How much do you pay for the cigarettes you smoke and how many do you smoke a day?
Can I get some help getting setup please?
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Roughly 6 packs worth cost me $14 since I make my own with tubes.
Roughly 1 pack every 2 days.
Give or take, depending.
So around a $1.25 per day to smoke.
Roughly 1 pack every 2 days.
Give or take, depending.
So around a $1.25 per day to smoke.
26g wire is thicker and easier to rewick. On the downside, it takes longer to heat up (ramp up) and cool down. 28g fires fast, and cools down quickly, but it is of course thinner, so it's harder to rewick.
For your first builds with the hellvape MD RTA, I'd use ss316l 26g, 3mm id, 6 or 7 wraps. That will come out at around 0.5ohms. Or with ss316l 28ga, 3mm id, 7 wraps at around 0.8ohms.
The RTA comes with some coils too, this review tells you more about it:
Hellvape MD MTL RTA Review Airflow Is Key | Ecigclick
Edited to add: And don't worry about a coil being below 1ohm. There's no rule that says you can only MTL ABOVE 1 ohm. MTL is just an inhalation technique, and usually done on smaller chimney, less airflow atomisers at lower wattages.
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@Simplejack, I and many others use the coil building tools on steam-engine.org.
I also use an Android app called Wattage Calculator to get a wattage range that I can work within, for the resistance of the atomiser used.
But one thing that I have found is that some atomisers are unable to trap smaller gauge wires, it can sometimes be fixed by retrofitting with different screws like I've had to do with the Ulton Tripod. It's much better now as I ended up using A2 Stainless Steel M2.5 × 4mm hex socket button head machine screws, as well as trapping the wire properly they can also be really tightened up without stripping the same as flat/posi/Phillip's head screws.
But for MTL you're probably better using Kanthal, as it's the highest resistance material that you can use. But it can only be used in Power/Wattage/Voltage mode due to the fact that its resistance change is so small when heated, and most if not all mods cannot read the change.
Stainless Steel/Nickel/Titanium, can be used in TC (Temperature Coefficient/Temperature Control) mode. But only Stainless Steel can be used in Power/Wattage/Voltage mode, Titanium and Nickel produce very nasty things if you try to use them in Power/Wattage/Voltage mode.
I also use an Android app called Wattage Calculator to get a wattage range that I can work within, for the resistance of the atomiser used.
But one thing that I have found is that some atomisers are unable to trap smaller gauge wires, it can sometimes be fixed by retrofitting with different screws like I've had to do with the Ulton Tripod. It's much better now as I ended up using A2 Stainless Steel M2.5 × 4mm hex socket button head machine screws, as well as trapping the wire properly they can also be really tightened up without stripping the same as flat/posi/Phillip's head screws.
But for MTL you're probably better using Kanthal, as it's the highest resistance material that you can use. But it can only be used in Power/Wattage/Voltage mode due to the fact that its resistance change is so small when heated, and most if not all mods cannot read the change.
Stainless Steel/Nickel/Titanium, can be used in TC (Temperature Coefficient/Temperature Control) mode. But only Stainless Steel can be used in Power/Wattage/Voltage mode, Titanium and Nickel produce very nasty things if you try to use them in Power/Wattage/Voltage mode.
Awesome. Thank you both. Good info. I'll be sure to reference these two posts to get me started.
the one that says 316L/Elite <- its often referred to as 316L or 316L Elite....
