I know I can sub ohm. Just hoping to get the attention of someone with more experience then me. I have been running about 1.2 to 1.5 ohm with 30g kanthal on a duel coil 15 wrap build. It was ok but wanted more. I put my vamo down and got a mechanical mod. I bought a nemesis clone to run my smok caterpillar. I've got my hands on some 24g kanthal. Currently I'm running .7 ohm on a single coil at 8 wraps. I built a duel coil at 8 wraps, gave me .3 ohms. Wasn't impressed with vapor either. It took about 3 seconds to get any vapor going. The rda got hot quick. Within about 5 hits it was almost to hot to handle. And the 18650 vtc4 battery died in about half the time it usually does after building my single coil and vaping for about 3 hours on it..I'm usually getting about 7 hours out of .7ohm builds. I'm two weeks into rdas. I've read allot about safety and making sure you have the correct battery for your build. I'm just wondering if my 40 dollar set up is just to cheap to run .3 ohm. Again, it's a nemesis clone running a smok caterpillar rda. I'm using my vamo to check the resistance until I can get an ohm meter. Thanks in advance for advise.
Can I sub ohm
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If all you want are clouds, you may want to switch to 90% or more VG juice, if you aren't using it already. That it got so hot you couldn't touch it probably meant it was about to vent, so good luck...
The vamo isn't the best way to truly test the resistance of really low coil builds. Do your self a favor and get a good ohm meter or multi-meter. When everything is functioning correctly a little warmth is normal up near the atty, anything down lower toward the button is a good sign that there is a possible short. Less battery life is normal with lower resistance and dual coil builds since you are drawing more power then a standard 1.xish single coil build would.
most improtant thing to do is make sure there is a nice even glow from both coils before wicking. If not try squeezing the coils and adjusting until the glow is uniform and simultaneous on both coils.
most improtant thing to do is make sure there is a nice even glow from both coils before wicking. If not try squeezing the coils and adjusting until the glow is uniform and simultaneous on both coils.
There's a lot more than just how low your buil ohms are; Bigger gauge wire will take more time to heat up, and will also take more time to cool down. Even 26 gauge takes a long time to reach temperature. Dual coils also mean you are sucking double the amps on a mech mod than you would take if you were running only one of those coils. This also means your battery charge will last half as long.
It's easier to deal with one coil and 28 gauge + wire IMO. You might want to experiment with coil diameter. Smaller diameter will mean more concentrated heat and more wraps for the same resistance, but more risk of going for a dry hit if you chain vape (still much safer than venting a battery, though.) You can get even more heat out of a 30-32 gauge build with low ohms, but the downside is the coil will not likely live as long. Experimenting is part of the experience since everyone has different taste. It still doesn't hurt to ask questions and learn from other people's experience.
It's easier to deal with one coil and 28 gauge + wire IMO. You might want to experiment with coil diameter. Smaller diameter will mean more concentrated heat and more wraps for the same resistance, but more risk of going for a dry hit if you chain vape (still much safer than venting a battery, though.) You can get even more heat out of a 30-32 gauge build with low ohms, but the downside is the coil will not likely live as long. Experimenting is part of the experience since everyone has different taste. It still doesn't hurt to ask questions and learn from other people's experience.
clone nemesis are prone to overheating and possibly shocking the user as it is a modular unit and has alot of threaded parts. Here is my advice .30 is not safe, really not safe with so little experience you have. You can have a great vape from .50 all the way up to 1.5. All your doing is putting stress on your battery's, your stressing cause you think that .30 is normal and what everyone does. You said yourself that .70 was good, it is good dont buy into the hype, and dont feel pressured that you have to sub-ohm. It is a stigma that 5% of the vapers in this world think is the only way. The other 95% still have a great vape experience. I dont ever go bellow .60 no reason too.
And most IMPORTANT and I must be the only one who caught it. Your mod is getting too HOT TO HOLD, think about it, it is TOO HOT you should not continue doing it if it was some other electronic device that got so hot you couldnt stand to hold it you would probably through it out the window, go back to your .70 and have fun.
New members forum, with a new member I dont think we help him vape at .30 kind of rediculous
And most IMPORTANT and I must be the only one who caught it. Your mod is getting too HOT TO HOLD, think about it, it is TOO HOT you should not continue doing it if it was some other electronic device that got so hot you couldnt stand to hold it you would probably through it out the window, go back to your .70 and have fun.
New members forum, with a new member I dont think we help him vape at .30 kind of rediculous
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clone nemesis are prone to overheating and possibly shocking the user as it is a modular unit and has alot of threaded parts. Here is my advice .30 is not safe, really not safe with so little experience you have. You can have a great vape from .50 all the way up to 1.5. All your doing is putting stress on your battery's, your stressing cause you think that .30 is normal and what everyone does. You said yourself that .70 was good, it is good dont buy into the hype, and dont feel pressured that you have to sub-ohm. It is a stigma that 5% of the vapers in this world think is the only way. The other 95% still have a great vape experience. I dont ever go bellow .60 no reason too.
And most IMPORTANT and I must be the only one who caught it. Your mod is getting too HOT TO HOLD, think about it, it is TOO HOT you should not continue doing it if it was some other electronic device that got so hot you couldnt stand to hold it you would probably through it out the window, go back to your .70 and have fun.
New members forum, with a new member I dont think we help him vape at .30 kind of rediculous
Sorry but if your gear is too hot to even touch your doing it wrong.
I'd recommend you get a 50 watt box mod or something. You can build your 0.7 ohm builds but you can raise the wattage up on it and get more vapor and flavor. Plus it's safer too. They have built in protection from shorts and reverse battery protection and they're capped at a certain amount of amperage. Basically so you don't blow yourself up like you're about to do with that hot Nemesis.
