can vaping too much on a mec mod damage it? and hot button

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trixiesdad

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Oct 3, 2014
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Chicago
Hi there,

MY name is Pat and I recently got into vaping. I started out like 2 weeks ago, and got an ego at a brick an mortar. The ego had a big tank on it and it was good. That was until I looked online on youtube..oh my gosh..I ended doing a lot of online purchases, and got an svd and aerotank mega, an aspire tank and juice. I was soooo happy when I got these items..until I started reading up on cloud chasing. I ended up purchasing a kraken and nemesis mix clones on fasttech and would wait while i enjoyed my svd. That is...until i found a really awesome vape store/lounge in the city near me ( I live in Chicago). the service there was freaking phenomenal, and more importantly, or dangerously in terms of shopping, i tried a mech mod for the first time and was cloud chasing!!! I was so hooked that I got a k100 deal with a helios modified dripper. Granted, this was just 1 freakin day after I got the svd. I was sooo hooked on the mech mod yesterday when I purchased it. The guy there was weary on the batteries i wasusing..the panasonic 18650 and suggested the batteries he sold just for mech mods. He told me a story of a battery exploding. Well, I was home that night vaping away and all of sudden, the button got really really hot when i pressed it along and soon the mod itself. I was so freaked out, that I unscrwed the bottom cap and then screwed it back on again...no more problems. Well this morning, i was letting my dad try it and once again...it got really really hot when he pressed the button, and this time i hadn't vaped too much yet. I was worried so i unscrewed the bottom cap and found that the white plastic piece inside the cap had melted a little along with the bottom part of the battery. I was soooo bummed out. I looked online and found that there were problems with the button and the utube showed how to address it. But i didn't want to tinkeer with it.

Luckily, the vape store was opened today and the guy replaced the bottom cap. But he was puzzled why it happened. He said that when I vape too much to the point where until gets warm, I should put it down and let it rest and kind of insinuated that may be the reason why the plastic part and battery melted a little. So here's my question:

Is this true what the guy said? Will the mech mod break down after vaping a lot to the point where it gets too hot? Or was that hot button, a manufacturer's malfunction? I mean when my dad felt that burn, I didn't vape on it that much...

I would appreciate any comments...thanks!
 

AzPlumber

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If the mod or button is getting hot at all stop using it and find the problem. If the battery is getting hot, quickly place the unit somewhere safe and noncombustible until it has cooled and then find the problem.

A hot button is an indication of a poor connection. A hot mod can be a poor connection or radiant heat from the atomizer. A hot battery is a sign the current draw on the battery is too high and in danger of venting.

You really should do much research before using that mechanical mod again.
 

Blaron40

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Apr 18, 2014
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Off the bat... do a integrity check of your battery and its casing. It sounds like you have a short. This happens sometimes when batteries are pushed into tubes and there is a tear of the casing on the battery. Causing your tube to act as a ground.... which in turn is attempting to dissipate heat. I wouldn't worry too much about explosions unless you are sub ohm. However melted parts and dead batteries are a real possibility.

Good luck. Check your mod and make sure everything is on the up and up. If you see a rainbow'ing (I am copyrighting that word) in the battery tube; that's a clear sign of a short.

VAPE ON!!
 

juicynoos

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Sep 27, 2014
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Hi Pat and welcome to the wonders of vaping. My, you are moving pretty fast there bud for just 2 weeks in huh! I spent months doing research before buying my first mechanical and rda. Sounds to me as if you are going to be a hobbyist-which works great to keep you off the analogs. There is tons of great info. here on the forum and some very experienced members who are super helpful.

So, you have some great gear and more on the way right? The svd is a APV and has many safety features built in that you don't have with your K100 mech mod. Be careful and do the research beforehand to arm yourself with knowledge so as not to make mistakes. Also, you need a few good batteries like the Sony vtc4's or 5's or efest which you can use in all your new gear. Get yourself a ohms reader and use it each and every time before connecting the atty to your mod since you don't want to have a short happen and mess up your cool new stuff!!

Your heating problem may be caused by micro arching if your mech has any looseness at any point, shake it and if it rattles you should make adjustments to the contact pins to get the slack out.

I hope this helps somehow but as I say, there are many more experienced folks here on ECF than myself which is why I joined in the 1st place! BTW, did you get the nautilus with the new BVC coils? if not, grab some, they will work awesomely with your new gear.

