Button's getting hot?

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Hello,

Last night I rebuilt my Stillare to a .14 parallel dual coil with 26g wire. After a few clouds I noticed the button getting warm. I'm hesititent to use until I know why/what is causing this. I've put it on my ohm meter various times and each time reads .14 so don't think its a short with the build.

Set up is as follows:
Coil: Dual parallel micro coils 26g reading at 0.14 ohm
Atty: Stillare(clone)
mod: Sentinel M(clone)
Battery: Sony VTC5(full charge)

I've never experienced this with any other build(Even builds at the same ohm) and am worried that I may cause some damage to my battery or mod.
 
I'm well aware of the wattage/amps being pulled. I had originally thought that I may have exceeded the amp limit of my batteries. I've had builds in the past around .13-.15 that never caused my button to get hot. And just to clarify when I say it got hot I mean it got warm enough that I could feel it. Top was hot(obviously), middle of mod was cool and the button was getting warm. Pulled the battery out and was cool(ish) to the touch. Just want to make sure it won't escalate to a bigger issue if I continue to use this build.

(Also I apologize if any of this comes off rude. Just been a rough day and don't want to lose any more mods today DX)
 

k702

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It could cause a failure of the battery cell..

I hope you checked that resistance on a couple/few different ohmmeters so you know it's .14 and not .1 or lower.. Once you get down into that range of resistance, Amps and Watts go crazy and increase by quite a lot very quickly. Really have to say, if you care about safety at all the setup you described is not advisable.
 
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Maurice Pudlo

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Magnets will fail when heated too.

The switch itself isn't up to the task you are asking of it.

Same thing happens on any part of a mod that is conducting lots of electricity and has little direct metal to metal contact area. The heat is coming from the arc, plain and simple.

Get a better mod to cure the issue, you can't add metal to metal contact.

This is where very close fitting parts outshine loose fitting ones. Heck my out and about throwaway hcigar clone nemesis that is fairly nice can't carry the current of a 0.28 ohm coil where the tube sections join. That's simply due to bad threading. The switch too has a wide margin of tollarance and gets hot at that range as well.

Building higher ohm coils is an instant fix, otherwise you are seeing your mods limits.

Maurice
 

Despraci

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May 23, 2014
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Actually, unless the magnets make contact with each other and create a better circuit path then the spring, the magnets may make the condition worse. Reason a hot button 9 times out of 10 is poor conductivity from the button to the body of the mod. Magnets only make this worse because the button now floats more with worse conductivity. If the magnets touch when it's depressed and making contact with the battery, they they will help improve the issue. Most likely this is really hard to achieve simultaneous contact of two surfaces.

My preferred method of how to fix this issue (and I done it to a couple of my Atomo mods that are known for this problem) is a nice heavy Nemesis spring, Then I cut and shape it to the desired shape and weight of the throw. I usually keep the weight of the throw a little heavier then normal to help prevent accidental firing.
 
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