Im also with AngeNZ, i have used 26g wire (mostly 316L) with a 3mm ID and between 7-8 wraps for years
Be aware that with 316L SS any coil calculator is only going to be a rough guide due to the material, so you'll get into the ballpark specified above, but do not do what i saw one newbie do, and keep making coils trying to hit the exact number steam engines coil calc/wire calc told him he should get (With Kanthal youre far more likely to get close to the number in the calc, with SS, not so much...). Wrap and try the coil, if it works, repeat for years to come (i did, 7 wraps for me for 4 years), if not then add more wraps, which brings me to adding to the above notes:
Number of wraps isnt all about trying to hit an ohmage range, its also about surface area...in fact its a balance against ohmage and surface area...more surface area of course means more available area for the juice to be vaporised, but more wraps equals higher ohms. Some decks or their coil trapping mechanism will also dictate how many wraps you can fit in. In general 7 wraps is a good starting point. the stock coil of my first tank was 7-8 wraps with a 3mm ID of kanthal, giving 1.1ohms, i wrapped the same way for a year and a half, then when i switched to 316L SS i just kept wrapping 7-8 wraps with a 3mm ID, only this mean i got a lower (0.6 roughtly) ohm coil. What stayed the same was the surface area, i never MTL vaped when i was vaing the 1.1ohm coils, and nothing changed when i switched to 316L SS....
And the other thing id suggest is spaced coils, whether youre using vw/vv mode or temp control mode.....
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True @stylemessiah, also different mods read resistance differently.
Main thing is that the reading is within a stable range and it works, but it takes a lot of trial and error to find out what coils work for you in different atomisers.
Also keep an eye on coil mass and heat capacity, as too high and it takes a long while for the coil to heat up and cool down.
Surface area is another factor, especially when it's in contact with the wicking.
Like I've said though, trial and error. Hopefully not too much error though.
Main thing is that the reading is within a stable range and it works, but it takes a lot of trial and error to find out what coils work for you in different atomisers.
Also keep an eye on coil mass and heat capacity, as too high and it takes a long while for the coil to heat up and cool down.
Surface area is another factor, especially when it's in contact with the wicking.
Like I've said though, trial and error. Hopefully not too much error though.
I toyed with mentioning mods having their own internal resistance (sometimes just a crappy pot metal 510 is enough (joyetech)) and reading the coil differently, but i though they needed to discover some things themselves, plus it was looking like between everyone, they were getting al the info they would ever need in one thread, and you tell me thats how this place operates now? ...
Cool. Sounds fun to me. I'll be sure to find my happy place before making a bunch of coils.
Thanks for the detailed info everyone. Really helps out alot, especially when just getting started.
My girlfriend might want to get a rebuildable type if she likes mine, but that's another thread there.
She's using a JUUL.. nice that it's small and fits in a purse, but that's about it.
Thanks for the detailed info everyone. Really helps out alot, especially when just getting started.
My girlfriend might want to get a rebuildable type if she likes mine, but that's another thread there.
She's using a JUUL.. nice that it's small and fits in a purse, but that's about it.
Dont be overwhelmed, i built coils from day one...my nic arrived from overseas on 23rd March 2015, i went out the local vape store, bought the hardware, had my last cigarette ever waiting for the bus home. Went home wrapped a coil, wicked it, pressed the button and never smoked again (after 35 years of smoking). Coil building gives you not only control over your vape, reduces the costs over continually buying factory coils, but also keeps you busy and gives you something else to do to avoid thinking about back-pedalling to cigarettes
JUUL are my least favourite vape company, mainly because they took a huge dump on vapers by buying ad time on childrens networks. They handed the anti vaping bodies a nice target
@Simplejack, coil building if you use those tools I've mentioned will be a lot easier.
It can just take a while to get the right coil build for the atomiser for you, the ID (Internal Diameter) which is usually optimal for MTL at 2.5mm (can use a drill bit or Knitting needle), the metal used, the gauge or thickness and the number of wraps or rotations around the form.
Worst thing that will happen is it'll either be to hot, too much vapour, slow to heat and cool. Use a thinner gauge or use less wraps.
Or too cool, not much vapour, fast to heat and cool. Use a thicker gauge or use more wraps.
It can just take a while to get the right coil build for the atomiser for you, the ID (Internal Diameter) which is usually optimal for MTL at 2.5mm (can use a drill bit or Knitting needle), the metal used, the gauge or thickness and the number of wraps or rotations around the form.
Worst thing that will happen is it'll either be to hot, too much vapour, slow to heat and cool. Use a thinner gauge or use less wraps.
Or too cool, not much vapour, fast to heat and cool. Use a thicker gauge or use more wraps.
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