Charging your Ego on your computer vs wall socket (Warning)

[firephly]

I was browsing the Captivape website and saw this:
Home | Captivape

Charging your Ego
Only charge your Ego battery with the standard wall outlet to prevent any issues with batteries. We highly advise against using your notebook computer or Xbox360/PS3 to charge them since it could potentially lead to failure of said devices

Since I have been using my laptop to charge all my batteries (ego's & my MVP) and have had 3 ego batteries die on me in a short time, I emailed and asked them to explain better-this was the reply I got:

"The reason we say that is because not all USB ports are created equally. While the USB charger does technically follow USB standards for voltage and amperage draw, not all integrated USB ports follow the specification exactly. They might provide too much, or not enough energy to power the charger and charge the battery. When this happens, things can get really hot and there is a chance it could damage the charger, battery, usb port, or the device you are charging from.

We strive to provide you with the highest quality batteries and chargers, but there is always a small risk with anything containing a lithium-ion battery, and we would much rather you risk a $6 wall charger than a several hundred dollar computer, game console, or television!

Also, just as a reminder, NEVER use a charger that isn't explicitly made for eGo style batteries. Some penstyle/cigalike type chargers will fit, but they do not have the over charge protection circuitry required for an eGo style battery. At best it will ruin the battery, at worse it can cause it to catch fire and explode."


I am gonna use the wall socket from now on! Maybe then I won't risk ruining my laptop either and my batteries might last longer.

PS: I also have a pass-through ego battery that I have been charging via wall socket only and it seems to have died after only 6 weeks!?
I have read that ego type batteries aren't meant to last that long but wow....you'd think they'd last longer than that.

 

[TheJakeBailey]

I bought one of those multi port usb hubs that plugs into the wall. Works like a charm for ego, MVP, and vv/vw3.

 

[firephly]

I bought one of those multi port usb hubs that plugs into the wall. Works like a charm for ego, MVP, and vv/vw3.

That is what I need, can you send me a link please?

 

[Rickajho]

First, when it comes to my computer being a universal power supply for all things: I didn't buy a $799.00 battery charger with a bonus lap top thrown in. If it doesn't need to be connected to a computer to function it doesn't get connected to my computer period. You can buy a 1 amp AC to USB power supply on Amazon for two bucks. If it dies you replace it with another for two bucks. Try replacing the USB ports on your computer for two bucks if something behaves badly.

What devices are you using on these eGo class batteries? Specifically - what resistance. They really are not built to handle devices below 2.0 ohms. Doing so can either fry the protection circuit - rendering the battery dead, or dramatically shorten the overall lifespan of the battery.

 

[firephly]

What devices are you using on these eGo class batteries? Specifically - what resistance. They really are not built to handle devices below 2.0 ohms. Doing so can either fry the protection circuit - rendering the battery dead, or dramatically shorten the overall lifespan of the battery.

Mini Protank alternating between 2.2ohm and 1.8ohm.

 

[TheJakeBailey]

That is what I need, can you send me a link please?

You can get them at any electronics store, or amazon I'm sure. Search for USB hub, and look for one that has an AC adapter.

 

[Rickajho]

Mini Protank alternating between 2.2ohm and 1.8ohm.

That really should be the source of the problem then, unless you happened to notice the connector area and fire button area getting uncomfortably warm when firing the 1.8 ohm coils. Gotta give us more on what's going on with the problematic batteries.

On the passthrough are you getting nothing at all? Fire button doesn't flash when first connected to the power supply?

What is it doing or not doing? Does the fire button blink at all when you press it, connected to the power supply or not?

 

[AttyPops]

Look on the charger. It will state the amp draw.

Most USB ports should handle it just fine. Cell phones...IDK. But real computers are usually OK.
That said, I can't recommend overriding the vendor's directions. I'm just stating that I don't understand why they said that unless there's some really weird less than 500 mA ports out there. The USB 1.0 standard was 500 mA. It has gotten higher since. But who knows about flaky implementations.

How USB charging works, or how to avoid blowing up your smartphone | ExtremeTech

Anyone know of a reason?

I know that this is NOT applicable to USB PT's that are not trickle charging types....AKA "direct PT". That's a different animal. Always use a wall wart (A/C to USB of at least 2.0 amps...2000 mA) for them.

Even for the trickle-charge PT's...Still a good idea to use a wall wart.

 

[SmellYaLaterCigs]

Sigh, been charging an ego on my 360 for about 6 months. It was so convenient too! Guess i'll have to come up with a plan B now.

