No battery or charger yet. Still looking at which tank to get.
Also trying to figure out which Stainless steel wire to get.. a clean consistent wire.
Also trying to figure out which Stainless steel wire to get.. a clean consistent wire.
Can I get some help getting setup please?
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Well, I think I'm just going to get the Hellvape MD MTL RTA.. Not a top air flow like I wanted, but I'm really tired of looking and looking at reviews on them.. Then when I find one, I gotta search the whole internet to find it in stock at a good price.
Now trying to figure out what is a good wire type, diameter and brand....
Then which cotton type and brand..
Makes it so confusing and it's so much just opinions rather then fact based..
Now trying to figure out what is a good wire type, diameter and brand....
Then which cotton type and brand..
Makes it so confusing and it's so much just opinions rather then fact based..
That should be a good tank choice. 26 ga wire is a good one to start with. Kanthal (A1), SS (316) or Nichrome (Ni80) are good... I would avoid Titanium and Nickel (Ni200) they require temp control (nothing wrong with that but still not good choice for beginners) I like "celu-cotton" myself (cheap from Amazon)
I watched a video of that tank... I really like it. Versatile airflow,,, you can try different things with this. Thanks... I wasn't familiar with this one... personally, I like it. I tend to like MTL tanks that have options for airflow (there are good ones that just have too restricted airflow for me... like the Beserker, just to tight for me) many choices for MTL RTAs but that is a good choice for sure.
Just get some simple wire to start with... then try other stuff (simple claptons are great... single wire core)
Just get some simple wire to start with... then try other stuff (simple claptons are great... single wire core)
Tripod has excellent airflow options, due to the use of airflow reducers and an airflow control ring.
Genuine.
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Ulton clone.
ULTON Tripod Style 316SS 22mm RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer 2ml/3.4ml Combo (1:1) - Silver
And the quality of the materials and machining for just under $26 is excellent, and I have completely retrofitted the o rings due to them being garbage. So I'm able to give info there if anyone is interested.
But there's very little difference between the clone and original, they vape identically. Not sure if a 3mm ID coil will work with the chamber reducer in place though, as it's possible to place a 7 wrap 0.28mm SS316L coil on the build deck which quite easily gets you over 1 ohm.
Genuine.
You are being redirected...
Ulton clone.
ULTON Tripod Style 316SS 22mm RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer 2ml/3.4ml Combo (1:1) - Silver
And the quality of the materials and machining for just under $26 is excellent, and I have completely retrofitted the o rings due to them being garbage. So I'm able to give info there if anyone is interested.
But there's very little difference between the clone and original, they vape identically. Not sure if a 3mm ID coil will work with the chamber reducer in place though, as it's possible to place a 7 wrap 0.28mm SS316L coil on the build deck which quite easily gets you over 1 ohm.
People seem to like the XTAR VC4 and VC2 chargers for affordable but decent chargers. You'll need a charger since the Jackaroos USB port is only accessible by removing the faceplate 
Not sure if the USB port was intended for charging because of that. May be only intended for upgrading firmware. I don't really know.
Not sure if the USB port was intended for charging because of that. May be only intended for upgrading firmware. I don't really know.
Bought some 26 and 28g wire. Cheap enough to buy and experiment with. They only had SS wire though, so I may have to get Kanthal locally.
Tried to get more variety, but they are sold out of half of everything it seems..
Will probably buy batteries and charger from the Place listed on page 1.
2 different Samsung 21700 type of batteries with different specs. No idea what the better option is..
Here's a image of what I got.
That clone looks pretty good. I would have to get a different mod to put that on though as it would look a bit weird for me on a Jackaroo.
Would look nice on a pen style or small box if i ever get a back up later down the road.
Tried to get more variety, but they are sold out of half of everything it seems..
Will probably buy batteries and charger from the Place listed on page 1.
2 different Samsung 21700 type of batteries with different specs. No idea what the better option is..
Here's a image of what I got.
That clone looks pretty good. I would have to get a different mod to put that on though as it would look a bit weird for me on a Jackaroo.
Would look nice on a pen style or small box if i ever get a back up later down the road.
People seem to like the XTAR VC4 and VC2 chargers for affordable but decent chargers. You'll need a charger since the Jackaroos USB port is only accessible by removing the faceplate
Not sure if the USB port was intended for charging because of that. May be only intended for upgrading firmware. I don't really know.
