CE2 R4...WTF am I tasting?!?

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Does the plasticy smell go away after a few refills?

Does it happen with all flavors? I've noticed that some thick flavors (dark colored juice) perform quite bad with these CE2's resulting in a harsh taste. I'm guessing the wick doesn't work very well with thick flavors.

I have noticed that too, I think it is the wicking since I can drip thick juice on the coil and get good flavor, but not fill em up and get the same results. I was considering at PTB mod, o r just going LR atty
 

ScottinSoCal

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I got a batch of the 2.5 ohm CE2 XL cartos that didn't perform well, and had a bad taste to them. I planned to get a tank mod (which came in a couple of days ago) and save these for cutting down to get new guts for the tank. Last night I cut open 5 of them, and 4 had a light film of machining oil on the inside of the metal sleeve - not much, just enough to leave dark marks on the silicone seals when I pushed them through the sleeve. I'm going to guess a batch of them didn't make it through the cleaning cycle they were supposed to get before assembly.

These will all be cleaned before they get used in the tank, and I'm kind of rethinking my attachment to the XL CE2 cartos for regular use. I'm thinking I'll use them for cut-down for the tank mods, unless I remove all the rings and run them through a cleaning cycle in the ultrasonic cleaner first. I don't really like the idea of smoking machine oil.
 

MilkyG

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I got a batch of the 2.5 ohm CE2 XL cartos that didn't perform well, and had a bad taste to them. I planned to get a tank mod (which came in a couple of days ago) and save these for cutting down to get new guts for the tank. Last night I cut open 5 of them, and 4 had a light film of machining oil on the inside of the metal sleeve - not much, just enough to leave dark marks on the silicone seals when I pushed them through the sleeve. I'm going to guess a batch of them didn't make it through the cleaning cycle they were supposed to get before assembly.

These will all be cleaned before they get used in the tank, and I'm kind of rethinking my attachment to the XL CE2 cartos for regular use. I'm thinking I'll use them for cut-down for the tank mods, unless I remove all the rings and run them through a cleaning cycle in the ultrasonic cleaner first. I don't really like the idea of smoking machine oil.

If you're cutting them for the tank mod, just buy clearomizers instead. No "primer" (or lubricant, as it appears to be) and the soft plastic is easier to cut / pull off. I still like these for good flavor and convenience but I hate getting juice in my mouth. I've been using the eGo-T system pretty much exclusively lately.
 

floridamale

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If you're cutting them for the tank mod, just buy clearomizers instead. No "primer" (or lubricant, as it appears to be) and the soft plastic is easier to cut / pull off. I still like these for good flavor and convenience but I hate getting juice in my mouth. I've been using the eGo-T system pretty much exclusively lately.

According to information posted on the COV thread clearomizers won't work in a MAP Tank. I will add the ones I have here won't work as I have tried fitting them. The only coils that will work in a MAP are the standard E2 XL tubes that need to be cut.
 
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MilkyG

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According to information posted on the COV thread clearomizers won't work in a MAP Tank. I will add the ones I have here won't work as I have tried fitting them. The only coils that will work in a MAP are the standard E2 XL tubes that need to be cut.

Hmmm...the coils and wicking are the same. I would think maybe the rigidity (or lack thereof) of the plastic tubing would be the main reason not to use the clearomizers for the MAP mod. They are pretty fragile. Nevertheless, in regard to this topic, the clearomizers don't have the nasty initial taste of the earlier metal CE2s. The syringe mod is another option to get to the guts for a good cleaning prior to first use. A PGA soak, rinse and repeat also gets rid of (at least most) the lubricant/primer/oil. The eGo-T is my top option followed by the syringe mod of CE2s...mainly because you can reclean them and pull the wick away from the coil to a new, unburned spot. Otherwise CE2s just don't have the longevity of attys...and they're not supposed to. Is the MAP mod easily cleanable as well? I've read a little on them but haven't tried any.
 