Best of luck to you, Dave:D

PS Before your Kraken clone eventually arrives from Hong Pong check out some threads on genesis wicking and coils. I had a lot of help with this: New to Genesis Building, advice please!
by juicynoos
 
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trixiesdad

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Oct 3, 2014
19
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Chicago
im not sure about the ohm reading, since the dealer at the store built it for me..but it was 25 gage wire, which he folded in half and wrapped 5x, dual coil, the battery..which he strongly suggested bc he didn't know too much about the panasonic ncr18650b,was the rohs vmaped 40 amp vapor cell 18650 3.7v 2000 mah which the guy said is used for mech mods...the plastic part on top of the spring on the bottom cap was melted a little and wrapper from that vamped battery was a little melted.
 

trixiesdad

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Oct 3, 2014
19
7
Chicago
azplumber, i did some research on the hot button, and it was found that the inner spring of the button on some of them is too pushed in and the remedy is to take it out and pull it a little to make it more springier..the guy at the store today, replaced the cap and actually took it apart and made sure the spring had it's full spring strength..funny thing is that when that hot button event occurred that last time, i immediately took out the cap and the battery, and the battery wasn't hot..
 

AzPlumber

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azplumber, i did some research on the hot button, and it was found that the inner spring of the button on some of them is too pushed in and the remedy is to take it out and pull it a little to make it more springier..the guy at the store today, replaced the cap and actually took it apart and made sure the spring had it's full spring strength..funny thing is that when that hot button event occurred that last time, i immediately took out the cap and the battery, and the battery wasn't hot..

Yep, when just the button is getting hot that indicates a poor connection that is typically found within the button assembly. A poor connection inhibits the flow of electrons and that restriction is released as heat. Please spend some time in the appropriate sections of this forum and learn how to safely use a mechanical mod with a rebuild-able atomizer. I don't mean to sound harsh but your vaping experience will be much more enjoyable after you have the proper knowledge.
 

Topwater Elvis

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I'd stop using it until you can confirm the resistance of the coil you're using.
It would be a good idea to thoroughly clean all threading.
Hot is a warning sign that something ain't right, hot enough to melt the battery wrap a little is dangerous.
I wouldn't trust a vamped battery as much as I would a rattlesnake.

Owning and using a dvom/ ohm meter isn't optional when useing a mechanical & RBA.
Without knowing the resistance you have no idea if you are over stressing the battery.
 

dice57

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Well, it sounds like you are building way to lo and not using the appropriate batts, and since you don't even know what ohms the coil is, you should not even be using a mech, plain and simple.

Thinking the specs on the Vamps dare highly over rated and are the burst amps and not continuous amp rating. Likely they are 20 amp continuous, 35 amp pulse and 40 burst, most likely re-wrapped Lg's.
 

Blaron40

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Just a follow up... im going to take a chance and confirm your battery tube is sharing the ground of that battery and you running a great chance of being injured. The device you are holding is like a curling iron with a faulty switch that would become unmanageable if that switch fails in the on position. It will literally be like trying to pick up a red hot curling iron.

Be safe and best of luck. Let me put it this way. That device should never become a worriesome level of hot.

VAPE ON!! (well you don't vape on at least not on that thing)
 

dice57

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^^^^:lol:^^^ that made me snicker and snort, :lol: just saying:D

edit: A properly maintained and built apv, should be able fire continuously with no ill effects, impoperfly built, and with little or no knowledge, well then, one has Potentially a Pipe Bomb!!!

Knowledge is the difference between a safe Fantastic Vape, and a Dead man's hand.
 
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eyerhere

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Oct 7, 2013
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Sounds to me like the build is a dual parrallel in the neighborhood of 0.2 ohms. If the Bm built this for a new vaper I would not trust his judgment. If you bought the mod fom him take the whole thing back put it on the counter and ask him to fix it. If he cant then get your money back and run run run. A BM must earn the right to be your suplier. So far, strike 1.
 

samcm010

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Top left of screen "what's new" button scroll down to My Posts and you will see your posts with anything with a reply in bold. Also I am glad he fixed it but I would still sincerely suggest getting and Ohm reader or Multi meter and checking the resistance on all your coils before you vape them. I am not sure the fault or what the problem was but a store that sends a new vaper home with a very low resistance coil would not be one I would put all my trust into. (not saying they did just that they might have)
 
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