That's a nice looking charger and good price. Might have to get that one, but ill look around on that website more tomorrow.
USB port under the front is for firmware updates.
If able to charge from it, would only be used for emergencies, but even then, I probably wouldn't even mess with it.
With high ohm MTL vaping @Simplejack, you can use lower CDR ( Constant Discharge Rate) batteries with more mAh capacity without any issues.
So you can get even more runtime.
It's only when sub ohm vaping that you need high CDR batteries, just to make sure that you're safe. But always remember to use ohms law, wether it's a calculator or calculations to make sure that you're safe. As you never want to use either all the CDR of batteries or surpass it.
And the Ephro 101 pro mod which looks a little like a Dicodes tube mod would be a nice look with a Tripod clone, but no real opinion on them as never used one.
Mod 101 Pro | Ehpro® Innovation keeps changing the vaping experience!
So you can get even more runtime.
It's only when sub ohm vaping that you need high CDR batteries, just to make sure that you're safe. But always remember to use ohms law, wether it's a calculator or calculations to make sure that you're safe. As you never want to use either all the CDR of batteries or surpass it.
And the Ephro 101 pro mod which looks a little like a Dicodes tube mod would be a nice look with a Tripod clone, but no real opinion on them as never used one.
Mod 101 Pro | Ehpro® Innovation keeps changing the vaping experience!
Yup and Liionwholesale is having a clearance sale on LG HG2 batteries. Good batteries and well within your means of vaping. They also sell the XTAR chargers.
BTW, the LG batts are on clearance because of legal trouble LG is giving retailers who sell their batteries to the public (long story, not important), not because they are old or bad in any way. Liion is a reputable battery retailer. All batts will ship in plastic cases.
Molicel is also supposed to be a good option as well. But as @UncleJunkle and others will advise, get batteries from a reputable retailer. Not Amazon, Ebay, some vape shops or the likes.
There's way too many fakes and rewraps out there.
And it's a good idea to have a few battery wraps at one side, just in case. As it's pretty dammed easy to rewrap a battery.
There's way too many fakes and rewraps out there.
And it's a good idea to have a few battery wraps at one side, just in case. As it's pretty dammed easy to rewrap a battery.
I know nothing about what specs on each thing to look at comparing ohms to watts and voltages and how it comes together against battery specs..
That mod would look nice with that tank.
What does wrapping a battery do?
I just want a full size battery that will fill up the space inside the Jackaroo with no jiggle and without the use of a battery sleeve or extension thing.
Since I will be capable. I might wanna mess around with sub ohm with DL draw and putting some power into it just for fun.
Mainly just MTL though.
I just want a full size battery that will fill up the space inside the Jackaroo with no jiggle and without the use of a battery sleeve or extension thing.
Since I will be capable. I might wanna mess around with sub ohm with DL draw and putting some power into it just for fun.
Mainly just MTL though.
I've never heard of those battery sites before, but I'm assuming they are good since they are being posted here?
I've also never searched for batteries online, so i have no idea on any battery websites and how reputable they are.
I've also never searched for batteries online, so i have no idea on any battery websites and how reputable they are.
With a regulated device, the coil resistance has no bearing on battery life or the amount of current drawn. Your power (in watts) does.
An easy way to determine the highest power setting one can use with a particular battery while reducing risk, take the batteries CDR rating and multiply that by 3. If your device has more than one battery, you can multiply that answer by the amount of batteries your mod uses.
Example: Samsung 40T has a CDR rating of 25amps. 25 x 3 = 75 watts. If your device uses 2 batteries, then then two Samsung 40T’s would be good for up to 150 watts.
Wrapping a battery is either to replace the stock wrap when they have become damaged, or to make them look nice.
1+ ohm is high ohm and low wattage which is more suited to MTL (Mouth To Lung) style and gives a nice cool vape experience with a slight mist, and closer to 0.1 ohm is sub ohm with much more vapour production and can get very toasty indeed which is more suited for the clouds bro or DTL (Direct To Lung) vapers.
And with ohms law calculations @Simplejack you just need the resistance of the coil you'll be using and voltage of 4.2V to work out how many Amps that would be used.