floridamale

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Hmmm...the coils and wicking are the same. I would think maybe the rigidity (or lack thereof) of the plastic tubing would be the main reason not to use the clearomizers for the MAP mod. They are pretty fragile. Nevertheless, in regard to this topic, the clearomizers don't have the nasty initial taste of the earlier metal CE2s. The syringe mod is another option to get to the guts for a good cleaning prior to first use. A PGA soak, rinse and repeat also gets rid of (at least most) the lubricant/primer/oil. The eGo-T is my top option followed by the syringe mod of CE2s...mainly because you can reclean them and pull the wick away from the coil to a new, unburned spot. Otherwise CE2s just don't have the longevity of attys...and they're not supposed to. Is the MAP mod easily cleanable as well? I've read a little on them but haven't tried any.

The fitting issue comes from the fact that the base of the clearomizers is a different design and size then that of the E2 tubes.
It has a larger knurled base with a small O ring. The grommets use in a MAP Tank are very hard & ridged and don’t allow for the clears to fit, the clear tubes are larger also then the hole. The clears can be used in a syringe mod but you need to be careful of the O ring it can tear or comeout of place. The MAPS will clean up fine you just remove the grommets and wash them out I do this when the coils become gunked up or when changing the ohms of the coils I use.
 
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Secti0n31

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I'm trying to fix this problem myself. 2 of the 5 cartos taste like smoldering plastic, the other 3 taste fantastic. I broke one trying to fix it, so I'll use that as my technobiology lab experiment and dissect it, The other I'm cigar-puffing my way through a couple of refills to see if that works. I don't have any PGA, and removing the rubber refill insert didn't help so that leads me to believe that the ONLY thing causing this problem is the wick itself.

The only thing that's helped so far was direct dripping, which lasted much longer than say, 1 drop on an atty, but after 5 puffs or so I was right back to molten plastic taste. I have a box of 3ohm clearo XL's and they are all perfect, best taste I've ever had. 2 of the 2.4-2.6ohm regular size clearo's are the only culprits,
 

Secti0n31

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That was fast, Fixed it. Its the silly little piece of heatshrink just below the atty that was mentioned earlier. I cleaned it(hot water faucet, just once), dry burned it, and then sliced the heatshrink off, I'd assume one of those 3 did it, but just for posterity I'm gonna slice that off of ALL of my clearo's just because I can.
 

Secti0n31

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I don't think it matters what your voltage is, but there are two reasons your carto could be doing this. A) My problem, Theres a piece of heatshrink that goes from halfway up the ceramic cup to about 3/16" down the metal airflow tube. This is the ONLY heatshrink I'd recommend you cut off. Just take an x-acto knife (or a very very sharp boxcutter/pocketknife) and very delicately slice it off.
B) The rubber fill-cap (the one with the two holes in the side for filling) is too close to the heating element. This happens when you aren't careful when removing said fill-cap and rip it, or the ceramic cup isn't on properly. Either switch it with one that's in better shape, ditch it and use the double soft-cap mod, or take it out and snip the loose parts. Oh, or fix your cup so that it sits properly. So far so good for me, but damn these things are freakin fragile!
 

shanewarne

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Which cartomizer do you suggest for Riva 510 at 3.7v? I would like to have some XML cartos which lasts a while. Shall I go for R4 or CE2? Wondering these would operate at 3 ohms. Is this enough at 3.7V bcos the boge LR cartos are 2 ohms? Been using Boge LR cartos but after 2 refills they take very less about 5 drops and liquid starts to leak consistently from then.
 

Secti0n31

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Shane, they DO make 3ohm Ce2's in both clear and not clear, I used them on the ego and they're pretty good, but the clearos are (sorry for the redundancy) FREAKIN FRAGILE! If they stayed together without requiring a snip here, a re-solder there and tons of TLC I'd highly recommend the clearo's, Maybe the metal Ce2's are sturdyer and less likely to have problems.
 
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