Burnt Taste while Vaping

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vmtorres1

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No disrespect intended, but some of those statements are the inverse of the way it really is..... I was an electronics engineer in my younger years before becoming disabled and so I know lots about electricity/circuits ....

Here is the way it really is -----> The heating of any type of wire is entirely due to current flow (amperage). Current flow (or electrons) flowing through a wire collide with the atomic structure of the wire, which in turn creates heat from the friction of the electrons colliding with the atomic structure of the wire. The more current flow (electrons) that you push through a wire, then the hotter that wire will become. Eventually a point will be reached when the wire will glow red hot and if enough current is pushed through the wire, then it will burn in half. Resistance (measured in ohms) is the ability for any natural substance to resist the flow of current through it. The higher a resistance that something has, the more it willl resist current traveling through it and then the less amount of electrons that it will be allowed to pass through it. Wires/coils all have a certain amount of resistance to electricity. The higher the resistance, the lower the current (electrons) will be allowed to pass through it and the cooler the wire will be.

This is the reason why most cloud chucking sub ohm tanks have low resistance coils. It is because low resistance coils will not restrict the flow of electricity very much and so a greater amount of current will flow through them. A greater current, will of course, cause the coils to get hotter which in turn will cause more vapor to be produced.

Lower power devices usually have higher resistance coils to restrict the flow of electricity through them. This means that they will not get nearly as hot as a low resistance coil and will therefore run fairly cool and produce less vapor.

So if you increase the resistance of your coils then you will get less current flow and less vapor provided that you didn't change any settings. If you wanted more vapor then you would have to INCREASE (not decrease) the power applied to your coil in order to force more current flow through the higher restrictive coils. In other words, if you increase the resistance of your coils, then you must increase the voltage applied across the coils in order for the current to remain the same and not go down.

Lots of folks get confused about the term "Volts or voltage" .......... This term is not physical electricity....... It is the measure of the "pressure" (electromotive force) used to push electrons through a wire, coil, or any other substance. The higher the pressure (volts), the more current that will be forced to go through a wire/coil no matter what the resistance is.......... In other words, you can vary the amount of electricity that travels through a coil by either varying it's resistance or by varying the voltage that is applied to the coil.

So, if you have increased your coil resistance, then you will need to apply more Voltage to the coil if you desire the same amount of current you had before you increased the coil resistance.
Thank you for setting me strait! No offense taken at all
 
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dcfluegel

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Friends, I think I've burnt out that coil. I think maybe the wattage was high, and I guess it burnt out. Epic fail and struggle of today.
I have a RBA 0.5ohm coil left, which i shall try to install tomorrow. So, I'll prime it, and get it ready. At what watts should I start with?
make sure that rascal is wicked - not sure if the rba decks are shipping wicked or not - should definitely already have a coil in it (and your kit should have come with a cotton pad - you may need to wick it yourself, but there are some good vids on youtube about wicking - not too crazy an endeavor... just make sure you DO get cotton in/covering the side wicking holes in the rba barrel/ body)
 

AXIOM_1

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  • Jul 6, 2015
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    Not to change the subject and speaking of burnt coils....... It's happened to me a bunch of times when rebuilding my coils. You would think being an EE that sort of thing would never happen to myself.......... But, it must be realized there are other factors involved when it comes to heat of wire (coils) besides just electricity. For example: When I first started rebuilding RDA coils I would puff on them for half a day or so and then the coils would burn in half. The fastest this happened was when I rebuilt some coils and within an hour the coils burnt out. At first, I was taken back because I knew coils should last lots longer than that............. So, I did the math with the coil configuration and wire size I was using and sure enough, the coils should not have burned up and so I then knew I had some other causation at work.......... After pondering on the situation for a bit I quickly discovered what the problems was........... It had to do with HEAT DISSIPATION..... It's like this concerning coils or wires.......... When you pass enough current through them to the point where they start to glow red, if you leave it that way for very long (too many seconds) then they will burn in half. So in effect, what wicking does (because it is physically in contact with the coil) is more than just provide vapor production. I also acts like a heat conduit that keeps your coils cool enough by acting like a heat dissipation device. In other words, it acts much like a heat sink that you would find on a high power transistor or cpu processor. Without a heat sink around a high power transistor it will burn up in short order from getting too hot. The heat sink helps dissipate the heat so that the transistor can stay cooler. It is the exact same with wicking combined with juice. Once I figured this out, I not only threaded the wicking through my coils but also around the leads that go to the coil, which is where it was always burning in half......... I have not had a problem since that time.
     

