Mark them up so you know , sometimes they will not sit right in the charger so pay attention to that as well/.
Chrome end caps
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Mark them up so you know , sometimes they will not sit right in the charger so pay attention to that as well/.
You do indeed have to pay attention to that.
If you insert a battery and the LED doesn't go to red, you have to jiggle it until it does. "Green" isn't always good.
Also we have had several people discover that their attys/carto were going BAD and starting to short out or reduce there resistance / Ohms so !!!
be aware it may not always be the unit !!
be aware it may not always be the unit !!
By dirt I didn't mean the grease,I saw that was applied.Mine had very small chips of metal in the grease and threads that wouldn't allow me to screw the caps on when I changed them.I just cleaned everything up real well then they went on fine.Weird but for some reason when vaping side by side with the BP and my A/V joker with the same atty and juice the BP seems to have more power with both set to 5.5 volts.Thought it might be the attys but both the 306's metered at 3.4 ohms and I even switched them and got the same result,a hotter hit with the BP.Must be the better regulator because the Joker didn't hit like the BP until I turned it up to 6.1 volts.Anyone else experience this?
Good reminder. In my case I did resistance checks, changed cartos every 4 days, am actually still using the last 1 I had on the bp on the infinity, getting expected 6 ml, full day, use.
(i would have noticed if instead of 8 watts I was pushing near the full bp 15
)
BTW, I tossed in some 0PG vananaberry with the return. It's a very sweet blend, keyzy described it as being like vaping a fruit smoothie
(i would have noticed if instead of 8 watts I was pushing near the full bp 15
)BTW, I tossed in some 0PG vananaberry with the return. It's a very sweet blend, keyzy described it as being like vaping a fruit smoothie
I think the J uses a linear regulator like the Original Buzz ?? I am not sure . Unless under load the J is dropping voltage , you would have to test the voltage under load to know for sure.
I will mark them.
As for the cartomizer, I have only been using the one in there for 3 or 4 days. How do you check the resistance of a cartomozer.
Set the meter to lowest ohms scale.
Touch the leads together. If the meter says anything other than 0, write it down. This is the offset.
One lead goes to the carto center conductor, the other to the outer thread part of it. Subtract any offset from the prior step, this is the resistance of the carto.
Touch the leads together. If the meter says anything other than 0, write it down. This is the offset.
One lead goes to the carto center conductor, the other to the outer thread part of it. Subtract any offset from the prior step, this is the resistance of the carto.
Thanks... It worked. The LR carto I've been using for 3 days is at 2ohms and the regular I've been using for a few hours is at is at 2.9ohms!
the Buzz Pro does hit hard... ( a great thing)... i'm guessing because it's got 2 stacked batts, more total voltage...? If so, that was an ingenious thing to design ... (I wondered why it didnt have a 18650)
Yep. I used to run an Omega at 6v and the BP hits hotter at a lower voltage. I can run the BP at 5v and get as warm a hit as my Omega at 6v. I'm running a 3.5 ohm carto.
I've seen those kind of counter-intuitive, David-slays-Goliath results myself.
Both of my Buzzes @ 5.2V hit me with perfection, while my Silver Bullet is wimpy, even with freshly-charged batteries delivering upwards of 7 volts.
I have a wooden, 3.7V mod that outperforms the SB.
There's some other factor at work here; I just can't figure out what it is.
There are actually a few different things at work.
A 3.7V Mod will deliver 4.2V with a fresh set of batteries. There is no regulation circuit, so although the voltage drops off gradually as you use it there is 100% efficiency, as far as the circuit is concerned.
Now, as far as voltage regulator circuits are concerned there are many different types of circuits. To keep things simple I will just mention a couple of things.
There are "buck"-drops input voltage to desired voltage, "boost"-raises input voltage to desired voltage and "buck boost" - can do both. The most efficient of the three is the "buck" circuit. Which is what Notcigs uses. In fact, without getting into other details, suffice it to say Notcigs produces very efficient Variable Voltage PVs.
Efficiency doesn't just effect battery life, although that is a big thing, as we all know.
Inefficient circuits will draw more current than a more efficient circuit to attempt to maintain the same voltage. When the batteries struggle to keep up with the necessary current delivery the Voltage can "sag", as in it drops to lower than what it should be. I suspect this is the main reason you are seeing performance difference in VVPV's.
There are actually a few different things at work.
A 3.7V Mod will deliver 4.2V with a fresh set of batteries. There is no regulation circuit, so although the voltage drops off gradually as you use it there is 100% efficiency, as far as the circuit is concerned.
Now, as far as voltage regulator circuits are concerned there are many different types of circuits. To keep things simple I will just mention a couple of things.
There are "buck"-drops input voltage to desired voltage, "boost"-raises input voltage to desired voltage and "buck boost" - can do both. The most efficient of the three is the "buck" circuit. Which is what Notcigs uses. In fact, without getting into other details, suffice it to say Notcigs produces very efficient Variable Voltage PVs.
Efficiency doesn't just effect battery life, although that is a big thing, as we all know.
Good explanation G$ , we did chose a BUCK type regulator for that exact reason ( the best efficiency ) I know some of the Boost types have battery life issues and have battery current issues ( need to use AW types no protection ) .
We also have the ability to use LR attys/cartos up to 14 watts. Not many others can says that.
That, as an explanation, only works only so far, G$
I've tried my Phidias with a freshly-charged 18650 against my SB with full-to-the-brim RCR123s metering at the better part of 8VDC.
The Phid shines. The SB wimps out. I, with no credible explanation, ponder the imponderables, a Buzz at my lips set to 5.2VDC.
Yeah PI, I guess my explanation was not very clear.
Performance is a function of the circuits need to pull large amounts of current v. the ability of the batteries to deliver said current.
An 18650 can deliver a huge amount of current for a relatively long amount of time when compared to 16340's.
What makes the Notcig's PVs special is the high efficiency of the circuit design and components allow amazing performance out of common 16340's for the load and abuse we subject them to.
I feel really uncomfortable with the red light on all the time. It goes off after a small twist but comes on with the slightest bump. I hear it is no big deal but it makes me slightly uneasy with a red light glowing in the background all the time.
RC
RC
It's like a little demon eye winking at you whenever you peek in there isn't it RC?
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