Can I sub ohm

[nomad23]

vape is all about balance. From wicking, air supply, juice ratios, batts, gear, and most importantly, experience and skill.

A 0.3 ohm coil should heat up like pretty dang quick, unless, you have a large amount of wire to fire up, or the wire traps aren't super secure, or batts have no balls.

Heating issues, often are a mixture of bad wire traps, uneven coil wraps, improper wick and or air supply, improper densities of wick at coil, and or in wick/juice channels.

Vape is progressive, the more one vapes, the better their skills and knowledge becomes. And yeah, get a fraking ohm meter, not many devices will show an accurate readout of ohms. 0.3 could be anywhere from 0.256 to 0.355, and still read 0.3 on a mod.

Sounds to me you are pushing your vape beyond ones current vape skills and knowledge. Slow down, optimize what you have, enjoy, then try again.

A year ago, was pushing 15 watts on a reg, went to mechs, and improved me builds and wicking techniques. Today, a casual vape is 30 watts, average vape range 60-75 watts, and have some stuff the breaks 100 watts and more.

As one ups their vape, so to speak, many inconsistencies' that were within tolerances of their current level, can rear their ugly heads and have multiple issues, causing the dilemma faced. Every single aspect and property of what makes vape happen, becomes critical when pushing the vapelope, or something like that. Wire tension, wick densities, secure traps, cleanliness of all current contact points, juice ratio's, air, ........

Balance I tell ya, balance.


Vape long and Prosper.!!!!

I am running around.7 ohms until I can get the gear and knowledge I need to run a lower build. Gotta get an ohm meter and a good voltage meter. Thanks for the info and advice..

 

[nomad23]

Ok guys I got my ohm meter, a multi meter, and two vtc4 batteries as well as two 25r batteries.. oh and I upgraded to the mutation x v2 rda.. Love that thing don't get hot at all.. I checked my build on my eleaf got .21 ohms.. I am pulling17.6 volts at this ohm per the stream engine calculator. I calculated it at 3.7 volts because I usually pull my battery at 3.8v I'm wondering how I can check my rda for shorts or the mod? I've looked online didn't really find anything.. and I seen first hand of guys on Facebook using random batteries and not checking their build before vaping... makes me feel better about how I went about the process of being safe.

 

[DaveSignal]

Ok guys I got my ohm meter, a multi meter, and two vtc4 batteries as well as two 25r batteries.. oh and I upgraded to the mutation x v2 rda.. Love that thing don't get hot at all.. I checked my build on my eleaf got .21 ohms.. I am pulling17.6 volts at this ohm per the stream engine calculator. I calculated it at 3.7 volts because I usually pull my battery at 3.8v I'm wondering how I can check my rda for shorts or the mod? I've looked online didn't really find anything.. and I seen first hand of guys on Facebook using random batteries and not checking their build before vaping... makes me feel better about how I went about the process of being safe.

I wire the majority of my dual coil attys at .21 ohm. 6-wraps of 24g kanthal around 5/64 or 8-wraps nichrome (i've been using nichrome a lot lately). If you calculate it at 4.2 volt (full battery), this resistance pulls 20 amps. So you are close to the continuous rating of your battery. But, nevertheless, I interchange vtc5 and 25r frequently at this resistance. For my occasional lower builds, I always use the vtc5, but the 25r might work fine, I just haven't tested it since it isn't really rated for it.

 

[edyle]

Ok guys I got my ohm meter, a multi meter, and two vtc4 batteries as well as two 25r batteries.. oh and I upgraded to the mutation x v2 rda.. Love that thing don't get hot at all.. I checked my build on my eleaf got .21 ohms.. I am pulling17.6 volts at this ohm per the stream engine calculator. I calculated it at 3.7 volts because I usually pull my battery at 3.8v I'm wondering how I can check my rda for shorts or the mod? I've looked online didn't really find anything.. and I seen first hand of guys on Facebook using random batteries and not checking their build before vaping... makes me feel better about how I went about the process of being safe.

you got a couple typos in there

what gauge are you using? 26 or 24 dual coil?

 

[nomad23]

I wire the majority of my dual coil attys at .21 ohm. 6-wraps of 24g kanthal around 5/64 or 8-wraps nichrome (i've been using nichrome a lot lately). If you calculate it at 4.2 volt (full battery), this resistance pulls 20 amps. So you are close to the continuous rating of your battery. But, nevertheless, I interchange vtc5 and 25r frequently at this resistance. For my occasional lower builds, I always use the vtc5, but the 25r might work fine, I just haven't tested it since it isn't really rated for it.

