our resident battery/safety experts). Following people blindly is not a good way to go. Take the time to educate yourself. Baditudes Blogs.
BATTERIES
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.
Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.
OHM'S LAW
Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.
Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.
With a mechanical mod the only way to "fine tune" your vape is to build a new coil. With a high vv/vw regulated mod (and its buck/boost circuitry) you can "fine tune" with a push of a button. On a mechanical mod your voltage drops as you vape, with a regulated mod this does not happen. Your first hit is just as good as your last hit. Here's a good read: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...
Even with a regulated devise you should know something about battery safety and Ohm's Law. Spend some time with Baditude (one our resident battery/safety experts). Following people blindly is not a good way to go. Take the time to educate yourself. Baditudes Blogs.
BATTERIES
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.
Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.
OHM'S LAW
Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.
Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.
Ohms law is I= V/R where I is Current (or amps), V is Volts, and R is your resistance or Ohms.
Theres a couple of ohms law calculators, I prefer http://www.steam-engine.org/ as it has everything you could ever want to use for vaping.
The easier metaphor I can think of for electricity is a garden hose.
If you have a thick garden hose, it's going to be easier to push water through it therefore you have less resistance and vice versa for a thinner water hose. Your water pressure pushing the water through would be volts, and the actual amount of water being pushed through is your current, or amps.
So let's apply that to vaping
AWG (American Wire Gauge) goes in reverse order, so a 22 gauge length of kanthal will have less resistance than a piece of 28 gauge kanthal that is the same length. Make sense?
So say you have a 6 wrap coil of 24 gauge kanthal. This will have a resistance somewhere around .35 Ohms (guesstimating here... don't quote me on that). That means in your mech mod, a fully charged VTC is gonna put out 4.2 volts. Using a vaping calculator, or ohms law, we can figure out how many amps we're able to push through that coil, which is 12 amps, and 50.4 Watts. Watts is your current multiplied by your volts. 4.2 x 12 is 50.4.
Now with a variable wattage device, like LuNar said, is able to pull more volts out of your battery to achieve the same wattage. A device like the DNA 40 uses temperature control. Basically, wattage is just how long the coil takes to heat up. Temp control lets you set the perfect temperature for your vape.
Say you like a warm vape at 65 watts, which if you actually read the temperature of the coil, it would heat up fast because you're using such a high wattage, but it would continue to get even hotter until you stop firing. With temp control, it brings the coil up to your set temp, and adjusts your wattage to keep it at that temp so you don't smoke the .... out of your wick.
Make sense? I hope I did lol. Hope this helps!
Theres a couple of ohms law calculators, I prefer http://www.steam-engine.org/ as it has everything you could ever want to use for vaping.
The easier metaphor I can think of for electricity is a garden hose.
If you have a thick garden hose, it's going to be easier to push water through it therefore you have less resistance and vice versa for a thinner water hose. Your water pressure pushing the water through would be volts, and the actual amount of water being pushed through is your current, or amps.
So let's apply that to vaping
AWG (American Wire Gauge) goes in reverse order, so a 22 gauge length of kanthal will have less resistance than a piece of 28 gauge kanthal that is the same length. Make sense?
So say you have a 6 wrap coil of 24 gauge kanthal. This will have a resistance somewhere around .35 Ohms (guesstimating here... don't quote me on that). That means in your mech mod, a fully charged VTC is gonna put out 4.2 volts. Using a vaping calculator, or ohms law, we can figure out how many amps we're able to push through that coil, which is 12 amps, and 50.4 Watts. Watts is your current multiplied by your volts. 4.2 x 12 is 50.4.
Now with a variable wattage device, like LuNar said, is able to pull more volts out of your battery to achieve the same wattage. A device like the DNA 40 uses temperature control. Basically, wattage is just how long the coil takes to heat up. Temp control lets you set the perfect temperature for your vape.
Say you like a warm vape at 65 watts, which if you actually read the temperature of the coil, it would heat up fast because you're using such a high wattage, but it would continue to get even hotter until you stop firing. With temp control, it brings the coil up to your set temp, and adjusts your wattage to keep it at that temp so you don't smoke the .... out of your wick.
Make sense? I hope I did lol. Hope this helps!
Last edited:
That depends on what mod you buy, but if it takes an 18650 then yes. Some box mods take larger batteries like a 26650. Just make sure you buy batteries with a 30-35amp continuous discharge rate (like a VTC) so you don't wind up with a pipe bomb in your hand.
Thanks very much, you just broke it down perfectly for me haha. I can honestly say you just helped me understand the basics of VW/VV to resistance. You also made me want to go buy VW/VV box mod now
Yay! Knowledge is a good thing. As far as the burnt flavor, though, definitely raise the VG level on your juice, as switching from mechs to regulated mods alone is not going to keep the wicks wet
idk if this helps, but I use drippers, and the juice is around 88-90% vg, with 3% pg-based nicotine, rest flavor. That burnt flavor happened a couple of months ago, and it was awful. Can't see dealing with it on a daily basis.
Last edited:
There are a few questions I would ask in response to this as well as a couple points I could offer -
I dont know that much about what happens when you dry hit.
But I do know quite a bit about organic
Esp. Organic vs. Conventional agriculture..which is where my concern would be rooted.
Conventional cotton farming uses genetically modified seeds, is treated with nasty herbicides, fungicides, pesticides, ( more than any other crop) plus fertilizers, defoliants + a host of other nastiness that's involved in non-sustainble growth to harvest practices.
+ then treated w/ toxins pre-market.
( all of which you'd logically be exposed to if it was part of your vape set up )
Organic cotton farming is based on a fundamental respect for the environment and the people,
Ie.non-GMOseeds and biodynamicprinciples of sustainability and care- ( eliminating the need for chemicalpoisons)
Fabric is finished w/nontoxic dyes& bleaching methods.
So the questions become-
whom is producing this cotton and where,
and to what standard is it being called 'organic',
In some places textile / fabric doesnt have to be certified in order to use the claim organic.
meaning something could say organic and not be.
Or it could say organic and only actually be a small percentage organic.
Or it could be 100% organic and still be bleached or dyed.
Bit of a conundrum at an overall really,
As it is with all that we ingest/imbibe/
I dont know that much about what happens when you dry hit.
But I do know quite a bit about organic
Esp. Organic vs. Conventional agriculture..which is where my concern would be rooted.
Conventional cotton farming uses genetically modified seeds, is treated with nasty herbicides, fungicides, pesticides, ( more than any other crop) plus fertilizers, defoliants + a host of other nastiness that's involved in non-sustainble growth to harvest practices.
+ then treated w/ toxins pre-market.
( all of which you'd logically be exposed to if it was part of your vape set up )
Organic cotton farming is based on a fundamental respect for the environment and the people,
Ie.non-GMOseeds and biodynamicprinciples of sustainability and care- ( eliminating the need for chemicalpoisons)
Fabric is finished w/nontoxic dyes& bleaching methods.
So the questions become-
whom is producing this cotton and where,
and to what standard is it being called 'organic',
In some places textile / fabric doesnt have to be certified in order to use the claim organic.
meaning something could say organic and not be.
Or it could say organic and only actually be a small percentage organic.
Or it could be 100% organic and still be bleached or dyed.
Bit of a conundrum at an overall really,
As it is with all that we ingest/imbibe/
- Status
Similar threads