Yes I know I'm pushing it with.3 to fast.. that's why I'm asking questions.. I'm producing clouds that I can't see thru with a single coil .7 ohm build. I just wondered if the rda getting hot was normal or the build quality of the rda was cheap. After reading thru these post id say I need more experience and a box mod.
Thanks to all that replied.. I'm just looking for general advice.. I should state looking thru the replies, my mod or battery never got hot.. just the outside of of the rda. It was hot enough on the top cap that if I held it for more then 5 seconds it would have been uncomfortable.. Don't think I would have got burned. I am just looking to gain more knowledge on the subject. I do need to get an ohm meter... I figured .3 was to low for a new mod user. That's why I didn't want to vape it. I took one hit from it and tore it down. The getting hot part was testing the coils for proper glow. Thanks again for the replies and not beating me up to bad for doing such a low build starting out. I mainly just wanted to see if it would work..
Good replies, and good response from you... take it as a learning experience. .3 ohms is not too low if you have the right gear and you are skilled in building (knowing the ins and outs of sub ohms vaping).
A dual coil RDA with sufficient wicking and air at .25 ohms dual coil at 4v = 65 watts. This is not no-mans land and if done right you can have a great vape. Just keep at your learning curve and if you really want to gear up for that it'll happen in time.
In the meantime you may find that some of the best vaping with less watts and different type of build is equally awesome, but in a different realm.
Try a 1 to 2 ohms coil with 30g wire and more voltage i.e. 5 to 6v; its a cooler vape (thin wire cools down faster), lots of vapor and lots of flavor, and less watts but more voltage, and less amp draw on your batts.
Thanks for the advice. I have been running 1.5 duel coil on 30g just felt like I could better production out of it. My .7 is doing that. Just wanted to see how far I could go. Sounds like I'm there for the time. I'll play with different builds and wire and stay around or above what I'm doing now. Till I can get a better mod and a black belt in rdas.. Thanks again for all the advice guys.. really appreciate the warm welcome..
You, my friend, seem to understand more than some of the people who posted on here, so I let it be for a while.
-At 0.3 ohms, no matter what the build, I would expect the atty to get hot after a few puffs or on a 5 second glow test (a little long for a glow test to me, though). The mod on the other hand, should not even get more than warm: 4.2 volts / 0.3 ohms = 14 amps, which is well below the 30 amp max of the VTC4. The possibility of something moving inside the build and creating a short is always present, but that usually would include heat on the battery tube as well.
-In any situation, if the mod gets hot, you have a problem, that seems to be clear for everyone here.
I think you are on the right track, just ask more precise questions and you'll get more precise answers. A box mod sure is a safer way to experiment and, as a professional electronics tech, I say it is the only safe way to do things (provided it's a protected mod obviously). Mechs are just like bypassing the fuse box in your home; The day you have an unexpected short, you might not run fast enough.
I find 28ga is good surface area to resistance ratio. It's quick to reach a functioning temp and quick to dissipate heat once you release the fire button so you're not overheating your atty. Resistance is high enough that you can run dual coils without going too low into the sub zone. If you use steam engine coil calculator when doing the math you will get a decent understanding of your target build. Myself have been very happy with dual coils with internal diameter of 2.5mm using 28ga and target resistance of 0.6ohm-0.8ohm. I've found it is a balance between great performance and safety also reliable and easy. If you really want to sub ohm with a mech your first priority should be sureness of safety. Then learn to understand more about how different options effects the performance. Or get a high wattage regulated mod with all the safety built in and have no reason to even approach a dangerously low resistance?
Thanks Torch, I do need to invest in some more gear before progressing. My wife is about to kill me. I have over $200 in batteries and tanks. She keeps saying how is this "saving money" neglecting the fact I was spending 75 a week on analogs. The eight months I been smoke free I saved a boat load. Oh and I'm not killing my self. So I gotta ease into the box mod thing...in the mean time I'll stock up on batteries, kanthal, and any tools I need. "Ohm meter" $20 or so at a time. Save the box mod for a birthday-Christmas present idea...lol
Good advice spooky. I will have to research the coil builds you speak of. The only ones I know, is the sleeper build. Other then just basic micro and nano builds. The screw driver I build on is either a .062 dia or I have a .125 I build on to get a thicker wick. I find the smaller works best..
Lol, got excited thought I found a new coil build. Forgot that was calculator you were referring to. That thing will save my wire. I have a kanthal size to ohm chart I been using to get the target resistance.it's close but never got my Mark on first build.
Just get the new stuff delivered at work instead of your home address
Lil heads up: check out the DNA 40 as it also features temperature regulation when using nickel wire.
I totally agree Mr. Torch. It's great to see someone new to the forum (not to vaping, the two don't always correlate whoever was talking about that...) asking questions, and willing to learn.
Nomad, everything that needs to be said, has been said. However, there are many members on this forum who use a Nemesis and really enjoy it. They have built lower than 0.3Ω also. I'd say, it was either a short or the RDA isn't up to par (and knowing Smok...). Regulated mods are great, I use my DNA30 every day. They do produce a different kind of vapor imo though, and I will never give up my mech because of that. I can't really explain it, it just feels different.
I use a 4Nine with a Plume Veil RDA built at 0.24Ω and it is my favorite vape I've had in almost two years of vaping (January will be 2 years
). The only time the RDA gets even remotely hot is when I take maybe 10 draws in a row, and even then, it's warm at worst.Keep educating yourself, keep asking questions, and practice. Just please get an ohm reader immediately! No one here will ever beat you up for asking questions as long as you are open to their advice and not ignorant and closed-minded (which you are not).
Vape happy,
Cullin
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