Center pin leak

[supertrunker]

I think everyone ought to at least have a bash at replacing that stuff. It's easy with a little planning.

I was vaping my fav Reo in 20 mins again and that's better than a week. As far as i am concerned, Rob is the backup to correct my foul-ups and he has seen my grand on ooh, about 2 occasions so far. I'm sure there'll be more.

T

 

[Filthy-Beast]

I'm with ST, give it a go, Only mistakes I've seen are putting in the new insulators. Do this before the pin and not on the pin. On a new Reo you'd only need to change them if you damaged them

 

[pennysmalls]

All done. The part which I was worried about, getting that nipple off, turned out to be the problem. It was cracked on the backside where I couldn't see and it came right off with just a slight turn with my pliers, in pieces. So that was the source of my leak. The rest of it was smooth sailing and I'm vaping her and my cyclone now. Thanks again Rob for getting my parts out to me so fast and for the extra gaskets AND for posting your video here. That was a huge help.

 

[pennysmalls]

I thought I'd use this thread instead of starting a new one. I bought a repair kit for a Grand I bought in the classifieds a couple weeks ago and installed it today.
While removing the old cup gasket I noticed that there is no squidgy stuff up in there, at least none that can be seen. Unless it looks different than the squidgy stuff in my new Grand. I need to know that this is not something to be concerned about. The Grand is vaping fine.

Also, with this repair kit I'm good to go as far as sub ohm goes correct?

TIA!

 

[redeyedancer]

Your all set its just insulation glad you got your mod running proper

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

I thought I'd use this thread instead of starting a new one. I bought a repair kit for a Grand I bought in the classifieds a couple weeks ago and installed it today.
While removing the old cup gasket I noticed that there is no squidgy stuff up in there, at least none that can be seen. Unless it looks different than the squidgy stuff in my new Grand. I need to know that this is not something to be concerned about. The Grand is vaping fine.

Also, with this repair kit I'm good to go as far as sub ohm goes correct?

TIA!

No need to worry about squidgy stuff missing in the old fittings - just install the new fittings per the guides and instructions (which I believe you have).

If you new kit was the subohm version (gold firing pin/lever and spring) you are good to go for subohming without decaying the fits. Note that if you use flat top batteries, putting deoxit (or noalox) on the pin/lever will reduce or eliminate any arc'ing with the bat that might happen with lower ohm builds. Some peeps put a dab of noalox on the + terminal of the battery just to be sure.

I've had these contacts down to .4 ohms with no problem (or even arc'ing with button top bats). Mind your battery amp ratings for safety, of course.

 

[Rickajho]

Y'all said "squidgy".

 

[pennysmalls]

Thanks Rob and Papa, it sounds like I'm all set then! (we need a happy jig dancing emoticon )

Just realized I forgot to dab on that other squidgy stuff, noalox!

 

[JC Okie]

Thanks Rob and Papa, it sounds like I'm all set then! (we need a happy jig dancing emoticon )

Just realized I forgot to dab on that other squidgy stuff, noalox!

This?

 

[Rickajho]

Thanks Rob and Papa, it sounds like I'm all set then! (we need a happy jig dancing emoticon )

Just realized I forgot to dab on that other squidgy stuff, noalox!

You mean the squoozy stuff?

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

You mean the squoozy stuff?

Clearly. Must have been a typo.

 

[pennysmalls]

You mean the squoozy stuff?

What *was* I thinking? Yes, squoozy stuff.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

No need to worry about squidgy stuff missing in the old fittings - just install the new fittings per the guides and instructions (which I believe you have).

If you new kit was the subohm version (gold firing pin/lever and spring) you are good to go for subohming without decaying the fits. Note that if you use flat top batteries, putting deoxit (or noalox) on the pin/lever will reduce or eliminate any arc'ing with the bat that might happen with lower ohm builds. Some peeps put a dab of noalox on the + terminal of the battery just to be sure.

I've had these contacts down to .4 ohms with no problem (or even arc'ing with button top bats). Mind your battery amp ratings for safety, of course.

As you go below .3 and get close .2 is when some collapsed springs have been reported. There is not a set number because it depends on length of hit. A 1 second hit does not have time to build up heat in the spring like a 10 second lung hit would.

 

[Rickajho]

As you go below .3 and get close .2 is when some collapsed springs have been reported. There is not a set number because it depends on length of hit. A 1 second hit does not have time to build up heat in the spring like a 10 second lung hit would.

.

 

[pennysmalls]

.

Huge belly laugh happening here! A ten second lung hit would render me unconscious!

(Is a lung hit like that really possible?)

 

[Filthy-Beast]

I can do a 7 to 8 second one and I've read post of people who don't like regulated devices because of the cut off after 10 seconds of a hit. I think ST does long hits.

 

[pennysmalls]

Wow, 7-8 seconds is a really long drag. I think I can do 5-6 tops. Perhaps it's a large male thing. Bigger chests = larger lung capacity.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Or too much wild partying at a young age

 

[pennysmalls]

Oh, haha! Yeah I didn't get that much practice in my younger days.

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

Or too much wild partying at a young age

um... yeah... this. In my prime............