Button question on my new SS?

[blackwater]

I am loving my new SS to the point where I'm thinking of selling off my 2011 Nickel GGTS and UFS.

But... I am noticing that compared to my Nickel I do get different amounts of vapor from my SS depending on how hard I push the button. Compared to my Nickel GG where no matter how hard or soft I push the button I get the same huge vapor.

I have waited to ask because I didn't want to think I had a problem with my new SS GGTS and maybe I don't. Can anyone shed light on this for me?

Thanks to my GG family in advance!

Chris

 

[Para]

See how much voltage is at the connection by hooking up a volt meter or your multimeter to the GGTS and check it; with and w/o load.

 

[RippleInStillWater]

Are your posts or button dirty/oily? Clean the surfaces and dab a little noalox on them, sometimes that's all it is for me.

 

[blackwater]

Thanks guys,
I don't have either of what you want me to use to test. Sorry, I know I should. I'm using the same large 3.7's and short 3.7's as I use in my nickel. Wondering if I should exchange the bottom cap of the nickel and put it on the SS? Maybe I'll see the results that I'm used to.
Any other people noticing what I'm noticing? Maybe I'm vapor drunk
Love you guys!

Chris

 

[Major]

Bear with me as I am an electrical idiot but my experience may apply to your experience. I wanted to increase the length of the button throw on my SS GGTS slightly so Imeo shared with me that taking no more than 0.5mm off of the bottom of the button post that contacts the center post of the cap would work.

Not only did that give me the tad more throw I wanted but I swear it made the connection better and the vapor production increase. I'm sure some the the experts could explain why but all I know is it worked for me. I am purely guessing here but perhaps the sanding of the button bottom post made for a better connection as thus a better completed circuit when pressed.

As I understand it, all the button does on contact is complete the circuit needed for power to the atty and if pressing harder gives you a better connection I am thinking cleaning it as Ripple suggested or slightly shortening it as I did (exposing the pure brass under the nickel) would give you a beter completed circuit when pressed without having to add pressure. If none of that makes sense, I am sure it's my poor explanation!

 

[dspin]

I am thinking just cleaning button contact, top of post, spring. Take apart button and clean also. My SS hits as well as my Nickle.

 

[blackwater]

Bear with me as I am an electrical idiot but my experience may apply to your experience. I wanted to increase the length of the button throw on my SS GGTS slightly so Imeo shared with me that taking no more than 0.5mm off of the bottom of the button post that contacts the center post of the cap would work.

Not only did that give me the tad more throw I wanted but I swear it made the connection better and the vapor production increase. I'm sure some the the experts could explain why but all I know is it worked for me. I am purely guessing here but perhaps the sanding of the button bottom post made for a better connection as thus a better completed circuit when pressed.

As I understand it, all the button does on contact is complete the circuit needed for power to the atty and if pressing harder gives you a better connection I am thinking cleaning it as Ripple suggested or slightly shortening it as I did (exposing the pure brass under the nickel) would give you a beter completed circuit when pressed without having to add pressure. If none of that makes sense, I am sure it's my poor explanation!

Thanks Major and everyone else. I'm trying to get the button off but it won't budge. Haven't had it off before on the SS so not sure why it would be stuck. Once I get it off I'll clean it and maybe sand.

Chris

 

[imeothanasis]

Its not stuck, its threaded hard black. Put a little more force and it will open

 

[Para]

Thanks Major and everyone else. I'm trying to get the button off but it won't budge. Haven't had it off before on the SS so not sure why it would be stuck. Once I get it off I'll clean it and maybe sand.

Chris

Which are you having problems with.....getting the button/switch assembly off the tube or taking the button/switch apart?

 

[Poppa D]

I suspect the threads on the tube are dirty. When you push hard, the tube shifts creating a better contact.
Try cleaning the threads for the telescopic tube, male and female, put them back together dry and see if your consistency returns.

I am loving my new SS to the point where I'm thinking of selling off my 2011 Nickel GGTS and UFS.

But... I am noticing that compared to my Nickel I do get different amounts of vapor from my SS depending on how hard I push the button. Compared to my Nickel GG where no matter how hard or soft I push the button I get the same huge vapor.

I have waited to ask because I didn't want to think I had a problem with my new SS GGTS and maybe I don't. Can anyone shed light on this for me?

Thanks to my GG family in advance!

Chris

 

[blackwater]

Thanks everyone. I was having trouble getting the button off the tube but with a bit more muscle I got the button off. Removed the center post and spring and threw them and the button and the Telescope tubes in the ultrasonic for 15 minutes with mild soapy warm water. The water looked really dirty after and the spring and everything else looked new and shiny.
Problem solved.

Thanks again guys!

Chris

 

[fright88]

Nice glad you got her worked out.

 

[dspin]

Glad you got it taken care of. As of today, nothing better than the new SS GGTS - IMO

 

[Major]

I second that emotion there dspin!

 

[wfarrar33]

just ordered mine yesterday and already got shipping notice!!

Glad you got it taken care of. As of today, nothing better than the new SS GGTS - IMO

 

[APM]

Glad you got it taken care of. As of today, nothing better than the new SS GGTS - IMO

i totally AGREE!

 

[MrKrinkle]

try a lil dielectric grease just on the post of the bottom battery cap I did this when I first got it and have had nothing but consistent constant vapor using a 18650 3.7 3000mah & my 14500 3.7v 900mah batteries...

Dielectric grease is like a vasoline type grease but is used mostly for the electrical connections in automotive headlights... it not only prevents corrosion but is conductive which is why I say to only apply this grease to the bottom battery post where the button meets to complete the circuit... this should help... also keep in mind a lil goes a long way so only a thin coat needs to be applied around the post...

 

[jlodvo]

i thought Dielectric grease is non conductive?

 

[dspin]

I use Silver Conductive Grease CW 7100 thanks to Col. Gaunt - I warn you it will heat up the TS if you use more than a tad on the button post and top of fuse post. Don't go any higher than that.

Silver Conductive Grease, Syringe Dispensing, Size 6.5 g, Size/Net Weight 6.5 g, Color Silver, Temp Range -70 to 485 F, Silicone Base, Electrically and Thermally Conductive Grease, For Maximizing Electrical Conductivity In Electrical Circuits, Protecting Connections and Maximizing Thermal Conductivity In Heat Sink Applications
Type : Syringe Dispensing, Size : 6.5g, Color : Silver, Base : Silicone, Characteristics : Electrically and Thermally Conductive Grease, Application : For Maximizing Electrical Conductivity In Electrical Circuits, Protecting Connections and Maximizing Thermal Conductivity In Heat Sink Applications

 

[blackwater]

How do I get my button assembly apart BTW?
Thanks,

Chris