dice..im glad to hear what you had to say about continuous usage a properly built device..im still going to do a lot more catching up on the mod, but guy did remind me a few times, that if the mod gets warm from a lot of continuous vaping, i should put it down for a little, so do mech mods get warm or not? or is it just the k100? I know the atty outer shell gets warm, but that makes sense since that's where the coils are.
can vaping too much on a mec mod damage it? and hot button
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sam..i b4 i went the brick and mortar, I ordered on fasttech a kraken clone and ohm reader...but from what i heard, it may be awhile till i get them..and thanks for the info on reading new replies..
No properly built mech mod should get warm (the mod) when using a battery within its limits. I have 9 Mech mods and none of them have ever gotten even slightly warm. You are correct though the atty may get warm especially if the coil is close to the outer shell
I am glad you got an Ohm Reader!! that is a great start it will really help you match your batteries
boundaries with your builds. I am also glad you reached out for answers and are willing to listen. a+
There in lies your problem. Having worked at a vapor shop myself, doing builds/rebuilds for a new mech vaper, 0.5ohm build is the lowest, preferably 0.8 to 1.0 ohm coil. Making assumptions based on the build you described, here are the physics going on based on that data using ohms law. 25 awg wire, on a 3mm internal diameter wrap of 5 top/4 bottom, dual parallel build coil (technically a quad coil), guestimated resistance is about 0.14ohms. 0.14 Ohms at 4.2volt full charge on a Vamped 40amp battery which has a 40 amp burst, 30 amp continuous drain limits, you are at that 30amp continous limit, doing 126 watts of output. Here in lies a problem, person behind the counter lacking a bit of knowledge about the product they sell, as the Kamry K100 and K101, though great starter mech mods and rugged as heck like a Mack Work Truck, do have their down flaws, one being they can not handle a build lower than 0.5 to 0.6ohms, thus why the bottom battery contact plastic insulator was beginning to melt down. Stated above also was a valid point, check the thin pvc coating of the battery, any nicks or scratches down to the metal, check the inside of the mod for any sharp burs that could have caused this damage upon installation of the battery.
There are probably other variables going on I can not speculate upon by not seeing the mod in hand, but this issue is frightening to me at the cavalier approach of this vendor behind the counter or the staff he has hired if of the younger generation. Sub-Ohm cloud chasing by its very nature namely pushing a battery to its amp push limits regularly and constantly. Take the mod and atty back to the store to have it rebuilt, going to be going up in resistance to 0.5ohms, tell him these specs (28 gage, 3mm or 1/8inch, dual coil (not parralel), 5/4 wrap), the build he had made for you is also on almost any mech going to make the switch (button) get super hot quickly being so dang low. Don't get me wrong, but where I live, the younger crowd in the sub-ohm culture that work at vapor shops do not take into consideration a customer's true knowledge by asking loaded questions such as do you know or understand "Ohm's Law", what air flow you looking at, how hot you looking to go, etc, and assume a new sub-ohmer can handle anything that happens doing their preferred build they run daily.
imf..thanks for the suggestion, im going to take it back and talk about the rebuild and find out what the ohms on the build is..
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K, here's the thing, depends on why it is getting warm. I have builds 0.4-0.14 ohm's, also some around 0.7, but can drive them up to 100 watt's or 8,5 volts, which ever comes first. Chain vaping some tanks, the tank itself will become extremely warm, which in turn will heat the Mech tube, which in turn will warm the switch up too, and also the Batt. As efficient as mechs, specially copper tube, conduct electrons, they are also great heat sinks.
Excessive heat issues inside a build can be from poorly trapped coil leads, as well as inadequate air and/or wicking issues.
Heating of switch due to pulling to many amps or bad/short connection, are different issues. Shorts can occur from an issue with the switch housing, spring, rice pin, and also the contact pin. Sometimes if the firing pin is off kilter and not making full contact, can cause heating issues, since am channeling high amps through a smaller conduit.