    vmtorres1

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    Jun 15, 2015
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    Not to change the subject and speaking of burnt coils....... It's happened to me a bunch of times when rebuilding my coils. You would think being an EE that sort of thing would never happen to myself.......... But, it must be realized there are other factors involved when it comes to heat of wire (coils) besides just electricity. For example: When I first started rebuilding RDA coils I would puff on them for half a day or so and then the coils would burn in half. The fastest this happened was when I rebuilt some coils and within an hour the coils burnt out. At first, I was taken back because I knew coils should last lots longer than that............. So, I did the math with the coil configuration and wire size I was using and sure enough, the coils should not have burned up and so I then knew I had some other causation at work.......... After pondering on the situation for a bit I quickly discovered what the problems was........... It had to do with HEAT DISSIPATION..... It's like this concerning coils or wires.......... When you pass enough current through them to the point where they start to glow red, if you leave it that way for very long (too many seconds) then they will burn in half. So in effect, what wicking does (because it is physically in contact with the coil) is more than just provide vapor production. I also acts like a heat conduit that keeps your coils cool enough by acting like a heat dissipation device. In other words, it acts much like a heat sink that you would find on a high power transistor or cpu processor. Without a heat sink around a high power transistor it will burn up in short order from getting too hot. The heat sink helps dissipate the heat so that the transistor can stay cooler. It is the exact same with wicking combined with juice. Once I figured this out, I not only threaded the wicking through my coils but also around the leads that go to the coil, which is where it was always burning in half......... I have not had a problem since that time.

    Hello @AXIOM_1 , earlier today I posted this on this question and would love to hear your take on it, if you don't mind

    Questions about the IPV 4s... volts, watts and jouls... ohm my? | E-Cigarette Forum

    Thanks
     

    edyle

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    Friends, I think I've burnt out that coil. I think maybe the wattage was high, and I guess it burnt out. Epic fail and struggle of today.
    I have a RBA 0.5ohm coil left, which i shall try to install tomorrow. So, I'll prime it, and get it ready. At what watts should I start with?

    Start low and move up.
    Even after you find you have reached the sweet spot, if you end up chain vaping on it constantly, the wick might not keep up and you end up with some burning, then you have to reduce wattage.
    There might be a wattage rating stamped on the coil head on on the paperwork provided with the tank.
     

    dhood

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    I personally think the Evic is one of the slickest vaporizers on the market. However, I was taken aback when Busardo posted this little snippet:

    Taste Your Juice | EVIC-VT HEADS UP…

    Unless your coil is thoroughly wicked and wet, you may have an issue with the ramp up on the wattage. Especially on the first hit. I don't know if this is a problem with all Evics, but it was with his. Half a second at 30 watts is enough to fry the juice off most higher ohm coils.
     

    Kitz27

    Full Member
    Jul 21, 2015
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    no reason to feel stupid at all - we all had to learn this somewhere - you always want to prime the coil, generally by putting 2-4 drops of juice directly onto the cotton part of the coil after you install it, before you put tank back together (generally, i prime coil, fill tank, reassemble, then wait a couple minutes to let it wick - will also usually do a couple of 'primer pulls' - cover airflow holes with fingers and take a couple tokes WITHOUT hitting the firing button to help pull juice into wicking - you should see a couple small air bubbles come up from the holes in side of coil head)
    Thanks alot, that's helpful. :D I shall do it properly this time.
     
