Actually low temperatures are better than room temperature, but just a little bit better.
Can a mod die from no use?
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alien Traveler" data-source="post: 16048350" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">alien Traveler said:
I remember when i was a kid, we used to store the batteries in the fridge. Because it would apparently increase their longitivity. Granted this was the small common ones such as duracell for remote controlls and what not.
Altho i'm not sure if i would dare to store say IMRs in the fridge due condensation and what not. What i'm wondering though without any research on the subject. Was my parents right in storing them in the fridge? I'vent realy thought about it until i read your post about low temps.
How to Store Batteries - Battery University
"The recommended storage temperature for most batteries is 15°C (59°F); the extreme allowable temperature is –40°C to 50°C (–40°C to 122°F) for most chemistries. While lead acid must always be kept at full-charge during storage, nickel- and lithium-based chemistries should be stored at around a 40 percent state-of-charge (SoC). This minimizes age-related capacity loss while keeping the battery operational and allowing for some self-discharge."
"The recommended storage temperature for most batteries is 15°C (59°F); the extreme allowable temperature is –40°C to 50°C (–40°C to 122°F) for most chemistries. While lead acid must always be kept at full-charge during storage, nickel- and lithium-based chemistries should be stored at around a 40 percent state-of-charge (SoC). This minimizes age-related capacity loss while keeping the battery operational and allowing for some self-discharge."
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Interesting readm thanks for this link.
Also this kinda answers my question above i guess.
"Batteries are degenerating products and storage causes them to age never mind what; low temperature and partial SoC only slow the effect."
Yeah, Li batteries are made to be used. The chemistry is deteriating starting from the day they are made.
The more stable the chemistry the lower the capacity.
The more stable the chemistry the lower the capacity.
Gotta disagree with those who say store them in the freezer! NOT a good idea at all!
If you're refering to me, i said fridge not freezer. (Also i do not store them in the fridge, like they did. Also why i asked the question if that would be a good choise to do.)
It was just a mere question if my parents was right in doing so back in the days. And the link provided by baditude explains it.
BU-702: How to Store Batteries – Battery University
For Li-ion stored at 40% charge for one year at room temperature lost of capacity was 4%, in a frige - 2%. Not really big difference, but yes, in a fridge a little better. Condensation is not an issue for a battery - just let it come to room temperature before using. For a mod it could be a bit worse - I would not use it for 24 hrs after it was taken out of fridge.
BU-702: How to Store Batteries – Battery UniversityI remember when i was a kid, we used to store the batteries in the fridge. Because it would apparently increase their longitivity. Granted this was the small common ones such as duracell for remote controlls and what not.
Altho i'm not sure if i would dare to store say IMRs in the fridge due condensation and what not. What i'm wondering though without any research on the subject. Was my parents right in storing them in the fridge? I'vent realy thought about it until i read your post about low temps.
For Li-ion stored at 40% charge for one year at room temperature lost of capacity was 4%, in a frige - 2%. Not really big difference, but yes, in a fridge a little better. Condensation is not an issue for a battery - just let it come to room temperature before using. For a mod it could be a bit worse - I would not use it for 24 hrs after it was taken out of fridge.
A mod not working after being stored is likely due to a corroded battery, switch or center pin contact. Assuming this is a replaceable battery mod.
No I don't think he was referring to you. Someone in an earlier post talked about storiing batteries in the freezer, to who I too replied because I was under the impression that at best batteries should be stored in the fridge or a cool place but not in the freezer.
I might not. But I'm all set at about 16 watts, as long as my mod can fire down to .4, and I don't use temp control. So...I might lol. They're backup work mods mostly. I have a dirty job, my mods take a little abuse. Whenever my istick 30 breaks down, I'll bust out the 50w or mvp 3 for work. My Evic-VT and Coolfire 4s stay out of work. I'm not going to ever vape at super high watts, I go through enough juice mod whomping.
So it might not be a year, that was just an example. I'll probably bust one out in a few months honestly, depending how my istick 30 holds up.
If you do store them, do not store any batteries not going to be used for an extended period of time if they have a full charge. At or below a charge of 3.7 volts or lower but not below 3.2v you'll be fine.
I believe the OP was talking about Lipo batteries, if they are built into the mod, such as MVP's and iSticks have. Are you sure the same can be done for Lipo's as Li-ions?
Sounds like a mech mod would be up your ally at work then imo. Slap on a kayfun with a cheap mechmod clone. It can take a beating and if it breaks it's not much harm done in expenses.
Granted you're familiar with rebuilding and ohms safety and know about the amperage limits of your batteries. (Battery safety)
Say an SS nemesis with kfl v2.(Or a dripper if you prefer that) Less than 35$ (FT) if you buy them as clones. And they're sturdy.
Just a thought.
Yeah these are built in batteries, otherwise I wouldn't even worry, I'd just but some new batteries.
No I like the small size of the istick 30 though, and it's cheap. Fits easy in my pocket, does the trick and last me 8-10 hour work day.Sounds like a mech mod would be up your ally at work then imo. Slap on a kayfun with a cheap mechmod clone. It can take a beating and if it breaks it's not much harm done in expenses.
Granted you're familiar with rebuilding and ohms safety and know about the amperage limits of your batteries. (Battery safety)
Say an SS nemesis with kfl v2. Less than 35$ (FT) if you buy them as clones. And they're sturdy.
Just a thought.
Li-Poly (LiFePo), Li-Ion (ICR), Li-Mn (IMR) are all lithium based batteries.
The main difference in my thinking is not all of their chemistries are considered safe chemistry. Only IMR and IMR/hybrid batteries are safe chemistry. (Adding nickel and/or manganese makes the lithium battery a safe chemistry.)
Non-replaceable batteries found in eGo's and MVP / iSticks, et al are Li-Poly, and not safe chemistry. That's why we have reports of eGo batteries and iSticks catching on fire or exploding.
eGo battery explosion
istick 50 watt autofire and burnt carpet
Although I own an MVP now in storage, I choose to use only mods requiring external batteries. I want to be able to choose the battery myself, not rely on the choice a manufacturer thinks I'll want. Having had a protected ICR battery explode in a mechanical mod years ago, I did a lot of research on batteries and hench my preference for safe chemistry IMR batteries.
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
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