Heating of switch because one's build is to low and pulling to many amp's, is a knowledge & gear issue, and approaches venting and, well learning experiences, the zest of life, or something like that
Knowing my ohm's of build will determine which batt I select to fire, and often which format. Have a selection of 18650 + 26650 mechs to choose from, and a couple high amp regulated mods too. Vape is all about balance to me. Balance of skills, gear, wick, wire, and juice. Then learning to optimize what one has before further expansion
recommended threads would be, Micro coil, Just Hemp, Rayon, and the Micro coil Video thread, should get ya where ya need to be. Least that's where I learned about all thing Vape.
In any case, you did right by unscrewing the connection and trying to find answers. Vape is progressive, the more one learns, the better their vape becomes. Reg's are science, Mechs are more of an art form. or something like that
Vape long and Prosper.!!!!
dice thanks so much...you balance a lot of the comments...I thought about what you said, and the day where the button got hot, I was chain vaping, but I think it was a short problem too because the tube wasn't even close to as hot as the button. Once I brought it back and the guy replaced the cap and actually took the new cap apart and pulled the bottom spring, I havn't had a problem since. Now, I"m getting some warmth at the top of the tube, right under the atty, but that's because of the residual heat from the atty. I also dont chain vape any more, because I get a little too buzzed and the experience was so pleasant last night, just as it was when i got home from work today.
I use my svd during the day because the cloud chasing would not be appropriate where I work, and I usually vape with a menthol tobacco during the day, and drip the sweet stuff at home.
Be said that, I'm still going to read up more and ask alot more..as well as get the ohm reading on my helios. Thanks again dice, because I almost felt like I had to give up the mech mods with all of the comments.
I use my svd during the day because the cloud chasing would not be appropriate where I work, and I usually vape with a menthol tobacco during the day, and drip the sweet stuff at home.
Be said that, I'm still going to read up more and ask alot more..as well as get the ohm reading on my helios. Thanks again dice, because I almost felt like I had to give up the mech mods with all of the comments.
Always a pleasure to help out trix, I just had a batt that had been overstressed, so I marked it and been keeping an eye on it, last night, put it in a mech with a 0.7 build, fired it up, and the button was immediately hot, yeah, unscrewed it, pulled batt, it was quite warm too.
Threw that batt out, no longer any good. It was an obvious, demanding to many amps from the batt. Since it had been extremely over stressed the chemistry inside had changed enough to make not up to specs.
In vape everything affects everything, often the same symptoms can be caused by multiple issues, the more on knows, the better ones diagnostic skills become, and the better the vape gets.
If you are getting to much nic, and not being able to vape as much as you would like to, time to lower the nic level. I started at 24 mg nic, when using an ego and pt. Went to a regulated and rba, had to drop down to 18 mg nic. Once my builds improved and me watts vaped at went up, had to drop it down to 12 mg nic. I still get the same nic delivery now as when was vaping at 24 mg, just better gear and skills, yields better vape and higher nic delivery, so always having to balance things out, as vape moves on, or something like that.
Vape long and Prosper.!!!
Threw that batt out, no longer any good. It was an obvious, demanding to many amps from the batt. Since it had been extremely over stressed the chemistry inside had changed enough to make not up to specs.
In vape everything affects everything, often the same symptoms can be caused by multiple issues, the more on knows, the better ones diagnostic skills become, and the better the vape gets.
If you are getting to much nic, and not being able to vape as much as you would like to, time to lower the nic level. I started at 24 mg nic, when using an ego and pt. Went to a regulated and rba, had to drop down to 18 mg nic. Once my builds improved and me watts vaped at went up, had to drop it down to 12 mg nic. I still get the same nic delivery now as when was vaping at 24 mg, just better gear and skills, yields better vape and higher nic delivery, so always having to balance things out, as vape moves on, or something like that.
Vape long and Prosper.!!!
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