Yes, the Samsung 25R is a good battery. "Unprotected" sounds scary, but it's really the better option. The reason that ICR batteries are "protected" is because it when they go bad, they go so bad that they need additional precautions to prevent that from ever happening. But circuits can and do fail, and if the protection board on the battery goes bad and you have a battery "incident" with an ICR, it's going to be a very violent incident and you do not want that to happen anywhere near you. IMR and INR batteries, on the other hand, are "safer-chemistry" batteries. If one of these batteries fails, it's still going to be bad news, but it will be less violent and perhaps give you more advance warning time so you can rectify the problem or at the very least distance yourself from the device before it gets really bad. Ideally, no battery would ever fail but since that's not ever going to happen, then we can at least make sure that if and when they do fail, it's not as bad as it could be.
The "wall-wart" USB adapter is not a charger -- the charging circuitry is built into the iStick device itself. You just need to make sure that the USB adapter can supply at least as much (more is okay, less is bad) amperage as the device is asking for. I think the iStick wants 1A or 1000mA, but it should be written on the device itself or in the documentation somewhere. The USB adapter should say on it somewhere what the output is. I'm guessing that it's either 1A/1000mA or 2A/2000mA but it should say right on it. You might need a magnifying glass to read it, but it's there.
Additionally, most people recommend that you avoid onboard charging if you can. A stand-alone charger will be better suited to charge your batteries consistently, reliably, and safely. Do yourself a favor and get a four-bay charger, you will need it eventually. The Nitecore I4 and D4 are good, the Xtar VP4 and VC4 are better. But anything made by Nitecore, Xtar, or Efest (LUC V4 for example) should get the job done.
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