I personally am a restricted DTL vaper and use SS316L simple round wire coils at around the 0.5 - 0.7 ohm range with TC (Temperature Coefficient/Temperature Control) as I like a decent amount of vapour without a massive amount of heat, but with Squonking I use 0.8mm × 0.2mm SS316L flat wire with TC again and a lot of airflow at around 0.4 ohms. Just wish I could get hold of some 0.6mm × 0.2mm SS316L flat wire, as trying to use ribbon is like working with angel hair pasta.
1+ ohm is high ohm and low wattage which is more suited to MTL (Mouth To Lung) style and gives a nice cool vape experience with a slight mist, and closer to 0.1 ohm is sub ohm with much more vapour production and can get very toasty indeed which is more suited for the clouds bro or DTL (Direct To Lung) vapers.
And with ohms law calculations @Simplejack you just need the resistance of the coil you'll be using and voltage of 4.2V to work out how many Amps that would be used.
I personally am a restricted DTL vaper and use SS316L simple round wire coils at around the 0.5 - 0.7 ohm range with TC (Temperature Coefficient/Temperature Control) as I like a decent amount of vapour without a massive amount of heat, but with Squonking I use 0.8mm × 0.2mm SS316L flat wire with TC again and a lot of airflow at around 0.4 ohms. Just wish I could get hold of some 0.6mm × 0.2mm SS316L flat wire, as trying to use ribbon is like working with angel hair pasta.
All batteries are wrapped with a thin insulator. This is to prevent any accidental shorts. Because these batteries are not meant to be used outside a protected power pack, the wraps are fragile and prone to damage. Any damage to a battery wrap should be addressed immediately – either re-wrap the battery (it’s not difficult), or do not use the battery until it can be re-wrapped. It’s good practice to have spare wraps on hand.
One can double wrap a battery for an increase durability, but they should also understand by doing so you are increasing the size of the battery which may lead to fit issues with your device.
The Jackaroo uses a 21700 size battery. Its battery compartment will allow for a slight variance between batteries. But it will also secure the cell so that it is not rattling around. The Jackaroo also comes with a 18650 battery adaptor should you wish to use this size of a cell.
That applies to mechanical devices, not regulated. With a regulated device coil resistance has no bearing on the battery usage. Your power from the regulated circuit does. The simple equation to determine current draw is Current = Power (in watts)/Battery voltage. As battery voltage depletes with use, current draw increases so to meet your power demands. This is why with regulated device we use the cut off voltage to determine the current draw. So 50 watts with a full 4.2 volt battery = 12 amps. Same 50 watts with a 3.2 volt cut off = 15.5 amps
It is a little more complex than that for we also have to factor in device efficiency. So a mod with 90% efficiency at 50 watts would then yield ~55.5 watts. 55.5 watts would draw 17.3 amps from the battery at 3.2 volts.
We can see this in action with the Battery Drain tab with Steam Engine.
Pick regulated device and choose power regulation. Enter in a wattage and resistance value and you will receive a calculated voltage and current draw at the atomizer. And a calculated current draw at the battery drain. Keep the wattage the same and adjust resistance – the voltage and current changes within the atomizer but the current draw at the battery does not.
Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
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I really don't understand it.. i been reading and watching videos for hours trying to understand it all and I just don't get it.. so many batteries.. button top and flat top 40 or 40T and amps and volts and mah and what I'm doing on my mod and what my results I will get or see.
I got 2 coils that came with my mod, sub ohm.
Most the time I'll be running my other tank for MTL RTA.. what if I wanna run sub later? Do i have to get new batteries?
I can't even order batteries because I can't figure all this out.
If my voltage drops below or certain voltage while I'm using it it will fail and blow up? That's what I keep reading So i have to babysit the voltage while im vaping?
Everyone and their dog is vaping these things and I can't even figure out the battery.. then charger brands..
I got 2 coils that came with my mod, sub ohm.
Most the time I'll be running my other tank for MTL RTA.. what if I wanna run sub later? Do i have to get new batteries?
I can't even order batteries because I can't figure all this out.
If my voltage drops below or certain voltage while I'm using it it will fail and blow up? That's what I keep reading So i have to babysit the voltage while im vaping?
Everyone and their dog is vaping these things and I can't even figure out the battery.. then charger brands..
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