 

[FearTX]

I am not charging a vaping device on my collection of shiny parts that I call a computer.... They make cheap, easily replaceable chargers for those things.

 

[r77r7r]

Cheap $8 egos aren't meant to last. A good quality passthrough ( Joye, etc) lasts me more than a year. They're $22 or so, but if you want reliability...........

These are SitnGo batteries, meaning they actually have a battery installed and you can unplug and still vape. The "True passthrus" are plug in only to work, and I'd definitely use maybe a Power strip with those things.

 

[SmellYaLaterCigs]

Could someone more knowledgeable than myself explain how serious of threat this really is? It sounds like the explanation the OP received was more of a legal thing to protect the company in case something were to happen (no refund, we told you not to do it).

I have a few $5 ego's from FT that have amazingly lasted me 6 months. In that time I've had no problem charging them on my Xbox/computer. I assume problems are pretty rare (not to say it doesn't happen, but if it happened to even 5% of users this forum would be covered in threads on the topic) and that I would have experienced them by now if my hardware couldn't handle it?

 

[wonner]

Get 2 MVPs and have them charge each other.

It's like the infinite loop of vaping!

 

[glasseye]

I learned the hard way to not use my desktop USB ports to charge my batts. One of them fried and stupid me thought it was the port so I put it in the second one. No more working ports on the tower front. Derp.
I got a Macally USB hub from Best Buy and I'm pretty sure it came with the wall plug but I need the ports for stuff so it's in the last remaining USB port in the back of the tower. I use wall warts for the eGo chargers now.

SmellYaLaterCigs- The charger I used that killed the ports was new. If yours is fine, it may continue to be fine, but don't assume if you need a new one that the new one will be fine too; like I did.

 

[wonner]

...I assume problems are pretty rare...

Perhaps, but a rare house fire is still bad if it's your house.

If you are going to break the rules, know what you are doing.

 

[nobreak1970]

I exclusively charge my ego's on my laptop and have never had issues.

 

[crxess]

Might be better if they said what is really meant.

Don't risk your batteries on sub par PC usb ports!

That said, I have several Hand built, fully customized Dell laptops. I have been charging my Batteries for over a year without issues. I also use a quality Joyetech USB charger.
All my removable batteries charge off the Wall chargers.

 

[Criticalmass]

Could someone more knowledgeable than myself explain how serious of threat this really is? It sounds like the explanation the OP received was more of a legal thing to protect the company in case something were to happen (no refund, we told you not to do it).

I have a few $5 ego's from FT that have amazingly lasted me 6 months. In that time I've had no problem charging them on my Xbox/computer. I assume problems are pretty rare (not to say it doesn't happen, but if it happened to even 5% of users this forum would be covered in threads on the topic) and that I would have experienced them by now if my hardware couldn't handle it?

Meh, the things can blow up if there is a power surge and it doesn't matter if it is plugged into a laptop or a wall outlet. These days everyone should have good surge protectors to plug their stuff into. A good UPS with battery backup can't hurt either. I have several of these that all my expensive electronics are plugged into and it has saved them from frying on several occasions.

As computers age their power supplies degrade and can end up jot pushing the correct amount of power to all the ports. This doesn't happen when plugged directly into a wall outlet. Brown outs can also cause electronics to fry. Batteries and capacitors are both susceptible to explosive venting when this happens :-(

I have seen USB ports do fluctuate. Not all are created equal and they are capable of degrading as they get older.

Sent from Murray the Limited edition Monkey Island™ voodoo talking head.

 

[Kaiser Bob]

I use my satellite receivers to charge my devices. I don't leave them on long past full charge and wouldn't charge off them in a lightning storm of course.

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

 

[ch2468]

Every time I hear a story about a 510/808/Ego battery blowing up on the charger, everybody starts flinging the blame at the device people plug their chargers into. Has anyone though to think about defects in the chargers or batteries themselves? A USB 2.0 port will only output 5V@500mA max.

If there was something wrong with USB ports, people would be constantly blowing up their keyboards, mice, printers, external HDDs, etc etc etc. If anything, plugging your charger into one of those wall/car adapters is more dangerous, because it adds another piece of shoddily-designed voltage adjustment circuitry (be it 120VAC->5VDC, or 12VDC->5VDC).

Buy quality electronics, and you should rarely have this problem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wi-b9k-0KfE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T88ej64aXUM