Chrome end caps

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BuzzKill

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Good Stuff ! this REALLY helps us to understand what exactly is going on .

Like I said I have stuff coming to do some REAL TESTS , this will cycle the batts on a 2 amp load 5 volts at 2.5 ohms or some other combo ( not sure yet I have to run some numbers )
I plan on a 6 sec. ON time and a 24 sec. Off Time so worst case timing then we will put a counter on output and count the ON cycles , from that we can determine the EXACT ON TIME for SURE .

This will allow us to quantify the battery life , I plan on setting this test up so that other MFG ( IF they want to ) can reproduce the tests exactly.
 

moorea

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Well My batteries finally died. Started using them around 11:00am Saturday woke up this morning, took a good vape and the next one there was nothing, then I noticed the LED was out! My husbands batteries are still going, but he does not vape through the night, I tend to fall asleep with buzz in hand!

I'm impressed, got all Saturday, all Sunday and was at least able to hit it once before I got out of bed Monday!
 

markfm

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PI, I absolutely agree. I , for instance, am consistent at 6 ml use, but that is at 8 watts, 1.5 - 1.6a, 3 - 3.4 ohm cartos, 5 - 5.2v range with my particular blend. Another person may hit entirely different run time.

(my times are not to battery drained, I just swap sets at end of the day)

An actual test that is reproducible with other products is, however, interesting to my geek side :)
 

BuzzKill

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Current Test for ECIST standard

#1 Load = 2.0 ohms @ 5.0 volts = 2.5 Amp @ 12.5 watts

#2 Load = 2.0 Ohms @ 4.0 volts = 2.0 amps @ 8 watts

#3 Load = 1.5 ohms @ 3.5 volts = 2.33 amps @ 8.16 watts

#4 Load = 1.5 ohms @ 4.25 volts = 2.83 amps @ 12 watts

Timing = 6 seconds ON , 24 seconds OFF , measure cycles with a counter until batteries are fully discharged from a full charge cycle.

Use cyclic timer


My thoughts are that a 2.0 ohm load should be used for the test as a base line because LR attys etc. are down around 1.5 ohms and regular are up around 3 ohms so this is closer to the mainline of users ( ok 2.25 ohm is closer ! ) also 2.0 amps is closer to what the batteries are designed for . you do NOT want to setup a test that is at the edge of a components failure zone.
 
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BuzzKill

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The one add I might suggest is something up around 5 - 5.2v, 3 - 3.4 ohms. That also gets you in the lower end sweet spot 8W, but is letting the voltage do the work, while still stayng within readily available resistance.

Good point BUT I am thinking just ONE test setup for the baseline , the problem with to many test is that you can not quantify them to each other !
 

BuzzKill

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Okay just had to change out batteries. This time they went about 7 hours or so and about 3 ml or so. They went in to the BP at 4.09 each and came out 3.55 and 0.

I took a pin and ran it around the fire button a good number of times with no help in getting it firing each and every time.

Ok the switch has to be bad or intermitten ( this happens ! ) we will fix it Sashwa
 

Rosco

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Okay just had to change out batteries. This time they went about 7 hours or so and about 3 ml or so. They went in to the BP at 4.09 each and came out 3.55 and 0.

I took a pin and ran it around the fire button a good number of times with no help in getting it firing each and every time.



.....and here I was thinking you could get anything to fire whenever you wanted it to...fire.:blush:
 

markfm

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5 hours after the t1/t2 pair died, I checked them and they were both reporting 3.75v. After about 8 puffs, t1 still 3.75, t2, the bottom battery, measured 3.55.

I still call then dead at 3 ml - they stopped working st that time even if something later kicked back alive. They were intermittent, then unresponsive when checked over about a half hour from the first fail point (before I stopped checking until just now).

Switching to b1& b2. Fresh off the charger they are 4.10 & 4.11v.

Note that t2 and b2 had both come off the charger at 4.17v yesterday, so they are coming off a little lower than before. (i had not recorded the t1/b1 first values, but believe they were in that 4.17 zone).

Zombie batteries :)
 

Ruppy

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Me broke it already ? :(

So What do I need to do - Just send it back to the address on the box with a note?

On mikes site follow the RMA link on the returns page
Print it out and fill it out
Send it in the box with it :) Youll get it back in a couple days. RMA units get priority and go to the front of the line :)
 

Rosco

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Me broke it already ? :(

So What do I need to do - Just send it back to the address on the box with a note?

NO fear....I believe this is a test sashwa - and you passed with flying colors.
Now Mike will return it to you in NEW shape.


I'm proud of ya too...not just anyone would have caught this tricky....trick..test thing.:thumb:
 

BuzzKill

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On mikes site follow the RMA link on the returns page
Print it out and fill it out
Send it in the box with it :) Youll get it back in a couple days. RMA units get priority and go to the front of the line :)

Ruppy has it right , we test each unit 100% but intermittent issues do not always show up .
 
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