So I should run the ohms law at 4.2 volts? I suspected that I would want to run at the lowest battery rate, after thinking about it the battery is pushing the hardest at full charge...

 

[nomad23]

you got a couple typos in there

what gauge are you using? 26 or 24 dual coil?

24 gauge kanthal, 6 wraps, 3/32 I.d.
Can you elaborate on the typos?

 

[nomad23]

24 gauge kanthal, 6 wraps, 3/32 I.d.
Can you elaborate on the typos?

Sorry and yes duel coil.

 

[edyle]

24 gauge kanthal, 6 wraps, 3/32 I.d.
Can you elaborate on the typos?

Well I highlight them in BOLD.
"25r batteries" - is that 25 amp batteries you mean?
"I am pulling 17.6volts" -- I was thinking it should be amps; but 4/.2 = 8;; oh; are you using stacked batteries?

 

[nomad23]

Well I highlight them in BOLD.
"25r batteries" - is that 25 amp batteries you mean?
"I am pulling 17.6volts" -- I was thinking it should be amps; but 4/.2 = 8;; oh; are you using stacked batteries?

I realize you highlighted them, I wasn't sure what you meant. Hence "elaborate"
I was told the Sony 25r was equivalent to the vtc4 battery but rated at 2500 mah verus 2200 mah on the vtc4 and the battery drop was less noticeable. The 17.6 volt is the calculation I got from steam engine ohm calculator. I put in .21ohm and 3.7volt, I ran those numbers because I figured I would want to know at lowest volt what it read. I realize now I need to do the math on the highest volt to see at the max battery pull what the draw on the battery will be. Sorry if the post was unclear, or this one for that matter..lol

 

[nomad23]

I realize you highlighted them, I wasn't sure what you meant. Hence "elaborate"
I was told the Sony 25r was equivalent to the vtc4 battery but rated at 2500 mah verus 2200 mah on the vtc4 and the battery drop was less noticeable. The 17.6 volt is the calculation I got from steam engine ohm calculator. I put in .21ohm and 3.7volt, I ran those numbers because I figured I would want to know at lowest volt what it read. I realize now I need to do the math on the highest volt to see at the max battery pull what the draw on the battery will be. Sorry if the post was unclear, or this one for that matter..lol

Sorry, vtc4 is 2100mah..

 

[nomad23]

Sorry, vtc4 is 2100mah..

I did typo this.. it's a Samsung 25r.. not Sony

 

[edyle]

I realize you highlighted them, I wasn't sure what you meant. Hence "elaborate"
I was told the Sony 25r was equivalent to the vtc4 battery but rated at 2500 mah verus 2200 mah on the vtc4 and the battery drop was less noticeable. The 17.6 volt is the calculation I got from steam engine ohm calculator. I put in .21ohm and 3.7volt, I ran those numbers because I figured I would want to know at lowest volt what it read. I realize now I need to do the math on the highest volt to see at the max battery pull what the draw on the battery will be. Sorry if the post was unclear, or this one for that matter..lol

ah; 3.7 / 0.21 = 17.6 amps.

that's 17.6 amps, not 17.6 volts

 

[wshanncap]

I don't think the mod is the issue. Kanthal at the heavier gauge has a longer ramp up time. So it runs down the battery faster. And dual coils will run down your battery even faster. Actually even a single coil at 0.3 is going to run down the batt fast. I don't go below 0.5 because I don't like the flavor when it gets that hot. I usually stay between 0.7 and 1.0. And I decided after experimenting with dual coils that I prefer a single coil build. Also I switched from 24G to 28G Kanthal. It ramps up faster and has a bit less heat which in my opinion tastes better. And my V6 will run the coils I like just fine. But I do also use a Knight clone. Notice I said "prefer" and "opinion". That's what a lot of RBA vaping is about once you get the safety stuff down.

 

[nomad23]

ah; 3.7 / 0.21 = 17.6 amps.

that's 17.6 amps, not 17.6 volts

My bad, thanks for pointing that out.. nothing like feeling stupid to make you remember..

 

[ukeman]

^ single coil sub ohms atomizers in general don't fare well under .5 or .6 ohms in my experience... there's usually not enough air to cool the vape.

True, thicker wire has slower cool down time and can result in more juice burn at best, but thinner wire imo is best with LR resistances 1 to 2 ohms, to give you more surface area, and best using higher voltage vs higher watts. i.e. a 30g, 10 wrap would be about 1.7 ohms, at around 5.5 to 6 volts equates to only about 15 to 20w and what 5 amps or so. Its a great way to approach this but different from sub ohms vaping.