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    Kitz27

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    Jul 21, 2015
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    do you know if you are using the horizontal coil (if you look in top, will see coil running side to side) or vertical coil (if you look in top, will see pretty much straight through coil to bottom pin, big ol' air hole down the middle)?
    the one i burnt out was a vertical coil. now i have a 0.5ohm RBA, its a horizontal coil.
     

    Kitz27

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    Jul 21, 2015
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    make sure that rascal is wicked - not sure if the rba decks are shipping wicked or not - should definitely already have a coil in it (and your kit should have come with a cotton pad - you may need to wick it yourself, but there are some good vids on youtube about wicking - not too crazy an endeavor... just make sure you DO get cotton in/covering the side wicking holes in the rba barrel/ body)
    i just opened it, its not wicked. I shall attempt to wick it now. hopefully all goes well, haha. and yes, i have the cotton. Get cotton in/ covering the side wicking holes in the rba. got it. thanks
     

    mediocre toker

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    Remember this for the future.
    You will always get a burnt taste (dry hits) if your wick cannot keep up with the amount of vapour your coil wants to evaporate.
    The way to prevent dry hits is to have great wicking and as big a surface area of coil as you can manage. It's not really anything to do with ohms or volts.
    I get great throat hits, massive clouds and great taste from 1.2 ohms and 15 watts. But then I haven't bought a manufactured coil for years.
    I don't know if you can rebuild your own coils on you protank mini. I know you used to be able to but they've probably redesigned the tank to make this impossible. Try youtubing a protank mini rebuild vid and buy some kanthol wire and Cotton wool. Wrap around a 3 mm drill bit. To find out how many wraps you need simply download the vapers toolbox off of the playstore.
    Go play with some coils and you'll never look back. You can make your own for 5 pence each
     

    Kitz27

    Full Member
    Jul 21, 2015
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    Remember this for the future.
    You will always get a burnt taste (dry hits) if your wick cannot keep up with the amount of vapour your coil wants to evaporate.
    The way to prevent dry hits is to have great wicking and as big a surface area of coil as you can manage. It's not really anything to do with ohms or volts.
    I get great throat hits, massive clouds and great taste from 1.2 ohms and 15 watts. But then I haven't bought a manufactured coil for years.
    I don't know if you can rebuild your own coils on you protank mini. I know you used to be able to but they've probably redesigned the tank to make this impossible. Try youtubing a protank mini rebuild vid and buy some kanthol wire and Cotton wool. Wrap around a 3 mm drill bit. To find out how many wraps you need simply download the vapers toolbox off of the playstore.
    Go play with some coils and you'll never look back. You can make your own for 5 pence each
    hey, i just checked out the name of the tank i have, its a kanger mini rba plus. and yes i can rebuild for it. thanks for the advice, i'll surely look into it and i try to make one. :D
     

    zoiDman

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    thanks guys for all the advice! <3 I've wicked the rba, and it's working really nice. Super happy!

    Good to Hear.

    The 1st time you build an RBA section it can seem like a Lot of Work. Or a Pain. But after you do it 3 or 4 Times, you kinda get the Tech down. And Learn/Find all the Tips and Tricks to doing it.

    Let use Know how you like the RBA Section vs. the OCC Heads.
     

    XeniaVaper

    Senior Member
    Aug 13, 2015
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    i just opened it, its not wicked. I shall attempt to wick it now. hopefully all goes well, haha. and yes, i have the cotton. Get cotton in/ covering the side wicking holes in the rba. got it. thanks
    sorry to drag up a dead thread, but I came across this while pondering about why my subtank taste burnt when I turn up the power.
    anyway... How the f*** did you manage to even hit it with no wick? Not being mean here, I'm seriously curious. Didn't the Lewis just rush through the holes when you screwed it in?
     
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