Buttons - Get the low down on the hits !!

[Para]

That sounds like great idea, Para. I'd like to see how you did that one day if time permits.
A .2 amp increase is a good improvement.

Just file off the hex post the same thickness as the copper plate so the throw won't be affected....solder on....file it back to hex shape....and polish. That's it. The reading was 1.4 and some change and it went to 1.6 and some change. I like to fiddle around with stuff to see how it will perform because it's fun; but in essense, I might have gotten a larger/better contact with the change as opposed to the copper itself making the difference. There's no way I can know for sure; just know that setup is giving me the best reading.

Just my two cents, but I truly believe any of the button/switches will deliver a great result if they are in top notch condition.

 

[fright88]

Para have you experimented at all with flattening out the button contact point on the center post? I have been thinking about doing this for some time now but havn't had the guts to do it yet.

 

[EsxPaul]

Para have you experimented at all with flattening out the button contact point on the center post? I have been thinking about doing this for some time now but havn't had the guts to do it yet.

That thought had crossed my mind also but like you, I cannot bring myself to take a file to that battery post.

 

[martinc]

Is there enough button throw to file the post?

 

[EsxPaul]

Is there enough button throw to file the post?

That's a good point. Maybe you would have to initially file the post and add more material which can then be reshaped as with para's button hex post?

Another worry would be to making sure you were always getting the bottom cap screwed into the main tube in the exact same position every time in order that the two opposing contact points meet each other correctly.

 

[martinc]

Then perhaps welding a saddle on the button pin would be better advised

 

[CaptSteve]

WELDING on my GG

Then perhaps welding a saddle on the botton pin would be better advised

 

[Para]

Para have you experimented at all with flattening out the button contact point on the center post? I have been thinking about doing this for some time now but havn't had the guts to do it yet.

That would certainly work, but the question is "Does the extra surface make any difference?" Dunno....and won't know unless I do it. I have a feeling I'll end up at the beginning....best results are a switch that's in great shape. lol
I kind of like the idea of a "pressure switch". A really strong spring and really short throw so it fires with pressure to the button. The spring prevents accidental firings. I've got one that's pretty much that way and it's a fun change.

The problem with a "saddle" is it would fire when the button turns and hits the post. I think I'll continue to play around with materials, but a flat spot on the center post will be on the "possible" list.

 

[CaptSteve]

As it happens the button I'm raving about has a flat contact.

 

[dspin]

As it happens the button I'm raving about has a flat contact.

I agree Capt. I have 2 brass buttons like yours and any TS I put them hits harder than any 2011 or 2012 clean button. All buttons have the newest brass springs installed. All buttons tried on every clean TS. Brass buttons made like your picture hit harder

 

[martinc]

Will put my hands on my 3 brass buttons in about 3 hrs...wOOt

 

[fright88]

That's a good point. Maybe you would have to initially file the post and add more material which can then be reshaped as with para's button hex post?

Another worry would be to making sure you were always getting the bottom cap screwed into the main tube in the exact same position every time in order that the two opposing contact points meet each other correctly.

As it sits if my bottom cap is tightened all the way and the battery post is all the way screwed in it always makes contact with the same spot anyways. As for there being enough throw well adjustable throw buttons do for sure my 2011 button I don't think so but I could make the button slightly longer which should do the trick.

 

[CaptSteve]

Here is a video that Imeo made about a year ago on how to clean the button.

clean button contacts - YouTube

 

[CaptSteve]

Brass flat head buttons did not come in this order Bruce got

 

[imeothanasis]

In 4 days I will be ready to ship them Steve

 

[VPDownunder]

I found this out a while ago when I got my Kick, it has trouble even firing with a stainless button, even a brand new one. Swapped it out with the brass button from my ally ggts and it fires every time..

 

[CaptSteve]

Ok great Imeo thank you buddy. We're all waiting for them anxiously.

In 4 days I will be ready to ship them Steve

 

[dspin]

In 4 days I will be ready to ship them Steve

Great news Imeo, thanks for letting us know. Do you have a pic to post just to keep the wolves at bay??

 

[Mac_206]

This is an amazing post steve, thanks buddy. I use the exact same setup as you in opening post.

I thought brass battery and brass firing springs were an improvement but this is exciting!

Cant wait for mine to come in..


SSGGTS#141+Odysseus

 

[fright88]

In 4 days I will be ready to ship them Steve

That is great news I agree with dspin pics please!!