.25 ohms duals with lots of air will not give you a hot vape. (4v = 65w)

 

[Johnnycloud]

Look, I am running. 1 on a clone right now, just cause it didn't cost much doesn't mean the mod itself can't handle subbing. Your batt. Is mostly what would b the cause. However your rda that is heating up is normal as is the quick drainage. When you do extreme subbing you really don't want to be puffing hit after hit. Also be aware that as your batt. drains your voltage lowers and makes things pretty hard on it so don't let it go below half. Maybe buy another batt. To switch out as the other charges. As for blowing clouds, it's not just about sub ohm coils, a ton has to do with wicking and airflow. There are a lot of tutorials on YouTube that can help. If you ever do feel your mod heating up down by the button STOP! if it continues to heat up open your mod (if you can) and drop it in Salt water for a cpl hrs to drain. Your battery will still be shot but you save your mod and maybe more.

 

[Robert Dupre]

Im using a mutation x rda on a klone mech mod running it a .35 ohms off a efest 18650 battery coils are 24 gauge 6/5 wrap and for cotton less is more with this set up good flavor and definitely made for chasing clouds if your into that im thinking on going down to .23 ohm which is still below the max continuous out put of 20 amps and 35 amp pulse

 

[DaveSignal]

you got a couple typos in there

what gauge are you using? 26 or 24 dual coil?

So I should run the ohms law at 4.2 volts? I suspected that I would want to run at the lowest battery rate, after thinking about it the battery is pushing the hardest at full charge...

Yes, calculate ohms law at 4.2, the full output of a charged battery.

For the other posters who didn't understand, OP is calculating amps using ohms law with a lower voltage and a .21 ohm resistance. Despite the typos, it is correct, except that 4.2 volts should be used for the calculation.

Also, 25R is a good battery for sub-ohm vaping. They are 20 amp continuous batteries with 100 amp pulse rating. I interchange them frequently with vtc5 at .21 ohm. They work great. I personally wouldn't use them for builds below .2, but some people do and I haven't heard of any issues yet.

 

[FFPetz]

Ok guys I got my ohm meter, a multi meter, and two vtc4 batteries as well as two 25r batteries.. oh and I upgraded to the mutation x v2 rda.. Love that thing don't get hot at all.. I checked my build on my eleaf got .21 ohms.. I am pulling17.6 volts at this ohm per the stream engine calculator. I calculated it at 3.7 volts because I usually pull my battery at 3.8v I'm wondering how I can check my rda for shorts or the mod? I've looked online didn't really find anything.. and I seen first hand of guys on Facebook using random batteries and not checking their build before vaping... makes me feel better about how I went about the process of being safe.

Checking for shorts is simple. Put the rda on your ohm meter and check the resistance, then put the cap on and check it again. As long as the numbers don't change (or the meter reads a complete 0 or won't read at all), there's no short. Also check and make sure the only thing the wire leads are touching are the posts they are inserted into and the coil is not touching ANYTHING and you'll be good.

I have shorted and RDA before and it made a really weird noise and smelled like crap the second I hit the button. Battery never vented, and I could instantly tell something was wrong. That may not always be the case, but very rarely will a dead short go unnoticed and cause a battery to vent.

The other thing to keep in mind (and this is where things start to get shady) is that when you find the rating on these high drain batteries, it's typically the "continuous" amperage and that is usually firing the battery for longer than a couple seconds. You can always find spec sheets for the major batteries (sony, samsung, panasonic) and they typically state what the pulsing amperage is as well, and how long a pulse is. The other brands (MXJO, EFest, etc.) are typically rewrapped versions of the major brands.

 

[supertrunker]

I assume all my charged battery voltage (4.2v) gets to my atomiser - that i have a perfect device, with no losses from switches, dirty contacts along the way.

This is patently untrue, but what it does do, is to build in a little headroom - for safety if you like, into anything i build.
If i then build to the maximum ability of the battery's continuous discharge rating, then i'm cool! If i build to a mythical pulse rating, i'm guessing.

I don't like guessing.

With my mythical perfect mod and a 30A constant discharge battery, Ω = volts/Amps = 4.2/30, so a 0.14Ω build is the lowest i can go. Be very careful when you begin making assumptions like this - there is a margin of error in your measuring devices.

If you assume (hope!!) your battery can take a pulse rating, you may be mistaken. If i build that coil above at 0.14Ω and i fire it nonstop - even by accident, then the battery will run down, my wick will likely burn and the atty will get hot. No harm done.

If i build to the pulse rating of the battery - typically 60A or so and fire that for a long time - say in my pocket for example - the battery will likely vent (it will not explode necessarily) but if that happens in my pocket, i'll be known as Lesstrunker.

Be safe.

T